GIFT  OF 
A.V.Stubenrauch 


TEE 


AMERICAN 


FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION 


REVISED  AND  ENLARGED. 


"  Who  lore*  a  garden,  loves  a  green-house  too, 
Unconscious  of  a  less  propitious  clime, 
There  blooms  exotic  beauty,  warm  and  snug, 
While  the  winds  whistle,  and  the  snows  descend." 


BY   EDWARD    SAVERS, 

LANDSCAPE  AND  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENER,  AUTHOR  OF  THE 
AMERICAN  FRUIT  GARDEN  COMPANION,  &C. 


THIRD  EDITION. 


CINCINNATI: 

J.  A.  JAMES,  WALNUT,  BETWEEN  4TH  &  STH  STREETS; 
PHILADELPHIA  I J.     W.     MOORE  J 

NEW  YORK: — j.  s.  REDFIELD. 
1846. 


Entered,  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1846, 

BY  EDWARD  SAYERS, 
in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Ohio. 


STEREOTYPED  BY  J.  A.  JAMES,  CINCINNATI. 


TO  THE  PRESIDENT  AND  MEMBERS 

OF  THE 

CINCINNATI  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY, 

THIS    MANUAL 

IS   RESPECTFULLY   DEDICATED, 

BY  THEIR  VERY  OBLIGED  FRIEND, 

THE  AUTHOR. 


466903 


INTRODUCTION. 


'  THE  first  and  second  editions  of  the  "Flower  Garden  Compa- 
nion" having  received  a  liberal  patronage,  will  be  a  sufficient 
apology  for  the  appearance  of  the  present  edition,  in  an  enlarged 
form,  although  not  materially  different  in  its  arrangement.  The 
present  object,  as  heretofore,  of  the  "  Flower  Garden  Companion," 
is  to  aid  those  persons  who  are  desirous  of  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  culture  of  flowers.  In  its  compilation,  the  aim  has  been 
to  give,  within  the  compass  of  a  convenient  manual  for  reference, 
as  much  useful  matter  as  possible  relative  to  the  subject.  To 
this  end,  each  topic  has  been  separately  treated,  and  in  as  concise 
a  manner  as  could  be  done  with  propriety ;  and,  indeed,  in  some 
cases,  with  a  degree  of  brevity  that  on  the  first  reading,  to  the 
young  practitioner  may  produce  a  feeling  of  disappointment,  at 
the  apparent  deficiency  of  information ;  but  on  a  careful  reading 
of  the  different  articles,  it  will  be  found  that  everything  useful 
(in  so  small  a  treatise}  has  been  spoken  of,  and  that,  in  many 
instances,  one  article  acts  as  a  key  to  another. 

In  the  outset,  directions  are  given  for  laying  out  flower  gardens. 
In  treating  on  this  subject,  I  have  confined  myself  to  the  general 
outline,  without  entering  into  minute  details,  which  depend  very 
much  upon  location  and  circumstances,  as  well  as  upon  the  taste 
and  means  of  the  proprietor. 

To  the  culture  of  plants  and  shrubs,  descriptive  lists  have  been 
appended,  giving  the  color,  height,  and  time  of  flowering,  of  such 
varieties  as  have  been  found  to  be  best  adapted  to  the  American 
flower  garden.  It  must  be  here  recollected,  that  location  and  the 
different  treatment  plants  receive,  will  have  great  influence  on  the 
color,  height,  and  time  of  flowering,  which  I  have  set  down  on  a 
medium  scale.  In  this  place,  it  may  be  proper  to  remark,  that  the 
design  of  the  present  manual  is  to  assist  the  farmer,  the  mechanic, 
and  the  amateur,  in  the  general  culture  of  flowers,  and  especially 
in  the  culture  of  native  American  plants,  which  are  not  only  the 

V  A2 


Yl  INTRODUCTION. 

most  beautiful,  but  also  the  most  appropriate  to  this  climate,  and 
are  of  easy  cultivation;  combining  such  methods  of  practice  from 
foreign  horticulture  as  are  adapted  to  this  climate. 

The  management  and  culture  of  green-house  plants,  and  plants 
in  rooms,  being  so  intimately  connected  with  the  flower  garden,  I 
have  devoted  a  considerable  space  to  that  subject,  Directions  are 
given  for  the  treatment  of  the  different  families  of  green-house 
plants,  as  the  Camellia,  Erica,  Geranium,  &c.,  with  descriptive 
lists  of  the  most  approved  varieties  subjoined. 

The  shrubbery,  and  the  planting  of  ornamental  plantations, 
have  also  been  treated  on,  although  not  so  extensively  as  the 
subject  might  demand  in  a  more  enlarged  work  on  ornamental 
plantations,  which  are  now  beginning  to  be  properly  appreciated 
in  most  parts  of  the  Union.  To  those  who  are  improving  estates 
in  the  west,  I  recommend  a  work  lately  published  by  me,  entitled 
"A  Manual  on  the  Cultivation  of  Live  Fences  and  Ornamental 
Plantations,"  which  will  be  found  to  be  a  good  accompaniment 
to  the  "  Companion." 

With  these  remarks,  I  must  take  leave  of  the  subject,  referring 
the  reader  to  the  Table  of  Contents  for  the  different  matters  treated 
on, — at  the  same  time  tendering  my  sincere  thanks  to  several 
practical  gardeners  and  amateurs  for  their  kind  assistance  in 
preparing  the  list  of  plants,  and  for  several  useful  hints  for  this 
treatise,  hoping  it  may  have  a  tendency  to  throw  some  light  on 
the  culture  of  the  flower  garden;  and  if  it  have  any  influence  on 
the  impulse  already  manifest  in  the  culture  of  flowers,  my  earnest 
desire  will  be  fully  answered. 

E.  S. 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS. 


PART   I. 

AKHA2T6EMEXT  OF  THE    FLOWER  GARDEN  AXD    PROPAGATION    OP  PLANTS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

On  Laying  out  the  Flower  Garden.                     Page. 
AST.  1.  General  Remarks  .    .    . 13 

2.  Laying  out  the  Flower  Garden  and  Planting 14 

3.  Soil  and  Materials 16 

4.  General  Planting  of  Shrubs  and  Flowers  ........  17 

5.  Location  or  Position  of  Plants 18 

G.  Plan  and  Management  of  Trellises  and  Arbors 18 

7.  Formation  of  and  Planting  the  Rockery 19 

8.  Ornamental  Waters  and  Bridges 20 

9.  On  Making  Flower  Gardens 21 

CHAPTER  IL 

On  the  Nutriment  of  Plants. 

ABT.  1.  Preliminary  Remarks 22 

2.  Food  of  Plants 23 

3.  Light 25 

4.  Heat 26 

5.  Observations  on  the  Roots  of  Plants 27 

6.  Observations  on  the  Bud 28 

7.  Observations  on  the  Leaf 29 

CHAPTER  IE. 

On  the  Propagation  of  Plants. 
ART.  1.  General  Observations 30 

2.  Propagation  by  Seed 31 

3.  Propagation  by  Roots 33 

4.  Propagation  by  Running  Vines  and  Creepers 36 

5.  Propagation  by  Cuttings 36 

6.  Propagation  by  Layers 36 

7.  Increase  by   Inoculation 38 

vii 


Vi  TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 

PART    II. 

MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    FLOWER    GARDEN CULTURE   OF   PLA 

DESCRIPTIVE    LIST. 


CHAPTER  I. 

On  the  Culture  of  Annuals  and  Biennials.               Page. 
ART.  1.  Annual  Flowers 42 

2.  Growing  Annuals  in  Hot-beds,  for  Planting  out  Early  ...  43 

3.  Sowing  the  Seed  in  the  Natural  Ground 44 

4.  Descriptive  List  of  Annual  Flowers 45 

5.  Biennial  Flowers 47 

CHAPTER  H. 

On  the  Culture  of  Perennials. 

ART.  1.  Perennial  Herbaceous  Plants 50 

2.  Descriptive  List  of  Herbaceous  Perennial  Flowering  Plants  .  51 

3.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Phlox 55 

4.  Descriptive  List  of  Phlox 57 

5.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Pjeony 57 

Descriptive  List  of  Paeonias 60 

CHAPTER  HI. 

On  the  Culture  of  Shrubs  and  Vines. 
ART.  1.  Shrubs 61 

2.  Descriptive  List  of  Dwarf  Hardy  Shrubs 63 

3.  Descriptive  List  of  Tall  Shrubs  and  Dwarf  Ornamental  Trees  65 

4.  Hardy  Running  Vines,  for  covering  Arbors,  &c 66 

5.  Descriptive  List  of  Hardy  Vines .  66 

6.  On  the  Culture  of  Evergreen  Shrubs 67 

Descriptive  List  of  Evergreen  Shrubs 69 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Culture  of  Florist  Flowers. 

ART.  1.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Dahlia 69 

2.  Descriptive  List  of  Double  Dahlias 74 

3.  Hardy  Bulbous  Rooted  Plants 76 

4.  The  Carnation  and  Picotee 79 

5.  The  Pink 81 

6.  The  Polyanthus  and  Auricula 83 

7.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Pansy  or  Heartsease 86 

8.  The  Chrysanthemum 87 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS.  IX 

CHAPTER  V. 

On  the  Monthly  Calendar.                           page. 
ART.  1.  Object  of  the  Monthly  Calendar 89 

2.  January 90 

3.  February 90 

4.  March 91 

5.  April 92 

6.  May .92 

7.  June r  93 

8.  July 94 

9.  August 96 

10.  September 96 

11.  October 98 

12.  November 99 

13.  December 100 

CHAPTER  VL 

On  the  Variations  and  Motions  of  Plants. 
ART.  1.  Variations  of  Plants 100 

2.  Color  of  Plants  and  Flowers ; 101 

3.  Double  Flowers 102 

4.  Motion  of  Plants 104 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Spring  and  Fall  Management. 

ART.  1.  Spring  Management,  Pruning,  &c 106 

2.  Fall  Management,  and  Covering  Plants 108 

CHAPTER  Vm. 
On  the  Summer  Management  of  Pot  Plants  and  Garden  Frames. 

ART.  1.  Of  Pot  Plants 110 

2.  Management  of  Garden  Frames 112 

CHAPTER  IX. 
The    Shrubbery 113 

CHAPTER  X. 

City  and  Native  American  Flower  Garden. 

ART.  1.  The  City  Flower  Garden 116 

2.  The  Native  American  Flower  Garden 119 


X  TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XL  Page. 

On  Plunging  Green-house  Plants  in  Flower  Borders  .    .    .  122 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Insects  .  • 124 

<*2 
CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Rose. 
ART.  1.  General  Remarks 128 

2.  Propagation 129 

3.  Roses  that  Bloom  in  June — Various  Roses 132 

4.  Descriptive  List  of  Roses  that  Bloom  in  June 135 

5.  Roses  that  Bloom  the  whole  Season .137 

6.  Descriptive  List  of  Roses  that  Bloom  the  whole  Season  .    .  140 

PART    III. 

CONSTRUCTION    AND    MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    GREEK-HOUSE. 

CHAPTER  L 

On  the  Construction  of  the  Green-house. 
ART.  1.  Location  and  Plan 143 

2.  Mode  of  Heating 144 

3.  Walks  and  Stages 145 

4.  Repairing  and  Cleansing 146 

CHAPTER  H. 

On  the  Management  of  Green-house  Plants. 
ART.  1.  Taking  the  Plants  into  Winter  Quarters  and  Potting  ...  148 

2.  Arranging  the  Plants  in  the  House 148 

3.  Watering  the  Plants 149 

4.  Temperature  of  the  House 150 

5.  Descriptive  List  of  Green-house  Plants 151 

6.  Tender  Bulbous  Rooted  Plants 155 

CHAPTER  HI. 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Camellia  Japonica. 

ART.  1.  Remarks 158 

Propagation  of  the  Camellia 159 

Management  in  the  Green-house 159 

Repotting  the  Plants ICO 

Descriptive  List  of  Camellias 161 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAPTER  IV.                                    Page. 
On  the  Culture  of  the  Geranium,  China  Rose,  and  Verbena. 
AHT.  1.  The  Geranium,  or  Pelargonium 163 

2.  The  China  Rose 166 

3.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Verbena 167 

CHAPTER  V, 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Erica,  Azalea,  and  Rhododendron. 
ART.  1.  The  Erica 170 

2.  Culture  and  Propagation 171 

3.  Descriptive  List  of  Ericas 172 

4.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Azalea 173 

5.  On  the  Culture  of  the  Rhododendron 175 

CHAPTER  VI. 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Cactus  and  Succulent  Plants. 

AKT.  1.  The  Cactus  . s   ...  176 

Grafting  the  Cactus 17& 

Descriptive  List  of  the  Cactus 181 

2.  Culture  of  the  Aloe,  and  various  Succulents 182 

CHAPTER  VII. 

On  Potting  and  Repotting  Plants. 
ART.  1.  Potting  Green-house  Plants k    .    .  183 

2.  Potting  of  Plants  taken  from  the  Ground 184 

3.  Potting  young  Plants  from  Cuttings 184 

CHAPTER  VIE. 
On  the  Management  of  Cut  Flowers,  Plants  in  Rooms,  and  Bulbs  in 

Pots  and  Water  Glasses. 
ART.  1.  Cut  Flowers 185 

2.  Plants  in  Rooms 187 

3.  Growing  Bulbous  Rooted  Plants  for  Rooms 189 

d.  Growing  Bulbs  in  Glasses 189 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Miscellaneous  Tender  Plants. 
ART.  1.  Tender  Green-house  Plants  for  Winter  Flowering,  and 

Planting  in  the  Flower  Garden 190 

2.  Annuals  and  Biennials 193 


XU  TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 

Page. 

ART.  3.  Descriptive  List  of  Annual  Flowers .    .  193 

4.  Descriptive  List  of  Biennials 191 

CHAPTER  X. 
On  the  Propagation  of  Green-house  Plants. 

ABT.  1.  On  Grafting 195 

Whip  Grafting 195 

Cleft  Grafting 196 

Grafting  Tuberous  Roots 197 

Grafting  by  the  Single  Eye 198 

Grafting  by  Approach , 198 

2.  Propagating  Green-house  Plants  by  Cuttings 199 

Striking  Cuttings  in  water 201 

Glossary 202 


PART    I. 


ARRANGEMErrr  OF  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN,  AND  PRO- 
PAGATION OF  PLANTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

On  Laying  out  the  Flower  Garden. 

ART.  1. — General  Remarks. 

THE  principal  object  of  the  "Flower  garden"  being  to 
please  the  eye,  it  should  in  every  department  have  a  clean 
and  healthy  appearance,  which  greatly  facilitates  the  health 
and  growth  of  the  plants  and  flowers  that  it  contains. 

The  situation  should  be  so  selected,  that  all  the  kinds  of 
plants  are,  as  near  as  possible,  accommodated  to  their  natural 
location,  which,  by  general  observation,  will  be  found  to  be  of 
a  more  varied  nature  than  can  in  any  given  spot  be  combined 
to  suit  the  health  and  growth  of  such  plants  as  are  placed  in 
the  flower  garden :  hence  the  propriety  of  selecting  a  soil, 
that  will  suit  most  kinds ;  and  in  some  cases,  a  proper  soil, 
to  suit  those  plants  that  will  not  thrive  without  their  peculiar 
earth  to  support  them. 

A  knowledge  of  these  requisites,  is,  in  a  great  measure,  the 
leading  principle  of  what  is  called  flower-gardening ;  although 
in  many  cases,  the  mere  act  of  culture  is  the  only  object  in 
view,  which  has  but  little  weight  on  the  subject ;  for  we  can 
observe  wild  flowers  growing  luxuriantly  in  their  natural  state, 
without  any  other  assistance  than  the  hand  of  nature. 

For  a  definition  of  the  different  modes  and  management  of 
flowers,  I  refer  the  reader  to  their  respective  heads. 
13  B 


"*5*/>»iJ*»*«»    •  >  -  •      ' 
14  !  ;  %y&  FLOWER  WRDEN*  COMPANION. 


ART.  2.  —  Laying  out  the  Flower  Garden  and  Planting. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  a  correct  method,  for  laying  out  flower 
gardens,  owing  to  the  diversified  opinions  of  different  persons, 
which  are  much  at  variance  with  each  other.  Some  say  that 
nature  should  be  copied,  as  much  as  possible  ;  others  contend 
that  formal  lines  and  geometrical  figures,  such  as  circles,  ovals, 
&c.,  are  best. 

The  extent  and  location  of  the  ground,  and  the  varieties 
of  plants  which  are  to  be  cultivated,  are  the  principal  points 
to  be  considered  in  the  laying  out  of  flower  gardens  ;  these, 
with  a  few  general  rules,  may  guide  almost  any  intelligent 
person  to  perform  the  work  with  good  taste  and  propriety. 

In  small  pieces  of  flat  ground,  intended  for  fancy  flowers 
of  low  growth  and  habit,  the  geometrical  order  may  be  very 
consistently  followed,  as,  the  space  of  ground  being  small,  a 
regular  varied  order  is  the  most  pleasing.  In  laying  out 
such  parterres,  the  ground  should  not  be  too  much  cut  up 
into  small  walks  and  beds  ;  but  they  should  be  in  number  and 
size  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  plat  of  ground  to  be 
planted.  Regard  should  be  always  had  to  have  a  well  pro- 
portioned central  bed,  either  of  an  oval,  circular,  or  other  ap- 
propriate figure  ;  from  this  other  uniform  beds  may  emanate, 
in  proportion,  in  a  geometrical  order.  The  walks  of  such 
beds  should  be  from  two  to  three  feet  wide,  and  the  beds  may 
be  double  the  width  across,  in  the  centre,  as  that  of  the  walks. 
A  good  criterion  is,  that  in  a  small  flower  garden  the  beds 
should  be  no  wider  than  a  person  can  reach  into  the  centre, 
from  the  walk,  to  cut  the  flowers,  without  treading  upon  the 
beds. 

Where  the  ground  is  intended  to  be  planted  with  annual 
flowers  only,  or  especially  for  the  culture  of  bulbous  rooted 
plants,  as  hyacinths,  tulips,  and  hardy  bulbs,  it  may  be  laid 
out  into  four  feet  beds,  with  two  feet  alleys  or  walks. 

At  country  residences,  where  a  large  extent  is  appropriated 
to  this  department,  many  convenient  and  pleasing  appendages 
can  be  judiciously  introduced;  as  rustic  arbors,  rustic  seats, 


ON  LAYING  OUT  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.        15 

and  rockery ;  and  if  water  can  be  connected,  it  always  gives 
a  good  effect.  All  such  appendages,  I  recommend  to  be  con- 
structed in  as  natural  a  manner  as  possible. 

The  arbors  should  be  covered  with  vines  and  creepers,  and 
their  form  not  be  discovered  until  the  person  who  is  desirous 
to  rest,  after  viewing  the  flowers  in  the  other  departments, 
happens  to  stroll  into  them  by  an  easy  walk:  all  such  places 
should  be  constructed  in  the  shade,  for  retirement,  and  not  on 
a  rocky  eminence,  under  the  influence  of  the  burning  sun, 
unless  a  fine  landscape  is  to  be  seen  from  them,  and  then  an 
observatory  is  more  proper. 

In  many  cases,  the  flower  garden  will  have  a  pleasing  ap- 
pearance, when  various  figures  are  cut  in  a  well  kept  grass 
plat,  where  ease  should  invariably  be  attended  to. 

Many  improvements  of  this  kind  may  be  made  with  a 
trifling  expense,  on  large  grass  plats,  especially  in  front  of 
country  residences,  by  the  road  side,  by  making  a  few  judi- 
cious figures,  and  planting  them  with  separate  families  of 
plants.  A  dozen  varieties  of  any  of  the  pretty  kinds  of 
monthly  roses,  are  fine  specimens  for  this  mode  of  ornament- 
ing, which  will  continue  in  flower  during  the  season ;  several 
families  of  perennial  herbaceous  plants,  as  the  beautiful  genus 
of  Phlox,  Penstemons,  and  the  like,  are  also  desirable  plants  for 
this  purpose ;  and  to  these  may  be  added,  the  hardy  bulbous 
rooted  plants,  as  the  tulip,  the  hyacinth,  and  lilies,  which  are 
too  much  neglected  in  the  flower  garden,  for  early  flowering 
plants.  When  the  bulbs  have  done  flowering,  these  beds 
may  be  judiciously  planted  with  annual  flowers,  to  flower  in 
the  fall,  as  the  pretty  kinds  of  balsam,  Petunia  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii,  dwarf  larkspur,  or  any  pretty  kinds.  For  a  selection 
of  the  best  adapted  plants  for  this  purpose,  I  refer  the  reader 
to  the  Descriptive  List  of  the  different  varieties  of  plants 
which  will  be  found  under  their  different  heads. 

In  laying  out  flower  gardens,  great  care  should  always  be 
taken,  that  there  is  a  regular  proportion  of  the  beds  and  walks 
in  the  different  departments  ;  for  it  will  have  a  bad  effect  if 


16          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

any  thing  is  cramped.  The  walks  should,  if  possible,  be 
wide  enough  for  two  persons  to  walk  abreast,  in  order  to  give 
a  social  effect,  which  should  always  be  the  first  consideration 
in  the  flower  garden.  The  beds  should  also  be  well  propor- 
tioned, and  not  too  much  cut  up  into  small  figures,  which, 
when  bordered  with  box  edging,  have  the  appearance  of  so 
many  figures  formed  for  the  amusement  of  children,  more 
than  for  the  purpose  of  growing  flowers.  There  is  also  an- 
other great  error  sustained  in  this  method,  namely,  the  edging 
will  retard  the  growth  of  the  flowers  by  being  close  to  them ; 
for,  indeed,  there  is  nothing  that  so  much  exhausts  the  soil 
of  nutriment,  as  box  edging. 

Every  department  should  have  an  open,  easy  appearance, 
and  regular  proportion. 

I  must  also  beg  leave  to  caution  my  readers  against  the 
very  improper  method  often  practised  of  planting  fruit  trees 
in  the  flower  borders  and  among  shrubs : — the  impropriety  is 
very  evident,  if  we  take  into  consideration  that  many  of  the 
flowers  must  eventually  be  spoiled  in  gathering  the  fruit ;  be- 
sides the  inducements  presented  for  children  to  injure  the 
flowers,  when  in  the  act  of  robbing  the  trees  of  their  fruit. 

If  fruit  is  to  be  planted,  a  proper  place  should  be  selected; 
it  should  never  be  mingled  among  shrubs  and  flowers ; 
unless  the  ornamental  kinds,  as  the  Siberian  crab,  Weeping 
cherry,  and  the  like ;  and  those  have  a  better  effect  as  a 
single  ornamental  object. 

ART.  3. — Soil  and  Materials. 

The  soil  best  adapted  for  the  flower  garden  is  a  mellow 
loam  incorporated  with  some  rotten  manure,  and  a  portion  of 
dry  sand,  with  a  dry,  mellow  subsoil. 

A  part  of  the  ground  should  also  be  of  a  boggy  nature, 
composed  of  black  earth  and  decayed  leaves,  in  a  low  situa- 
tion, for  the  accommodation  of  such  plants  as  grow  in  a  boggy 
soil ;  which  are,  Lobelias,  Iris,  and  the  like. 

The  other  materials  are,  gravel  for  walks,  which  should  be 


ON  LAYING  OUT  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.         17 

coarse  for  the  bottoms,  to  drain  off  the  water  from  the  surface, 
and  fine  gravel  for  the  top,  in  order  that  the  walk  may  bind 
hard.  Stones  for  the  rockery  should  be  of  the  roughest  kind, 
that  nature  may  be  as  much  as  possible  imitated ;  and  the 
arbors  and  trellises,  and  the  like,  should  be  of  the  most  simple 
construction. 

AST.  4. — General  Planting  of  Shrubs  and  Flowers. 

The  best  time  for  planting  shrubs  and  flowers  is  in  the 
spring,  when  the  sap  is  beginning  to  rise.  This  generally 
happens  in  the  month  of  April,  and  is,  perhaps,  the  best  time 
for  performing  such  business. 

In  many  cases,  planting  may  be  very  judiciously  and  eco- 
nomically done  in  the  fall,  especially  on  dry  ground,  and 
where  hasty  improvements  are  to  be  made:  much  work  will 
thus  be  forwarded  before  the  coming  spring. 

The  manner  of  planting  may  be  simply  stated  in  a  few 
words,  combining  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers.  As  almost 
every  species  of  plants  have  a  conjunction  of  their  roots,  a 
few  inches  under  the  earth's  surface,  which,  if  I  may  be  al- 
lowed the  term,  I  will  consider  as  the  crown  of  the  roots  ; 
let  this  be  the  criterion  of  planting,  that  the  above  mentioned 
part  be  placed  a  few  inches  below  the  surface,  and  not  too 
deep,  which,  in  many  cases,  destroys  the  plants,  particularly 
those  that  do  not  freely  root  from  the  foot,  or  the  base  of  the 
stem,  when  their  natural  roots  are  destroyed  by  being  placed 
in  a  situation  injurious  to  them. 

The  proper  manner  of  planting,  or  act  of  inserting  the 
roots,  so  as  to  insure  the  growth  of  the  plants,  is  simply  to 
observe  the  nature  of  the  fibrous  roots  and  place  them  in  their 
natural  position  in  the  soil. 

Those  plants  that  extend  their  roots  far  around  the  crown 
or  centre,  require  a  hole  made  to  accommodate  them,  without 
cramping  their  roots  ;  others,  that  roct  downward  in  a  perpen- 
dicular manner,  as  the  Pa3ony,  and  tuberous  roots,  and  most 

2  B2 


18          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

kinds  of  bulbs,  should  be  planted  so  that  the  roots  find  their 
way  into  deep,  rich  soil. 

In  the  act  of  planting,  place  the  crown  of  the  roots  an  inch 
or  two  deep,  and  close  the  fine  earth  well  about  the  fibres, 
with  either  the  hand  or  foot,  observing  well  the  nature  of  the 
roots :  and  if  the  ground  is  very  dry  in  the  spring,  give  a 
quantity  of  water  to  settle  the  earth  about  them. 

ART.  5. — Location  or  Position  of  Plants. 

Plants  in  their  natural  state  have  their  peculiar  location :  it 
is  also  requisite  to  see  them  in  perfection,  to  place  them  in 
similar  locations,  under  the  hand  of  the  cultivator :  hence, 
running  vines,  such  as  Honeysuckles,  Clematis,  Bignonias, 
and  so  on,  are  most  proper  for  covering  arbors  and  trellises ; 
Ivy  and  Virginian  creepers  for  walls ;  tall  shrubs  for  conceal- 
ing old  boarded  fences,  and  unsightly  objects;  and  the  pretty 
dwarf  flowering  shrubs,  as  the  Double  Almond,  Mezereon, 
and  Roses,  should  be  brought  nearer  the  eye  of  the  observer. 
Their  position  should  also  be  such,  as  to  give  the  effect  of 
variety  of  color,  and  so  arranged  that  a  variety  is  always  in 
blossom,  which  can  be  effected,  by  referring  to  the  Descriptive 
List,  of  the  several  varieties  enumerated  therein. 

ART.  6. — Plan  and  Management  of  Trellises  and  Arbors. 

In  many  flower  gardens,  trellises,  arbors,  and  summer 
houses,  may  be  introduced  to  a  very  good  purpose  for  con- 
cealing offices  and  unseemly  appendages. 

The  form  and  disposal  of  these  must  greatly  depend  on  the 
size  and  situation  of  the  garden. 

In  city  gardens,  trellises  are  mostly  introduced  on  entrances 
to  the  back  offices,  in  which  cases,  they  are  generally  covered 
with  the  Native  grape,  or  other  running  vines,  as  the  Honey- 
suckle and  Clematis.  Such  vines  should  always  be  pruned 
in  the  spring,  and  trained  with  the  greatest  care,  to  guide  the 
summer  shoots,  which  is  often  too  much  neglected,  to  the  in- 
jury of  the  plants. 


ON  LAYING  OUT  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.        19 

The  summer  dressing  of  vines,  is  simply  to  thin  them  out 
where  too  much  wood  is  growing,  and  .which  would  cause  a 
general  weakness  in  the  vine;  the  next  object  is  to  train  the 
young  shoots,  so  that  all  vacant  places  are  regularly  covered. 
These  remarks  will  be  found  applicable  to  all  kinds  of  vines. 

In  flower  gardens  attached  to  country  residences,  the  trellis 
is  mostly  applied  to  arbors,  which  ought  to  be  of  a  rustic 
nature,  and  any  form  most  convenient;  formality  in  their 
structure,  spoils  the  good  effect  they  would  otherwise  produce. 
I  think  that  most  of  my  readers  will  agree,  that  they  should 
be  of  an  easy  and  rural  character. 

ART.  7. — Forming  and  Planting  the  Rockery. 

The  Rockery,  is  perhaps  one  of  the  best  features  of  the 
flower  garden,  and  is  particularly  adapted  to  this  climate :  its 
location  depends  on  taste  and  circumstances.  In  most  cases, 
it  is  placed  in  a  very  conspicuous  situation,  as  the  front  of  the 
Green-house,  principal  entrances,  and  such  like.  By  general 
observation,  I  have  found  that  a  plant  thrives  best  on  the 
rockery,  when  placed  in  a  situation  where  the  principal  part 
of  it  is  partially  shaded  by  shrubbery  or  trees. 

In  extensive  pleasure  grounds,  the  rockery  has  a  good  effect 
when  placed  distinct  from  the  flower  garden,  and  near  a  rustic 
arbor,  or  ornamental  bridge,  or  seat;  and  if  placed  by  the 
side  of  a  retired  walk,  near  the  lawn  or  grass  plot,  it  has  an 
easy  effect  The  form  and  dimensions,  may  be  so  as  to  ac- 
commodate the  location  it  is  placed  in  :  a  long  oval  line,  or 
almost  any  form,  pleases. 

The  materials  should  be  rough  stones,  and  good  rich  earth ; 
the  base  to  be  laid  with  stones,  and  then  a  quantity  of  soil : 
this  method  may  be  pursued  until  the  whole  is  completed. 
When  finished,  it  should  have  as  much  as  possible  a  natural 
appearance,  and  ridge-like  shape. 

The  plants  best  adapted  for  the  rockery,  are  of  the  herba- 
ceous kinds,  as  the  Phlox,  Penstemons,  and  so  on :  all  kinds 
of  pretty  native  plants  may  also  be  pressed  into  the  service  of 


20  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

the  rockery,  as  the  Jlsters,  Wood  Anemones,  Violets,  and,  in 
fact,  all  kinds  of  plants  that  will  thrive  on  a  rock  should  be 
planted  indiscriminately,  without  order,  so  as  to  form  a  variety 
of  flowering  plants  in  every  month  of  the  season.  Plants 
growing  in  this  manner,  always  assume  their  natural  habits, 
and  are  fine  specimens,  for  young  beginners  in  botany,  and 
the  junior  members  of  families  that  are  studying  that  delight- 
ful science:  perhaps  there  is  no  greater  inducement  to  its 
researches,  than  a  fine  collection  of  hardy  native  plants  on 
the  rockery;  especially  if  the  beautiful  tribe  of  ferns  is  to  be 
studied,  which  will  thrive  well  on  rocks. 

Planting  the  rockery,  is  merely  attended  with  inserting  the 
plants  between  the  stones,  in  the  soil,  in  their  natural  situa- 
tions;  either  on  the  sunny  or  shady  side:  if  the  rockery  is 
covered  with  leaves  and  pine  or  hemlock  brush  in  the  winter, 
the  plants  will  flower  much  better  in  the  spring.  Let  it  be 
remembered,  that  most  native  plants  in  woods,  are  indulged 
by  nature  with  a  covering  of  leaves  in  the  winter,  and  there- 
fore the  utility  requires  no  further  comment. 

AHT.  8. — Ornamental  Waters  and  Bridges. 

There  is  nothing  that  I  am  acquainted  with,  that  gives  more 
ease,  and  has  so  fine  an  effect  in  the  ornamental  and  flower 
garden  department,  as  ornamental  waters,  in  any  form  they 
can  be  introduced ;  it  gives  a  relief  to  the  eye,  from  too  much 
sameness  of  the  living  part  of  the  created  world ;  and  calls  to 
mind,  the  utility  that  is  derived  from  its  presence  as  a  me- 
dium conductor  of  food,  to  an  organized  kingdom.  Indepen- 
dent of  this,  the  cooling  aspect  it  assumes,  forms  a  fine  feature 
in  rural  scenery. 

No  correct  definition,  that  I  am  acquainted  with,  can  be 
given  on  the  formation  of  ornamental  water;  therefore  it 
must,  like  many  other  things,  depend  entirely  on  the  taste  of 
those  who  wish  to  introduce  it,  but  in  all  cases,  the  margin  or 
boundary  should  have  a  natural  appearance,  and  seem  to  be 
a  necessary  appendage. 


ON  LAYING  OUT  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.        21 

Rustic  bridges,  also,  are  interesting  objects,  where  they 
appear  to  be  useful  appendages  to  the  flower  garden,  or  orna- 
mental grounds,  in  crossing  streams,  or  even  in  crossing  any 
part  of  the  ground  where  their  presence  seems  needful. 
They  should  be  constructed  in  a  rustic  manner,  of  the  limbs 
of  trees  in  their  natural  state,  to  give  a  good  effect;  formality 
should  as  much  as  possible,  in  this  case,  be  avoided. 

Rustic  seats,  rustic  chairs,  tables,  and  the  like,  may  also  be 
introduced  into  the  flower  garden;  and  when  placed  in  a 
shady  retreat,  or  by  the  side  of  water,  they  are  not  only 
pleasing,  but  useful  acquisitions  to  the  ornamental  department. 

ART.  9. — On  Making  Flower  Gardens. 

In  treating  on  "  the  Laying  out  of  Flower  Gardens,"  I  shall 
confine  the  subject,  in  this  place,  to  the  Parterre,  or  small 
garden.  The  laying  out  of  shrubberies,  and  ornamental  gar- 
dens, with  the  city  flower  gardens,  <fcc.,  will  be  treated  on 
under  their  separate  heads. 

The  plan,  as  has  been  before  stated,  is  merely  a  matter  of 
fancy,  although  it  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general  rule,  that 
the  geometrical  manner  is  the  best  adapted  to  a  small  garden. 

Nicol,  one  of  the  best  writers  on  the  practice  of  laying 
out  flower  gardens  says  :  "  The  laying  out  of  flower  gardens 
is  a  matter  of  very  much  fancy.  Too  many  gravelled  walks 
offend  the  eye,  especially  if  they  be  much  twisted  or  run 
across,  as  it  comprehends  the  whole  at  once.  Their  breadth 
should  be  proportioned  to  that  of  the  beds ;  nor  should  they 
be  sunk,  seldom  more  than  an  inch,  otherwise  they  have  a 
bad  effect,  and  look  rather  like  furrows  than  walks.  They 
may  be  edged  with  box,  thrift,  or  gentiannella,  according  to 
fancy.  But  the  edging,  whatever  it  may  be,  should  be  kept 
low,  thin,  and  neat.  It  should  seldom  be  allowed  to  rise  above 
two  inches  high,  or  spread  above  two  inches  wide.  A  linear 
box  edging  always  pleases*  if  kept  quite  close  and  connected." 

The  ground  being  chosen,  prepare  for  laying  it  out  by  dig- 
ging and  well  pulverizing  it  one  foot  deep,  taking  out  any 


22  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

stones,  or  other  rubbish,  that  may  be  either  troublesome  or 
detrimental  to  the  well-being  of  the  plants ;  it  should  then  be 
made  level  on  the  surface,  and  the  walks  marked  out  to  their 
proper  width.  This  done,  take  out  the  earth  from  the  walks, 
six  inches  deep,  and  spread  on  the  flower  beds,  which  should 
be  so  managed  as  to  leave  them  rather  highest  in  the  middle. 
If  box  edging  is  to  be  planted,  it  should  now  be  done,  when 
the  walks  are  to  be  gravelled,  taking  care  to  keep  the  coarse 
at  the  bottom,  and  the  fine  on  the  top.  This  done,  rake  the 
walks,  and  flower  beds  neatly,  leaving  each  highest  in  the 
middle,  and  the  work  is  done.  When  the  work  is  com- 
pleted, the  beds  and  walks  should  have  a  gradual  rise  from 
the  outside  to  the  centre,  in  order  that  water  drains  gradually 
from  them.  Care  should  also  be  taken,  in  laying  out  of  gar- 
dens, that  they  are  laid  a  little  on  a  descent  to  one  corner,  or 
any  given  point,  so  as  to  let  off  the  superfluous  water ;  it 
should  also  be  a  given  rule,  that  the  flower  garden  attached  to 
dwelling-houses  should  have  a  gradual  descent  from  the  house. 
If  the  earth  where  the  garden  is  to  be  made,  is  of  a  poor, 
sandy,  meagre  nature,  the  soil  should  be  taken  out  where  the 
flower  beds  are  to  be  made,  and  a  mixture  of  good,  mellow 
loam,  with  a  portion  of  well  rotted  manure  added  to  it,  should 
be  put  into  those  places  intended  for  the  beds,  or  borders. 


CHAPTER   II. 

On  the  Nutriment  of  Plants. 

ART.  1. — Preliminary  Remarks. 

BEFORE  I  proceed  to  the  culture  of  plants  and  flowers,  it 
will  be  proper  to  point  out  their  different  nutriments  and 
stimulants,  and  how  they  act  on  the  vegetable  system,  either 
in  a  congenial  or  injurious  manner,  which,  by  a  little  obser- 
vation, will  be  found  to  be  of  great  importance  in  the  culture 


ON  THE    NUTRIMENT   OF    PLANTS.  23 

of  all  kinds  of  plants  and  flowers : — to  this,  I  have  also  added 
some  remarks  on  the  development  of  the  different  parts  of 
plants,  as  the  seed,  the  bud,  the  root,  the  leaf,  and  the  like ; 
•which  I  consider  essential  to  be  known  to  the  cultivator,  and  I 
hope  the  subject  will  therefore  be  of  some  utility  in  this  place. 
These  plants,  like  all  the  other  bodies  which  are  organized, 
require  an  appropriate  nutriment,  for  the  germination  of  seeds, 
and  the  further  development  of  the  vegetable  economy.  The 
most  superficial  observer  is  aware,  that  plants  derive  their 
principal  food  from  the  soil  and  atmosphere,  although  not  in 
equal  proportions.  They  also  require  different  compounds, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  in  which  they  naturally 
grow ;  thus,  the  Cherry,  Peach,  and  Nectarine,  are  found  to 
grow  on  a  light,  dry  soil,  while  the  Pear  and  Plum  require  a 
deep  loamy  soil;  and  aquatics  grow  altogether  in  water, 
as  the  Vallisnera  Spiralis,  Water  Lily,  &c ;  others,  as  the 
Ferns,  live  and  flourish  on  the  hardest  rocks. 

ABT.  2.— Food  of  Plants. 

The  principal  food  of  plants  is  found  to  be  either  vegetable 
or  animal  substances  in  a  decomposed  state,  which  enter  into 
vegetables  by  aqueous  solution,  and  as  it  were  compose  a  new 
vegetable  in  an  organized  state.  This  food  is  principally  ab- 
sorbed by  the  roots  of  plants ;  it  is  also  inhaled  by  the  leaves, 
its  particles  being  often  raised  to  a  considerable  height  by  the 
winds. 

EARTHS,  as  Clay,  Lime,  Flint,  and  Magnesia,  are  also 
absorbed  by  plants,  in  solution.  Each  particular  variety  will 
be  found  to  contain  these  earths  in  different  proportions,  ac- 
cording to  the  preponderance  of  the  soil  in  which  they  grow : 
hence,  by  calcination  of  corn-stalks,  flint  is  found  in  the  ashes, 
and  is  perhaps  one  of  the  finest  finishers  for  steel. 

Plants  inhaling  chalky  soils  possess  portions  of  lime,  and, 
by  analysis,  each  variety  will  be  found  to  contain  a  portion  of 
solid  substance,  which  they  most  readily  imbibe  by  aqueous 
solution. 


24          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

Water. — Some  persons  are  of  opinion,  that  water  is  the 
sole  food  of  plants,  who  found  their  authority  on  the  fact,  that 
many  kinds,  and  particularly  bulbs,  vegetate  and  produce 
their  blossoms  in  that  fluid;  the  reverse  of  this  is,  however, 
the  case,  as,  on  calcination,  those  plants  are  found  to  contain 
component  parts  ;  but  the  quantity  of  water  necessary  for  dif- 
ferent species  is  also  very  apparent ;  as  some  plants  are  found 
to  thrive  on  the  hardest  rocks,  and  must  obtain  their  moisture 
principally  from  their  leaves,  to  which  it  is  first  imparted 
from  the  atmosphere,  whilst  others  are  known  to  live  wholly 
in  water,  and  consequently  must  be  of  a  different  nature  in 
their  solids. 

Atmospheric  Air. — "The  atmosphere,"  says  Stroud,  "is 
composed  of  oxygen,  carbonic  acid,  hydrogen  and  nitrogen 
gases,  in  different  proportions ;  all  these  are  to  be  found  in 
vegetables,  but  they  do  not  all  seem  to  be  vegetable  food. 

"That  oxygen  is  necessary  to  vegetation,  numerous  exper- 
iments have  proved,  and  few  have  been  found  to  subsist  long 
without  it,  when  in  a  growing  state  ;  it  is  therefore  plain,  that 
plants  inhale  a  considerable  quantity  of  the  gas. 

"  Carbonic  Acid. — This  is  also  beneficial  to  plants,  partic- 
ularly to  the  root ;  but  if  too  large  a  quantity  be  applied,  it 
proves  injurious  or  fatal.  Hydrogen  and  nitrogen  are  sup- 
posed to  enter  vegetables  in  combination  with  other  sub- 
stances, as  when  they  are  applied  separately  to  growing 
plants,  they  refuse  to  inhale  either  of  them,  and  death  is  the 
consequence. 

"  From  these  facts,  it  appears  that  vegetables  have  a  power 
of  extracting  from  the  atmosphere,  those  parts  which  contrib- 
ute to  their  growth  and  health,  as  well  as  from  the  soil,  and 
of  refusing  to  admit  the  constituents  of  either." 

The  above  facts  plainly  show  the  utility  and  necessity  of 
obtaining  a  proper  air,  requisite  to  the  growth  and  health  of 
the  plant ;  whether  in  a  frame  room  or  green-house,  the  ne- 
cessity is  the  same.  When  unwholesome  air  is  present,  the 
plant  suffers  in  proportion  to  the  portion  of  improper  gas : 


OX  THE  NUTRIMENT  OF  PLANTS.  t5 

the  most  delicate  parts,  as  the  flower,  or  young  fruit,  being 
first  affected,  generally  perishes  :  the  next  is  the  tender  leaves 
and  branches,  and  so  in  succession  ;  but  in  some  cases,  as 
tender  annuals,  foul  internal  air  destroys  the  plant  in  its  infant 
state. 

To  all  plants  in  a  growing  state,  a  small  quantity  of  exter- 
nal air  should  always  be  admitted,  in  order  to  rectify  the  in- 
ternal air.  This  plan  should  be  observed  in  the  green-house 
rooms  and  other  confined  places. 

ABT.  3. — Light 

u  Fairest  of  beings !  first  created,  Light ! 
Prime  cause  of  beauty  !  for,  from  thee  alone, 
The  sparkling  gem, — the  vegetable  race, — 
The  nobler  worlds  that  live  and  breathe,  their  charms, 
The  lovely  hues  peculiar  to  each  tribe, — 
From  thy  unfading  source  of  splendor,  draw  ! 
In  thy  pure  rays,  with  transport,  I  survey 
This  firmament,  and  those  her  rolling  worlds ; 
Their  magnitudes  and  motions.'* 

Light  is  one  of  the  most  requisite  agents  to  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  as  few  vegetables  (the  Fungious  excepted)  are 
known  to  thrive  and  have  their  proper  qualities  without  this 
stimulant. 

The  most  common  observer  may  have  ocular  demonstra- 
tion of  this  fact,  by  plants  generally  growing  towards  the 
light,  in  windows  of  houses  and  confined  situations ;  and  as 
soon  as  the  plant  is  reversed,  the  position  is  reversed  also. 
Leaves,  flowers  and  fruits,  are  always  more  replete  with  their 
proper  qualities,  when  in  an  exposed  situation.  This  is  ob- 
servable in  the  tops  of  trees.  It  is  generally  understood  by 
horticulturalists,  that  no  light  as  yet  known  artificially,  will 
compensate  for  the  absence  of  the  sun. 

That  vegetables  lose  their  proper  qualities,  when  deprived 
of  the  presence  of  light,  is  exemplified  in  the  Celery  and  En- 
dive when  blanched ;  which  is  effected  by  excluding  them 
from  the  light,  in  which  case  the  vegetable  loses  its  natural 

3  C 


26  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION, 

qualities  in  a  certain  degree.  So  tenacious  of  light,  are  most 
kinds  of  plants,  that,  when  deprived  of  this  stimulant,  they 
begin  to  assume  a  yellow  appearance,  and  in  time,  when 
fully  excluded,  they  turn  to  a  clear  white :  it  is  also  obvious, 
that  when  they  again  receive  a  full  share  of  stimulating  influ- 
ence, they  resume  their  wonted  appearance. 

I  shall  conclude  this  subject  by  impressing  on  the  mind  of 
my  readers,  the  utility  of  light  to  plants  generally,  and  es- 
pecially in  frames  and  green-houses,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
season,  when  every  opportunity  should  be  taken  to  admit  it. 
Let  them  also  remember  that  in  winter,  owing  to  the  short 
days,  the  due  quantity  of  light  cannot  be  given  ;  this  should 
always  be  taken  into  consideration  by  the  cultivator. 

ART.  4.— Heat. 

It  is  very  evident  to  the  most  common  observer,  that  a  cer- 
tain degree  of  heat  is  required  by  all  plants  to  cause  them  to 
grow,  in  a  healthy,  vigorous  state.  As  we  find  that  plants 
similarly  situated,  though  natives,  do  not  all  vegetate  at  the 
same  time :  so  also  seeds  require  a  different  temperature  of 
heat,  to  cause  them  to  vegetate  freely ;  hence  it  will  be  seen 
that  all  kinds  of  native  seeds  vegetate  early  in  the  spring,  and 
many  exotics,  as  the  Stock-gilliflower,  Candy-tuft,  and  the 
like  hardy  kinds :  while  the  more  tender  varieties,  as  the 
Balsam,  Globe  Amaranth,  Cypress  vine,  and  the  like,  must 
be  deferred  until  a  warmer  season.  The  same  affinity  is 
also  observable  in  the  circulation  of  sap  in  trees,  as  they  are 
seen  to  put  out  their  foliage  and  to  commence  in  growth  at 
different  times  in  the  same  location. 

Heat  may  be  considered  under  two  heads,  namely,  sun 
heat,  or  natural;  and  artificial,  as  that  applied  by  fire,  fermen- 
tation and  the  like.  Sun  heat  may  be  in  all  cases  considered 
as  natural  to  plants,  although  in  many  cases  where  plants  are 
placed  in  very  moist  situations  they  are  drawn  weak  when  it 
acts  too  powerfully  on  them  after  much  wet,  and  in  such 
cases  the  leaves  are  seen  to  flag  and  shrivel  up.  Fire  heat 


ON  THE  NUTRIMENT  OF  PLANTS.  27 

also  when  applied  in  too  high  a  degree  to  plants,  injures  their 
constitution  in  a  manner  that  they  lose  in  a  certain  degree 
their  natural  strength  or  habit.  Heat  and  moisture,  in  all  ca- 
ses, should  be  regulated  as  much  as  possible  to  correspond  to 
the  natural  habit  of  the  plants  that  are  to  be  cultivated. 

ART.  5. — Observations  on  the  Roots  of  Plants. 

The  roots  of  plants  being  intended  by  nature  as  channels 
by  which  the  principal  food  is  absorbed  and  conveyed  to  the 
different  parts,  and  finally  forms  a  part  of  the  plant,  should 
be  very  familiar  to  the  cultivator. 

By  due  observation  it  will  be  seen  that  the  adaptation  of 
plants  to  their  proper  soil  is  of  the  greatest  importance,  as 
plants  placed  in  a  soil  uncongenial  to  them,  seldom  thrive 
well,  owing  to  improper  food  being  absorbed  by  their  roots  : 
and,  in  many  cases,  roots  have  been  known  to  travel  out  of 
their  proper  position  in  quest  of  a  more  proper  nutriment. 
The  time  of  circulation  of  the  sap  in  roots  is  different  in  dif- 
ferent kinds,  as  may  be  exemplified  by  plants  and  shrubs  be- 
ginning to  put  forth  their  leaves  at  various  periods,  in  the 
same  location.  This  fact  may  be  proved  by  any  intelligent 
observer  who  will  notice  the  commencement  of  vegetation  in 
native  plants  and  shrubs,  in  any  given  part  of  the  country, 
under  the  same  circumstances  and  in  the  same  location. 

"  Roots  being  furnished  with  the  power  of  perpetually  ad- 
ding new  living  matter  to  their  points,"  says  Lindley,  «« are 
thus  enabled  to  pierce  the  solid  earth  in  which  they  grow ;  to 
insinuate  themselves  between  the  most  minute  crevices,  and 
to  pass  on  from  place  to  place  as  fast  as  the  food  in  contact 
with  them  is  consumed.  So  that  plants,  although  not  loco- 
motive like  animals,  do  perpetually  shift  their  mouths  in 
search  of  fresh  pasturage,  although  their  bodies  remain  sta- 
tionary." 

He  further  continues,  "  There  is  no  period  of  the  year 
when  roots  become  altogether  inactive,  except  when  they 
are  actually  frozen.  At  all  other  times  during  the  winter 


28  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

they  are  perpetually  attracting  food  from  the  earth,  and  con- 
veying it  into  the  interior  of  the  plant,  where  it,  at  that  sea- 
son, is  stored  up  till  it  is  required  by  the  young  shoot  of  the 
succeeding  year.  The  whole  tissue  of  a  plant  will,  therefore, 
become  distended  with  fluid  by  the  return  of  spring,  and  the 
degree  of  distention  will  be  in  proportion  to  the  mildness  and 
length  of  the  previous  winter.  As  the  new  shoots  of  spring 
are  vigorous  or  feeble  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  food 
that  may  be  prepared  for  them,  it  follows,  that  the  longer  the 
period  of  rest  from  growth,  the  more  vigorous  the  vegetation 
of  the  plant  will  become  when  once  renewed,  if  that  period 
is  not  excessively  protracted. " 

Anx.  6. — Observations  on  the  Bud. 

The  bud  of  plants  is  very  aptly  termed  by  the  botanist,  the 
hybernacula  or  winter  quarters.  It  is  formed  in  the  sum- 
mer, and  properly  fed  and  nourished  by  the  descending  sap. 
Buds  may  be  considered  under  three  definitions :  first,  buds 
which  contain  the  rudiments  and  organization  of  fruits  only, 
as  the  Cherry,  Plum,  and  Pear;  second,  buds  which  con- 
tain the  blossom  and  wood-buds  under  the  same  covering,  as 
the  Grape,  and  most  other  trailing  vines ;  and  thirdly,  those 
which  contain  all  the  rudiments  of  a  young  plant  in  embryo, 
as  the  Cherry,  Plum,  and  Pear,  which  are  called  wood-buds. 

Nature  has  carefully  protected  "those  precious  appendages 
of  plants,  by  covering  them  with  a  hard,  scaly  substance  out- 
wardly, and  a  woolly  substance  inwardly,  to  protect  the  more 
tender  parts. 

It  will  be  found  by  a  due  observance  of  buds,  that  those 
which  produce  the  fruit  are  the  most  delicate,  and  of  course 
the  most  liable  to  injury  by  drought,  cold,  and  the  many 
causes  inimical  to  them;  hence  the  Peach,  and  many  other 
fruit  trees  require  protection  during  the  winter  in  the  North- 
ern states,  particularly  those  that  have  been  grown  under 
glass,  the  buds  of  which  are  always  more  delicate  than  when 
the  tree  is  wholly  exposed. 


ON  THE  NUTRIMENT  OF  PLANTS.  29 

The  blossom-bud  being  injured  in  any  way,  either  by  cold 
or  other  casualty  detrimental  to  it,  is  generally  destroyed ;  but 
the  wood-bud  on  the  same  tree  or  shrub,  is  not,  although  ex- 
posed to  the  same  injuries ;  and  in  many  cases,  as  the  Grape 
Vine,  the  blossom-bud  is  blinded  or  destroyed  by  many 
causes  detrimental  to  it,  although  the  vine  will  perhaps  break 
and  grow  in  a  very  healthy  manner. 

AnT.  7. — Observations  on  the  Leaf. 

The  leaves  of  plants  being  the  principal  organs  of  respira- 
tion, also  contribute  to  their  growth  by  their  power  of  absorp- 
tion ;  they  are  of  the  greatest  importance  in  this  operation. 
The  surrounding  air,  whether  internal  or  external,  being  ab- 
sorbed by  their  agency,  requires  to  be  of  a  pure  and  whole- 
some nature,  in  order  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy,  vigorous 
state.  We  are  informed  by  botanists  that  the  leaves  of 
plants  are  synonymous  with  the  lungs  of  animals,  therefore, 
whatever  disease  is  imbibed  by  them,  enters  into  their  system. 

When  too  much  heat  and  moisture  are  applied  in  green- 
houses, or  frames,  where  plants  are  growing,  it  is  imbibed  by 
the  leaf,  and  the  consequence  is,  that  the  plant  is  elongated 
without  its  proper  qualities,  the  leaves  assume  a  feeble  ap- 
pearance, and  are  often  totally  destroyed,  when  the  sun  and 
air  act  on  them  sufficiently  to  nourish  their  more  healthy 
parts.  Leaves,  when  decaying,  are  most  liable  to  breed 
many  insects,  as,  the  Red  Spider,  Trip,  and  all  other  insects 
which  are  increased  by  decomposition ;  therefore,  decaying 
and  dead  leaves  should,  in  all  cases,  be  taken  from  plants  in 
a  state  of  vegetation. 

In  conclusion  to  what  has  been  said  on  trees  and  plants,  it 
appears  evident  that  the  native  of  all  kinds  of  plants  in  the 
common  idea,  is  the  primitive,  and  is  perpetual,  and  that  every 
variety,  of  improved  quality,  must  originate  from  it,  either  by 
chance  or  luxuriant  culture ;  and  it  is  at  the  same  time  clear, 
that  by  crossing  the  primitive  or  native  plants  of  any  country, 
of  the  same  natural  order,  new  varieties,  of  improved  quali- 

c  2 


30  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ties,  are  produced,  congenial  to  the  country  which  has  given 
birth  to  such  varieties.  From  the  very  best  of  experiments 
and  authority,  it  has  been  proved,  that  in  raising  plants,  either 
from  seed,  cuttings,  grafting,  or  any  other  mode  of  propaga- 
tion, those  kinds  that  have  been  propagated  in  a  hardy  and 
natural  manner  are  the  best  qualified  to  withstand  the  natural 
changes  of  the  climate ;  and  that,  although,  by  nursing  many 
tender  plants,  they  are  brought  to  great  perfection  with  atten- 
tive culture,  it  cannot  be  recommended  to  answer  in  a  general 
way. 

Any  intelligent  observer  will  discover,  that  plants  of  all 
kinds  require  to  be  so  situated  that  the  sun  and  air  have,  as 
much  as  possible,  free  access  to  every  part  of  their  leaves, 
fruit,  and,  indeed,  all  parts  of  the  plants ;  and  that  any  vio- 
lence, either  by  severe  pruning,  disease,  blights,  unwholesome 
food  or  air  that  is  present,  acts  on  their  system  materially, 
either  directly  or  indirectly. 


CHAPTER   III. 

On  Hie  Propagation  of  Plants. 

ART.  1. — General  Observations. 

To  describe  the  many  methods  practised  in  propagating 
plants,  would  far  exceed  my  prescribed  limits,  and  be  alto- 
gether foreign  to  this  treatise,  which  is  intended  to  condense, 
as  much  as  possible,  the  most  requisite  subjects  to  be  known 
by  those  who  are  desirous  to  become  acquainted  with  the  cul- 
ture of  the  flower  garden.  The  propagation  of  plants,  may 
be  considered  strictly  belonging  to  the  nursery  department, 
and  would  require  more  space  than  the  contents  of  this  book 
to  fully  describe;  therefore,  the  subject  has  been  confined  to 
such  methods  as  could  be  done  with  perfect  ease  by  any  per- 
son interested  in  the  subject. 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PLANTS.  31 

The  plan,  it  will  be  perceived,  is  as  much  as  possible  con- 
densed into  regular  methods — and  those  plants  to  be  operated 
upon  are  designated  by  their  proper  character,  in  the  Descrip- 
tive List  of  their  respective  departments,  by  which  much 
space  and  repetition  is  in  this  place  obviated.  .  _  ,.-, 

Of  all  the  different  processes  in  Horticulture,  propagation, 
or  increase,  is  the  most  difficult,  and,  consequently,  requires 
every  attention  of  the  operator.  Correctness  must  be,  in  all 
cases,  attended  to,  and  a  neat  and  active  performance  of  the 
subject  acted  upon  must  be  duly  regarded,  as  in  amputation, 
insertion,  and  the  like  principles,  that  will  be  requisite  in  the 
different  operations. 

ART.  2. — Propagation  by  Seed. 

The  seed  contains  all  the  rudiments  of  the  parent  plant  in 
emhryo ;  and  expands  its  functionary  qualities,  and  is  de- 
veloped into  a  new  plant  when  the  necessary  stimulants  and 
nutriments  are  present,  either  in  a  natural  or  artificial  form. 
The  propagation  of  any  plant  or  seed,  out  of  its  natural  cli- 
mate, is  attended,  in  all  cases,  by  artificial  means,  and  is, 
therefore,  under  the  laws  of  culture. 

Proper  location  for  Seed. — That  most  plants  require  a 
proper  location,  is  very  apparent  to  the  inquiring  observer ; 
some  are  found  to  grow  naturally,  and  thrive,  in  water,  as  the 
Water  Lily ;  others  may  be  considered  as  amphibious,  grow- 
ing sometimes  in,  and  at  others  out  of  water,  as  the  Water 
Plantain,  Arrowhead,  and  the  like ;  to  the  reverse  of  this, 
we  find  some  plants  living  and  thriving  on  rocks,  and  such 
locations,  where  it  is  very  difficult  to  receive  water  or  food 
from  any  other  source  than  atmospheric  air.  Other  plants, 
we  find,  are  natives  of  rich  and  fertile  valleys ;  and  some  are 
ornamentally  intended,  by  nature,  as  a  fringe  to  the  woods, 
by  way  sides,  and  the  like ;  hence,  a  corresponding  climate, 
soil,  and  situation,  are  always  the  best  adapted,  and  should  be 
as  near  as  possible  obtained,  to  grow  seeds  and  to  propagate 
young  plants  to  perfection. 


32  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

By  a  little  observation,  it  will  be  seen  that  many  seeds 
perish  in  their  natural  soil  and  climate,  by  accidental  causes, 
when  they  are  not  imbedded  in  the  ground ;  and,  in  some 
cases,  not  one  of  a  thousand  vegetates,  while,  if  assisted,  by 
being  placed  in  a  proper  situation,  two  out  of  three  would 
grow ;  other  seeds  almost  universally  grow  when  they  leave 
the  plants  in  an  accidental  manner.  This  fact  is,  in  the  first 
case,  exemplified  in  large  seeds,  as  nuts,  and  the  like.  The 
Hickory  and  Chesnut  are  seen  to  bear  bushels  of  nuts,  or 
seed,  which  fall  from  the  tree  and  are  dispersed  on  their 
natural  soil,  but  rarely  vegetate,  owing  to  their  not  being  im- 
bedded in'the  earth  deep  enough  to  receive  a  regular  and  pro- 
per nutriment  to  cause  them  to  grow.  Most  native  annual 
seeds  vegetate  freely,  their  covers  being  thin  and  of  a  small 
size,  by  which  they  are  easily  imbedded  in  the  earth  to  a 
proper  depth  to  cause  vegetation  to  proceed  at  the  proper 
season.  The  principal  point  to  be  attended  to,  in  making 
seeds  vegetate,  is,  that  they  are  sown  in  a  soil  where  they  can 
easily  take  root,  and  in  a  depth  corresponding  to  their  size. 
Small  seeds,  as  the  Poppy,  and  Mignonette,  should  scarcely 
be  covered ;  and  larger,  as  the  Balsam,  and  &ster,  may  be 
covered  deeper,  and  so  in  proportion  to  their  different  sizes. 
In  some  cases,  frost  destroys  the  vegetative  principle  of  seed 
when  it  is  not  well  ripened;  or  placed  in  a  warm,  moist  situ- 
ation, where  it  begins  to  grow  at  an  unnatural  season.  But  I 
have  never  known  seed  of  any  kind  destroyed  by  cold  when 
perfectly  dry  and  well  ripened. 

The  necessary  food  and  stimulants  to  cause  seed  to  vege- 
tate are,  heat,  air,  and  water.  When  a  proper  quantity  of 
these  are  applied  to  seed,  it  will  germinate,  unless  it  has  lost 
its  proper  qualities  of  germination,  by  age  or  other  causes  de- 
trimental to  it,  but  so  soon  as  germination  takes  place,  the 
necessary  food  and  soil  must  also  be  present,  or  it  soon  per- 
ishes; many  seeds,  as  Cress,  Mustard,  and  Radish,  are  grown 
in  flannel,  kept  continually  moist,  for  the  purpose  of  small  salads 
in  the  winter ;  but  although  they  are  so  grown,  they  do  not 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PLANTS.  33 

possess  their  proper  qualities,  as  they  would  not  in  that  state 
grow  to  their  natural  size  and  substance,  or  produce  seed, 
which  is  the  essence  of  life.  Seed  cannot  possibly  vegetate 
when  perfectly  dry,  although  the  quantity  of  moisture  requi- 
site to  its  germination  is  different  in  different  seeds ;  for  the 
want  of  moisture,  many  seeds  perish  in  the  ground,  in  the 
spring,  when  badly  sown,  particularly  small,  minute  kinds, 
which  are  often  exposed  on  a  dry  soil,  with  a  burning  sun, 
for  several  weeks,  during  which  time  the  vital  principle  is  de- 
stroyed ;  and  hence  the  seed  that  was  good  becomes  bad,  so 
called,  and  all  the  skill  or  management  bestowed  on  it  can  no 
more  cause  it  to  vegetate  or  grow  than  the  most  inert  sub- 
stance known;  hence  seedsmen  are  often  charged  with  vend- 
ing bad  seeds,  when  the  fault  actually  belongs  to  the  planter, 
whose  duty  it  is  to  give  them  a  fair  trial  before  he  passes 
sentence  of  condemnation. 

Light. — Although  many  seeds  grow  best  in  darkness,  and 
in  many  cases  excluding  them  from  light  is  beneficial  to  their 
germination,  they  cannot  continue  to  grow  long  without  the 
presence  of  light,  but  will  turn  yellow  and  die,  for  the  want 
of  that  stimulant  to  form  their  proper  substance.  In  many 
cases,  seeds  are  covered,  when  sown  in  dry  seasons,  and 
kept  continually  moist ;  but  when  they  grow,  they  are  exposed 
by  degrees  to  sun  and  air.  This  is  a  good  method,  and  may 
be  profitably  applied  to  many  kinds  in  the  flower  garden. 

An-r.  3. — Propagation  by  Roots. 

Increase  of  bulbous  rooted  plants. — Bulbous  rooted  plants 
are  increased  by  taking  the  offsets,  or  side  bulbs,  from  the 
parent  plant,  as  the  Hyacinth,  Tulip,  and  the  like.  The 
young  bulbs  are  to  be  taken  from  the  parent,  and  treated  in 
every  way  the  same,  with  this  exception,  they  do  not  require 
so  much  room  to  grow,  as  they  will  not  flower  the  first  season 
of  planting.  They  must  be  separated  from  the  parent  with 
the  finger  and  thumb,  and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  bruise 
them  in  the  operation. 


34          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

Some  bulbs,  as  the  Garlic,  and  Shallots,  form,  a  truss  of 
bulbs,  from  the  centre  of  the  plant,  which  is  to  be  divided,  in 
order  to  form  a  new  plant;  others  are  increased  from  the  tops, 
as  the  Tiger  Lily ;  such  are  termed  cauline  bulbs,  or  bulbs 
of  the  stalk ;  they  only  require  to  be  taken  from,  and  treated 
as,  the  parent. 

Increase  of  tuberous  rooted  plants. — The  tuberous  rooted 
are  exemplified  in  the  P&ony,  and  Dahlias;  the  root  forms 
a  crown,  to  which  are  connected  many  tubers,  which  are  to 
be  divided  with  a  sharp  knife,  in  such  a  manner,  as  to  leave 
part  of  the  crown,  with  one  or  more  eyes  or  buds  to  each 
plant ;  those  parts  are  to  be  inserted  in  the  ground,  in  the 
same  manner  and  soil,  and  treated  in  the  same  way  as  the 
mother  plant. 

Increase  of  fibrous  rooted  herbaceous  plants. — Fibrous 
rooted  herbaceous  plants  are  increased  by  dividing  the  crown, 
or  main  root,  as  the  Phlox,  and  perennial  Larkspur.  This 
method  may  be  applied  to  most  hardy  fibrous  rooted  plants, 
in  the  month  of  September,  or  beginning  of  May. 

Increase  by  fleshy  roots, — examples  of  which  are  among 
many  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants,  as  the  Campanula  Pyra- 
midalis,  and  the  different  varieties.  Such  plants  are  readily 
propagated  by  breaking  the  roots  into  small  pieces,  an  inch 
or  two  in  length,  and  inserting  into  pots  so  that  the  top  of  the 
cutting  is  just  equal  with  the  surface  of  the  earth  in  the  pot. 
In  this  manner,  they  make  roots  from  the  joints,  and  every 
part  makes  a  plant ;  when  rooted,  they  may  be  potted  into 
small  pots,  or  planted  into  the  place  assigned  for  their  final 
flowering. 

Geraniums,  and  many  kinds  of  green-house  plants,  may 
be  propagated  in  this  manner,  by  putting  the  cuttings  of  the 
roots  in  a  compost  of  one-fourth  good  sharp  sand,  and  the 
remainder  prepared  compost,  as  recommended  for  green-house 
plants.  When  they  are  propagated  in  this  manner,  the  roots 
may  be  managed  in  every  way  the  same  as  cuttings  of  the 
same  kind  of  plants. 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PLANTS.          35 

Roses,  of  different  varieties,  may  be  readily  increased  by 
the  roots ;  indeed,  there  are  many  kinds,  as  the  Yellow  Har- 
risonii,  or  Harrison's  Yellow,  and  many  of  the  Scotch  Roses, 
with  difficulty  propagated  by  any  other  method  than  by  roots. 
It  may  also  be  applied  to  many  kinds  of  the  monthly  with 
good  success.  The  method  is  to  take  the  long  running  roots 
of  the  kind  desired  to  be  increased,  and  cut  into  pieces,  from 
one  to  two  or  three  inches  in  length ;  this  may  be  done  in  the 
month  of  February,  or  any  time  when  the  plants  are  not  in  a 
growing  state,  and  when  it  can  be  done  in  the  green-house 
department;  having  the  roots  thus  prepared,  prepare  a  com- 
post of  a  good  portion  of  sharp  sand,  leaf  mould,  and  good 
maiden  loam,  which  mix  well  together,  fill  a  number  of  pots, 
or  boxes,  (old  glass  boxes  will  answer  a  good  purpose) ;  the 
cuttings  may  then  be  inserted  into  the  pots,  in  such  a  manner 
that  their  tops  are  even  with  the  surface  of  the  earth;  this 
done,  give  them  a  gentle  watering,  to  settle  the  earth  about 
them,  and  the  work  is  done.  :-'-j  - 

Increase  by  grafting  of  roots. — This  may  be  done  by 
grafting  the  roots  of  Roses,  by  putting  the  tender  choice  varie- 
ties on  those  of  a  strong  growth ;  the  Boursault,  and  any  free 
growing  kinds  that  have  long  straggling  roots,  are  the  best 
kinds  for  the  stocks ;  the  scions,  or  grafts,  may  be  taken  from 
the  young  wood  of  the  kinds  intended  to  be  increased,  which 
should  be  well  ripened.  The  month  of  February  is  the  best 
time  for  performing  this  business,  and  the  manner  of  grafting 
is  precisely  the  same  as  that  recommended  under  the  head  of 
Whip  Grafting.  The  roots  for  this  purpose  should  have  a 
quantity  of  fibres  at  the  small  ends,  so  that  they  may  have 
means  to  nourish  the  grafts  when  they  begin  to  vegetate. 
When  the  roots  are  grafted,  they  may  be  put  into  pots,  or 
boxes,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  roots,  and  placed 
where  they  will  vegetate  freely ;  care  must  be  taken  to  keep 
them  well  watered,  and  attended  until  they  are  well  united, 
when  they  may  be  either  transplanted  into  the  place  intended 


35          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

for  their  flowering,  or  into  pots,  if  required  for  the  green- 
house department. 

ART.  4. — Propagation  by  Running  Vines  and  Creepers. 
The  Potentilla,  Strawberry,  and  Periwinkle,  are  examples 
of  running  vines.  Such  plants  are  increased  by  taking  off 
their  joints  where  they  have  rooted,  and  planting  in  the  same 
manner  and  soil  as  their  parent  plants,  in  the  month  of  Sep- 
tember :  this  process  may  be  greatly  facilitated  by  covering 
the  joints  with  fine  earth  and  keeping  them  moist  previous  to 
their  rooting. 

ART.  5. — Propagation  by  Cuttings. 

Many  kinds  of  hardy  shrubs  are  increased  by  cuttings  from 
the  young  wood  of  deciduous  plants,  which  is  performed  in 
the  spring.  The  plants  that  are  increased  by  this  method, 
are  the  JLlthea,  or  Rose  of  Sharon,  Snowballs,  Honeysuckles* 
and  most  kinds  of  soft  wooded  plants.  The  manner  of  per- 
forming this  work,  is  to  prepare  a  piece  of  moist,  shady 
ground,  by  digging  and  dressing  the  surface :  when  the  ground 
is  ready,  the  cuttings  are  to  be  prepared  by  cutting  them  one 
foot  in  length,  and  inserting  them  into  the  ground  six  inches 
deep ;  the  rows  should  be  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  the  cut- 
tings eight  inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows.  When  the 
cuttings  are  inserted,  the  ground  must  be  pressed  hard  to  them 
by  the  foot,  and  raked  off  in  a  neat  manner.  The  after  man- 
agement, is  merely  to  keep  the  ground  clean  about  the  plants 
during  the  summer ;  and  in  the  autumn  they  will  be  perfectly 
rooted.  A  moist  northern  aspect  is  the  best  location  for  this 
business. 

ART.  6. — Propagation  by  Layers. 

The  increase  of  plants  by  layers,  is  performed  on  most 
kinds  of  hard  wooded  plants  in  the  autumn,  or  early  in  the 
spring,  as  the  Rose,  and  Double-flow Bering  JHmond.  The 
manner  of  performing  this  business,  is  to  dig  and  prepare  the 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PLANTS.  87 

ground  about  the  mother  plant ;  the  young  shoots  are  then 
prepared,  by  bending  them  down  to  the  ground,  in  order  to 
find  the  proper  length  required  to  be  inserted ;  a  sharp  knife 
must  be  applied  to  the  under  part  of  the  shoot  at  a  joint,  cut- 
ting, in  a  slanting  manner,  upward,  about  half  an  inch  in 
length :  the  part  is  then  inserted  in  the  soil,  from  two  to  three 
inches  deep,  in  such  a  manner  that  the  wound  or  cut  a  is  left 
open,  and  pressed  perpendicularly  into  the  ground :  a  hooked 


Fig.  1.    Layering. 

stick  b  is  then  placed  over  the  layer  in  order  to  keep  it  in  a 
proper  position ;  raise  nearly  upright  the  end  of  the  layer  c, 
which  remains  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This  should 
be  done  to  every  layer,  to  prevent  the  wound  from  uniting, 
being  the  part  from  whence  the  roots  will  be  made  for  the 
young  plant. 

Carnations,  Pinks,  and  such  like  plants,  are  chiefly  in- 
creased in  this  manner ;  the  proper  season  for  laying  these  is 
August  and  September.  Many  others,  as  the  Sweet  William 
Pinks,  and  their  natural  family,  may  be  laid  by  simply  taking 
out  the  centre  of  the  plant,  and  placing  a  quantity  of  earth 
sufficient  to  cover  the  side  shoots,  which  will  form  a  circle  of 
young  plants  in  a  few  weeks. 


I) 


38          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ART.  7. — Increase  by  Inoculation. 

Many  trees  and  shrubs  are  increased 'by  inoculation,  or 
budding;  which  is  generally  done  to  propagate  such  plants  as 
do  not  thrive  well  by  the  methods  heretofore  described. 

Inoculation  may  be  very  successfully  performed  on  almost 
every  variety  of  Roses,  as  the  White  Moss,  Unique, Bour- 
boun,  and  all  the  finest  varieties, — on  the  wild  kinds,  or  those 
of  a  strong  habit. 

The  Double-lowering  Apple,  Double  Cherry,  and  many 
ornamental  trees,  may  also  be  inoculated  on  those  of  their 
natural  family;  and  so  also  with  all  trees  and  shrubs  that 
have  large  full  buds.  The  best  time  for  performing  this 
operation,  is  when  the  buds  that  are  to  be  taken  off  from  the 
choice  kind  are  well  ripened,  and  the  bark,  or  rind,  leaves  the 
wood  freely:  this  will  generally  be  about  the  latter  end  of 
July,  or  beginning  of  August.  The  plants  intended  to  be  ino- 
culated, should  also  be  in  a  healthy  state ;  and  the  bark  should 
part  freely  from  the  wood,  or  the  success  will  be  doubtful. 
And  here  it  is  necessary  to  state,  that  in  many  cases,  inocu- 
lation is  almost  uselessly  performed  on  trees  and  plants  that 
are  in  an  unhealthy  condition;  the  bud  inserted  must  eventu- 
ally die  for  want  of  proper  sap  and  nutriment. 

Severe  criticisms  are  often  bestowed  on  gardeners,  who 
adopt  the  plan  of  inoculation  during  the  season,  when  the 
buds  which  are  by  them  inserted  die ;  which  in  many  cases 
cannot  possibly  be  avoided,  if  the  plants  are  sickly,  and  do 
not  have  their  requisite  food  and  nourishment.  This  is  often 
the  case  with  the  Orange,  and  Lemon,  which  are  inoculated, 
and,  perhaps,  exposed  to  the  sun,  without  water  for  many 
days ;  in  which  case  the  buds  must  eventually  perish  for 
want  of  nourishment.  But  I  am  now  digressing,  which  I 
hope  will  be  excused  in  this  place,  for  without  some  remarks 
on  the  subject  before  me,  it  would  be  impossible  to  elucidate 
the  most  proper  and  necessary  points. 

Jlrt.of  Inoculation. — At  the  proper  season,  when  the 
plants  to  be  inoculated  are  in  a  right  condition,  prepare  for 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PLANTS. 


39 


the  operation  by  collecting  healthy  shoots  of 
the  summer's  growth,  of  such  kinds  as  are  in- 
tended to  be  increased ;  when  the  shoots  are 
taken  from  the  trees,  they  are  to  be  divested 
of  their  leaves,  leaving  a  part  of  the  footstalk  to 
the  length  of  half  an  inch ;  they  are  then  to  be 
kept  damp  until  they  are  inserted,  which  should 
be  as  soon  as  possible  after  being  separated  from 
the  trees. — (See  Fig.  2.) 

There  are  many  ways  of  inserting  buds ;  but 
I  shall  confine  myself  to  the  most  general,  and, 
I  believe,  most  successful  method,  which  is  per- 
formed by  making  an  incision  in  the  tree  in- 
tended to  be  inoculated,  in  the  form  of  a  T,  (Fig. 
3.)  by  first  cutting  through  the  rind,  on  the  top, 
in  a  transverse  manner,  holding  the  knife  be- 
tween the  fore  finger  and  thumb :  the  bottom  in- 
cision is  made  by  drawing  the  point  of  the  knife 
downward  an  inch ;  the  thin  end  of  the  haft  is 
then  to  be  applied  to  the  top  of  the  incision,  in 
order  to  part  the  rind  from  the  wood,  which  is 
done  by  gently  lifting  the  top  and  running  the 
end  of  the  haft  downward  to  the  end  of  the  inci- 
sion. The  incision  being  made  for  the  reception 
of  the  bud,  the  next  thing  to  be  done  is  to  pre- 
pare the  bud,  by  placing  the  scion  in  the  left 
hand,  between  the  fore  finger  and  thumb,  with 
the  top  end  next  to  the  thumb.  The  knife  must 
then  be  taken  in  the  right  hand,  and  its  heel 
placed  half  an  inch  below  the  bud  intended  to  be 
taken  off;  it  is  then  to  be  carefully  drawn  up- 
wards half  an  inch  above  the  bud,  cutting  it  out, 
with  about  half  the  wood  and  bark — thus :  (Fig. 
4.)  This  being  done,  the  part  is  to  be  placed 
between  the  thumb  and  fore  finger  of  the  left 
hand,  and  the  rind  gently  pressed  back  with  the 


Fig.  2. 


Fig.  3. 


40 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


edge  of  the  knife;  when  the  wood  is  to  be 
pinched  between  the  thumb  and  knife,  and  di- 
vided from  the  rind  with  the  bud — thus :  (Fig. 
5.)  Having  the  bud  thus  prepared,  proceed  to 
insert  it  into  the  stock,  by  taking  it  by  the  strig, 
between  the  fore  finger  and  thumb,  and  pushing 
it  down  between  the  rind  and  wood  in  the  cavity 
made  by  the  haft  of  the  knife,  in  a  neat  and  snug 
manner — (Fig-  6.,)  This  done,  prepare  to  bind 
it  with  bass  mat,  soft  string,  or  other  kind  of 
tieing,  that  will  secure  it  in  its  proper  place,  and  Fig.  5. 
the  work  is  done — (Fig.  7.) 

Having  now  gone  through  the  principal  items 
of  the  practice  of  Inoculation ,  or  budding,  I  shall 
make  a  few  remarks  on  its  utility  and  successful 
treatment.  Budding  may  be  applied  to  almost 
every  kind  of  fruit  tree,  shrub,  and,  in  some  cases, 
to  roots,  as  the  Dahlia,  Pseony,  and  many  tuber- 
ous kinds.  But,  in  all  cases,  recourse  must  be 
had,  to  operate,  on  plants  of  the  same  family, 
or  little  success  may  be  expected ;  that  is  to  say, 
apples  must  be  budded  on  apple  trees,  or  wild 
crabs ;  cherries  on  the  cherry  tree ;  roses  on  the 
rose,  and  so  on.  There  are,  however,  exceptions 
to  this  rule,  for  I  have  seen  the  pear  budded  on, 
the  apple  tree,  and  do  tolerably  well,  in  some 
cases,  for  awhile,  although  the  trees,  in  this  case, 
are  generally  of  a  short  duration,  and  it  can  not, 
in  some  plants,  be  done  to  any  effect  whatever. 
One  great  point  in  budding,  is  to  have  the  stock  Fig-  7. 
and  bud  in  good  condition  at  the  time  of  the  operation;  thu 
young  wood  from  which  the  bud  is  to  be  taken  should  I  • 
well  ripened,  and  the  bud  and  rind  should  part  freely  from  the 
wood,  without  tearing  or  injuring  it;  the  rind  on  the  part  of 
the  plant  intended  to  receive  the  bud  should  also  part  freely, 
and  the  sap  should  follow  the  knife  when  the  incision  is  made. 


Fig.  6. 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PLANTS.          41 

Many  trees  and  plants  are  budded  when  they  are  not  in 
a  healthy  condition,  and  the  consequence  is,  that  they  will 
jnost  generally  be  only  disfigured,  and  the  bud  will  certainly 
perish.  There  are  many  persons  who  set  some  definite  lime 
for  budding  trees,  and  they  generally  choose  July  and  August. 
To  such  rules  I  cannot  subscribe,  because  different  kinds  of 
trees  even  require  a  different  season ;  for  instance,  the  pear 
may  be  budded  to  good  advantage  in  June,  whilst  the  peach 
should  be  deferred  to  September;  while  the  rose  may  be 
budded  any  time  from  May  until  October,  and  even  in  the 
winter,  if  the  bark  or  rind  parts  freely  from  the  wood.  Many 
persons,  also,  are  advocates  for  leaving  the  piece  of  wood  in 
the  bud  and  inserting  it  entire,  assigning  as  the  reason  for  do- 
ing this,  its  having  more  substance,  and  being  less  liable  to 
perish  by  drought.  I  have  never  been  satisfied  that  this  is 
any  improvement  on  the  old  mode  of  taking  out  the  wood; 
only  in  cases  where  buds  have  to  be  taken  off  too  young  or 
too  old,  when  the  rind  will  not  part  from  the  wood  without 
injuring  it.  When  the  wood  is  taken  out  from  the  bud,  it 
sets  closer  to  the  stock,  and,  besides,  it  is  more  in  its  natural 
position  than  when  the  wood  is  left  in,  which  is  of  no  use, 
and  leaves  a  cavity  between  the  alburmenoftlie  stock  and  the 
inner  part  of  the  rind  of  the  buds,  the  very  parts  where  the 
union  ought  first  to  take  place.  It  may  be  laid  down  as  a 
general  rule,  that  budding  is  the  best  when  done  in  moist, 
damp  weather,  as  the  rind  parts  freer  then,  and  the  buds  take 
better ;  and,  indeed,  the  morning  and  evening  are  better  than 
the  middle  of  the  day,  in  hot  weather. 


PART    II. 

MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  FLO WER  GARDEN,  AND  CULTURE 
OF  PLANTS— WITH  DESCRIPTIVE  LISTS. 


CHAPTER   I. 

On  the  Culture  of  Annuals  and  Biennials. 

ABT.  1. — Annual  Flowers. 

ANNUAL  plants  are  those  of  one  year's  duration  only,  and 
are  renewed  yearly  by  sowing  the  seed,  as  the  Lady's  slip- 
per or  Balsam,  the  China  aster,  Mignonette,  and  the  like. 

Annual  flowers  do  not,  in  many  cases,  receive  that  atten- 
tion they  really  merit,  which,  I  imagine,  is  chiefly  owing  to 
the  trouble  of  renewing  them  yearly  from  seed,  and  the 
proneness  of  most  kinds  to  depreciate  into  single  flowers  and 
inferior  qualities ;  however,  the  easy  and  speedy  manner  of 
growing  them,  and  the  pretty  effect  they  give  to  the  flower 
borders,  when  mixed  with  other  plants,  claim  for  them  a  place 
in  the  flower  garden.  Their  qualities,  like  all  other  flowers 
and  plants,  can  be  retained,  and,  in  many  cases,  even  im- 
proved by  attentive  management.  I  shall  therefore  proceed 
to  their  culture,  and  add  a  Descriptive  List  of  the  best  and 
most  appropriate  kinds  for  the  flower  garden. 

ART.  2. — Growing  Annuals  in  Hot  Beds,  for  Planting  out  early. 
To  have  annuals  flower  early,  the  seed  should  be  sown  on 
a  moderate  hot-bed  early  in  the  spring,  for  the  purpose  of 
42 


ON   THE   CULTURE    OF    ANNUALS    AND    BIENNIALS.  43 

transplanting  in  the  flower  bed  and  borders ;  for  this  pur- 
pose, prepare  a  hot-bed  in  the  beginning  of  March,  in  the 
following  manner.  Collect  two  good  cart-loads  of  hot  horse 
manure;  or,  if  of  equal  parts  of  leaves  collected  from  trees  in 
the  fall  and  horse  manure,  the  better ;  shake  it  up  and  mix  it 
well  together,  at  different  times,  until  it  gets  into  a  state  of 
fermentation,  which  will  be  in  a  few  days,  when  the  bed  may 
be  made  in  a  sheltered  situation;  if  protected  by  a  board 
fence,  the  better. 

Prepare  the  place  for  the  bed  by  taking  out  one  foot  deep 
of  soil,  a  foot  wider  at  each  side  and  the  ends  than  the  in- 
tended frame  is  in  size.  A  two-light  frame,  four  feet  in  width 
and  six  feet  in  length,  will  answer  a  good  purpose  ;  but  in  a 
small  garden,  a  frame  half  the  size,  with  half  the  portion  of 
manure,  will  answer. 

Having  the  place  prepared,  make  the  bed  by  shaking  the 
manure  well  together,  in  order  to  make  it  of  an  equal  texture, 
beating  it  down  with  the  back  of  the  fork  as  you  proceed — 
but  never  tread  it  with  the  feet,  which  is  the  cause  of  hot-beds 
settling  irregularly.  The  bed  being  made,  place  the  frame 
upon  it  immediately,  to  draw  up  the  heat,  cover  it  well  by 
night,  and  let  it  have  the  full  influence  of  the  sun  by  day,  until 
the  heat  rises,  when  the  bed  may  be  earthed  all  over  with 
about  six  inches  of  light,  rich  soil,  which  should  be  prepared 
previous  to  its  being  made :  half  rotten  leaf  mould,  or  ma- 
nure, and  half  mellow  loam,  will  answer  a  good  purpose  for 
compost. 

When  the  bed  is  earthed,  the  frame  may  again  be  closed, 
to  draw  the  heat,  and,  so  soon  as  it  rises,  the  seeds,  of  all 
kinds  of  annuals,  may  be  sown  in  shallow  drills,  and  lightly 
covered  with  fine  earth ;  care  must  be  taken,  in  this  part  of 
the  process,  to  give  air  sufficient,  by  night  and  by  day,  to  let 
off  the  steam  that  arises,  in  order  that  the  youri^f  plants  may 
not  damp  off,  or  be  too  much  drawn  in  a  weak  and  slender 
manner,  especially  when  the  heat  begins  to  rise  after  earthing 
the  bed,  which  will  be  in  a  few  days.  When  the  plants  have 


44  THE    FLOWER   GARDEN   COMPANION. 

come  up,  two  extremes  must  be  guarded  against,  namely:  to 
be  very  careful  that  the  young  plants  are  not  injured  by  the 
chill  of  night,  or  drawn  too  much  by  being  confined ;  the  heat 
of  the  bed  and  the  external  air  must  be  the  criterion  to  go  by: 
the  internal  air  of  the  frame  should  be  kept  as  near  as  pos- 
sible to  the  moderate  degree  of  fifty-five,  by  Fahrenheit's 
scale.  As  the  warm  weather  advances,  the  bed  may  have 
more  air  by  day  and  night,  and  be  treated  in  every  manner 
so  as  to  harden  the  plants  as  they  grow  in  size ;  and  finally, 
the  lights  may  be  left  off  night  and  day  previous  to  the  plants 
being  transplanted  in  the  garden,  which  maybe  done  with 
most  kinds  about  the  1st  of  May,  and  the  tender,  the  20th 
of  May.  But  where  annuals  are  wanted  to  be  very  early  in 
flower,  they  may  be  much  forwarded  by  transplanting  them 
out  from  the  seed  bed  into  another  frame,  an  inch  or  two 
apart,  and  then  transplanting  them  into  the  flower  garden 
when  the  weather  is  sufficiently  warm. 

ART.  3. — Sowing  the  Seed  in  the  natural  ground. 

The  seed  of  annual  flowers  may  be  sown  when  the  earth 
will  work  well,  which  will  be  from  the  middle  of  April  to  the 
beginning  of  May.  This  is  the  best  time  for  sowing  most 
kinds,  and  if  two  or  three  sowings  are  made  at  different  times, 
the  better  success  may  be  expected. 

Having  the  ground  well  dug,  or  broken  up  with  a  trowel, 
in  order  that  the  seed  may  germinate  freely,  prepare  to  sow 
the  seed  in  the  following  manner.  Make  a  small  circle,  with 
a  stick,  in  the  form  of  an  O,  about  eight  or  ten  inches  in  dia- 
meter, from  a  quarter  to  half  an  inch  in  depth ;  the  larger 
kinds,  as  the  Lupines,  &c.,  require  to  be  planted  an  inch  in 
depth ;  some  difference  must  also  be  made  according  to  the 
season  and  state  of  the  weather, — when  the  ground  is  dry, 
late  in  the  s&son,  seeds  should  be  sown  deeper  than  in  the 
early  part,  when  it  is  moist  and  mellow.  Great  care  must  be 
taken  to  cover  the  seed  very  lightly  with  fine  light  earth,  as 
the  young  plants  are  often  much  injured  in  making  their  way 


ON   THE    CULTURE   OF    ANNUALS   AND   BIENNIALS.          45 

through  the  surface.  If  the  weather  is  very  dry,  the  places 
where  the  seeds  are  sown  may  be  watered,  in  order  to  make 
them  vegetate  more  freely.  When  the  young  plants  are  an 
inch  or  two  high,  they  may  be  thinned  to  about  two  inches 
apart,  and  they  may  be  in  every  way  treated  as  other  plants, 
according  to  their  different  habits. 

In  sowing  annuals,  some  taste  will  be  required,  in  order 
that  they  show  to  a  good  advantage  when  in  flower.  In  some 
cases,  annuals  have  a  very  pretty  effect  when  they  are  sown 
in  beds  separately,  as  on  beds  made  in  grass  plats ;  and  even 
in  four  feet  lineal  beds,  the  bright  flowering  kinds,  as  Phlox 
JDmmmondii,  Larkspurs,  globe  tfmaranthus,  and  the  pretty 
China  Aster,  have  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  When 
mingled  with  the  different  kinds  of  shrubs  and  herbaceous 
plants  in  the  flower  border,  they  should  be  so  arranged,  that 
the  taller  kinds  are  placed  in  the  back  of  the  border,  and  the 
pretty  dwarf  kinds  are  brought  to  the  front,  near  the  eye. 
There  is  also  much  taste  required  in  placing  them,  so  as  to 
have  a  mingled  appearance  in  their  blossoming,  to  form  a 
pleasing  variety,  which  may  be  effected  by  referring  to  the 
Descriptive  List  affixed  hereto. 

In  forming  a  Descriptive  List  of  Annuals,  I  have  selected 
those  which  are  easily  cultivated,  and  are  suited  to  this  cli- 
mate. I  am  aware  that  there  are  several  pretty  varieties  that 
have  been  here  omitted,  owing  to  their  being  too  tender,  with 
common  cultivation ;  and  I  hope  the  list  here  following  will 
form  a  satisfactory  collection  to  those  who  are  desirous  to 
cultivate  them. 

ART.  4. — Descriptive  List  of  Annual  Flowers.* 
In  giving  a  List  of  Annual  Flowers,  I  have  divided  them 
into  three  classes,  namely,  tender,  less  tender,  and  hardy  ;  a 

*  The  list  presented  in  this  article,  includes  all  the  old  and  well  known 
varieties.  For  a  copious  descriptive  list  of  recently  introduced  annual 
flowers,  see  Appendix,  Art.  1. 


46  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

classification  which  will  at  once  give  the  cultivator  some 
knowledge  of  the  most  proper  time  of  sowing  the  different 
varieties,  and  whether  they  require  any  protection  or  not  in 
any  sudden  change  of  weather  that  may  occur  after  they  are 
planted  into  the  flower  borders  for  flowering.  I  have  omit- 
ted the  time  of  flowering,  which  it  would  be  an  arduous  task 
to  give,  in  annual  flowers,  as  they  will  flower  earlier  or  later, 
according  to  circumstances  and  seasons.  In  regard  to  colors, 
it  is  also  difficult  to  give  any  distinctive  character,  as  annual 
flowers  of  all  kinds  are  very  prone  to  depreciate  and  run  out, 
or  sport  from  their  variety  of  color;  indeed,  the  better  way 
of  giving  a  list  of  every  kind  would  be  under  the  head  of 
varieties;  however,  I  shall  in  a  certain  degree  follow  the 
general  rule  of  giving  the  proper  colors,  and  merely  point 
out  the  varieties. 


TENDER   AXSTALS. 

Amaranthus,  tree,  tricolor  and  bicolor. 

globe,  purple,  red,  white  and  striped. 

coxcomb,  com.  large  red,  scarlet,  yellow,  &c. 

common  dwarf,  of  colors. 

spike  flowered  coxcombs,  a  variety. 
Egg  Plant,  white,  yellow,  red  and  prickly  fruited. 
Ice  Plant,  or  diamond  ficoidas,  white  and  yellow  flowered. 

LESS    TENDER    A^XTTALS. 

Amaranthus,  bloody  leaved,  with  erect  flower,  purple. 

Aster,  China,  double,  white,  red,  purple,  brown,  striped,  &c. 

Basil,  common  sweet,  red  and  purple  flowered. 

Chrysanthemum,  double,  white  and  yellow,  plain  and  quilled. 

Convolvulus  major,  pink,  purple  and  deep  purple. 

India,  or  Chinese  pink,  single  and  double,  striped  variously. 

Love  lies  bleeding. 

Marigold,  African,  pale  and  deep  yellow,  plain  and  quilled. 

French,  yellow  and  crimson  striped,  velvety. 

dwarf,  sorts  of  both  African  and  French. 
Marvel  of  Peru,  white,  yellow,  red,  purple  and  variegated. 
Nasturtium,  yellow  and  orange  flower. 
Scabious,  sometimes  made  an  annual. 
Stock,  com.  ten  week,  red,  scarlet,  purple  and  white. 

dwarf,  French,  fine  scarlet,  and  varieties. 
Sweet  sultan,  yellow,  purple,  red  and  white  flowered. 
Xeranthemum,  or  eternal  flower,  yellow,  white,  violet  and  purple. 
Zinnia,  yellow  flowered,  and  red,  many  varieties. 


ON   THE    CULTURE   OF    ANNUALS   AND   BIENNIALS.  47 

HARDT    AJTXTJAtS. 

Adonis,  pheasant's  eye,  or  bird's  eye,  red  and  yellow. 
Alysson,  sweet  scented,  white  flowering. 
Candytuft,  white,  red,  crimson  and  purple. 
Caterpillar  plant,  yellow,  varieties. 
Catchfly,  LobeVs,  red,  purple  and  whits. 
Clary,  annual  pink,  purple  and  white  topped. 
Convolvulus  minor,  blue,  white  and  striped. 
Cyanus,  or  corn  bottles,  blue,  red.  purple,  white  and  striped. 
Devil  in  a  bush,  or  Lady  in  the  Green. 
Hawkweed,  red,  pale  and  deep  yellow. 
Keimia  bladder,  or  flower  of  an  hour,  yellow. 
Larkspur,  tall,  branching  and  rocket, 
dwarf  rocket,  of  varieties. 
Neapolitan,  branched  and  spotted. 
Lavatera,  or  Cretan  mallow,  red,  white  and  purple. 
Lupine,  sweet  scented,  yellow  flowered. 

common,  blue,  white  and  varieties. 

giant  blue,  and  rose  colored. 
Mjlkw,  curled  leaved  Syrian  and  Chinese,  pink. 
Marigold,  giant,  or  large  common  double. 

large  Cape,  leafy,  and  naked  stalked. 
French  and  African  varieties. 
Mignonette,  (trailing)  or  sweet  scented  reseda. 
Mulberry  bl:ght,  or  strawberry  spinach,  red  fruit 
Pea,  sweet,  purple,  scarlet,  white,  pink  and  white,  or  painted  lady. 
Persicarta,  oriental,  red  flowered. 
Poppy,  tall,  double,  purple,  scarlet,  carnations,  &c. 

dwarf,  or  corn  poppy,  double,  a  variety. 

chelidonium.  or  homed,  scarlet,  yellow. 
Snails,  hedge  hogs  and  horns,  yellow. 
Snapdragon,  annual  Sicilian,  white  flowered. 
Stock,  (maritime)  dwarf  annual,  or  Virginian. 
Sun  flower,  large  double,  pale  and  full  yellow. 

dwarf  double  ditto. 
Venus 's  looking  glass,  blue,  white  and  purple. 

naval  wort,  common  and  Portugal,  white. 

ART.  5. — Biennial  Flowers. 

Biennial  plants  are  those  which  flower  the  second  year 
after  planting  the  seed,  and  then  generally  perish ;  the  Fox- 
glove, and  Holly-hocks,  are  examples  of  this  class.  The  term 
biennial,  although  often  applied  to  many  kinds  of  plants,  is 
not  altogether  strictly  correct;  because,  many  of  them  will 
live  for  three  or  four  years,  and  some  kinds  are  prolonged  for 
several  years  by  propagation,  as  the  Double  Sweet  William, 
China  Pink,  or  any  kind  which  by  chance  produce  fine  kinds 


48       .    THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

from  seedlings  worth  the  attention  of  the  florist  to  prolong 
by  cultivation. 

Biennials  are  generally  hardy,  although  several  kinds,  as 
the  Campanula  grandiflora,  Fox-gloves,  Double  China  Pinks, 
and  Snapdragons,  are  worth  potting  in  the  fall,  and  protecting 
through  the  winter,  either  in  frames  or  the  green-house,  for 
early  flowering  plants  in  the  spring. 

Culture. — This  class  of  plants  is  generally  increased  by 
sowing  the  seed  in  the  spring,  in  small  patches,  in  the  flower 
borders,  or  in  rows  in  a  four  feet  bed,  where  the  young  plants 
may  remain  to  the  latter  end  of  August,  or  beginning  of  Sep- 
tember, or  so  soon  as  the  ground  is  sufficiently  moist,  after 
the  hot  months,  to  warrant  the  planting  them  out  for  final 
flowering  the  next  year.  This  may  be  done  either  by  plant- 
ing them  in  four  feet  beds,  in  the  place  where  they  are  to 
remain,  or  the  plants  may  be  planted  singly  in  the  flower 
border,  where  they  are  intended  to  remain  for  flowering. 
The  choice  kinds  of  Sweet  William,  China  Pink,  Snapdragon, 
and,  indeed,  any  fine  double  flowering  plants  that  are  worth 
saving,  may  be  prolonged  by  layering  down  the  young  shoots 
about  the  beginning  of  September,  and  taking  off  the  young 
plants  when  rooted,  and  planted  into  the  place  intended  for  their 
final  flowering  the  next  spring.  As  there  are  but  few  varie- 
ties of  this  class  of  plants,  I  shall  speak  of  them  separately  in 
this  place,  or,  at  least,  those  which  can  be  easily  cultivated  in 
the  flower  garden,  and  are  perfectly  hardy ;  those  of  a  tender 
kind,  which  are  often  cultivated  for  the  purpose  of  flowering 
in  the  green-house,  I  have  deferred  to  their  proper  place  in 
the  Miscellany. 

Columbine, — a  pretty  genus  of  plants,  many  of  whinh  are 
natives,  and  found  growing  on  rocky  situations  in  various 
parts  of  the  United  States,  and  highly  deserving  culture ;  the 
double,  or  garden  varieties,  are  of  various  colors,  from  white 
to  a  dark  purple,  and  easily  cultivated,  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
the  spring  and  planting  out  in  the  fall  among  the  herbaceous 
plants  in  the  flower  borders. 


ON   THE    CULTURE    OF    ANNUALS    AND    BIENNIALS.          49 

Fox-glove. — There  are  two  varieties  of  this  pretty  plant 
worth  cultivating,  the  purple  and  the  white,  which  should 
find  their  way  into  every  flower  garden. 

Honesty,  or  Satin  Flower,  a  pretty  dwarf  plant,  with  pur- 
ple flowers. 

Hollyhock. — This  noble  family  of  flowers  is  highly  deserv- 
ing a  more  general  cultivation,  and  should  be  carefully  culti- 
vated as  a  florist  flower.  There  are  many  superb  kinds  now 
to  be  found  at  the  seed  stores,  of  the  Chinese  variety,  which 
produce  fine  double  flowers,  of  every  hue  and  color,  from  a 
clear  white  to  a  dark  purple ;  many  of  which,  when  regularly 
grown  into  fine  double  flowers,  are  not  inferior  to  the  Double 
Dahlia. 

Snapdragon. — A  pretty  class  of  flowers,  of  various  colors, 
deserving  a  place  in  every  flower  garden. 

Canterbury  Bells — of  which  there  are  two  desirable  va- 
rieties, the  white  and  the  purple,  which  are  generally  to  be 
found,  and  are  pretty  flowers,  in  the  early  spring  flowering. 

Pinks,  Carnations,  and  Sweet  Williams,  are  also  deno- 
minated biennials,  although,  as  before  stated,  they  all  will  live 
and  flower,  sometimes  for  three  or  four  successive  years,  by 
increasing  them  by  layering,  cuttings,  and  dividing  the  roots. 
All  of  these  have  many  varieties  of  flowers,  which  can  gene- 
rally be  obtained  by  purchasing  the  seed  of  the  different 
seedsmen  in  various  parts  of  the  Union.  The  China  Pink, 
a  very  pretty  kind,  which  has  many  varieties  of  brilliant 
flowers,  is  particularly  desirable  for  cultivation. 


E 


CHAPTER   II. 

On  the  Culture  of  Perennials. 

ART.  1. — Perennial  Herbaceous  Plants. 

PERENNIAL  herbaceous  plants,  are  those  which  die  down  to 
the  root  yearly,  the  roots  of  which  remain  many  years ;  they 
are  exemplified  in  the  Phlox,  Paeony,  Golden  Rod,  Asters, 
and  many  other  kinds  of  native  plants. 

There  is  no  class  of  plants  more  deserving  general  culture 
in  the  flower  garden,  than  perennials ;  which,  when  once  in- 
troduced, require  but  little  attention;  their  increase  is  also 
of  the  most  encouraging  nature,  which,  in  most  varieties,  is 
simply  the  dividing  of,  or  parting  the  roots,  in  summer,  after 
they  have  done  flowering,  and  choosing  a  moist,  rainy  time 
for  the  operation,  in  order  that  they  may  readily  make  young 
roots,  and  become  well  established  before  winter.  By  this 
method,  perennial  plants  generally  flower  better  in  the  spring, 
than  in  the  most  general  method  of  planting  late  in  the 
fall  or  spring;  their  roots,  in  such  instances,  are  not  so  well 
established,  and  consequently  flower  weaker. 

Herbaceous  plants  may  be  divided  into  three  classes, 
namely:  Bulbous,  as  the  Tulip,  Hyacinth,  and  most  Lilies; 
Tuberons,  as  the  Dahlia  and  Pxony;  and  Fibrous,  as  the 
Perennial  Phlox,  Coreopsis,  Delphinium,  &c.  These  sepa- 
rate divisions  may  be  again  subdivided  into  hardy  and  tender, 
with  reference  to  the  different  climates  to  which  they  belong : 
for  instance,  among  bulbs,  Tulips  and  Hyacinths  are  hardy — 
the  Jacobean  Lily,  Mexican  Lily,  and  Gladiolus  Citycinus, 
are  tender ;  among  tuberous  roots,  the  Pseony  is  hardy,  and 
the  Dahlia  is  tender;  and  among  fibrous,  most  kinds  are 
hardy ;  (and,  indeed,  the  greater  portion  of  the  best  hardy 
perennial  plants  are  indigenous  to  this  country ;)  although,  in 
many  cases,  they  are  killed  in  the  winter  by  wet  saturating 
their  crowns,  when  left  bare  and  uncovered ;  it  is  therefore 

50 


ON   THE   CULTURE   OF   PERENNIALS. 


51 


necessary  that  they  should  be  partially  covered  in  the  win- 
ter, to  guard  them  against  being  injured  in  that  manner. 

In  planting  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  the  principal  object  to 
be  borne  in  mind,  is  their  height,  color,  and  time  of  flowering, 
in  order  that  they  may  be  so  distributed  in  the  beds  as  to  form 
a  pleasing  variety,  which  may  be  effected  by  referring  to  the 
Descriptive  List,  subjoined  hereto.  Care  should  also  be  taken 
that  the  plants  are  so  chosen  as  to  have  a  succession  of  flow- 
ers during  the  season.  This  may  be  greatly  facilitated  by 
cutting  down  a  part  of  the  young  shoots  of  Delphiniums, 
early  flowering,  Phlox,  &c.  to  the  ground,  about  the  time 
they  are  beginning  to  show  their  buds ;  by  this  method,  a 
succession  of  the  same  kind  of  flowers  may  be  kept  up  dur- 
ing the  season ;  those  which  are  cut,  being  deterred  from 
flowering,  make  a  second  growth,  and  come  into  flower  after 
those  of  their  natural  growth  have  exhausted  themselves. 


ART.  2. — Descriptive  List  of  Herbaceous  Perennial  Flowering  Plants. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name.     Color. 

Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

ACHILLEA. 

SWEEZEWORT. 

montana 

mountain              White 

1ft. 

August 

ACONITUM. 

ACOKITCM. 

japonicum 

Japan                   Blue 

6 

June,  Aug. 

album 

white                   White 

4 

July,  Aug. 

napcllus 

Monks-hood         Blue 

i 

May,  July. 

ACT^EA. 

ACTJBA. 

album 

white                   White 

3 

April,  June. 

AMSONIA. 

AMSOXIA.  N.  P. 

salicifolia 

Willow  leaved     Blue 

2 

May,  June. 

latifolia 

broad  leaved         Blue 

2 

May,  June. 

ANEMONE. 

AXZMOXE. 

Pulsatilla 

pasque  flower      Violet 

i 

April,  May. 

hepatica 
nemorosa 

common  hepatica  Blue 
double  white         White 

1 

April,  May. 
March,  May. 

ASCLEPIAS. 

SWALLOW  WORT.  N.  P. 

tuberosa 

tuberous  rooted     Orange 

2 

July,  Aug. 

incarnata 

flesh  colored         Purple 

2 

July,  Aug. 

decumbens 

decumbent            Orange 

2 

July,  Aug. 

ASTER. 

STAR-WORT. 

Nova  Anglicae 
amygdalinus 

New  England      Purple 
Almond  leaved    White 

6 
3 

Sept  Oct. 
July,  Oct 

THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Botanical  Name. 


English  Name.     Color.       Height.  Time  of  flowering. 


CAMPANULA.         BELL  FLOWER. 


azurea 
versicolor 
urticifolia 
persicifolia,  pi. 
urticifolia 
var.  alba 

CASSIA. 

marilandica 


azure  Blue 

various  colored  Striped 

nettle-leaved  Purple 

peach-leaved  White 

nettle-leaved  Blue 

double  white  White 

CASSIA.  N.  P. 

Maryland  Yellow 


CENTAUREA.  CENTAURY. 

nigra  Black  Knapweed  Purple 

CHELONE.  CHELONE. 

barbata  bearded  Red 

glabra  smooth  White 

Antwerpianus  Antwerp  P.  straw 

CLEMATIS.  VIRGIN'S  BOWER. 

integrifolia  entire-leaved         Blue 

erecta  upright  White 

alpina  Alpine  White 

angustifolia  narrow-leaved       Blue 

COMMELINA.  COMMELINA.  N.  P. 

virginica  Virginian  Blue 

CONVALLARIA.  LILT  OF  THE  VALLEY. 

majalis  major  White 

COREOPSIS.  COREOPSIS.  N.  P. 

grandiflora  large  flowering      Yellow 

ianceolata  lance-leaved 

auriculata  ear-leaved 

tenuifolia  slender-leaved 

CORONILLA.  CORONILLA. 

coronata  crown-headed 

var.  beautiful 
CYNOGLOSSUM.    HOUND'S  TONGUE. 

omphaloides  comfrey  leaved     Blue 

DELPHINIUM.  LARKSPUR. 

grandiflorum  great  flowered 

elatum  common  Bee 

chinense  Chinia 

barlowii  Barlow's 

DICTAMNUS.  FRAXINELLA. 

rubra  red 
albus  white 

DODECATHEON.   AMERICAN  COWSLIP. 

meadia  meadia  White 

DRACOCEPHALUN.  DRAGON'S  HEAD.  N.  P. 

denticulatum  toothed  Striped 

variegatum  variegated  Spotted 


Yellow 
Yellow 
Yellow 

Yellow 
Purple 


Blue 
Blue 
Blue 
Blue 

Red 

White 


2  ft.  July,  Aug. 
July,  Sept 
Aug. 

June,  July. 
July. 
July. 


Aug. 
May,  Aug. 

July,  Sept. 
July,  Sept 
July,  Sept. 

July,  Aug. 
July,  Aug. 
July,  Aug. 
July,  Aug. 

July. 
May,  July. 

July,  Aug. 
July,  Aug. 
July,  Aug. 
July,  Aug. 

June,  July. 
July. 

July,  Aug. 

Sept.  Oct. 
June,  Sept. 
June,  Sept. 
July. 

Aug. 
May,  June. 

April,  May. 

Aug.,  Sept 
Aug.,  Sept 


ON  THE  CULTURE  OF  PERENNIALS. 


53 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name.     Color.       Height.  Time  of  flowering. 

virginianum 

Virginian             Purple 

2ft. 

Aug.,  Sept. 

speciosum 

showy                   Pink 

2 

July,  Aug. 

ERYNGIUM. 

ERIXGO. 

planum 

flat-leaved             L.  Blue 

2 

Jury,  Sept 

EUPATORIUM. 

EUPATORIUM.  N.  P. 

coelestinum 

celestrial               Blue 

2 

Sept  Oct 

GEXTIANA. 

GEXTIAH. 

verna 

spring                   Blue 

i 

May. 

acaulis 

dwarf                   Blue 

I 

March,  April. 

catesbaei 

Catesby's             Blue 

1| 

July.  Sept 

saponaria 

soapwort              Blue 

2 

Aug.  Sept. 

GERANIUM. 

CRAKE'S  BILL. 

sylvaticum 

wood                     Blue 

I| 

May,  June. 

angulatum 

angular                 Purple 

1 

May,  June. 

HELIANTHUS. 

SUNFLOWER. 

divaricatus 

divaricate             Yellow 

6 

Aug.,  Oct. 

plenus 

double                  Yellow 

3 

Aug.,  Oct 

fHEMEROCALLIS 

.  DAT  LILT. 

Fleshy  rooted. 

Japonica 

white-flowered      White 

1 

Aug.  Sept 

ccerulea 

blue-flowered        Blue 

1 

July,  Aug. 

flava 

yellow                  Yellow 

2 

June,  July. 

HEPATIC  A. 

HEPATICA.  N.  P. 

triloba 

Early  Anemone  Purple 

* 

April,  May. 

HESPERIS. 

ROCKET. 

matronalis 

matronly              Purple 

4 

July,  Sept 

HIBISCUS. 

HIBISCUS. 

palustris 

marsh                    Pink 

4 

July,  Sept 

var.  albus 

white                    White 

3 

July,  Sept 

militaris 

military                Purple 

4 

July,  Sept 

HRIS. 

IBIS. 

Flesh  rooted. 

prismatica 

New  Jersey          Purple 

2 

May,  June. 

versicolor 

various  colored     Striped 

1 

May,  June. 

pumila 

dwarf                     Purple 

* 

April,  May. 

sibirica 

Siberian                L.  blue 

2 

May,  June. 

LATHYRUS. 

PERENNIAL  PEA. 

latifolius 

broad-leaved          Pink 

6 

July,  Sept. 

tuberosus 

tuberous                Red 

2 

July,  Aug. 

LIATRIS. 

LIATRIS. 

scariosa 

scarious  cupped    Purple 

3 

July,  Aug. 

pilosa 

hairy-leaved          Purple 

3 

July,  Aug. 

spicata 

long-spiked           Purple 

6 

Aug.,  Oct 

LOBELIA. 

LOBELIA. 

cardinalis 

Cardinal-flower    Scarlet 

3 

May,  Oct 

syphilitica 

blue-cardinal        Blue 

2 

May,  Aug. 

splendens 

splendid                Scarlet 

3 

May. 

fulgens 

fulgent                  Scarlet 

3 

May,  Sept 

E2 

THE    FLOWER   GARDEN   COMPANION. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color. 

Height.  ' 

rime  of  flower  in  j 

LUPIN  US. 

LUPINE. 

perennis 

perennial 

Blue 

2ft. 

May,  July. 

polyphyllus 

many-leaved 

B.  White 

3 

May,  July. 

LYCHNIS. 

LYCHXIS. 

chalcedonica 

scarlet 

Scarlet 

3 

June,  July. 

var.  pleno 

double  scarlet 

Scarlet 

3 

June,  July. 

var.  alba 

double  white 

White 

3 

June,  July. 

LYSIMACHIA. 

LOOSE-STRIFE. 

verticillata 

whorled 

Yellow 

3 

July,  Aug. 

ciliata 

ciliated 

Yellow 

3 

July,  Aug. 

stricta 

upright 

Yellow 

3 

July,  Aug. 

Nummularia 

Moneywort 

Yellow 

2 

July,  Aug. 

LYTHRUM. 

WILLOW  HERB. 

Salicaria 

common 

Purple 

4 

Aug. 

verticilatum 

whorl  leaved 

Purple 

3 

July,  Aug. 

MONARDA. 

MOXARDA. 

didyma 

Oswego  tea 

Blue 

3 

July,  Aug. 

clinopodia 

wild-basil-leaved 

P.  white 

2 

July. 

purpurea 

crimson 

Purple 

3 

June,  Aug. 

CENOTHERA. 

(E  \OTHKIIA. 

Fraseri 

Eraser's 

Yellow 

1 

May,  Oct 

PAPAVER. 

POPPY. 

orientate 

oriental 

Red 

3 

May,  June. 

bracteatum 

bracted 

Red 

3 

May,  June. 

PARDANTHUS. 

PARDANTHUS. 

chinensis 

Chinese 

Orange 

2 

June,  July. 

PENTSTEMON 

PEKTSTEMOIT. 

campanulatus 

bell-flowered 

It.  purple 

2 

March,  Oct. 

pubescens 

broad-leaved 

Purple 

2 

March,  Oct. 

angustifolius 
chandlerii 

narrow-leaved 
Chandler's 

L.  purple 
Purple 

2 
2 

July,  Sept 
March,  Sept. 

mackayanum 

Makay's 

Purple 

2 

March,  Sept 

pulchellum 

pretty 

Lilac 

2 

March,  Sept. 

coccineum 

scarlet 

Scarlet 

2 

March,  Sept. 

POTENTILLA. 

ClXaUEFOIL. 

formosa 

beautiful 

Red 

2 

May,  Sept 

atrosanguinea 

dark  crimson 

Puce 

2 

May..  Sept 

RUDBECKIA. 

RUDBECKIA. 

purpurea 

purple 

Purple 

4 

July,  Oct 

fulgida 

yellow 

Yellow 

2 

July,  Oct 

SAPONARIA. 

SOAPWORT. 

officinalis 

officinal 

White 

2 

July,  Aug. 

SAXIFRAGA. 

SAXIFRAGE. 

crassifolia 

thick-leaved 

Purple 

1 

May. 

SMIL  AX. 

SHILAX. 

herbacea 

herbaceous 

Green 

4 

July. 

ON   THE    CULTURE    OF    PERENNIALS. 


55 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color.    Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

SPIR.EA. 

SFIUJEA. 

Filipendula 

Dropwort 

White      2ft. 

June,  Oct. 

lobata 

lobed 

Red          2 

July,  Aug. 

ulmifolia 

elm-leaved 

White      3 

May,  June. 

flora  pleno 

double-white 

White      2 

May,  June. 

STATICE. 

SEA  LAVENDER. 

armenia. 

Pink         1 

July,  Aug. 

TRADESCANTIA. 

SPIDERWORT. 

virginica 

Virginian 

Blue         1 

May,  Oct. 

var.  alba 

white 

White      1 

May,  Oct. 

rosea 

rose-flowered 

Pink         1 

May,  Oct. 

TROLLIUS. 

GLOBE  FLOWER. 

europseus 

European 

Yellow     2 

May,  June. 

VALERIANA. 

VALERIAN. 

rubra 

red 

Red          3 

July,  Aug. 

VERBASCUM. 

MULLEIN. 

purpureum 

purple 

Purple      4 

July,  Aug. 

VERONICA. 

SPEEDWELL. 

gentianoides 

gentian-like 

Dark  blue  2 

May,  June. 

siberica 

Siberian 

Blue         3 

July,  Aug. 

hybrida 

Welsh 

Blue         2 

July,  Sept 

spicata 

spiked 

Blue         2 

July,  Sept 

latifoUa 

broad-leaved 

W.blue  2 

May,  June. 

Teucrium 

Germander-leaved 

L.  blue     2 

June,  Aug. 

VIOLA. 

VIOLET. 

odorata 
var.  alba 

sweet 
white-flowered 

Purple      1 
White        £ 

April,  May. 
April,  May. 

var.  plena 
grandiflora 

double-white 
great-flowering 

White        $ 
D.  blue      $ 

April,  May. 
May,  Aug. 

YUCCA. 

ADAM'S  NEEDLE. 

filamentosa 

thready 

White      3 

Sept 

gloriosa 

superb 

White      4 

Aug. 

ART.  3.— On  the  Culture  of  the  Phlox. 

This  beautiful  family  of  plants  are  mostly  indigenous  to 
this  continent,  and  are  the  pride  of  the  western  prairies  in  the 
spring ;  where  hundreds  of  acres  are  completely  covered  with 
their  lively  tinselled  blossoms.  Many  varieties  are  also  found 
in  the  state  of  Ohio,  near  the  vicinity  of  Cincinnati;  and 
several  pretty  dwarf  varieties,  as  the  Moss-pink,  grow  spon- 
taneously on  the  mountainous  parts  of  New  York  state,  and 
give  a  pleasing  effect  in  the  early  part  of  the  spring,  when 
few  other  plants  are  to  be  seen  in  blossom. 


56  THE   FLOWER   GARDEN    COMPANION. 

The  Phlox  combines  many  desirable  properties,  and  is 
admirably  adapted  to  the  American  flower  garden ;  the  roots 
being  perfectly  hardy,  are  easily  increased  and  cultivated.  It 
is  pleasing  and  various  in  the  color  of  its  blossoms,  and  con- 
tinues in  flower,  in  a  well  chosen  collection,  from  March  until 
late  in  the  fall.  To  what  state  of  perfection  the  Phlox  may 
attain  to,  time  alone  will  determine ;  although  it  is  very  rea- 
sonable to  suppose,  it  will  in  a  few  years  have  but  few  rivals, 
as  a  "  florist  flower,"  when  it  is  considered  how  readily  new 
varieties  are  obtained  from  seed,  in  conjunction  with  the  lively 
colors  of  the  flower,  and  its  natural  modification  of  petals  or 
flowers  approaching  the  desired  properties  of  a  florist  flower. 

Culture. — The  Phlox  may  be  increased  from  seed,  by 
which  new  varieties  may  be  obtained.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  early  in  the  spring,  either  in  patches  in  the  flower 
border,  or  in  drills,  for  the  purpose  of  transplanting,  either 
into  beds  or  to  be  mingled  in  the  flower  borders  for  final 
flowering.  The  young  plants  may  be  transplanted  so  soon 
as  they  have  three  or  four  rough  leaves,  which  will  generally 
be  about  the  beginning  or  middle  of  June ;  they  should  have 
every  encouragement  by  culture  to  make  them  grow  freely, 
and  by  this  means  they  will  flower  in  profusion  in  the  fall. 
To  this  method  may  be  added,  that  of  parting  the  roots  in 
September,  or  early  in  the  spring,  and  putting  out  cuttings 
of  the  young  shoots  in  the  month  of  May,  in  a  shady  situa- 
tion, which  will  be  well  rooted  and  ready  for  planting  out  in 
the  fall. 

Soil. — The  Phlox  will  flourish  in  almost  any  soil,  although 
a  rich  mellow  loam  answers  best;  and  in  it  the  plants  will 
flower  to  a  greater  perfection  than  in  a  poor  sandy  soil ;  it 
also  requires  a  free,  open  exposure ;  and  has  a  beautiful  effect 
when  planted  in  separate  beds,  in  a  grass  plat,  or  other  con- 
spicuous place,  near  the  dwelling. 

I  herewith  append  a  list  of  the  most  approved  varieties, 
which  can  be  obtained  of  most  of  the  florist  and  nurserymen 
in  different  parts  of  the  States. 


ON  THE  CULTURE  OF  PERENNIALS. 


57 


ART.  4. — Descriptive  List  of  Phlox. 


Dot.  Name.      English  Name. 
Acuminate   tall  purple 


Breck's  seedling 
Carter's  seedling 
small  flowered 
early  flowering 
spotted  stalls 


breckii 

carnea 

parviflora 

divaricata 

maculate 

pyramidalis  Pyramidal 

striata  striped 

purpurea       late  purple 

pyramidalis  white 

repens  creeping 

striatiflora     Carter's  striped 

stolonefera    creeping 

carnea  incarnate 

van  houtii 

verna 

youngii 

undulate 

brownii 

tardiflora 

subulate 

nivalis 

decussata 


Color.  Remarks. 

P.  purple  [Breck,  Boston, 

a    seedling    grown     by    Mr. 
raised  by  Mr.  Carter,  Boston. 


flowers  in  July, 
flowers  in  July ;  native, 
flowers  from  June  till  Sept. 


Incarnate 
Purple 
P.  purple 
D.  red 
Red 

Variegated 
Purple 
White 

Red  pretty  dwarf  early  variety. 

Variegated  splendid  variety. 
Red  flowers  in  April ;  of  dwarf,  low 

P.  red  [habit. 

Van  Route's  striped  Variegated  beautiful  variety. 


vernal  flowering 
Young's 
wave  leaved 
Brown's 
sweet 
moss  pink 
white  moss  pink 
decussate 
procumbens  procumbent 
scabra  rough  leaved 

Carolina       Carolina 
paniculate     panicled 
suaveolens    sweet  scented 
wheelerii       Wheeler's 
*  pictum       Carter's  pictured 


White         spring  flowering. 

Crim.  lilac  new. 

Red  middle  of  summer. 

Red  new. 

White         late  flowering  variety 

Pink  dwarf  early  flowering. 

Pure  white  dwarf  early  flowering, 

White 

Red 

Purple 

Br.  red 

Red 

Wrhite 

Purple 


flowers  in  July, 
late  flowering. 


flowers  hi  the  summer, 
new. 


Variegated  a  most  beautiful  variety. 


ABT.  5. — On  the  Culture  of  the  Paeonia. 

The  Pseonia,  or  Paeony,  so  called,  derives  its  name  from 
PEON,  (a  physician,  who  first  used  it  in  medicine) ;  it  forms 
one  of  the  noblest  families  of  plants  belonging  to  the  flower 
garden,  and  is  increasing  every  where,  by  the  attention  paid 
by  florists  in  raising  new  varieties  from  seed,  by  hybridizing 
of  the  finer  varieties  one  with  another.  This  family  forms 
two  separate  divisions  of  plants,  one  being  suflrutescent  or 
shrubby,  as  the  Tree-paeony;  and  the  other  herbaceous,  as 
the  common  red,  or  Crimson  Paeony,  well  known  in  almost 
every  flower  garden.  Within  these  few  years,  splendid  ad- 
ditions to  this  noble  flower  have  been  introduced  from  China,  , 


58  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

which  are  known  under  the  name  of  the  Chinese  Paeony,  as 
the  Moutan,  and  its  variety  of  the  Tree;  and  the  Fragrans, 
and  Whitlejiij  are  also  descendants  from  that  country.  There 
are  also  many  fine  varieties  from  Siberia,  Switzerland,  and 
the  Levant,  of  the  herbaceous  Paeony,  which  are  now  becom- 
ing numerous,  and,  like  the  rose,  give  many  shades  of  color, 
from  a  clear  white  to  a  deep  crimson,  and  in  some  varieties 
we  have  fragrance  also. 

The  herbaceous  Paeony  adapts  itself  to  a  variety  of  soil  and 
climate,  and  to  this  it  may  be  said  to  be  perfectly  hardy, 
bearing  our  most  severe  winters  without  the  least  injury;  the 
tree  Paeony  is  not,  however,  quite  so  hardy  as  the  herbaceous 
kinds,  although,  in  most  parts,  the  plants  may  be  secured 
from  the  frost  by  covering  the  wood  in  the  fall,  in  the  same 
manner  as  is  recommended  for  the  China  rose  and  tender 
shrubs.  This  beautiful  shrub  has  been  cultivated  in  the 
green-house  many  years,  and  is  at  this  time  one  of  the  best 
acquisitions  to  that  department.  It  has  also  a  very  pretty 
effect  planted  out  as  a  single  object,  in  small  grass  plats,  and, 
indeed,  the  herbaceous  kinds  answer  well  for  that  mode  of 
ornamenting  of  grass  plats  in  small  places. 

Culture. — The  Paeony  adapts  itself  to  any  soil,  although  a 
rich,  deep,  mellow  loamy  soil  is  the  best  for  it  to  flourish  and 
bloom  in  perfection  ;  when  once  planted,  it  requires  but  little 
attention,  only  to  cut  off  the  dead  leaves  in  the  spring ; — this 
is  often  improperly  done  immediately  after  the  flowering  is 
over,  which  greatly  exhausts  the  plants,  and  injures  the 
flowering  in  the  following  season. 

Propagation. — New  varieties  of  both  kinds  are  obtained 
from  seed,  which  may  be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  in  pots  of 
rich  mellow  soil,  and  well  attended  to  during  the  summer ; 
and  in  the  following  spring  the  young  plants  may  be  potted 
off,  (if  the  tree  variety,)  and  treated  as  green-house  plants,  in 
order  to  forward  their  flowering,  which  will  probably  be  three 
years  after  sowing  the  seed.  The  herbaceous  kinds  may  be 
planted  into  the  flower  borders,  where  they  may  remain  until 


ON  THE  CULTURE  OF  PERENNIALS.          59 

they  flower,  when  they  are  to  be  treated  precisely  the  same 
as  the  herbaceous  kinds  in  culture. 

Dividing  the  roots. — This  may  be  done  to  increase  the 
herbaceous  kinds  in  the  early  part  of  the  spring,  in  precisely 
the  same  manner  as  directed  under  the  head  of  "  Propagation 
of  Perennial  Tuberous  Roots" 

Grafting  the  tree  Pseony. — This  may  be  effected  by  in- 
serting the  young  shoot  of  the  tree  Pseonia  into  the  tuberous 
root  of  the  herbaceous  kind,  by  cutting  the  tuber  square  on 
the  top,  and  cleaving  the  root,  precisely  the  same  as  directed 
for  the  Dahlia,  and  inserting  the  graft,  cut  in  the  shape  of  a 
wedge,  which  see  under  the  proper  head  of  grafting.  To 
this  method,  I  add  an  extract  from  a  writer  in  London's 
Gardener's  Magazine,  who  gives  the  following  excellent  items 
on  propagating  of  Pseonia  Moutan. 

"  In  February,  select  any  of  the  stems  of  the  Paeonia 
Moutan,  or  all  may  be  used ;  and  at  the  distance  of  half  an 
inch  from  the  centre  of  each  bud,  both  above  and  below  it, 
cut  out  entirely  round  the  stem  a  small  ring  of  the  bark,  rather 
more  than  the  sixteenth  of  an  inch  wide,  in  the  manner  of 
common  ringing,  as  practised  on  fruit  trees.  Thus  every  bud 
will  occupy  one  inch  of  the  stem,  where  the  direct  continua- 
tion of  its  bark  is  obstructed,  both  above  and  below,  by  the 
rings  which  have  been  cut  out  of  it.  The  stems  so  prepared 
are  then  to  be  laid  horizontally  about  three  inches  beneath 
the  soil,  leaving  only  the  leading  bud  at  the  end  of  each 
branch  above  the  surface.  In  six  months,  every  bud  will 
have  made  a  vigorous  shoot,  and,  in  general,  will  have  two 
radical  fibres  at  its  base.  In  August,  remove  the  soil  from 
above  the  layers,  and  having  raised  the  newly  made  roots, 
carefully  separate  each  young  shoot  from  the  main  layer,  by 
passing  a  small  knife  from  one  ring  to  the  other,  cutting  out 
about  one-third  part  of  the  old  stem.  The  young  plants 
should  then  be  immediately  potted,  to  remain  till  they  are 
required  for  planting  out  in  their  final  situations.  After  thus 
gathering  the  first  crop  of  young  plants,  the  old  layers  should 


60          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

be  again  covered  with  good  soil,  and  left  as  before ;  and  in 
the  following  summer  a  second  and  greater  crop  of  plants  will 
be  produced  than  in  the  first  season,  and  what  is  most  re- 
markable, they  will  issue  from  various  parts  of  the  stem, 
where  no  trace  of  a  bud  was  previously  indicated. 

"  Again,  if  a  stem  be  detached  from  the  parent  plant  and 
treated  as  described  above,  and  then  laid  in  soil  in  a  pine  pit 
or  stove,  it  will  shoot  almost  as  freely  as  if  connected  with 
the  original  root. 

"In  another  experiment,  cuttings,  of  about  an  inch  in 
length,  were  made  of  the  Pceonia  Moutan  in  the  manner  of 
vine  cuttings,  having  one  bud  on  each,  and  about  half  of  the 
stem  behind  the  bud  slit  up,  and  the  pith  removed.  These 
were  put  three  inches  deep  in  pots  of  soil,  and  plunged  into 
an  exhausted  bark  bed,  having  a  temperature  of  about  60°. 
In  the  space  of  two  months,  these  cuttings  made  young 
shoots  through  the  soil,  and  grew  freely." 

Descriptive  List  of  Pseonias. 

In  forming  a  Descriptive  List  of  the  Pasonia,  I  have  se- 
lected those  varieties  that  can  be  obtained  of  most  florists, 
and  that  are  of  various  colors,  and  free  blooming  plants. 
There  are  many  new  varieties,  which  are  now  added  to  the 
list,  so  similar  to  those  already  described,  that  it  is  useless 
to  give  them  a  place  in  a  small  choice  collection ;  besides, 
they  are  very  difficult  to  obtain  at  moderate  prices. 
i  Hardy  Herbaceous  Pseonias  for  the  Flower  Borders. 

Botanical  Name.         English  Name.  Color.    Height.  Time  of  flowering. 


Whitlejii 

double  white 

White 

2ft. 

May,  June. 

Humei 

Hume's  double  crimson 

Red 

2 

May,  June. 

fragrana 

fragrant 

Red 

2 

May,  June. 

tartarica 

Tartarian 

White 

2 

May,  June. 

rosea 

roseate 

Red 

2 

May. 

tenuifolia 

fine-leaved 

Red 

2 

May. 

paradoxa 
albiflora 

paradoxical 
white  flowered 

Purple 
White 

2 
2 

May. 

May. 

officinalis 

officinal 

Red 

2 

May. 

Grevillii 
sibirica 

Greville's 
Siberian 

Purple 
White 

2 

2 

May. 
May. 

ON   THE    CULTURE    OF   SHRUBS   AXD   VINES. 


61 


Botanical  Name. 

Reevesii 

papaveriflora 

albiflora  sinensis 

Pottsii 

albiflora  siberica 

Andersonii 

anemoniflora 

fimbriata 


English  Name, 
double  crimson 
double  poppy  flowered 
white  Chinese 
Potts' 

single  Siberian 
Anderson's 
anemone  flower 
fringe  leaved 


Color.    Height.  Time  of  flowering. 

Crimson        l£ft.  May. 

White          2         May. 

White          2 

Db.  crimson  2 

White 

Blush 


2 
2 

Crimson       2 
Crimson       2 


May. 
May. 
May. 
May. 
May. 
May. 


Pseonia  Moutan,  or  Tree  Pseonias,  adapted  for  the  green- 
house or  flower  garden.-—' 


Botanical  Name. 

Arborea 

papaveracea 

rosea 

Banksise 

Banksiae  palida 


English  Name, 
tree 
poppy  flowered 


Banks' 

large  double  red 


Banksiae  expansi  expanded  Banks' 


Color. 
Purple 
White 
Pink 
Pink 
Eed 
Blush 

Height. 
3ft. 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 

Time  of  flowering. 
April,  May. 
April,  May. 
April,  May. 
April,  May. 
April,  May. 
April,  May. 

CHAPTER   III. 


On  the  Culture  of  Shrubs  and  Vines. 

ART.  1. — Shrubs. 

SHRUBS  are  either  deciduous  or  evergreen;  the  former  are 
exemplified  in  the  Lilac,  Double-lowering  Almond,  and 
Snow-berry ;  the  latter,  in  the  Kalmia,  or  American  Laurel, 
and  those  plants  that  are  always  clothed  with  leaves, — and 
hence  the  name  evergreen. 

Shrubs  may  be  considered  as  the  lower  order  of  trees. 
They  are  a  very  useful  class  of  plants  for  the  flower  garden, 
and  are  especially  adapted  for  the  embellishment  of  side  en- 
trances, and  many  parts  about  town  and  country  residences. 
In  the  parterre,  or  small  flower  garden,  they  form  a  prominent 
feature,  where  they  are  planted  in  the  centre  of  flower  beds 
and  borders ;  in  other  cases,  they  form  good  facing  to  the 

F 


02  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

larger  kinds  of  trees  that  are  planted  as  belts  on  the  margin 
of  flower  gardens  and  ornamental  grounds. 

There  are  few  countries  that  possess  a  better  collection  of 
native  shrubs  than  the  United  States ;  and,  indeed,  in  Europe 
the  first  consideration,  on  laying  out  flower  gardens  and  ex- 
tensive grounds,  is  to  prepare  a  piece  of  ground  purposely  for 
the  American  flower  garden.  However,  the  native  shrubs 
and  plants  are  much  neglected  in  culture  here,  which,  I 
imagine,  is  chiefly  owing  to  their  being  considered  too  com- 
mon, while  those  plants  which  are  brought  from  foreign 
countries  are  highly  prized.  Whatever  may  be  the  opinion 
of  others,  I  cannot  conceive  that  their  being  natives  of  this  or 
that  country  can  in  any  wise  affect  the  real  worth  of  flowers 
and  plants,  which  in  themselves  are  beautiful  to  every  be- 
holder, and  are  intended  by  Providence  as  natural  embellish- 
ments. It  is  their  finely  woven  texture  and  rich  coloring, 
that  should  engage  our  admiration,  and  not  the  country  which 
has  given  birth  to  any  particular  variety.  I  hope,  therefore, 
that  in  future  the  many  pretty  varieties  of  native  shrubs  and 
plants  will  find  a  place,  and  be  cultivated,  in  the  shrubbery 
and  flower  garden,  where  they  can  with  every  propriety  be 
introduced  to  a  good  purpose.  Indigenous,  or  native  plants, 
having  qualities  adapted  to  the  country,  will  assume  a  most 
pleasing  character,  and  be  much  improved  by  culture. 

In  planting  shrubs,  like  herbaceous  and  all  other  kinds  of 
plants,  the  general  rule  must  be,  to  place  them  as  much  as 
possible  in  their  most  appropriate  situation.  For  instance, 
the  pretty  dwarf  varieties,  as  the  Mezeron,  and  Double- 
flowering  Almond,  are  the  most  appropriate  for  small  flower 
beds,  and  the  facing  of  the  shrubbery;  the  taller  kinds,  as  the 
Lilac,  are  generally  planted  to  cover  unsightly  objects,  old 
boarded  fences,  and  the  like. 

Propagation. — Most  kinds  of  shrubs  are  easily  increased, 
by  taking  th«  suckers  from  the  parent  plants,  as  they  are 
generally  prone  to  give  out  suckers  from  their  roots ;  all  the 
free  growing,  soft  wooded  kinds,  may  be  propagated  by 


ON  THE   CULTURE   OF   SHRUBS  AND   VINES.  63 

cuttings,  as  recommended  under  their  proper  heads,  "  on  the 
Propagation  of  Plants;"  and  many  kinds,  as  the  slender 
growing  varieties,  do  well  by  being  layered ;  which  see, 
under  the  head  of  u  Layering  of  Plants." 

In  giving  a  Descriptive  List  of  Shrubs,  I  have  divided 
them  into  two  classes — the  dwarf,  and  the  tall,  and  have 
given  their  height,  color,  and  time  of  flowering,  as  near  as 
possible,  on  a  medium  scale,  with  reference  to  soils  and  loca- 
tion, where  they  are  generally  to  be  found  growing  as  orna- 
mental plants. 


ART.  2.— Descriptive  List  of  Dwarf  Hardy  Shrubs. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name.        Color.    Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

AMYGDALIS. 

DOUBLE-FL.  ALMOND. 

pumila 

double-dwarf            Red           3  ft. 

May. 

AZALEA. 

AMERICAN  HONET  SCCKLE.  N.  P. 

nudiilora 

naked-flowered         Pink         3 

May,  June. 

viscosa 

clammy                    White      3 

July,  Aug. 

calendulacea 

marigold-like           Orange     4 

May,  June. 

alba 

early  white               White      3 

May,  June. 

CALYCANTHUS. 

SWEET  SCENTED  SHRUB.  N.  P. 

floridus 

Carolina                   Purple      5 

May,  Aug. 

laevigatus 

smooth-leaved           Purple      6 

May,  July. 

CLETHRA. 

CLETHRA. 

alnifolia 

alder-leaved              White       5 

Aug.,  Oct 

COLUTEA. 

BLADDER  SENNA. 

arborescens 

com.  arborescens      Yellow      6 

July,  Aug. 

pocockii 

Pocock's                  Yellow     6 

June,  Aug. 

CORONILLA. 

COHONILLA. 

Emerus 

Scorpion  Senna       Red           3 

May,  June. 

CORCHORUS. 

JAPAN  GLOBE-FLOWER. 

japonicus 

Japan                   .     Yellow     5 

July,  Oct. 

DAPHNE. 

DAPHNE. 

Mezereum 

Mezeron                   Purple      3 

April,  May. 

var.  album 

white                        White      3 

April,  May. 

DEUTZIA. 

DECTZIA. 

scabra 

rough-leaved             White      4 

May,  June. 

HYDRANGEA. 

HYDRANGEA.  N.  P. 

quercifolia 

oak-leaved                W.  green  3 

June,  Sept 

radiata 

ray-leaved                 White      4 

July,  Aug. 

HYPERICUM. 

ST.  JOHN'S  WORT. 

Kalmianum 

Kalmi's                    Yellow     3 

July,  Aug. 

frondosum 

leafy                          Yellow      3 

July,  Aug. 

64 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name.         Color.    Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

LONICERA. 

LONICERA. 

tartarica 

Tartarian                  Pink       10 

April,  May. 

Xylosteum 

Fly-honeysuckle       Yellow     8 

T 

June. 

italica 

Italian  early  white    White       6 

April. 

canadensis 

Canadian                  White      6 

April. 

PHILADELPHUS. 

SYRISTGA. 

coronaria 

garland                     White      6 

July,  Aug.- 

variegatus 

variegated                 White      4 

July,  Aug. 

grandiflorus 
inodorus 

large-flowered           White      3 
scentless                   White       6 

July,  Aug. 
June,  July. 

nanus 

dwarf                        White      2 

June,  July. 

POTENTILLA. 

SHRUBBT  CIJTCITTEFOII.. 

fruticosa 

trifoil-leaved             Yellow     3 

July,  Aug. 

PYRUS. 

PYRUS. 

japonica 

Japan                       Purple      4 

April,  May. 

alba 

white                        White      4 

April,  May. 

EHODORA. 

RHODORA.  N.  P. 

canadensis 

Canadian                  Purple      3 

April,  May. 

ROBINIA. 

ROBIXIA. 

hispida 

Rose  acacia              Pink         6 

May,  Sept. 

RIBES. 

MISSOURI  CURRANT.  N.  P. 

aureutn 

fragrant                    Yellow     6 

April,  June. 

RUBUS. 

BRAMBLE. 

odoratus 

flowering                  Red           6 

June,  Aug. 

SPIRAEA. 

SPIRJEA.  N.  P. 

sorbifolia 

pinnated                   White      4 

Aug. 

opulifolia 

Guelder-rose  leaved  White      5 

June,  Aug. 

hyperci  folia 

Italian  May  flower  White       6 

May,  June. 

chamsedrifolia 

Germander-leaved    White       2 

June,  Aug. 

trilobata 

three-lobed                White       3 

June. 

laevigata 

smooth-leaved           Red           4 

May,  June. 

salicifolia 

willow-leaved           Pink         5 

June,  Aug. 

tomentosa 

tomentosa                 Pink         5 

Aug.,  Sept. 

STAPHYLEA. 

BLADDER  NUT.  N.  P. 

trifoliata 

three-leaved              White      6 

May,  June. 

SYMPHORIA-. 

ST.  PETER'S  WREATH.  N.  P. 

glomerata 

common                    Pink         4 

Aug.,  Sept. 

racemosa 

Snowberry                Pink         3 

July,  Aug. 

variegata 

variegated                                  3 

July,  Aug. 

SYRINGA. 

LlLAC. 

purpurea 

purple-flowered         Purple      8 

May,  June. 

persica 

Persian        -             Purple      4 

May,  June. 

var.  alba 

white                        White      4 

May,  June. 

alba 

white                        White      5 

May,  June. 

chinensis 

Chinese                     Violet       4 

May,  June. 

ON   THE   CULTURE    OF    SHRUBS   AND   VINES. 


65 


ART.  3. — Descriptive  List  of  Tall  Shrubs,  and  Dwarf  Ornamental  Trees. 

[  Those  marked  thus  *  are  used  for  single  ornamental  objects  on 

lawns.  &c.] 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color. 

Height.  ' 

Time  of  floweri 

^ESCULUS. 

HORSE  CHESSTUT. 

*coccinea 

scarlet 

Scarlet 

10 

June,  July. 

parviflora 

small-flowered 

White 

•  10 

June,  July. 

variegatum 

striped-leaved 

White 

16 

April,  May. 

AMORPHA. 

BASTARD  IJTDIGO. 

fruticosa 

shrubby 

Purple 

10 

June,  July. 

CORNUS. 

DOGWOOD. 

florida 

large-flowered 

White 

15 

April. 

sanguinea 

blood-red 

White 

8 

June,  July. 

CRATJEGUS. 

HAWTHORN. 

pleno 

double 

White 

10 

June. 

*monogynia 

one-styled 

White 

10 

June. 

*coccinea 

scarlet-fruited 

White 

20 

June. 

EUONYMUS. 

SPIXDLE  TREE.  N. 

P. 

*americanus 

Burning  bush 

Pink 

10 

June,  July. 

*fructu  albo 

white-fruited 

White 

10 

June,  July. 

*atropurpurea 

purple-fruited 

Purple 

10 

June,  July. 

FAGUS. 

BEECH. 

•purpurea 

purple-leaved 

15 

*cuprea 

copper-leaved 

18 

FRAXINUS. 

ASH. 

*pendula 

weeping 

8 

HALISEA. 

SNOWDROP  THEE. 

NP. 

tetraptera 

four-winged 

White 

6 

April,  May. 

HIBISCUS. 

HIBISCUS. 

syriacus 

althea  frutex 

Purple 

8 

Aug,  Sept. 

rubro  pleno 

double  red 

Dark  red 

8 

July,  Sept 

albo  pleno 

double  white 

White 

8 

July,  Sept 

variegatus 

striped  double 

Striped 

8 

Aug.  Sept. 

LIGUSTRUM. 

PRIVET. 

vulgare 

striped-leaved 

White 

8 

June,  July. 

variegatus 

sweet  scented 

White 

8 

June,  July. 

MAGNOLIA. 

MAGNOLIA. 

glauca 

sweet  scented 

White 

8 

April. 

purpurea 

purple 

Purple 

8 

June. 

Thompsonia 

Thomson's 

White 

20 

June. 

SALIX. 

WILLOW. 

caprea 

great  round-leaved 

12 

pentandra 

Bay-leaved 

12 

pendula 

weeping 

20 

SHEPERDIA. 

BUFFALO  TREE.  N 

.P. 

eleagnoides 

silver-leaved 

White 

12 

April. 

SPARTIUM. 

BROOM. 

gcoparium 

common 

Yellow 

6 

May,  June. 

6 

F2 

THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Botanical  Name. 
SOPHORA. 

English  Name. 

SOPHORA. 

Color. 

Height. 

Time  of  flower 

japonica 

japonicurn 

VIBURNUM. 

opulus 
oxycoccus 

S.  VOW  BALL. 

Guelder  rose 
cranberry-like 

White 
White 

10 
12 

May,  June. 
July. 

ART.  4.— Hardy  Running  Vines,  for  covering  Arbors,  &c. 

The  Honeysuckle,  and  Clematis,  are  examples  of  running 
vines  that  are  useful  for  the  covering  of  arbors,  trellises, 
walls,  and  the  like.  Vines  are  readily  propagated  by  layers 
and  cuttings,  which  see,  under  the  head  of  Propagation. 

Spring  pruning  and  dressing  Vines. — All  kinds  of  hardy 
vines  may  be  pruned  in  the  spring,  in  a  regular  manner,  by 
cutting  out  all  the  dead  branches,  and  regulating  the  remainder 
in  such  a  manner  that  they  may  be  at  an  equal  distance  apart, 
when  they  are  to  be  nailed  with  shreds  of  woollen  or  leather, 
or  tied  in  a  neat  manner  with  bass  or  other  string. 

Summer  pruning. — The  summer  pruning  may  be  com- 
menced so  soon  as  the  young  shoots  are  grown  six  or  seven 
inches,  by  thinning  them  out  in  such  a  manner  that  they  are 
at  an  equal  distance  apart,  and  allowing  room  for  their  future 
growth.  The  young  shoots  should  afterwards  be  regularly 
attended  to  during  the  summer,  in  pruning  off  all  superfluous 
wood,  and  training  the  remainder  in  a  neat  manner — not  too 
thickly  together,  which  is  often  the  case,  and  by  which  they 
are  often  much  injured. 

ART.  5. — Descriptive  List  of  Hardy  Vines. 
Botanical  Name.         English  Name.  Color.        Height.  Time  of  flowering. 


BIGNONIA. 

TRUMPET  FLOWER. 

rad  leans 

ash-leaved 

Orange 

30 

July,  Aug. 

major 

large-leaved 

Orange 

30 

July,  Aug. 

CLEMATIS. 

VIRGIN'S  BOWER. 

virginica 

Virginian 

G.  white 

15 

June,  Aug. 

flamula 

sweet-scented 

White 

15 

July,  Oct. 

verticilata 

American 

Purple 

15 

Mav,  June. 

sieboldi 

Siebold's 

W.  purple 

15 

May,  Sept. 

Californica 

white 

White 

15 

May. 

ON   THE    CULTURE   OF    SHRUBS   AND   TIXES.  67 

Botanical  Name.          English  Name.  Color.       Height.  Time  of  flowering. 


GLYCINE.             GLTCIXE. 

trutescens                  shrubby                     Purple 

15 

June,  Sept. 

Apios                       tuberous-rooted         Pink 

IS 

Aug.,  Sept 

CAPRIOFOLIUM.  HONEYSUCKLE. 

Periclymenum         English  woodbine    Red 

18 

June,  Sept 

variegatum               var.  woodbine           Red 

15 

June,  July. 

sempervirens            tnimpet                    Scarlet 

18 

May,  Aug. 

Fraseri                     Yellow-trumpet       Yellow 

20 

May,  July. 

rubrum                    red-flowered             Red 

15 

May,  July. 

flexuosa                    evergreen                 Red 

15 

May. 

ART.  6. — On  the  Culture  of  Evergreen  Shrubs.* 
Evergreen  Shrubs  are  those  plants  which  are  continually 
green,  and  are  of  two  denominations ;  one  of  which  form 
pretty  families  of  flowering  shrubs,  as  the  Kalmia,  or  Ameri- 
can Laurel;  and  the  other  division  consists  of  ornamental 
plants,  to  give  a  variety  among  the  deciduous  shrubs,  as  the 
Arbor  Vitse^  Juniper,  and  the  like.  Evergreen  shrubs  are  a 
very  desirable  class  of  plants,  and  are  admirably  adapted  to 
mingle  in  the  shrubbery  ;  or  some  of  the  neat  growing  kinds 
may  be  planted  to  a  good  advantage  to  form  screens,  and 
evergreen  fences,  either  for  the  purpose  of  shading  and  pro- 
tecting tender  plants  in  winter,  or  in  summer.  They  are  also 
used  to  a  good  purpose  to  conceal  unsightly  objects  near  the 
dwelling,  or  to  form  fences  for  boundary  lines ;  and  in  some 
cases  they  may  be  planted  to  a  good  purpose  as  single  objects 
on  grass  plats  or  lawns ;  but  in  this  case,  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  over-do  the  thing  by  having  too  many,  which  gives  a 
heavy  appearance^  where  a  lively  contrast  is  required.  The 
taller  kinds  are  also  admirably  adapted  to  forming  clumps  on 
lawns,  or  extensive  grass  plats,  which  give  an  excellent  effect 
in  the  winter,  besides  being  in  harmony  with  good  taste. 

Culture. — Most  kinds  of  evergreens  are  readily  propagated 
by  seed,  which  may  be  sown  on  a  rich,  moist  piece  of  ground 

*  For  a  general  treatise  on  the  Propagation  and  Culture  of  Evergreens, 
I  refer  the  reader  to  an  article  in  a  Manual  on  Live  Fences  and  Ornamen- 
tal Plantations,  which  will  form  a  good  appendage  to  this  book. 


68  THE    FLOWER   GARDEN   COMPANION. 

early  in  the  spring.  The  spot  selected  for  this  purpose 
should  be  partially  shaded  from  the  mid-day  sun,  which  often 
scalds  the  young  plants  in  the  summer  months.  The  ground 
may  be  prepared  in  the  usual  way  for  sowing  seed,  and  the 
seed  may  be  sown  in  shallow  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  The 
young  plants  will  require  to  be  kept  in  good  order  during  the 
summer,  and  should  be  watered  in  dry  weather,  in  order  to 
keep  them  in  a  growing  state.  In  the  following  spring,  the 
seedling  plants  may  be  transplanted  on  a  well  prepared  piece 
of  ground  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  six  inches  in  the 
rows,  where  they  may  remain  until  their  final  planting  into 
the  place  assigned  for  them. 

Planting  of  evergreens  requires  to  be  carefully  done,  in 
order  to  succeed  well ;  indeed,  there  are  more  evergreens  lost 
by  mismanagement  in  planting  than  any  other  class  of  plants. 
In  the  first  place,  no  evergreen  ought  to  be  out  of  the  ground, 
but  a  very  short  time,  unless  the  roots  are  taken  up  with  a 
ball  of  earth,  which  should  be  wrapped  round  with  old  mats, 
or  cloth  of  some  kind,  in  order  to  keep  them  compact  toge- 
ther. When  the  roots  of  any  kind  of  evergreen  are  laid  bare 
for  several  days,  they  are  almost  certain  to  die,  and  from  this 
cause  alone  we  see  so  many  dead  plants,  which  have  been 
purchased  at  the  market,  and  elsewhere,  that  have  been  pro- 
cured from  dry  locations,  and  the  roots  have  been  deprived 
of  earth  or  laid  bare  in  taking  from  the  ground.  The  best 
time  for  planting  is  early  in  the  fall,  as  at  that  time,  if  this 
business  is  well  done,  the  plants  will  make  young  fibrous 
roots,  and  be  established  in  the  ground  before  winter.  A 
moist,  rainy  time  should  be  chosen  if  possible,  and  the  holes 
should  be  dug  before  taking  the  plants  from  the  ground,  when 
they  may  be  taken  immediately  from  the  nursery  and  planted 
in  them,  in  order  to  succeed ;  and  by  taking  these  precau- 
tions, planting  of  evergreens  is  a  very  safe  and  easy  business. 
The  distributing  and  planting  will,  of  course,  depend  on  cir- 
cumstances before  named.  I  shall,  therefore,  proceed  to  give 
a  list  of  the  best  varieties  for  this  purpose. 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST    FLOWERS. 


ART.  7. — Descriptive  List  of  Evergreen  Shrubs. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color.    Height.  Time  of  flowering. 

KALMIA. 

AMERICAN  LAUREL.  (Flowering  plants.)  N.  P. 

latifolia 

broad-leaved 

Red            6         May,  July. 

angustifolia 

narrow-leaved 

Red             3         May,  July. 

RHODODENDRON 

maximum 

.  ROSE  BAT.  {Flowering  plants.) 
Mountain  laurel       Pink         10        June,  Aug. 

ponticum 

Pontic 

Purple        6         May,  June. 

punctatum 

dotted  stalk 

Pink           6        June,  Aug. 

BUXUS. 

BOX-TREE. 

arborescens 

tree-box 

White        6        May. 

variegata 

variegated 

White        8        May. 

JUNIPERUS. 

JUNIPER. 

suceica 

Swedish 

White      15        May. 

virginiana 

red-cedar 

20         May. 

prostrata 

creeping 

3         May. 

sabina 

savin-tree 

5         May,  June. 

ARBOR  VITJ3. 

THUJA. 

occidentalis 

American 

White      18        May. 

orientalis 

Chinese 

White      18        May. 

CHAPTER   IV. 


Culture  of  Florist  Flowers. 

ART.  1. — On  the  Culture  of  the  Dahlia.    . 

THE  botanical  name  Dahlia,  was  given  to  this  genus  of 
plants  in  honor  of  Dahl,  a  Swedish  botanist,  by  Cavanilles,  a 
Spanish  botanist,  and  "  is,  (says  Paxton,)  a  native  of  the  high 
sandy  plains  of  Mexico,  where  it  was  first  discovered  by  that 
eminent  and  indefatigable  botanist,  Humboldt,  five  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  but  in  what  year  we  have  no 
authentic  accounts.  There  are  three  distinct  species  of  this 
genus :  D.  coccinea,  D.  Cervantesii,  and  D.  variabilis;  of 
which  the  two  former  are  not  now  cultivated,  as  they  do  not 
readily  sport  into  varieties,  and  are  much  less  beautiful  than 
D.  variabilis,  from  which  latter  all  the  innumerable  varieties 
at  the  present  time  known  to  our  collections  have  emanated." 


70  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Dahlia  is  generally  encouraging  to 
the  lovers  of  floriculture,  and,  when  well  understood,  is  very 
simple  in  its  operations ;  adapting  itself  to  more  variations  of 
soil  and  location,  in  favorable  seasons,  than  any  other  family 
of  plants  that  claims  so  general  admiration.  Nor  does  a  dif- 
ferent kind  of  soil  act  so  materially  on  its  well-being,  as  on 
many  kinds  of  plants,  which  are  partial  in  their  nature,  and 
will  only  flourish  in  their  peculiar  soil  and  location.  But 
should  the  season  prove  unpropitious,  the  most  unremitting 
and  scientific  exertions  of  the  cultivator  cannot  counteract  its 
effect  on  the  flowering ;  although,  in  some  cases,  good  culture 
will  greatly  assist  the  process.  The  most  unpropitious  sea- 
son to  the  Dahlia,  in  this  climate,  is  a  long  continuance  of 
drought  in  the  months  of  July  and  August;  for  when  this 
occurs,  the  growth  of  the  young  shoots  is  impeded  so  that  the 
flower  buds  cannot  unfold  and  develop  ;  but  are  impoverished 
in  their  embryo  state  in  the  shoots,  which  are  consequently 
converted  into  a  hard,  woody  substance,  in  order  to  bear  the 
extreme  dry  season.  In  this  case,  it  is  not  until  the  cool 
nights  of  the  fall  months  that  the  Dahlia  can  make  the  proper 
shoots  for  flowering ;  and  this  often  happens  so  late,  that  the 
entire  stalk  is  killed  by  the  frost  before  flowering  commences. 
The  most  favorable  locations  in  such  seasons  are  on  the  bor- 
ders of  rivers,  lakes,  or  large  sheets  of  water,  that  afford  a 
humid  atmosphere  in  the  mornings  and  evenings  of  hot  sultry 
weather ;  for  there  is  no  plant  of  the  flower  garden  that  is 
more  benefited  by  a  humid  atmospheric  air  than  the  Dahlia. 

So  far  as  my  experience  has  been  in  regard  to  location,  I 
have  found  that  a  free  exposure  is  the  best;  for  when  the 
Dahlia  is  grown  in  a  confined,  shady  situation,  the  plant  is 
generally  drawn  slender,  and  the  flowers  produced  are  thin 
of  petals,  and  do  not  possess  the  bright,  vivid  color,  as  when 
fully  exposed.  But  care  must  be  taken  to  plant  the  Dahlia 
where  it  is  sheltered  from  the  north  and  north-west  winds,  by 
which  the  plants,  when  in  a  growing  state,  are  often  blown 
down  and  injured, 


CULTURE   OF    FLORIST   FLOWERS.  7l 

Propagation. — There  are  various  methods  of  increasing 
the  Dahlia,  as  by  seed,  cuttings,  dividing  the  roots,  and  by 
grafting.  To  obtain  new  varieties,  florists  have  recourse  to 
the  saving  of  seed  from  their  best  varieties,  approaching  the 
nearest  qualifications  to  such  varieties  as  those  which  it  is 
their  object  to  raise  for  a  new  variety,  having  something  dif- 
ferent in  color  or  variety  from  those  already  in  being ;  those 
kinds  are  then  denominated  seedlings,  or  new  Dahlias,  and 
are  named  by  the  person  who  first  produces  them,  as,  for  in- 
stance, Sayers'  General  Harrison,  Young's  alba  purpurea, 
Brown's  Bridesmaid,  &c. 

Seedlings. — The  method  of  raising  seedling  Dahlias,  is 
simply  to  sow  the  seed,  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended 
for  any  other  plants,  and  planting  out  the  young  plants  into  a 
bed  for  flowering  in  the  fall,  in  the  same  way  as  recom- 
mended for  other  perennial  plants.  When  those  have  flow- 
ered, the  cultivator  generally  selects  the  best  kinds,  to  save 
for  another  trial,  and  the  useless  single  varieties,  of  which 
there  are  generally  many,  are  discarded  without  any  more 
care  or  culture. 

Cuttings. — When  choice  varieties  are  desired  to  be  abun- 
dantly increased,  they  are  often  propagated  by  cuttings,  by 
planting  the  stool,  or  entire  roots,  into  large  pots,  or  into  a 
hot-bed,  early  in  the  spring.  When  they  have  made  shoots 
three  or  four  inches  in  length,  they  are  to  be  taken  off  at  a 
joint,  and  put  into  small  pots  singly;  or  the  cuttings  may  be 
put  into  large  pots,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  Ge- 
raniums, or  other  cuttings  belonging  to  the  green-house; 
(which  see,  under  the  head  of  "  Striking  cuttings  of  Green- 
house Plants.")  When  the  plants  are  well  rooted,  they  may 
be  shifted  into  larger  pots  and  planted  out,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  directed  for  other  roots,  at  the  proper  season. 

Dividing  the  roots  may  be  effected  in  the  spring,  so  soon 
as  it  is  a  proper  time  for  planting  out.  The  method  is  simply 
to  divide  the  crown,  in  such  a  manner  as  directed  under  the 
head  of  propagating  "  Tuberous 


72         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

Grafting. — The  choice  kinds  may  be  increased  by  graft- 
ing on  the  tubers  of  the  common  varieties ;  by  taking  the 
tubers  of  the  latter,  cutting  them  square  on  the  top,  making  a 
slit  down  the  centre,  and  inserting  a  shoot  of  the  kind  to  be 
increased,  which  should  be  cut  into  the  form  of  a  wedge ; 
which  see,  under  the  head  of  "  Propagating  Green-house 
Plants  by  Grafting."  When  grafted,  the  roots  may  be  inserted 
into  pots,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended 
for  cuttings. 

Planting  out. — The  time  of  planting  out  the  Dahlia  for 
final  flowering,  must  depend  on  the  season  and  the  different 
parts  of  the  Union  in  which  it  is  to  be  grown.  The  best 
direction  I  can  give  is,  not  to  attempt  it  until  the  frosts  are  all 
over,  and  the  weather  is  sufficiently  warm  to  insure  its  free 
rooting  into  the  earth,  which  should  be  previously  dug  and 
well  pulverized;  from  the  10th  of  May  to  the  latter  end  of 
the  month  will  be  a  good  time  for  most  parts  of  eastern  and 
western  states,  whilst  March  or  April  will  probably  answer 
better  in  the  southern  states.  The  planting  may  be  performed 
by  making  holes  sufficiently  large  to  receive  the  plants  with- 
out breaking  the  balls  of  earth  about  them.  The  plants  may 
then  be  carefully  turned  out  of  the  pots,  with  their  balls  en- 
tire, and  some  fine  earth  carefully  placed  around  them,  when 
a  little  water  may  be  given  to  settle  the  earth  to  the  roots, 
and  the  work  is  done.  When  the  roots  are  to  be  divided,  the 
tubers  may  be  planted  simply  as  any  other  roots,  at  the  pro- 
per time. 

General  Culture  and  Training. — The  principal  culture 
required  for  the  Dahlia,  is  to  keep  the  earth  about  the  roots, 
in  a  clean  mellow  state ;  the  surface  of  the  earth  should  be 
often  hoed  and  raked,  which  gives  an  air  of  neatness,  and  is 
beneficial  to  the  growth  of  the  plants,  by  attracting  the  dew 
and  moist  atmospheric  air  in  hot  weather.  There  are  many 
modes  adopted  for  training  the  Dahlia,  but  they  all  tend  to  the 
same  result,  viz.  to  secure  the  plants  from  being  broken  down 
by  high  winds,  and  to  place  the  branches  in  such  a  position 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST    FLOWERS.  73 

that  the  flowers  show  to  a  good  advantage.  The  most  general 
mode  of  training,  is  to  place  a  strong  stake  of  red  cedar,  four 
or  five  feet  in  length,  near  the  plant,  and  train  one  shoot  to  it 
by  tieing  it  with  bass  matting,  or  other  string,  as  it  progresses 
in  growth.  In  doing  this,  the  string  must  not  be  tied  too 
tightly  round  the  stalk,  which  often  wounds,  and  sometimes 
cuts  it  asunder,  when  it  is  exposed  to  the  violence  of  the 
wind.  To  this  may  be  added,  that  of  training  against  a  flat 
trellis,  fences,  &c.,  which  are  all  to  the  same  purpose. 

Fall  management. — The  principal  course  to  be  pursued 
in  the  fall  management  of  the  Dahlia,  is  in  keeping  the  ground 
clean,  pruning  and  tieing  up  the  branches,  and  thinning  out 
those  which  are  superabundant  ones.  So  soon  as  the  frost  is 
expected,  three  or  four  inches  of  earth  should  be  put  around 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  to  protect  them  from  being  frozen,  as 
is  often  the  case  at  the  early  part  of  the  season,  when  ne- 
glected. Many  persons  take  up  the  roots  of  Dahlias  previous 
to  the  early  frosts,  which  is  evidently  an  error,  because  the 
roots  being  taken  from  the  ground  in  a  state  of  luxuriant 
growth,  and  when  they  are  not  matured  by  the  return  of  sap, 
consequently  shrivel  up,  owing  to  their  being  too  green ;  but 
when  left  in  the  ground  after  the  stalk  is  cut  down  by  the 
frost,  the  small  fibres  extract  nutriment  from  the  ground,  and 
feed  and  plump  the  tubers  into  a  mature  state. 

Taking  up  the  roots. — When  there  is  apprehension  of 
severe  frost,  the  roots  may  be  taken  from  the  ground  and 
dried  in  the  sun,  when  they  are  to  be  taken  into  winter 
quarters. 

There  are  many  methods  of  preserving  the  roots  of 
Dahlias  through  the  winter ;  the  one  most  generally  adopted 
is  the  drying  the  roots  when  taken  from  the  ground,  and 
placing  them  under  the  stage  of  a  green-house.  In  this  situ- 
ation, they  are  looked  over  at  different  times  in  the  winter, 
and  divested  of  any  decaying  parts,  as  the  rot  of  the  stalks,  or 
any  part  of  the  tubers  that  are  beginning  to  decay,  should  be 
immediately  cut  off  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  the  wounds  dried, 

7  G 


74  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

that  it  may  not  begin  to  rot  and  communicate  disease  in  a 
manner  to  destroy  the  whole.  Another  method  is  to  preserve 
the  roots,  after  their  being  dried,  in  boxes  of  dry  sand,  or 
placing  them  in  a  cellar  or  other  room,  where  they  are  secure 
from  the  frost.  The  roots  of  Dahlias  should  be  wintered  in 
a  situation  where  they  are  not  too  warm,  cold,  or  moist. 
When  kept  too  warm,  the  eyes  are  liable  to  start  into  growth 
at  an  early,  unnatural  season,  when  the  sun  and  air  cannot 
have  effect  to  mature  the  young  shoots,  in  a  healthy  vigorous 
manner ;  if  kept  in  a  situation  where  the  roots  are  frozen,  it 
is  certain  they  will  be  lost;  if  too  wet,  it  is  probable  they  will 
be  rotted ;  and  if  too  dry,  the  tubers  will  shrivel  up.  A 
moderate  heat,  from  35°  to  45°,  in  a  situation  where  the  sur- 
rounding air  is  not  too  moist,  or  dry,  is  the  most  favorable 
place  for  preserving  the  roots  of  the  Dahlia  during  the  winter. 


ART.  2. — Descriptive  List  of  Double  Dahlias. 
The  plants  described  in  the  subjoined  list,  were  selected  in 
the  flowering  season  from  the  best  collections  of  the  present 
year ;  and  are  kinds  which  produce  fine  flowers  of  their  color 
and  free  bloomers.  The  list  is  more  limited  than  might  be 
expected,  but  it  will  be  seen  that  the  number  of  varieties  will 
be  sufficient  for  small  collections.  To  the  connoisseur,  it 
would  be  an  arduous  task  to  point  out  the  many  new  varieties 
that  are  yearly  introduced,  and  which  can  only  be  designated 
by  referring  to  numerous  catalogues :  the  list  here  presented 
has,  therefore,  been  chosen  from  the  best  known  varieties, 
adapted  to  the  purpose  of  private  collections.  I  have  omitted 
the  time  of  flowering,  which  will  entirely  depend  on  circum- 
stances. Those  designated  thus  *  are  old  varieties,  retained 
as  free  bloomers,  and  are  adapted  to  small  gardens. 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST    FLOWERS.  75 

Name.  General  Character.  Height. 

WHITE. 

Antagonist  (Bruges')  pure  white,  beautiful  flower  5  ft. 

*Miss  Percival  (Schmitz')  clear  white,  free  bloomer  4 

Alba  purpurea  (  Young's}  white,  edged  with  purple  5 

Queen  of  Summer  (Holmes')        cream  white,  tipped  with  purple  5 

White  Defiance  (Schmitz')  clear  white,  fine  flower  4 

Cheltenham  Queen  (Hodge's')       fine  clear  white,  good  flower  5 

TELLOW. 

Sulphurea  Elegans  (Jones')  light  yellow,  free  bloomer  5 

Unique  (Ansell's)  yellow,  tipped  with  red  5 

Argo  ( Widnall's)  fine  yellow  4 

Prince  of  Wales  (Dodd's)  fine  yellow  5 

*  Bowman's  Premier                       yellow,  free  bloomer  4 
Victor  ( Widnall's)                        bright  primrose,  edged  with  pink  5 

PARTI-COLORED. 

*Mrs.  Rushton  (Buist)  white,  tipped  with  rose  5 

Lady  St.  Maur  (Brown's)  white,  tipped  with  violet  purple  4 

*Striata  Formosissima  (Bates')     blush  carnation,  striped  6 

*Lady  Oath.  Jermyn  (Girling's)   white,  striped  with  scarlet  6 

Bridesmaid  (Brown's)  white,  edged  with  lavender  5 

Madame  Chauviere  (  Girling's)     light  crimson,  tipped  with  clear  white 

Rival  (Bannard's)  fine  crimson,  free  bloomer  4 

Dowager  Lady  Cooper  delicate  pink,  fine  form  5 

Eximia  (Girling's)  rose, superior  form  and  habit  4 

Grace  Darling  (Dodd's)  rosy  salmon,  fine  large  flower  5 

LILAC. 

*  Queen  of  Beauties  (Garth's)       fine  cupped  flower,  free  bloomer  5 
Marshal  Soult                                  lilac  and  red,  very  fine  flower  5 
Lilac  Perfection                               fine  lilac,  free  bloomer  5 

PURPLE. 

Defiance  (Hzrw3od!s)  fine  purple,  free  bloomer  5 

*  Pickwick  (Cormadi's)                 fine  purple,  compact  flower  5 
Oakley's  Surprise                            ruby  pur.,  beaut,  tipped  with  white  4 
Admiral  Stopford  (Trendfield's)    very  dark,  first  class  flower  5 
Sir  R.  Sale  (Smith's)                     crimson  purple,  cupped,  free  bloomer 
Quilled  Perfection  (Brown's)         shaded  claret,  free  bloomer 

ROSE,  CRIMSON*,  AND  LILAC. 

Mrs.  Shelly  (MitcheVs)  dark  rose,  shaded  with  lilac  4 

Hero  of  Stonehenge  ( Whale's)      crimson,  beautifully  cupped  5 

*  Rienzie  (  Widnall's)                     crimson,  shaded  with  lilac  4 
*Ne  Plus  Ultra  ( WidnaWs)          fine  crimson  and  purple  4 
Madonna  (Stand ford" s)                 rosy  lilac,  free  bloomer  4 
Perpetual  Grand  (Brown's)          bright  crimson  5 
Rose  Superior  (  Girling's)              fine  deep  pink,  beautiful  flower  6 
Sir  R.  Sale  (Smith's)  •                   crimson  purple,  cupped  fine  flower  5 
*York  and  Lancaster  (.Saunders')  light  rose  shaded,  free  bloomer  5 

SCARLET. 

*  Countess  of  Liverpool  fine  scarlet,  free  bloomer  7 

*  General  Harrison  (Sayers')         fine  scarlet,  shaded  with  crimson  7 
Hero  of  the  Thames                        fine  scarlet,  good  show  flower  6 
Vivid  (Thompson's)                       brilliant  scarlet  5 


76  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

AKT.  3.— Hardy  Bulbous  Rooted  Plants. 

Bulbous  rooted  plants  belong  to  a  very  extensive  class  of 
hardy  flowers,  and  are  highly  deserving  a  more  extensive  and 
general  cultivation  than  they  receive;  they  are  certainly  the 
prettiest  ornaments  of  the  flower  garden  in  the  early  part  of 
the  spring,  when  few  other  plants  are  in  flower.  Indeed,  the 
Snowdrop  is  the  first  harbinger  of  spring  in  the  flower  gar- 
den, and  is  finely  described  by  Mrs.  Barbauld : 

"  As  Nature's  breath,  by  some  transforming  power, 
Had  changed  an  icicle  into  a  flower  ; 
Its  name  and  hue  the  scentless  plant  retains, 
And  winter  lingers  in  its  icy  veins." 

«'  It  begins  often  to  grow  beneath  the  snow,  at  a  tempera- 
ture scarcely  removed  from  the  freezing  point,  and  flourishes 
alone,"  says  Nuttall,  "  while  all  other  plants  lie  dormant." 
The  Snowdrop  is  succeeded  by  the  pretty  genus  of  plants, 
the  Crocus,  of  which  there  are  various  colors,  of  yellow, 
white,  and  blue,  and  is  particularly  adapted  to  the  facings  of 
flower  beds  and  borders.  These  are  succeeded  by  the  Daf- 
fodil, Polyanthus,  Narcissus,  Jonquils,  Hyacinth  and  Tulips  ; 
and  lastly,  that  noble  class  of  flowers,  the  Lilies,  of  which  the 
White  Lily  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  specimens  of  the 
flower  garden,  presenting  at  one  time  a  flower  possessing  a 
delicate  white  color  and  exquisite  fragrance. 

Culture  of  bulbous  roots. — The  culture  of  bulbous  rooted 
plants,  is  simply  to  plant  the  bulbs,  such  as  Tulips,  Hya- 
cinths, and  others,  about  the  latter  end  of  October,  in  the 
vacant  places  of  borders.  The  best  method  that  I  am  ac- 
quainted with,  is  to  plant  the  roots  in  small  clusters  of  six  or 
eight  together,  four  inches  apart,  by  making  a  hole  two  or 
three  inches  deep,  into  which  insert  the  bulb  about  an  inch 
under  the  earth's  surface ;  and  if  a  little  sand  is  put  into  the 
hole,  it  will  be  of  utility  to  the  bulb,  as  it  will  keep  it  from  rot- 
ting. This  manner  of  planting  may  be  applied  to  Hyacinths, 
Tulips,  Narcissus,  Crocus,  and  Snowdrops,  and  all  hardy 
bulbs.  When  the  leaves  of  bulbs  decay  after  flowering,  they 


CULTURE   OF   FLORIST   FLOWERS.  77 

should  be  taken  from  the  ground,  and  moderately  dried  in  the 
sun,  and  put  into  boxes  with  sand  until  autumn  planting, 
when  the  young  or  side  bulbs  are  to  be  taken  from  the  pa- 
rent, as  directed  under  "  Increase  of  bulbous  rooted  plants," 
and  planted  separately  from  the  flowering  bulbs. 

In  places  where  tulips  are  planted  in  large  collections,  beds 
are  purposely  prepared  for  them  by  taking  out  the  soil  of  the 
bad,  which  is  generally  made  four  feet  wide,  with  an  alley 
two  or  three  feet  wide  around  it.  The  compost  used  is  about 
two-thirds  good  mellow  loam,  which  should  be  prepared 
twelve  months  previous  to  using  it ;  with  it  should  be  mixed 
one-third  good  rotten  cow  or  horse  manure,  and  a  portion  of 
good,  coarse,  sharp  sand.  This  being  prepared,  is  put  into 
the  bed,  and  the  bulbs  are  planted,  as  before  directed,  in  rows, 
from  six  to  eight  inches  apart,  each  way  of  the  bed.  In  this 
method  of  culture,  it  is  customary  to  use  an  awning  in  the  time 
of  flowering,  to  protect  the  flowers  from  the  influence  of  the 
sun,  which  spoils  their  colors  and  prevents  their  being  in 
bloom  any  length  of  time ;  the  management  is  in  every  other 
way  the  same  as  before  stated. 

Hyacinths  are  also  often  planted  in  separate  beds,  when 
precisely  the  same  method  is  followed,  with  the  exception, 
that  they  require  a  lighter  and  richer  compost  than  the  tulip. 

The  varieties  of  bulbous  roots  are  so  numerous,  that  it 
would  be  impossible  for  me  here  to  give  any  definitive  list  of 
them.  I  have  therefore  stated  their  different  divisions,  or 
classes,  leaving  the  cultivator  to  choose  his  collection  as  taste 
may  dictate,  which  can  be  always  done  by  applying  to  the 
different  seedsmen  in  the  Union,  who  generally  have  good 
collections  in  the  planting  season,  in  the  fall,  for  sale.  The 
divisions,  or  classes,  are  as  follows : — 

Tulips  are  divided  into  several  different  varieties,  namely, 

1.  Poses,  with  white  grounds,  with  rose  or  cherry  color 
flame,  or  feather. 

2.  JByblomens,  white  grounds,  with  violet  or  purple  flame, 
or  feather. 


78  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

3.  Bizards,  yellow  grounds,  with  chocolate,  dark  brown, 
and  nearly  black  flame  or  feather. 

They  are  denominated  flamed  Roses,  Byblomens,  Bizards, 
when  the  stripes  of  color  descend  boldly  from  the  top  edges 
of  the  petals  two-thirds  of  the  way  down  the  middle  toward 
the  bottom ;  and  are  called  feathered  Roses,  Byblomens,  or 
Bizards,  when  the  coloring  is  finely  pencilled  round  the  mar- 
gin of  the  petals ;  either  of  white  or  yellow. 

To  these  may  be  added,  Early  Tulips,  of  various  colors, 
on  white  and  yellow  grounds,  of  which  the  Due  Van  T/wl 
is  a  prominent  variety. 

Full  or  Double  Tulips,  are  of  various  colors. 

Parrot  Tulips,  with  fringed  edges  of  brilliant  crimson  and 
yellow,  with  shades  of  bright  green. 

Hyacinths,  like  Tulips,  are  divided  into  several  classes  of 
flowers,  which  are  known  under  several  names,  some  of 
which  refer  to  their  color,  as  Gold  of  Ophir,  Nose  JBoquet, 
&c.  Their  principal  divisions  are — 

Double  Hyacinths — Red  and  rose  colored ;  Blue,  of  vari- 
ous shades ;  White,  with  red  and  purple  eye ;  Pure  white ; 
Double  yellow,  with  various  eyes ;  White,  with  a  yellow  eye. 

Single  Hyacinths — Blue,  White,  Yellow,  Red,  and  Rosy 
colored. 

Various — Blue  grape ;  Pur.  grape  ;  Feathered,  of  varieties. 

Crocus — Cloth  of  gold;  Blue,  White,  Purple,  and  Scotch, 
of  varieties. 

Fritillarias — Persian  curious;  Meleagris  checkered. 

Polyanthus  Narcissus — Grand  Monarque ;  Double  Ro- 
man, sweet  scented;  Sultan,  White  and  Yellow ;  and  various 
double  varieties. 

Single  Narcissits  and  Jonquils — Hoop  Petticoat ;  Poet, 
with  crimson  nectary,  and  various. 

Lilies — White,  Orange,  Lilinm  Superbum,  Silver,  Striped, 
Double  white,  Yellow  pompone. 

Turks1  Cap  Lilies — Different  varieties. 

Crown  Imperials — Yellow,  Red,  Orange,  &c. 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST    FLOWERS.  79 

ART.  4. — The  Carnation  and  Picotee. 

The  Carnation  requires  precisely  the  same  culture  as  the 
Picotee ;  I  shall  therefore  retain  them  under  the  same  head ; 
and  with  these  the  Pink  also  might  be  classed,  with  a  very 
little  variation  of  culture,  in  this  climate. 

This  delightful  family  of  plants,  of  which  Dianthus  is  the 
generic  name,  (from  Dios,  divine,  and  anthos,  flowery  fra- 
grance,) is  highly  deserving  a  more  general  cultivation ;  for  it 
is  certain  that  the  Carnation  and  Pink  are  among  the  prettiest 
ornaments  of  the  flower  garden  of  the  season,  and,  being  na- 
tives of  Britain,  require  only  a  little  protection  during  winter, 
to  have  them  in  the  greatest  perfection. 

Before  I  proceed  with  directions  for  the  culture  of  these 
plants,  it  will  be  proper  to  give  a  definition  of  their  different 
varieties  and  characteristics,  as  acknowledged  by  florists,  and 
in  doing  this,  I  cannot  do  better  than  copy  an  excellent  article 
on  the  subject  from  the  "  Floricultural  Cabinet,"  written  by 
Mr.  John  Frederic.  He  says — 

"  This  flower  is  divided  into  several  classes,  and  of  late 
years  these  have  been  increased,  indicated  by  the  color  of  the 
flowers.  There  are  now  shown,  at  different  exhibitions  in 
the  country — Scarlet  Bizarres,  each  petal  being  striped  with 
two  colors,  scarlet  and  a  dark  maroon,  on  a  white  ground, 
varying  in  intensity  in  different  sorts. 

"  Crimson  Bizarres ;  the  stripes  also  consisting  of  two 
colors,  but  approaching  in  their  tint  more  to  a  rose-color 
and  purple.  In  this  class,  there  is  a  subdivision,  styled 
pink  and  purple,  which  are  lighter  and  more  lively  in  their 
shades. 

"  There  are  yet  three  other  classes,  consisting  of  Flakes. 
Their  colors  are  scarlet,  rose,  or  pink,  and  purple  of  various 
hues;  some  being  many  shades  darker  than  others  in  each  of 
the  divisions. — After  the  flakes,  come  the  varieties  called 
Picotees  or  Carnations,  with  either  spotted  or  striped  margins 
to  their  petals.  Of  these  there  is  a  very  great  variety,  and 
they  may  be  classed  under  the  heads  of  scarlet,  red,  rose- 


80  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

colored,  and  purple.  Formerly,  they  were  only  shown  in 
two  classes,  red  and  purple,  without  any  reference  to  the 
extent  of  the  coloring;  but  now  each  class  is  subdivided  into 
heavy-edged,  with  the  color  thickly  laid  on  round  the  margin 
of  the  leaf,  and  are  called  in  Lancashire  Striped  Picotees ; 
and  feathered,  or  light-edged,  where  the  color  touches  the  leaf 
in  an  unbroken  delicate  line." 

The  Carnation,  like  the  Dahlia,  and  other  florist  flowers,  is 
increased  by  seed,  to  obtain  new  varieties,  which  are  named 
by  those  who  produce  them.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  pots, 
or  in  the  open  ground,  early  in  the  spring;  and  the  young 
plants  may-be  potted  and  managed  the  same  as  recommended 
for  general  culture.  They  will  flower  the  second  year,  when 
the  grower  may  see  the  qualities  of  his  new  varieties.  The 
general  culture  I  recommend,  is  to  propagate  the  Carnation 
by  layers,  in  August  or  September,  immediately  after  they 
have  done  flowering ;  and  when  the  plants  are  well  rooted, 
which  will  be  in  four  weeks,  they  are  to  be  put  into  moderate 
sized  pots,  in  a  compost  of  two-thirds  loam  and  a  portion  of 
sand  and  rotten  leaf  mould:  when  this  is  done,  they  may  be 
placed  where  they  are  not  too  much  shaded,  nor  receive  too 
much  influence  from  the  sun.  The  plants  are  to  remain  in 
this  situation  until  the  first  frost  appears,  when  they  are  to  be 
placed  in  a  cold  frame,  well  lined  on  the  outside  with  stable 
manure.  In  this  situation  during  the  winter  they  must  often 
be  examined,  and  divested  of  any  dead  leaves  or  filth  they 
may  collect,  and  air  admitted  every  opportunity  in  fine  wea- 
ther. When  the  winter  is  over,  the  plants  may  be  plunged 
into  the  proper  place  for  flowering,  which  should  be  an 
exposure,  where  the  sun  has  not  full  influence  over  them  : 
they  may  again  be  layered  at  the  proper  time,  and  the  same 
culture  continued  every  year. 

One  great  point  in  the  culture  of  this  plant  is,  that  it  be  not 
over-watered  in  the  winter,  which,  when  the  severe  change 
comes  and  freezes  it,  the  sap  vessels  often  burst,  and  if  it  does 
not  cause  the  leaves  to  perish,  the  plant  is  much  injured  and 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST   FLOWERS.  81 

weakened  by  it.  The  Carnation  should  be  kept  in  winter  in 
a  moderate,  dry,  airy  state,  and  never  be  over-watered. 

In  many  cases  the  Carnation  is  taken  into  the  green-house 
and  flowered  in  the  spring  among  other  plants  to  a  very  good 
purpose.  After  flowering,  it  is  then  turned  out  into  the  bor- 
ders, as  before  directed. 

It  is  needless  for  me  to  give  any  directions  on  tieing  up  the 
branches,  watering  the  plants  in  a  flowering  state,  &c.,  be- 
cause all  this  course  of  culture  comes  under  that  general  me- 
thod of  cultivation,  which  every  lover  of  flowers  thoroughly 
understands. 

AHT.  5.— The  Pink. 

The  Garden  Pink  is  one  of  the  neatest  flowers  of  its  sea- 
son, and  is  much  admired  for  its  fragrance,  especially  the 
variety  known  as  the  Clove  Pink,  which  has  the  fragrance 
of  the  clove. 

There  are,  besides  this,  the  Double  Pheasant-eyed  Pink, 
too  rarely  seen  in  the  flower  garden,  where  it  should  always 
find  a  place,  as  it  is  certainly^deserving  of  general  culture, 
particularly  as  it  is  so  easily  and  readily  increased,  by  parting 
the  roots,  in  September;  and  by  doing  this  each  plant  will 
make  twenty.  For  the  operation,  a  moist  time  should  be 
chosen,  when  every  plant  will  strike  root  freely.  Of  this 
class  there  is  a  very  pretty  dwarf  neat  variety,  well  adapted 
for  edging,  particularly  for  the  parterre,  or  small  city  garden. 

The  Common  Garden  Pink,  which  is  often  increased  by 
sowing  the  seed,  is  well  worth  cultivating,  as  it  generally 
flowers  abundantly  the  second  year,  and  may  be  termed  bien- 
nial, although  it  is  often  prolonged  for  several  years,  when 
good  varieties  are  obtained  from  seed,  by  cuttings,  layers,  and 
dividing  the  roots. 

The  Carnation  Pink  is  also  now  much  cultivated,  and  is  a 
desirable  variety,  and  forms  a  connecting  link  between  the 
common  Garden  Pink  and  the  Carnation.  It  is  readily 
grown  from  seed,  and  produces  flowers  the  second  season. 


82  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

I  have  often  seen  very  fine  specimens  of  flowers  produced 
from  seed  of  this  variety ;  and  in  some  cases  having  the  de- 
lightful fragrance  of  the  clove,  in  connection  with  a  good 
double  flower. 

The  Prize  Pink. — The  one  recognized  as  a  florist  flower, 
is  rarely  seen  in  cultivation  in  this  country;  nor  is  it  likely 
ever  to  become  a  favorite  to  the  general  cultivator,  owing  to 
its  habit  being  too  tender  to  withstand  our  dry  summers  and 
severe  winters.  This  is  owing  to  the  high  state  of  perfection 
the  plants  are  brought  to  by  amateurs ;  and,  like  the  Carna- 
tion, Tulip  and  all  prize  florist  flowers,  they  have  a  tendency 
to  return  to  their  primitive  state,  sooner  or  later,  unless  they 
have  every  attention  paid  to  them,  as  a  florist  flower.  But 
when  the  Pink  is  kept  in  a  state  of  perfection  by  the  amateur 
florist,  there  is  nothing  I  am  acquainted  with  so  perfectly  in 
unison  with  a  highly  cultivated  flower  garden. 

There  is  not  a  flower  that  I  am  acquainted  with,  of  so 
domestic  a  nature  as  the  Pink.  It  should  be  planted  near  the 
front,  or  the  windows,  of  the  dwelling ;  for  its  agreeable  fra- 
grance, and  neat  habit,  are  always  inviting,  and  I  earnestly 
hope  so  pretty  a  flower  will  find  many  admirers  in  every  part 
of  the  Union. 

The  Garden  Pink  flourishes  in  a  loamy  soil,  with  a  portion 
of  well  rotted  manure,  that  from  the  cow-yard  is  the  best ;  and 
the  choice  tender  kinds  should  be  partially  protected  in  the 
winter.  The  method  of  propagating  the  choice  kinds  of 
Pinks  is  by  pipeings,  and  by  layers. 

The  pipeings  are  the  young  shoots  or  grass  of  the  plants, 
which  are  taken  from  the  plants  in  the  month  of  August  or 
September,  by  taking  them  between  the  finger  and  thumb, 
and  gently  pulling  them  out  of  the  socket  of  the  shoot,  of 
the  length  of  three  or  four  joints.  The  top  of  them  is  then 
partially  cut  off,  level,  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  they  are 
every  way  like  a  cutting,  only  they  need  not  be  cut  at  a 
joint,  or  cut  level  at  the  bottom  with  a  knife,  but  are  simply 
pulled  out  of  the  pipe  of  the  stalk,  and  hence  the  name  pipe- 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST   FLOWERS.  83 

{rig.  A  compost  of  one-third  mellow  loam,  one-third  rotten 
leaf  mould,  and  one-third  river  sand,  is  to  be  prepared  and 
put  into  a  shady  situation,  and  the  pipeings  are  to  be  inserted 
therein,  an  inch  or  two  apart,  and  they  are  then  covered  with 
a  hand  or  bell  glass,  and  regularly  attended  to  as  any  other 
cuttings,  by  shading  from  the  sun,  cleaning  the  glass,  &c. 
When  rooted,  which  will  be  in  a  few  weeks,  they  may  be 
planted  into  their  final  place  of  flowering. 

The  method  of  layering  is  precisely  the  same  as  for  any 
other  plant,  and  the  time  best  for  the  business  is  the  middle 
of  August  or  in  the  beginning  of  September.  The  method  is 
to  clear  out  the  plant  from  dead  leaves,  or  any  rubbish  that 
might  have  been  collected.  The  top  of  the  leaves  of  the 
shoots  intended  to  be  layered  are  then  cut  even,  and  the  earth 
round  the  plant  should  be  broken  up  with  a  trowel,  and  the 
shoots  knecked  and  layered  with  pegs,  in  the  same  manner 
as  before  stated.  When  well  rooted,  the  young  plants  may 
be  planted  in  their  final  place  for  flowering.  The  Carnation 
and  Picotee  may  be  treated  in  precisely  the  same  manner. 

Anx.  6. — The  Polyanthus  and  Auricula. 

The  Polyanthus  and  Auricula,  with  the  Primrose,  Cow- 
slip, and  all  their  intermediate  varieties,  may  be  considered 
under  the  head  of  Primulacese. 

This  pretty  family  of  plants  has  more  claim  on  our  atten- 
tion to  their  culture  than  any  other  class  of  flowers,  so  little 
regarded.  The  Primula  vulgaris,  or  common  Primrose  of 
Great  Britain,  is  one  of  the  first  harbingers  of  spring,  and  is 
seen  almost  every  where,  peeping  under  the  sunny  banks,  to 
greet  the  young  spring,  and  bid  adieu  to  the  last  relics  of  old 
hoary  winter. 

In  China,  Switzerland,  and  other  parts  of  the  northern 
hemisphere,  the  Primula  is  found  inhabiting  the  mountains 
and  meadows ;  and  the  Auricula  is  found,  in  its  primitive 
state,  growing  on  the  base  of  the  Alpine  mountains,  where 
the  sun  seldom  or  never  shines ;  and  hence  we  mav  infer 


84  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

that  this  variety  requires  shade,  to  grow  it  to  perfection,  in  a 
cultivated  state. 

The  Polyanthus — which  is  an  improved  variety  of  the 
English  Primrose,  and  has  been  brought  to  that  state  of  per- 
fection as  to  render  it  a  florist  flower, — differs  from  the  Pri- 
mula by  forming  a  truss,  or  number  of  flowers,  on  one  stem, 
and  hence  the  name  Polyanthus.  Florists  decide  on  the  per- 
fection of  this  flower,  by  its  having  a  strong  and  uniform  stem, 
which  ought  to  be  elastic  and  erect,  showing  the  truss  of 
flowers  well  above  the  leaves  of  the  plants.  The  footstalk 
should  be  stiff,  and  of  a  proportionate  size  to  the  pips  or 
flowers,  which  should  be  five  or  more  in  number,  that  the 
truss  be  close  and  compact.  The  pipe,  tube,  or  inner  part  of 
the  petal,  should  rise  above  the  impalement,  be  short,  and 
finish  fluted  in  the  eye;  the  antherse  should  cover  the  neck 
of  the  tube ;  this  is  the  rose  eye ;  and  what  florists  call  a 
thrum  eye.  When  the  style  shows  its  stigma  in  the  tube, 
above  the  antherse,  resembling  a  pin's  head,  it  is  then  called 
SL pin  eye,  and  the  flower  is  rejected. 

The  tube  should  be  round,  of  a  bright  yellow  color,  well 
filled  with  anthers,  bold  and  distinct.  The  eye  should  be 
round,  of  a  bright  clear  yellow,  and  distinct  from  the  ground 
or  body  color.  The  ground,  or  body  color,  should  be  of  a 
dark  rich  color,  resembling  velvet,  and  clear  from  spot  or 
blemish.  The  pips  should  be  large,  and  of  rich  lively  colors, 
nearly  all  of  one  size,  lie  quite  flat  in  the  centre,  and  be  as 
free  as  possible  from  ridges  or  fluting,  and  as  round  as  pos- 
sible, to  preserve  their  peculiar  beautiful  form,  which  is 
circular,  or  wheel-shaped,  excepting  those  small  indentations 
between  each  division  of  the  limb,  which  divides  it  into  five  or 
six  heart-shaped  segments.  The  edging,  or  lacing,  should  be 
of  a  bright  yellow,  of  the  same  color  as  the  eye,  and  go  per- 
fectly round  each  petal,  also,  down  the  centre  of  each  division 
of  the  limb  to  the  eye  ;  it  should  also  be  of  an  equal  breadth 
on  each  petal. 

Culture. — The  Polyanthus  and  Auricula  require  the  same 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST    FLOWERS.  85 

treatment  in  culture,  and  are  increased  by  seed,  which  should 
be  sown  in  pots  or  boxes,  of  light,  fine  earth,  in  the  spring. 
The  green-house,  or  frame,  is  the  best  place  for  this  business, 
but  the  open  ground  will  answer ;  care  should  be  taken  to 
keep  the  earth  moderately  moist,  or  the  seed  will  not  vege- 
tate freely*  The  young  plants  should  be  kept  in  a  shady 
situation  through  the  summer,  as  they  will  not  thrive  when 
fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  In  the  fall,  the  plants  may  be 
potted  singly  into  four  or  five  inch  pots,  in  a  compost  of  half 
well  prepared  mellow  loam,  and  the  remainder  leaf  mould 
and  good  sharp  river  sand.  The  old  plants  may  be  divided 
by  their  roots,  in  August  or  September,  and  potted  in  the 
same  kind  of  compost. 

When  the  winter  begins  to  close,  the  Polyanthus  and  Auri- 
cula may  be  protected  in  "  Garden-frames,"  as  directed  under 
that  head ;  or  they  may  be  introduced  into  the  front  stage  of 
the  green-house,  where  they  generally  flower  in  fine  perfec- 
tion. Early  in  the  spring,  the  plants  should  be  plunged  out 
of  their  pots  in  a  northern  aspect,  where  they  are  not  too 
much  shaded,  and  in  the  fall  they  may  be  again  repotted,  as 
before  directed. 

It  would  be  useless  for  me  to  give  a  list  of  the  numerous 
varieties  of  the  Polyanthus  and  Auricula,  as  described  in  the 
English  catalogues.  I  shall,  therefore,  merely  point  out  the 
different  divisions  of  the  family,  as  follows  :— 

Polyanthus — Single  and  Double  varieties. 

English  Primrose — Single:  Yellow,  Purple,  and  Lilac. 
Double:  White,  Yellow,  Purple,  and  Lilac. 

Cowslip — Yellow,  and  Purple. 

Oxlip — Yellow,  and  Purple. 

Auriculas — Large  Purple,  with  dark  centre ;  Purple,  with 
yellow  centre;  Fine  Purple,  crimson  border  and  centre; 
Pure  Yellow. 


H 


86  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ART.  7. — On  the  Culture  of  the  Pansy,  or  Heartsease. 

The  Pansy  having  become  so  favorite  a  plant  in  the  flower 
garden,  I  shall  devote  a  small  space  to  remarks  on  its  culture. 
To  obtain  new  varieties,  the  same  process  as  with  other 
flowers  must  be  resorted  to,  namely,  selecting  out  the  best 
kinds,  and  impregnating  one  with  the  other,  in  order  to  mix 
the  colors,  and  obtain  those  which  are  considered  by  florists 
the  best  marked  flowers ;  which  are  those  with  a  clear,  dark 
ground,  and  well  shaped  petals,  that  are  regularly  margined 
or  laced,  either  with  white  or  yellow  :  but  white  is  the  most 
delicate,  and  is  considered  the  best. 

Having  procured  the  seed,  it  may  be  sown  immediately,  or 
saved  until  spring,  when  it  may  be  sown  either  in  a  pot  of 
light,  rich  earth,  or  in  a  frame.  As  soon  the  plants  are  grown 
to  a  moderate  size,  they  are  to  be  pricked  out,  either  into 
beds  or  borders,  of  rich  earth,  of  a  moist,  loamy  nature ;  in 
many  cases,  they  are  planted  as  a  bordering  for  flower  bor- 
ders ;  and  when  they  are  of  a  good  width,  they  have  a  very 
pretty  effect  in  the  flowering  season.  But  the  more  proper 
way  is  to  plant  them  in  four-feet  beds,  and  if  a  little  shaded 
from  the  noon-day  sun  the  better. 

The  Pansy  is,  in  most  cases,  hardy ;  however,  if  the 
choice  and  tender  kinds  are  a  little  protected  in  the  winter, 
they  will  flower  much  better  in  the  spring  following.  The 
general  manner  of  planting  the  Pansy,  is  to  prepare  a  piece 
of  ground  in  the  usual  way  for  planting,  and  divide  it  into  four- 
feet  beds,  with  eighteen-inch  alleys,  and  plant  the  seedlings 
across  the  beds,  about  a  foot  apart  each  way ;  and  they  are  to 
be  in  every  way  treated  as  other  flowers.  When  the  plants 
are  fully  grown,  or  fit  for  transplanting,  they  may  be  mixed 
with  other  flowers  in  the  borders  for  flowering,  and  a  little 
shaded  from  the  mid-day  sun,  which  generally  runs  the  deli- 
cate colors  off  them. 

The  choice  kinds  may  be  potted  and  protected  in  frames 
during  winter,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  the  soil  in  frames, 
and  covered ;  and,  indeed,  the  more  choice  kinds  may  be  with 


CULTURE    OF    FLORIST    FLOWERS.  87 

every  propriety  placed  in  the  green-house,  to  flower  early, 
where  they  will  have  a  pretty  appearance. 

The  choice  varieties  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  which 
should  be  taken  off  early  in  the  spring,  or  in  September,  and 
treated  the  same  as  any  other  cuttings,  by  placing  them  in  a 
shady  situation,  and  well  attending  them,  when  they  will 
generally  strike  root  freely. 

ART.  8. — The  Chrysanthemum. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  Chrysanthemum  is  not 
more  generally  cultivated,  particularly  when  it  is  in  season 
when  there  are  but  few  other  plants  in  flower.  This,  I  pre- 
sume, may  be  more  attributed  to  but  few  varieties  being 
generally  known,  and  those  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  than  to 
any  other  cause.  In  hopes  to  make  the  subject  better  known, 
I  shall  treat  separately  on  the  culture,  and  add  a  Descriptive 
List  of  some  of  the  best  known  varieties  at  the  present  period. 

The  Chrysanthemum  is  a  native  of  China,  and  may  be 
considered  a  hardy  perennial;  but,  although  it  lives  through 
the  winter  unprotected,  the  plants  do  not  bloom  in  perfection 
unless  they  are  protected  from  the  early  frost,  either  in  a 
frame,  green-house,  or  room.  There  are  various  methods  of 
cultivating  the  Chrysanthemum,  as  by  cuttings,  layers,  and 
dividing  the  roots.  The  common  mode  of  culture  is  to  plant 
out  the  roots  in  the  spring  in  the  flower  borders,  and  allow 
them  to  grow  without  any  other  culture  than  is  given  to  plants 
in  common :  these  plants  are  taken  up  about  the  first  week  in 
September,  and  put  into  pots  or  boxes,  to  suit  their  size,  and 
are  allowed  to  flower,  with  the  ordinary  care  given  to  plants. 

The  most  approved  method  by  florists,  is  to  increase  the 
plants  by  cuttings,  which  are  taken  from  the  plants  in  the 
ground,  when  they  are  grown  eight  or  ten  inches.  The  me- 
thod is  to  take  off  the  cuttings  at  two  or  three  joints  and  pot 
them,  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for  the  propaga- 
tion of  geraniums ;  when  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted,  they 
may  be  potted  into  three  inch  pots  of  compost,  the  same  as 
8 


88  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

recommended  for  green-house  plants,  and  put  into  a  situation 
where  they  are  partly  shaded  from  the  mid-day  sun,  which 
often  scalds  the  leaves,  and  makes  the  plants  have  a  very  bare 
appearance.  When  the  plants  are  well  rooted,  they  may 
then  be  shifted  into  four  or  rive  inch  pots,  with  the  same 
compost  as  before  recommended,  with  the  addition  of  a  por- 
tion of  well  rotted  leaf  mould,  or  manure,  and  a  portion  of 
sand.  They  may  now  be  placed  in  a  free  exposure,  and 
have  a  bountiful  supply  of  water,  to  grow  them  in  a  healthy 
state.  In  order  to  have  Chrysanthemums  form  nice  bushy 
heads,  they  should  be  stopped,  when  about  six  inches  high, 
by  nipping  out  the  heart  of  the  plants.  In  this  place  they 
may  be  allowed  to  remain  until  taken  into  the  room,  or  green- 
house, for  flowering,  which  should  be  done  before  the  first 
frost  appears,  which  always  injures  and  disfigures  the  plants. 
There  is  one  thing  necessary  to  be  considered  in  the  culti- 
vation of  the  Chrysanthemum,  namely,  the  manner  of  win- 
tering the  roots,  which  should  be  so  managed,  that  they  are 
kept  in  a  dry,  healthy  state,  and  are  not  growing  freely,  as  it 
should  always  be  the  object  of  the  cultivator  to  keep  the 
young  shoots  from  growing,  if  possible,  during  the  winter. 

Descriptive  List  of  Chrysanthemums. 

Adventure ;  yellow.  Paper  White ;  fine  white  flake. 

Aitons ;  yellow.  Peerless  Primrose.  [low,  fine. 

Bicolor ;  white,  with  yellow  centre.  Park's  Small  Yellow  ;   clustered,  yel- 

Changeable  White.  Purpurea  Superba ;  superb  purple. 

Compactum  ;  small  white.  Quilled  Purple ;  fine  flower. 
Curled  Lilac;  deep  lilac,  curled  petals.  Quilled  Aster  flowered. 

Defiance  (Buisf) ;  lemon  yellow.  Queen;  delicate  rose. 

Fletcher;  rich  crimson.  Sanguineum;  deep  crimson. 

Golden  Lotus;  fine  yellow;.  Solon;  large  superb  yellow. 

Grand  Napoleon ;  fine  purple.  Starry  Purple ;  fine  purple. 

Georgiana ;  pink,  expanded  flower.  Striatum ;  pink  and  buff". 

Indian  White ;  pretty  small  white.  Superb  White ;  fine  flower. 

Invincible ;  large  white.  Tasselled  Lilac ;  fine  lilac. 

King ;  large  pale  rose.  Tasselled  White ;  showy  flower. 

Lilac  Perfection ;  fine  lilac.  Triumphant ;  buff  and  pink. 

Lucidum ;  pure  white.  Victory ;  rosy  blush. 

Mirabile ;  pink  and  buff.  Virginia ;  white,  perfect  flower. 

Ne  plus  ultra ;  pure  white.  Wheelerii ;  deep  rose. 

Perfection  ;  lilac.  William  Penn ;  creamy  white. 


CHAPTER  V. 

On  the  Monthly  Calendar. 

ART.  1.— Object  of  the  Monthly  Calendar. 

Ix  giving  a  monthly  calendar,  the  principal  object  is  to  take 
a  cursory  review  of  the  management  of  the  flower  garden,  at 
the  different  seasons,  which  could  not  be,  in  any  other  way, 
done  in  so  condensed  a  form,  corresponding  with  the  tenor  of 
this  book,  which  is,  as  much  as  possible  to  treat  on  every 
thing  separately.  The  manner  of  propagating  most  kinds  of 
the  plants  adapted  to  the  flower  garden,  has  been  separately 
treated  on  in  Part  I ;  and  it  now  remains  to  speak  of  their 
general  culture,  as  the  seasons  pass  on  from  spring  to  sum- 
mer, autumn,  and  winter.  In  commencing  this  subject,  I 
shall  begin  with  the  year ;  for,  although  in  the  month  of  Ja- 
nuary nearly  all  horticultural  operations  are  suspended,  it  is 
customary  to  allot  that  month  a  space  in  the  calendar. 

Before  I  proceed  with  the  directions  for  each  month,  it  will 
be  proper  to  say,  that  the  reader  must,  in  many  instances, 
judge  for  himself  of  the  proper  time  of  doing  any  particular 
business,  as  a  little  fore-thought  will  at  once  convince  any 
person  that  practical  observation  is  one  of  the  best  guides  to 
perfection  in  the  management  of  the  flower  garden.  The 
criterion  here  laid  down  is  supposed  to  answer  for  the  eastern 
states,  and  the  vicinity  of  Cincinnati.  In  the  more  southern 
parts  of  the  Union,  of  course,  every  thing  relative  to  practice 
and  management  will  be  in  accordance  with  the  season,  which 
will  perhaps  be  a  month  earlier  to  operate  than  the  rule  here 
laid  relative  to  time.  This  may  be  easily  remedied  by  taking 
such  things  into  consideration,  and  managing  accordingly; 
and  taking  February  for  January,  March  for  February,  and 
so  on,  through  the  process  of  the  monthly  calendar. 
89  H2 


90  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ART.  2. — January. 

In  this  month,  little  can  be  done  in  the  flower  department, 
except  in  the  green-house,  and  taking  care  of  plants  in  rooms, 
which  I  shall  notice  in  their  separate  places.  However,  if 
the  weather  proves  changeable,  which  is  often  the  case,  the 
coverings  of  the  plants  are  liable  to  be  misplaced  by  the  wind, 
and  other  causes ;  therefore  it  is  proper  to  look  over  the  gar- 
den, to  see  that  all  is  in  due  order,  particularly  if  Carnations, 
and  such  like,  are  covered. 

Plants  in  frames,  also,  as  the  Carnation,  Auricula,  Poly- 
anthus, and  the  like,  may  be  looked  over,  and  kept  in  order, 
by  taking  away  any  dead  leaves  or  filth  that  may  be  collected 
in  them;  and  if  mice,  rats,  or  other  vermin,  have  made 
any  depredations,  they  should,  if  possible,  be  destroyed. 
If  the  weather  proves  mild,  which  is  sometimes  the  case  in 
this  month,  the  glasses  may  be  taken  off  in  the  middle  of  the 
day,  and  closed  at  night ;  care  must  be  taken  that  they  are 
not  left  open  through  the  night,  and  the  plants  frozen,  which 
is  often  the  case.  See  Garden  Frames. 


ART.  3. — February. 

In  this  month,  like  the  preceding,  little  can  be  done  to 
advantage  in  the  garden,  except  where  any  forest  trees  are 
to  be  pruned,  or  cut  down,  which  may  be  done  to  a  good 
purpose,  and  much  forward  the  business  of  the  flower 
garden  in  the  coming  spring;  the  frames  should  be  attended 
to,  as  previously  directed,  and  the  garden  should  often  be 
looked  over,  to  see  that  the  covering,  and  the  like,  is  in  due 
order. 

In  the  south-western  states,  the  business  of  the  flower  gar- 
den will  commence  this  month,  and  the  rules  laid  down  for 
March  will  answer  precisely  the  purpose,  and  the  same 
transfer  may  be  carried  through  the  seasons. 


ON   THE   MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  91 

ART.  4. — March. 

This  month,  if  mild,  begins  the  principal  business  of  the 
flower  garden.  A  hot-bed  may  be  prepared,  as  before  di- 
rected, for  sowing  annual  flower  seeds ;  biennials  and  peren- 
nials, that  are  intended  for  early  planting,  may  also  be  for- 
warded by  this  method.  The  plants  in  frames  may  have 
more  air  given  them,  and  every  opportunity  should  be  taken 
to  forward  them  as  much  as  possible  for  the  planting  out  in 
the  ground.  The  uncovering  of  many  plants  may  be  seen  to 
near  the  close  of  the  month,  and  all  kinds  of  hardy  shrubs 
and  plants  may  be  pruned  and  tied,  or  nailed,  in  a  proper 
manner,  either  to  fences,  walls  or  trellises,  to  which  they 
are  intended  to  be  trained. 

In  the  latter  part  of  this  month,  all  dead  stalks  may  be 
neatly  cut  from  the  plants,  and  cleared  from  the  garden,  and 
the  grass  plat  may  be  raked  and  divested  of  all  the  old  dead 
grass,  and  any  thing  that  may  prevent  the  young  grass  from 
coming  up  in  a  regular  manner ;  any  parts  of  the  walks  that 
have  been  washed,  either  by  rain  or  snow-water,  should  now 
be  repaired,  and  put  into  good  order  previous  to  the  spring 
dressing.  The  pruning  of  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  per- 
formed, by  simply,  in  the  first  case,  divesting  them  of  all 
dead  wood,  and  thinning  out  all  weak,  superfluous  branches, 
and  those  which  cross  one  another.  In  the  act  of  pruning, 
a  few  simple  rules  are  to  be  regarded,  viz.  that  all  wounds  or 
amputations  be  made  with  sharp  instruments,  and  left  in  a 
clean,  slanting  manner,  that  the  wet  may  not  collect  on  and 
rot  the  wound ;  the  next  thing  is,  that  the  plants  be  regulated 
in  such  a  manner  that  the  sun  and  air  have  free  access  to 
every  part  of  them ;  and  thirdly,  that  their  natural  form  and 
habit  be  as  much  as  possible  retained.  In  cases  where  plants 
have  grown  into  a  straggling  manner,  they  may  be  headed  in, 
to  form  a  new  head  or  crown.  These  remarks  will  be  found 
to  answer  a  general  purpose,  in  pruning  plants  to  their  natural 
habit,  if  correctly  attended  to. 


92  THE    FLOWER   GARDEN   COMPANION. 

ART.  5. — April. 

April  is  the  busiest  month  in  the  flower  garden.  As  soon 
as  the  weather  will  admit,  and  the  ground  is  dry,  the  pruning 
and  cleansing  of  the  plants  and  the  garden  should  be  finished. 

The  borders  and  flower  beds  may  now  be  dug,  and  the 
box,  or  other  edgings,  mended  or  replanted,  and  every  thing 
must  be  done  preparatory  to  transplanting  perennials  and 
sowing  annuals. 

In  digging  borders  or  flower  beds,  care  must  be  taken  that 
they  are  so  dug  as  to  lay  rather  the  highest  in  the  middle,  by 
which  the  appearance  will  have  a  more  pleasing  effect,  and 
the  water  will  drain  from  them  in  a  regular  manner.  It  must 
be  recollected,  that  wherever  water  is  allowed  to  lay  long  on 
any  plants,  (except  aquatics,]  they  are  much  injured  thereby. 
Previous  to  the  borders  being  dug,  the  places  required  to  be 
planted,  either  with  shrubs  or  herbaceous  plants,  may  be 
planted  after  the  manner  described  under  the  heads  of  Plant- 
ing and  Descriptive  Lists,  where  every  information  will  be 
found  relative  to  their  proper  position,  and  the  manner  of 
performing  the  work.  When  the  borders  are  dug  and 
planted,  the  grass  plat,  if  any,  and  walks  must  be  repaired, 
and  put  in  proper  order. 

The  seeds  of  hardy  annuals  and  perennials  may  be  sown, 
and  the  layering  of  plants,  dividing  the  roots,  putting  out  cut- 
tings, and  the  like,  may  be  performed  as  directed  under  the 
head  of  "  Propagation."* 

ART.  6.— May.  . 

Supposing  the  work  to  be  done  as  directed,  in  April  or  the 
beginning  .of  this  month,  the  principal  thing  to  be  attended  to 
is  to  sow  all  kinds  of  annual,  biennial,  and  perennial  seeds,  at 
three  sowings,  this  month :  the  hardy  kinds  at  the  beginning, 
the  half  hardy  at  the  middle,  and  the  tender  at  the  end  of  the 
month.*  In  the  beginning  of  the  month,  box  edgings  may  be 

*  This  business,  in  this  place,  particularly  refers  to  the  eastern  states ; 
in  the  south-western  states  it  should  be  done  in  the  preceding  month. 


ON  THE  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  93 

laid,  and  all  kinds  of  edgings,  as  Moss-pink,  Iris,  Stone-crop, 
and  the  like,  may  be  neatly  repaired,  and  every  thing  com- 
pletely finished  for  the  spring  dressing.  If  the  trees  and 
shrubs  have  not  been  pruned  and  trained,  (which  see,  under 
the  proper  head,)  as  directed  in  April,  no  time  should  be  lost 
in  performing  that  work  in  the  early  part  of  this  month. 

In  the  middle,  or  latter  part  of  the  month,  all  kinds  of 
green-house  plants  may  be  plunged  in  the  borders  or  flower 
beds,  as  directed  under  their  proper  heads.  The  Dahlia, 
Jacobean  Lily,  and  all  kinds  of  tender  rooted  plants,  either 
tuberous  or  fibrous,  may  also  be  planted  the  latter  part  of  the 
month. 

Tender  and  hardy  annual  flowers  may  now  be  transplanted 
from  the  frames ;  the  hardy  at  the  beginning,  and  the  tender 
at  the  end  of  the  month. 

All  kinds  of  flowers  that  are  of  slender  growth  should  now 
be  supported  by  tieing  them  neatly  to  sticks,  and  every  atten- 
tion should  be  paid  to  the  health  of  the  plants  and  neatness 
of  the  garden. 

ART.  7. — June. 

The  principal  business  to  be  done  in  this  month  is  hoeing 
and  keeping  the  flower  beds  in  order,  often  mowing  the  grass 
plat,  and  cleaning  the  walks  ;  indeed,  every  department  should 
at  this  time  receive  the  most  strict  attention.  And  here  let 
me  remind  the  reader,  that  one  of  the  principal  things  to  be 
attended  to  in  flower-gardening,  is  to  remove  all  weeds  in 
their  infant  state,  for  at  this  stage  they  can  be  easily  de- 
stroyed ;  but  if  allowed  to  grow  and  get  strongly  rooted  in  the 
ground,  they  exhaust  the  soil,  as  well  as  have  a  bad  appear- 
ance. Hoeing,  raking,  and  destroying  weeds,  are  operations 
PO  simple  and  common  as  to  render  any  directions  on  the  sub- 
ject superfluous;  but  its  simplicity  does  not  prevent  it  from 
being  a  most  important  subject.  To  avoid  irksome  minute- 
ness, I  will  merely  remark,  that  the  most  strict  attention 
should  be  paid  to  keeping  every  part  of  the  garden  at  all 


94          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

times  neat  and  cleanly ;  and  having  once  called  attention  to 
this  point,  I  may  not  recur  to  it  hereafter. 

Particular  attention  must  be  paid  at  this  time  to  the  tieing 
up  all  the  slender  plants  to  stakes  or  sticks,  as  the  Dahlia. 
and  plants  of  a  rapid  growth.  For  this  purpose,  neat  sticks, 
or  stakes,  should  be  prepared,  of  a  size  in  proportion  to  the 
height  of  the  plant ;  for  the  Dahlia,  sticks  of  about  six  or 
seven  feet,  planed  off  in  a  tapering  manner,  either  round  or 
square,  and  painted  green,  answer  a  good  purpose.  In  the 
operation  of  tying  up  the  Dahlia,  care  must  be  taken  that  the 
plant  is  not  tied  too  tightly,  which  is  often  the  case,  and  the 
consequence  of  which  is,  that  the  plant  is  nearly  cut  asunder, 
and  the  first  storm  that  comes  blows  it  down.  In  tying  up 
plants  care  must  also  be  taken  that  they  are  not  too  much 
bundled  together,  which  is  not  only  unsightly  to  the  eye,  but 
is  often  the  cause  of  the  centre  part  of  the  plant  being  in  a 
measure  rotted,  owing  to  the  leaves  being  too  much  confined, 
and  not  receiving  the  influence  of  the  atmospheric  air. 

Attention  must  now,  also,  be  paid  to  the  training  of  vines, 
as  Honeysuckle,  Clematis,  and  all  such  plants  as  are  trained 
to  trellises  and  arbors ;  which  see,  under  the  head  of  Hardy 
Running  Vines. 

Annual  flower  seeds  may  now  also  be  sown  for  late  flow- 
ering; and  in  moist  weather  any  bare  places  in  the  borders 
may  be  planted  and  filled  up  with  annuals,  to  make  every 
part  have  a  regular  and  sightly  appearance. 

ART.  8. — July. 

Every  favorable  opportunity  should  be  taken  in  this  month 
to  keep  down  weeds  as  they  appear,  and  to  tie  up  any  plants 
that  are  of  a  slender  habit.  The  Dahlias  should  be  carefully 
looked  over,  and  tied  to  their  stakes,  to  prevent  them  from 
being  broken  down  by  rains  or  heavy  storms.  Every  atten- 
tion must  now,  also,  be  paid  to  annuals,  by  thinning  out  those 
that  are  growing  thickly  together,  which,  in  their  infant  state, 
cause  a  weakness  in  their  habitual  constitution,  and  they 


ON  THE  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  95 

rarely  assume  their  wonted  vigor  in  the  flowering  season ; 
and  the  consequence  is,  that  they  never  flower  in  perfection. 
Any  kind  of  bulbous  roots,  as  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Crocuses, 
and  the  like,  that  are  to  be  taken  up  and  replanted  in  the 
autumn,  may  be  removed  so  soon  as  their  leaves  are  ripe  and 
decaying:  for  the  method  of  performing  this  work,  I  refer  the 
reader  to  page  76-7. 

It  will  be  proper  here  to  observe,  that  there  is  an  exception 
to  the  rule  of  taking  up  bulbous  rooted  plants,  in  most  kinds 
of  lilies,  as  the  White  Lily,  Orange  Lily,  and  the  like.  In- 
deed, in  many  cases,  they  are  much  injured  by  being  often 
removed;  the  White  Lily  seldom  flowers  well,  if  at  all,  the 
first  year  of  its  removal,  and  many  other  kinds  flower  but 
feebly.  The  best  method  that  I  can  recommend  in  the  culture 
of  lilies,  is  to  thin  out  the  roots  in  such  a  manner,  yearly, 
that  the  large  flowering  bulbs  are  three  or  four  inches  apart : 
the  taking  away  the  offsets  and  small  bulbs  in  this  manner, 
gives  those  left  to  flower  a  chance  to  obtain  the  different  nu- 
triments and  food  in  the  grounds  in  which  they  are  growing. 

Care  must  be  taken  this  month  of  any  green-house  plants, 
whether  plunged  in  the  ground  or  otherwise,  by  watering 
them  moderately,  so  that  the  earth  they  are  growing  in  may 
be  kept  moderately  moist.  This  is  the  most  critical  month 
in  the  summer  for  many  kinds  of  green-house  plants,  particu- 
larly the  Erica  and  Camellia,  which  are  often  so  much 
inj  ured  that  they  never  recover,  owing  to  the  earth  in  the  pots 
being  allowed  to  be  dried  to  dust.  The  consequence  is,  that 
the  roots  of  the  plants  perish  by  drought,  and  the  leaves  turn 
yellow  and  fall  off.  Insects,  aleo,  attack  the  plants,  which, 
being  in  a  weakly  state,  by  degrees  dwindle  and  die.  In  all 
kinds  of  tender  annuals  and  herbaceous  plants  which  are  pe- 
rishing for  want  of  water,  attention  may  be  paid  to  the  water- 
ing at  the  roots  moderately  in  the  evening;  but  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  over- water  at  this  season,  which  will  be  unna- 
tural, and  greatly  injure  them.  Moderation  must  be  the  guide 
in  this  process,  as  in  all  others  of  the  same  nature. 


96  THE   FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ART.  9. — August 

Little  is  required  to  be  done  in  this  month,  besides  keeping 
the  flower  beds  and  garden  clean,  tying  up  plants,  cleaning 
walks,  &c.,  of  which  I  have  already  spoken.  If  any  bulbous 
rooted  plants,  that  are  to  be  taken  up,  still  remain  in  the 
ground,  their  removal  should  no  longer  be  deferred.  The 
inoculation  to  be  done  on  Hoses,  or  any  choice  plants,  should 
be  attended  to  near  the  end  of  the  month,  or  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  in  a  proper  condition  to  be  operated  upon ;  which 
see,  under  the  head  of  Inoculation,  page  35.  Any  kinds  of 
annual  or  perennial  plants  that  have  done  flowering,  and  are 
encumbering  their  neighbors,  may  also  be  taken  away  or  cut 
down,  and  the  garden  should  at  this  time  go  through  a  regular 
hoeing,  raking,  and  cleaning,  which  is  very  important  at  this 
season,  and  when  neglected  is  many  times  the  cause  of  much 
labor,  by  weeds  over-growing  and  spoiling  the  autumnal  flow- 
ering plants. 

AHT.  10. — September. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month,  all  kinds  of  green-house 
plants  intended  to  be  taken  up  and  potted,  either  for  the 
green-house  or  rooms,  should  be  attended  to.  For  the  man- 
ner of  performing  the  potting  of  plants,  I  refer  the  reader  to 
that  chapter,  "on  the  Management  of  Green-house  Plants." 
All  kinds  of  annual  and  biennial  flowers  may  now  also  be 
potted,  and  placed  in  a  situation  where  they  can  be  partially 
shaded,  in  order  to  encourage  their  rooting  freely  in  the  pots. 
For  a  Descriptive  List  of  the  best  kinds  for  this  purpose,  1 
refer  the  reader  to  articles  1  and  2  in  the  Appendix.  Indeed, 
any  kind  of  plants  intended  to  be  taken  into  winter  quarters, 
should  not  be  delayed  after  this  time;  they  are  rarely  well 
rooted  and  prepared  for  the  sudden  change. 

There  are  but  few  things  to  be  done  in  the  flower  garden, 
that  require  more  practical  knowledge,  and  are  less  under- 
stood, than  the  taking  from  the  ground  and  preparing  plants 
for  winter  quarters.  In  this,  I  would  wish  to  be  understood 


ON  THE  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  9? 

as  referring  to  all  kinds  of  annuals,  biennials,  and  perennials. 
In  the  first  place,  it  is  an  act  of  violence  on  nature  to  remove 
plants  from  the  soil,  when  they  are  established  and  in  a  vi- 
gorous growth,  to  a  small  pot  of  earth,  perhaps  of  quite  a 
different  compost  from  that  in  which  they  have  been  growing; 
besides,  they  have  in  most  cases  their  principal  roots  cut 
asunder,  which  have  extended  several  feet  in  search  of  a  pro- 
per nutriment;  consequently,  the  natural  channels  that  extract 
food  for  the  plant  are  severed  from  it,  and  its  vigor  is  more 
exhausted  than  nourished;  the  plant  being  thus  enfeebled, 
eventually  loses  a  portion  of  its  leaves,  in  proportion  to  the 
loss  of  such  members ;  and  this  again  weakens  it,  owing  to  its 
losing,  in  a  certain  degree,  its  power  of  imbibing  the  moisture 
of  the  atmospheric  air.  In  this  case,  the  plant  has  generally 
to  undergo  a  change  in  habit  and  growth,  at  a  time  when  it  is 
least  prepared  for  it,  namely,  before  the  approach  of  winter, 
when  it  requires  to  be  in  full  vigor,  which  can  only  be  re- 
gained by  the  most  attentive  and  natural  management 

Taking  the  plants  from  the  ground  and  potting  them. — 
If  possible,  an  opportunity  should  be  sought  to  take  the  plants 
from  the  ground,  or  pot  them,  on  a  moist,  humid  day,  after  a 
shower  of  rain.  They  should  be  taken  carefully  from  the 
ground,  and  their  fibrous  roots  as  much  as  possible  retained. 
Being  taken  from  the  ground,  they  should  be  immediately 
potted,  and  well  watered,  and  placed  in  a  situation  where 
they  are  partially  shaded,  and  have  a  free  circulation  of  air: 
it  will  be  the  better  for  them  if  they  be  placed  under  trees, 
where  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  are  withdrawn  from  them, 
and  a  free  circulation  of  air  can  act  on  them.  In  this  situa- 
tion, the  plants  must  be  regularly  attended  to,  by  keeping  the 
earth  moderately  moist,  in  order  that  they  may  root  freely  in 
the  new  pots.  All  dead  leaves  should  be  taken  from  them  as 
they  appear,  being  often  very  injurious  to  plants  potted  in 
this  way ;  for  the  decaying  leaves  being  in  a  state  of  putre- 
faction, create  an  impure  air,  which  is  imbibed  by  the  living 
leaves,  and  sickens  the  plants. 

9  I 


98  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

When  the  plants  are  well  rooted  in  the  pots  and  begin  to 
recover  their  strength,  they  are  to  be  gradually  exposed  to  the 
sun  and  their  natural  location,  in  order  that  they  may  recover 
their  natural  habit,  previous  to  their  removal  to  winter 
quarters. 

In  this  month,  the  principal  business  in  the  flower  garden 
is  keeping  it  clean  from  weeds,  gathering  all  kinds  of  flower 
seeds  as  they  ripen,  (which  see,  in  the  Appendix,  Art.  3,) 
protecting  plants  of  slender  habits,  and  training  and  tying 
vines  to  trellises.  This  is  the  proper  time  to  divide  and  pro- 
pagate many  kinds  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  where  wanted, 
and  if  any  alterations  or  new  arrangements  are  to  be  made  in 
the  flower  garden,  they  should  be  immediately  attended  to. 

AHT.  11.— October. 

The  principal  thing  to  be  attended  to  in  the  flower  garden 
this  month  is,  to  give  particular  attention  to  the  management 
of  the  green-house  plants  that  are  not  taken  into  the  green- 
house or  rooms.  Green-house  plants  should  be  protected  at 
night,  after  the  first  of  the  month,  in  most  parts  of  the  north- 
ern states  ;  for  the  first  frost,  which  is  always  to  be  expected 
at  this  time,  will  much  injure  them  if  exposed,  besides  spoil- 
ing their  appearance.  Any  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs,  as  Tulips, 
Hyacinths,  Lilies,  and  the  like,  may  be  planted,  from  the 
middle  to  the  end  of  the  month,  as  directed  under  their  pro- 
per heads. 

The  Carnation,  Polyanthus,  Daisy,  and  any  kind  of  half 
hardy  plants  in  pots,  that  are  intended  to  be  protected  through 
the  winter  in  trames,  should  be  placed  in  them  and  covered 
on  cold  frosty  nights. 

Every  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  Dahlia,  and  tender 
rooted  plants,  that  are  liable  to  be  injured  by  the  early  frost. 
It  is  a  good  method  to  protect  them,  by  laying  some  long 
manure  or  litter  about  the  roots,  to  guard  them  from  being 
injured  by  the  first  frost. 

This  month  is  also  a  favorable  time  for  transplanting  all 


ON  THE  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  99 

kinds  of  evergreens  ;  hardy  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants 
may  also  be  planted  to  advantage,  especially  in  a  dry  loca- 
tion; and,  indeed,  all  kinds  of  fall  planting  is  much  better  to 
be  done  at  this  time  than  later  in  the  fall,  as  the  plants  that 
are  at  this  time  planted  out  are  not  so  liable  to  be  injured  by 
much  wet  settling  about  and  rotting  their  roots,  besides  the 
advantages  of  their  making  new  spongioles,  or  tender  roots, 
which  draw  much  nutriment  to  the  plants,  and  prepare  them 
to  grow  vigorously  in  the  spring. 

ART.  12. — November. 

Supposing  the  green-house  plants  to  be  housed,  their  man- 
agement will  be  found  under  the  proper  head,  of  the  green- 
house department;  but  the  half  hardy  plants  in  the  frames 
will  require  to  be  attended  to,  by  giving  air,  covering  on  cold 
nights,  and  the  like,  as  recommended  under  the  head  of 
"  Garden  Frames."  Great  attention  must  be  paid  to  the 
Dahlia,  if  not  taken  from  the  ground,  that  it  be  not  frosted  at 
the  root;  indeed,  it  should  always  be  the  rule,  even  in  mild 
autumns,  to  take  the  roots  from  the  ground  the  first  of  this 
month;  but  if  left  after  that  time,  a  double  covering  should  be 
applied.  Little  will  require  to  be  done  in  the  garden,  except 
to  clear  away  any  kind  of  dead  leaves  or  decaying  plants, 
which  appear  to  be  a  nuisance,  and  every  thing  may  be  pre- 
pared for  the  winter. 

All  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs  that  were  not  planted  the  latter 
part  of  October,  may  be  planted  by  the  middle  of  this  month, 
and  if  any  new  plantations,  either  in  the  shrubbery  or  flower 
garden,  are  to  be  made  in  the  fall,  they  should  not  be  omitted 
any  longer  than  the  middle  of  the  month. 

Covering  plants,  and  protecting  shrubs. — About  the  20th 
of  the  month,  or  as  soon  as  the  winter  begins  to  close,  which 
will  vary  from  fifteen  to  fifty  days  in  different  parts  of  the 
States,  for  which  this  work  is  intended  to  be  adapted,  will  be 
a  proper  time  to  protect  all  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants,  by 
covering  them  on  their  crowns  with  long  manure,  or  if  leaves 


100         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

can  be  obtained,  they  will  answer  a  better  purpose.  Tender 
kinds  of  shrubs,  as  the  Double  Hibiscus,  Magnolia  purpurea^ 
&c.,  may  be  protected,  by  tying  up  the  branches  in  a  neat 
manner,  and  covering  them  over  with  straw,  and  tying  it 
neatly  around  them. — Which  see,  under  the  head  of  Covering 
and  Protecting  Plants. 

ART.  13. — December. 

Little  can  be  done  in  the  garden  this  month,  except  it  is  a 
very  mild  season,  when  the  covering  of  plants,  and  the  like, 
may  be  done,  as  directed  in  November.  For  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Green-house  and  Frames,  I  refer  the  reader  to  the 
articles  under  these  heads. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

On  the  Variations  and  Motions  of  Plants. 

AKT.  1.— Variations  of  Plants. 

IN  order  to  diversify  the  subjects  of  the  "  Companion,"  I 
have  introduced  several  that  are  not  altogether  pertaining  to 
culture ;  but  which  may  be  interesting  to  those  who  are  de- 
sirous of  being  made  acquainted  with  the  different  qualities 
and  variations  of  plants,  as  their  color,  monstrous  habits,  mo- 
tions, &c. 

ART.  2. — Color  of  Plants  and  Flowers. 

There  is  nothing  that  I  am  acquainted  with  in  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  that  is  more  changeable  and  deserving  of  notice  than 
the  coloring  of  plants ;  which  is  different  not  only  in  flowers, 
but  also  in  leaves,  roots,  seeds,  bark,  and,  indeed,  in  every 
part  of  them.  When  the  earth  is  clothed  with  vegetation  in 


VARIATIONS  -AKD,  WgtlDJO^  <ff   PLANTS.  101 


the  spring,  greett  is  the  predominant  color;  and  so  varied 
are  the  shades  of  this  general  vestment,  or  clothing,  that  it  is 
hardly  possible  to  find  two  different  varieties  of  plants  of  the 
same  shade  of  color.  This  general  clothing  of  plants  also 
undergoes  many  changes  during  the  season  from  spring  to 
autumn  ;  —  the  most  general  change  that  takes  place,  is  the 
expanding  of  the  leaf  of  most  plants,  when  the  color  is  com- 
monly of  a  light  green,  inclined  to  a  yellow,  and  the  forests 
have  at  that  time  a  tinge  of  yellow  in  their  appearance  ;  this 
coloring  is  soon  changed  into  a  deeper  green,  which,  when 
the  leaf  is  at  its  maturity,  is  then  at  its  deepest  color.  From 
the  maturity  of  the  leaf  to  its  decay,  or  dropping  from  the 
plant  —  which  is  shorter  or  longer  in  different  varieties  —  a 
gradual  change  takes  place,  from  a  deep  green  to  a  yellow,  in 
most  plants  ;  and  in  some  varieties  it  is  again  changed  to  a 
dark  red,  or  purple,  as  in  most  of  the  native  shrubs,  which  is 
owing  to  the  acid  they  contain.  Leaves  of  plants  are  also 
variegated  or  checkered  in  many  ways,  with  two  or  three 
distinct  colors,  which  is  exemplified  in  the  Amaranthus  tri- 
color, Variegated  Geraniums,  and  many  evergreens,  as  Hol- 
lies, Box,  &c.  Some  leaves  of  plants  have  distinct  colors  on 
each  side,  as  the  Tradescantia  discolor  ;  and  in  some  cases, 
the  color  of  plants  is  entirely  extracted  and  a  white  is  substi- 
tuted, which  is  caused  by  the  absence  of  light  and  air,  as  in 
the  case  of  blanched  Celery. 

Tn  the  flowers  of  plants,  many  changes  are  observable, 
from  their  first  expanding  to  their  decay.  The  calyx,  or 
covering  of  the  flower,  is  mostly  green;  —  there  is,  however, 
an  exception  to  this  rule  in  some  few  flowers,  as  the  Ear- 
drop, or  Fuschia  coccinea,  which  has  a  beautiful  scarlet 
calyx,  or  covering,  that  is  often  taken  for  the  flower  cups, 
which  are  purple  ;  and  the  changeable  part  of  the  Hydrangea 
hortensis,  is  nothing  more  than  a  changeable  calyx,  or  cover- 
ing, the  flowers  being  no  larger  than  a  pin's  head.  The 
petals,  or  flower  leaves,  are  the  most  changeable  ;  as  in  most 
flowers,  when  they  begin  to  expand,  their  petals  are  of  a  light 

12 


102  **3  ^oir^aoARnEjjt  COMPANION. 


green  color,  which,  on  being  expanded  and  exposed  to  the 
atmospheric  air,  become  red,  purple,  yellow  ',  or  any  color 
natural  to  them,  during  which  time  it  undergoes  many 
changes.  Flowers  are  also  variable  in  their  parts,  as  in  most 
cases  we  find  the  anthers,  which  contain  the  pollen,  are  of  a 
yellow  color,  and  the  styles,  which  support  them,  of  a  hyali- 
nus,  or  water  color.  The  flower  leaves,  or  petals,  are  also, 
in  many  cases,  mottled  or  variegated,  as  in  the  Geranium, 
Balsam,  Camellia,  and  many  others. 

In  taking  a  general  view  of  the  colors  of  plants,  it  will  be 
found  that  white  is  the  most  common  in  the  petals  of  spring 
flowers,  as  the  Snowdrop,  Wood  anemone,  Cherry,  Plum, 
&c.  ;  water  color  in  the  styles  and  stigma  of  flowers  ;  yellow 
in  the  heads  or  anthers  of  flowers,  and  in  the  petals  of  most 
compound  flowers,  as  the  Sunflower,  Coreopsis,  Hawkweed, 
and  most  autumnal  flowers  ;  black  is  most  common  in  seeds 
and  the  bark  of  roots  ;  blue,  red,  and  violet,  in  the  petals  of 
summer  flowers,  as  the  Rose,  Larkspur,  and  many  native 
plants  ;  red  is  also  very  common  in  acid  fruits  and  berries  ; 
and  green  predominates  in  leaves  and  in  the  calyx  of  plants. 

In  closing  the  present  article,  it  is  proper  to  add,  that  the 
color  of  flowers  varies  from  their  natural  or  primitive,  accord- 
ing to  the  location  they  are  placed  in  ;  and  by  observation  it 
will  be  found,  that  all  kinds  of  fulgid  flowers,  as  the  Double 
Lychnis,  Roses,  or  any  high  colored  ones,  require  to  be  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  and  air:  shade  generally  causes  most  flowers 
to  lose  their  deep  colors,  except  those  of  a  pure  white,  as  the 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  and  those  which  naturally  grow  in  shaded 
locations. 

ART.  3.  —  Double  Flowers. 

Double  flowers  are  exemplified  in  the  Double  Dahlia, 
Stock-gilliflower,  Rose,  and  Camellia;  they  are,  in  most 
cases,  the  result  of  luxuriance  in  culture,  or  other  causes,  by 
which  the  organs  of  generation  are  transformed  into  gaudy 
petals,  or  flower  leaves  ;  consequently,  such  flowers  cannot 


VARIATIONS   AND    MOTIONS   OF    PLANTS.  103 

possibly  produce  seed ;  their  varieties  have,  therefore,  to  be 
prolonged  by  propagation  of  cuttings,  roots,  and  layers. 

Nothing  is  less  constant  in  plants  than  double  flowers, 
which  is  fully  exemplified  in  the  Dahlia;  as  we  may  see  on 
the  same  plant,  perhaps  twenty  flowers  all  differently  formed : 
some  nearly  single,  with  the  organs  of  generation,  as  the  male 
and  female  parts,  with  a  yellow  centre;  others  approaching  a 
semi-double,  and  some  a  perfect  double  flower,  until  the  va- 
riety is  termed  " run  out"  which  is  to  say,  returned,  to  its 
primitive  state  of  a  single  flower.  This  sporting  of  flowers 
is  very  different  in  plants  of  the  same  family ;  for  we  see  in 
some  plants  that  almost  every  flower  is  perfectly  double,  as, 
for  instance,  in  the  Dahlia;  the  Countess  of  Liverpool  gene- 
rally forms  a  fine,  clear,  well-formed  double  flower;  whilst 
other  varieties  have  occasionally  a  fine  double  flower;  and 
some,  on  the  same  plant,  are  semi-double,  and  the  remainder 
nearly  single.  The  same  affinity  is  observable  in  many  kinds 
of  perennial  plants,  that  produce  double  flowers. 

In  annual  flowers,  as  the  Stock- gilliflower,  the  double 
flowers  are  more  perfect,  but  the  duration  is  shorter:  one 
year  only  it  can  be  said  to  continue,  although  it  is  often  pro- 
longed by  cuttings,  which  are  mostly  of  a  sickly  appearance. 
Whatever  may  be  the  value  of  double  flowers,  certain  it  is, 
that  they,  sooner  or  later,  will  cease  to  be  in  existence. 
The  primitive,  or  single  flowers,  are  the  only  varieties  that 
can  perpetuate  the  vegetable  kingdom  to  the  end  of  time. 
The  economy  of  nature  in  this  case,  as  in  all  others,  has 
given  a  variation,  that  too  much  sameness  may  not  cloy  our 
pleasure.  We,  for  instance,  in  some  double  flowers,  find 
them  continue  their  perfect  character  for  many  years  unal- 
tered, as  the  Double  White  Camellia;  in  others,  we  perceive 
a  continual  variation  for  a  few  years,  as  in  the  Dahlia,  and 
then  the  primitive  state  again  predominates.  In  other  deno- 
minations of  plants,  as  annuals,  a  yearly  variation  from  the 
single  to  the  double  flower  is  observable,  as  in  the  Stock-gil- 
liftower;  whilst  the  primitive,  or  single  flower,  at  all  times 


104         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

presents  the  same  form  and  number  of  parts,  and  is  perpe- 
tually renewed,  and  continued  in  its  natural  habit  and  quality. 

ART.  4. — Motion  of  Plants. 

The  most  general  motion  of  plants  that  takes  place,  as  a 
natural  change,  is  the  well  known  fact,  that  most  trees,  shrubs, 
and  the  lower  order  of  plants,  always  incline  toward  the  light. 
This  fact  is  observable  in  woods,  where  trees  grow  close 
together,  in  which  case  their  branches  always  incline  towards 
the  light  and  air,  as  the  vacant  places,  and  the  outsides. 
Plants  on  the  shelves  of  green-houses,  or  in  windows,  always 
incline  to  the  glass,  and  when  their  position  is  changed,  the 
leaves-  and  minor  branches  change  their  position  also,  and 
incline  to  the  light.  If  a  number  of  plants  are  placed  in  a 
dark  room,  in  different  parts,  where  there  is  a  small  window, 
each  plant  will  be  found  to  direct  its  position  in  a  direct  line 
to  such  window.  In  conclusion  of  this  part  of  the  subject,  it 
may  be  proper  to  state,  that  soft-wooded  plants  alter  their 
position,  on  being  changed,  sooner  than  those  of  a  hard- 
wooded  kind ;  therefore,  the  time  of  regaining  the  position 
of  any  plant  depends  on  its  nature. 

The  movements  or  motions  of  the  leaves  of  plants,  is  exem- 
plified in  many  different  ways.  If  a  branch  of  a  grape  vine 
is  turned  from  its  natural  position,  where  it  grows,  so  as  to 
turn  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves  to  the  light,  they  will  in  a 
few  days  regain  their  natural  position,  by  being  reversed  on 
their  footstalks.  This  movement  is  apparent  also  in  the 
leaves  of  most  kind  of  plants  when  reversed  from  their  natu- 
ral position,  which  they  again  resume,  in  a  shorter  or  longer 
time,  in  accordance  to  their  habit,  as  before  stated.  In  some 
varieties  of  plants,  the  leaves  fold  up  close  to  the  footstalk  in 
the  night.  This  motion  is  termed  by  botanists,  "  the  sleep 
of  plants,"  and  is  observable  in  some  varieties  of  Oxalis,  and 
many  of  the  winged-leaved  plants,  as  the  Acacia  lophanta, 
which  folds  its  leaves  close  to  the  stem  by  night,  and  unfolds 
them  at  the  approach  of  day.  The  same  movement  takes 


VARIATIONS    AND    MOTIONS    OF    PLANTS.  105 

place  if  such  plants  are  put  into  darkness  in  the  day  time. 
Some  plants  are  known  to  close  their  leaves  on  being  touched, 
as  the  Sensitive  plant;  and  some  leaves  are  put  in  motion 
by  the  most  gentle  breeze,  as  the  Aspen-tree,  the  leaves  of 
which  are  always  trembling  on  the  tree,  and  hence  the  name 
tremula.  In  flowers,  a  motion  is  observable  in  their  folding 
and  unfolding,  in  different  periods  of  the  day;  an  example  of 
this  is  observable  in  a  pretty  green-house  plant,  the  Oxalis 
versicolor,  which  opens  its  flowers  in  the  middle  of  the  day, 
when  the  sun  shines  on  it,  and  the  heat  is  above  sixty  degrees, 
but  closes  when  darkness  comes  on  at  night ;  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  the  same  motion  is  observable  if  the  sun  and  heat 
are  congenial,  but  if  not,  the  flowers  remain  folded.  The 
most  beautiful  motion  in  flowers  that  I  am  acquainted  with, 
is  exemplified  in  the  Edivardsia  grandiflora.  This  beautiful 
plant  expands  its  calyx,  which  is  cloven,  when  the  sun  shines 
strongly  on  it ;  from  between  the  calyx,  a  drop  of  nectar,  or 
honey  appears,  and  becomes  larger  as  the  sun  has  more  influ- 
ence ;  the  upper  petals  of  the  flower  then  ascend  to  catch  the 
honey,  and  protect  the  more  delicate  part  of  the  flower,  which 
in  time  fully  expands ;  but  so  soon  as  the  sun  withdraws,  the 
tender  parts  of  the  flower  close,  and  the  upper  petals  descend 
with  honey  adhering  to  them,  which  amasses  the  whole 
flower  in  nectar,  a  rapid  decomposition  takes  place,  and  in  a 
few  hours  the  flowers  drop  from  the  plants,  and  putrefactior 
immediately  follows.  This  fact  accounts  for  the  difficult} 
of  obtaining  seed  from  the  plant  in  question. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

On  Spring  and  Fall  Management* 

ART.  1. — Spring  Management,  Pruning,  &c. 

WHEN  the  snow  begins  to  disappear  in  the  spring,  the 
shrubbery  and  flower  garden  may  be  often  overlooked,  and 
some  of  the  plants  and  shrubs  that  have  much  covering  over 
them,  may  have  a  part  of  it  taken  off:  for  it  often  happens, 
that  plants  being  too  much  covered  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
make  a  feeble  growth,  and  are  much  weakened  and  injured 
thereby  when  fully  exposed ;  we  should,  therefore,  uncover 
all  kinds  of  plants  and  shrubs  by  degrees,  as  the  spring  ad- 
vances, for,  by  either  exposing  them  too  soon,  or  keeping 
them  covered  too  long,  we  cause  them  to  make  a  weak  and 
tender  growth. 

When  the  snow  is  all  gone,  the  garden  may  be  cleansed  of 
all  kinds  of  covering  and  rubbish  that  have  collected  during 
the  winter,  and  every  thing  should  have  a  neat,  cleanly  ap- 
pearance. The  grass  plat  may  also  have  a  good  raking,  in 
order  to  remove  from  it  all  dead  leaves  and  decaying  sub- 
stances, which  often  deter  the  young  growth  of  grass  from 
coming  up  in  a  regular  manner;  and  the  consequence  is,  that 
it  seldom  has  a  handsome  appearance  during  the  summer 
season.  For  a  general  explanation  of  the  planting  of  trees, 
sowing  seeds,  &c.,  I  refer  the  reader  to  their  proper  heads, 
in  the  Monthly  Calendar. 

Pruning  and  training.- — The  earliest  opportunity  should 
be  taken  to  prune  and  train  all  kinds  of  shrubs,  vines,  creep- 
ers, and  the  like.  In  this  operation,  a  few  leading  principles 
are  requisite  to  be  known,  and  the  thing  is  so  simple  and  easy, 
that  any  intelligent  person  can  perform  it  in  the  most  accu- 
rate manner. 

The  first  thing  to  be  observed  in  pruning  any  kind  of  trees 

106 


SPRING  AND   FALL   MANAGEMENT.  107 

or  shrubs,  is  to  take  particular  notice  of  the  natural  shape  or 
habit  of  the  plant  to  be  pruned.  This  will  be  found  to  be 
different  in  almost  every  different  kind  of  plants ;  for  instance, 
in  some  plants  we  find  them  naturally  to  assume  an  upright 
habit ;  in  others,  a  straggling ;  and  in  some,  a  weeping.  The 
first  is  exemplified  in  the  Hose  of  Sharon;  the  second,  in  the 
Rose  and  Snowberry ;  and  the  third,  in  the  Weeping  Wil- 
low, Cherry,  and  the  like. 

To  retain  these  habits,  and  improve  the  symmetry  of  plants 
in  such  a  manner  that  the  sun  and  air  may  have  as  much 
as  possible  a  regular  access  to  every  pait  of  them,  is  the 
leading  principle  of  pruning;  for  although  in  many  cases  the 
natural  habits  of  shrubs  and  plants  are  cramped  into  unnatu- 
ral forms,  in  order  to  give  variety  of  effect,  it  cannot  be  re- 
commended to  be  followed  as  a  general  rule ;  for  whenever 
the  natural  habits  of  trees  or  plants  are  distorted  into  unna- 
tural forms  or  positions,  it  has  more  the  appearance  of 
mockery  than  reality.  Nature,  in  this  and  every  other  case, 
should  be  as  much  as  possible  copied  and  assisted, but  never 
cramped  into  unnatural  forms  and  positions. 

The  natural  habits  of  the  plant  being  noticed,  the  next  thing 
is  to  examine  and  cut  out  all  the  dead  wood.  In  this  opera- 
tion, the  pruner  must  not  be  deceived,  and  disfigure  the  plant 
by  cutting  out  such  shoots  as  will  require  to  be  left  to  fill  the 
vacancies  of  the  dead  wood  in  the  growing  season.  The 
dead  wood  being  taken  out,  the  next  thing  is  to  prune  the 
plant  in  a  regular  manner,  by  cutting  out  all  the  weakly 
shoots,  and  thinning  in  such  a  manner  that  the  sun  and  air 
have  a  free  access  to  every  part :  all  long  straggling  shoots 
should  be  taken  off,  that  the  shrubs  or  vines  may  have  a 
regular,  compact  appearance.  In  performing  this  operation, 
sharp  knives  and  instruments  should  be  used,  that  the  wounds 
may  be  cut  clean  and  heal  freely. 

Training  all  kinds  of  vines,  as  Honeysuckles,  Clematis, 
Bignonia,  and  the  like,  may  be  done  with  despatch,  in  order 
that  every  thing  may  have  a  neat  and  cleanly  appearance. 


108  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

The  training  of  vines  is  simply  done  by  tying  them  neatly 
with  bass,  or  other  strings,  in  such  a  manner  that  every  part 
is  equally  divided  at  a  regular  distance,  and  to  allow  a  suffi- 
cient space  for  the  summer  wood  to  grow,  and  be  trained 
between  the  shoots  laid  in  at  this  season. 

ART.  2. — Fall  Management  and  Covering  Plants. 

We  should  be  cautious  that  the  early  frost  does  not  destroy 
the  Dahlia  roots,  and  tender  green-house  plants,  before  they 
are  covered,  or  housed :  I  mention  this  the  more  particularly, 
as  it  is  very  often  the  case,  especially  with  young  beginners 
in  flower-gardening,  that  tender  plants  are  left  too  long  un- 
protected, and  thus  are  much  injured,  if  not  totally  destroyed. 

The  potting  of  plants,  putting  them  in  the  frames,  and  the 
like,  are  spoken  of  under  their  proper  heads,  to  which  I  refer 
the  reader. 

The  covering,  or  protecting  of  plants,  should  be  attended  to 
so  soon  as  the  frost  begins  to  be  severe.  The  Box  edgings 
may  be  protected  by  sea-weed,  hemlock  brush,  long  manure, 
old  tan,  or  other  light  covering.  Merely  to  keep  off  the  sun 
from  scalding  Box  edging  will  be  sufficient,  as  it  is  more  inju- 
red by  the  sun  thawing  and  bursting  the  sap  vessels  than  by 
being  severely  frozen ;  and  hence  it  is  that  the  leaves  of  Box 
edgings  are  often  scalded  in  the  spring. 

The  same  rule  that  is  here  given  with  regard  to  Box  edg- 
ing, is  applicable  to  covering  most  other  plants.  The  princi- 
pal object  is  to  protect  them  from  the  sun:  for  it  is  not  the 
severe  frost  that  injures  them,  so  much  as  the  sun,  which, 
when  it  exerts  its  full  power  on  them,  bursts  their  veins  in  a 
frozen  state,  and  causes  the  plants  to  sicken,  and  in  many 
cases  to  die.  Many  plants,  as  bulbs  and  herbaceous  plants, 
are  often  materially  injured  in  the  spring  by  being  too  thickly 
covered  in  a  warm  temperature,  and  commencing  to  grow 
when  excluded  from  air;  and  when  uncovered,  the  leaves 
are  made  tender,  and  suffer  very  much  on  being  exposed  to 
the  sun  and  air. 


SPRIXF    AND   FALL   MANAGEMENT.  109 

In  many  cases,  the  flower  borders,  if  not  in  too  conspicuous 
a  place,  would  be  much  better  if  the  stalks  of  herbaceous  and 
other  plants  were  not  cut  down  in  the  fall ;  for  there  is  no 
better  protection  than  the  stalks  of  plants,  and  especially  if 
leaves  can  be  obtained  from  woods  or  elsewhere  and  put 
around  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  in  which  case  the  stalks  will 
keep  the  light  leaves  in  their  places  until  the  snow  binds  them 
down.  .Recollect  that  nature  has  given  leaves  and  stalks  to 
plants  as  a  natural  covering,  and  therefore  they  are  best 
adapted  to  the  purpose. 

Covering  Vines  and  Running  Roses. — The  Multiflora 
Rose,  and  other  tender  kinds,  require  covering  during  winter  in 
some  parts  of  the  States,  as  do  many  kinds  of  running  vines. 
This  may  be  effected  by  taking  the  plants  entirely  away  from 
the  trellis,  arbor,  or  the  like  ;  then,  with  bass  matting  or  other 
string,  tie  them  together  compactly,  and  lay  the  whole  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  where  it  may  be  fastened  with  hooked 
sticks  or  other  means ;  the  wood  will  require  then  to  be  co- 
vered over  two  or  three  inches  thick  with  leaves,  long  manure 
or  any  thing  that  will  keep  it  from  being  exposed  to  the 
weather.  In  this  state  it  may  lay  until  the  time  of  uncovering 
in  the  spring. 

Covering  monthly  Roses  and  half  hardy  Shntbs  with 
Straw. — The  best  method  to  perform  this  business,  is  to 
drive  down  a  stake  near  the  centre  of  the  plant,  and  about  the 
height  of  it ;  this  done,  collect  all  the  shoots  and  tie  them 
neatly  around  the  stake,  at  three  or  four  places,  with  bass 
matting,  osier  twigs,  or  other  strings ;  this  done,  take  a  bundle 
of  wheat,  or  other  straight  straw,  and  place  a  quantity  neatly 
around  the  bush,  butt  end  downwards,  then  bind  the  straw 
with  strings,  in  three  or  four  places  around  the  plant,  in  a 
snug  manner,  as  directed  before,  and  place  a  shovel  or  two 
of  good  rotten  manure  around  the  roots,  to  keep  the  straw 
compact,  and  the  intense  frost  from  the  roots  of  the  plant. 

Herbaceous  plants  may  be  protected  by  covering  around 
them  with  rotten  leaves,  long  manure,  old  tan,  or  any  light 

K 


110          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

covering,  about  an  inch  or  two  deep,  which  may  remain  to 
the  time  of  uncovering  in  the  spring.  This  method  may  also 
be  applied  to  the  Monthly  Rose,  which  preserves  the  roots 
and  crown  of  the  plant  from  severe  frost,  and  will  answer 
equally  as  well  as  the  covering  with  straw,  .where  the  top  of 
the  plant  is  not  an  object  of  consideration  in  being  protected; 
and  this  in  many  cases  will  be  lost,  even  when  covered  with 
straw,  if  the  wood  is  not  well  ripened  before  the  winter  closes 
severely. 

When  plants  are  covered  too  early  in  the  fall,  they  are 
often  much  injured,  by  the  wood  or  crown  of  them  becoming 
soft  in  warm  changes ;  and  in  some  cases  herbaceous  plants 
will  begin  to  grow  at  this  unnatural  season,  by  which  they 
are  much  injured  in  their  flowering  in  the  spring.  The  great 
criterion  in  this  matter  should  be,  to  have  the  wood  and  every 
part  of  such  plants  as  much  hardened  as  possible  previous  to 
the  covering  of  them,  in  order  that  they  may  withstand  the 
severity  of  the  winter  with  the  least  possible  injury. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


On  the  Summer  Management  of  Pot  Plants  and  Garden 
Frames. 


ART.  1.— Of  Pot  Plants. 

It  is  not  without  reason  that  many  persons  complain  of  the 
unsuccessful  attempts  to  cultivate  green-house,  and  tender 
plants,  in  pots  during  summer.  The  error  may,  however,  be 
easily  detected,  and  a  remedy  effected  in  most  plants,  by  the 
following  items. 

To  be  clear  on  the  subject,  I  wish  it  to  be  understood,  that 


POT  PLANTS  AND  GARDEN  FRAMES.          Ill 

the  summer  and  winter  treatment  of  the  plants  in  question  is 
something  different  in  this  climate,  and  this  being  often  con- 
troverted, is  the  principal  error  complained  of.  For  instance, 
in  summer,  most  plants  require  large  pots,  with  a  compost  of 
good  mellow  loam  and  well  rotted  manure,  or  leaf  mould, 
with  a  little  coarse  sand,  to  give  a  moderate  drainage  to  the 
fibrous  roots,  in  order  that  the  earth  may  not  become  saturated 
by  heavy  rains,  or  over-watering: — the  object  should  be,  to 
keep  the  roots  of  plants  in  summer,  cool  and  moist,  and  in  a 
temperature  as  uniform  as  possible,  without  much  repeated 
watering,  that  washes  away  the  nutriment  contained  in  the 
soil,  which  the  plants  ought  to  imbibe.  In  the  winter,  plants 
require  small  pots,  to  be  well  drained,  and  their  roots  in  a 
moderately  warm  and  dry  state. 

It  is  a  great  item  of  economy  for  florists  to  cultivate  flowers 
in  small  pots,  in  order  to  grow  and  accommodate  a  great 
number  in  a  small  space,  and  to  give  the  pots  a  quantity  of 
drainage  at  the  bottom,  in  order  that,  when  over-watered,  the 
superfluous  moisture  may  be  carried  off  when  in  a  flowering 
state,  and  in  this  state  the  plants  are  offered  for  sale.  In 
their  new  home,  the  plants  are  often  exposed  to  the  hot  sun, 
or  where  bricks  or  other  dry  materials  attract  the  sun,  and 
cause  their  leaves  to  droop ;  in  this  state  the  earth  in  the  pots 
becomes  dry,  and  often  so  much  contracted  as  to  leave  a  cavity 
between  the  ball  of  earth  and  the  pot,  in  such  a  manner  that 
when  watered  it  passes  through  between  the  earth  and  the 
pot,  and  leaves  the  plant  as  dry  as  fine  dust.  In  this  state, 
the  fibrous  roots  between  the  inside  of  the  pot  and  the  ball  of 
earth  perish  with  drought ;  the  plant  continues  to  live  in  a 
sickly  state  during  the  summer,  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  and 
if  over-watered,  when  taken  into  winter  quarters,  it  finally 
perishes — owing  to  the  mismanagement  it  has  received  in 
summer. 

It  should  be  a  general  rule  with  those  who  purchase  plants 
in  spring,  to  repot  many  kinds  into  larger  pots,  for  them  to 
thrive  well  during  the  summer,  such  as,  all  kinds  of  Roses, 


112          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

Geraniums,  Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  Fuschias,  and,  indeed,  all 
kinds  that  require  to  grow  during  the  summer.  They  will 
all  do  well  in  the  compost  recommended  for  green-house 
plants.  By  this  method,  and  keeping  them  properly  watered, 
and  in  a  location  where  they  are  partly  excluded  from  the 
mid-day  sun,  plants  will  generally  flourish  satisfactorily,  with 
a  little  moderate  attention. 

Where  ample  space  can  be  appropriated  to  plants,  it  is  a 
good  method  to  turn  them  into  the  flower  borders ;  which 
see,  under  the  head  of  Plunging  Green-house  Plants  in  the 
Flower  Borders. 

ART.  2. — The  Management  of  Garden  Frames. 

In  flower  gardens,  where  choice  collections  of  plants  are 
always  fostered,  it  is  proper  to  have  two  or  three  garden 
frames,  for  the  protection  of  the  half  hardy  kinds  of  herba- 
ceous plants,  as  the  Carnation,  Polyanthus,  Auricula,  &c. 
The  frames  for  this  purpose  may  be  of  almost  any  dimensions, 
but  those  of  a  moderate  size  are  the  best — say  of  three  sashes 
from  nine  to  twelve  feet  long,  and  from  four  to  five  feet  wide. 
The  location  of  the  frame  should  be  where  it  can  have  the 
full  influence  of  the  sun ;  it  should  be  well  protected  from  the 
cold  winds  by  a  board  fence  or  otherwise.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  the  place  is  chosen  where  it  is  perfectly  dry,  or 
the  snow  water  running  into  it  will  rot  and  destroy  the  plants. 

Having  the  ground  and  frame  thus  prepared,  about  the 
middle  of  September  a  lining  of  leaves,  or  manure,  may  be 
placed  around  it,  of  about  two  or  three  feet  wide.  In  the 
bottom  of  the  frame,  some  cinders  or  ashes  may  be  laid,  to 
keep  it  dry,  and  to  keep  the  worms  from  working  up  the 
earth  among  the  pots.  Place  the  plants  in  a  regular  manner 
in  the  frame,  the  largest  at  the  back,  and  the  smallest  in  the 
front;  be  careful  that  they  stand  level,  in  order  that  when 
watered  the  water  may  not  wash  off  at  one  side. 

The  management  of  the  frame  in  the  fall,  is  simply  to 
water  the  plants  when  they  require  it ;  to  pick  off  all  the 


THE   SHRUBBERY.  113 

dead  leaves,  and  keep  it  in  every  way  neat  and  clean.  The 
sashes  must  be  regularly  taken  off  in  the  morning  and  closed 
at  night,  on  fine  days,  until  the  cold  weather  appears,  when 
they  must  be  left  on  at  all  times,  excepting  fine,  mild  days, 
when  they  are  to  be  taken  off,  in  order  to  air  and  strengthen 
the  plants. 

When  the  weather  sets  in  severe,  the  frame  must  be  lined 
around,  two  or  three  feet  thick,  and  as  high  as  the  glass,  wilh 
hot  horse  manure ;  and  the  lights  must  be  regularly  covered 
at  night  with  shutters,  boards,  mats,  or  the  like,  and  uncovered 
in  the  morning,  unless  the  frost  is  too  severe,  in  which  case 
the  covering  may  be  kept  on  all  day. 

During  the  winter,  the  interior  of  the  frame  should  often  be 
looked  over,  on  a  fine  day,  and  divested  of  any  dead  leaves, 
or  other  nuisance.  As  the  spring  advances,  more  air  may  be 
given,  and  the  plants  hardened  by  degrees  to  plunge  into  the 
flower  garden,  as  directed  under  the  proper  head. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Tlie  Shrubbery. 

THE  shrubbery  is  so  nearly  allied  to  the  flower  garden, 
that  in  a  work  professedly  treating  of  the  latter,  a  particular 
notice  of  the  former  subject  is  required.  Indeed  it  is  rare 
that  a  flower  garden  has  a  good  and  natural  appearance  with- 
out the  presence  of  the  shrubbery,  either  in  forming  an  out- 
line on  the  margin,  or  occupying  a  prominent  situation  at  the 
end,  for  the  convenience  of  a  shady  retreat,  or  other  useful 
purpose.  Shrubs  are  either  deciduous  or  evergreen;  the 
former  are  exemplified  in  the  lilac,  double  flowering  almond 
and  snowberry ;  the  latter  in  the  Kalmia  or  American 
10  K2 


114         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

laurel  and  arbor  vitse,  and  those  plants  that  are  always 
clothed  with  leaves,  and  hence  the  name  evergreen. 

Upon  a  careful  observation  of  the  general  method  of  lay 
ing  out  flower  gardens,  it  will  be  seen  that  there  is  too  much 
sameness  in  their  appearance,  arising  from  the  neglect  to 
appropriate  a  part  of  the  ground  to  ornamental  and  flowering 
shrubs.  This  I  imagine  to  be  chiefly  owing  to  the  geome- 
trical or  Dutch  system  being  mostly  followed  in  laying  out 
flower  gardens :  and  hence  a  method  has  been  adopted  that 
is  proper  and  natural  to  a  foreign  climate,  but  has  little  claim 
upon  good  taste  in  this  country,  where  climate  and  local  cir- 
cumstances are  so  opposite.  It  is  a  well  known  fact,  that  the 
Dutch  are  the  most  successful  cultivators  of  the  tulip,  the 
hyacinth,  and  most  other  kinds  of  bulbous  rooted  plants,  in 
the  known  world ;  and  it  is  also  known,  that  the  soil  and 
situation  in  which  they  are  grown  are  of  a  humid  nature, 
which  is  congenial  to  most  kinds  of  hardy  bulbous  rooted 
plants.  Such  local  circumstances,  united  with  industry  and 
intelligence,  have  put  the  Dutch  florist  in  possession  of  an 
annual  income  from  bulbous  flower  roots  of  a  very  large 
amount,  which  it  is  probable  will  not  be  equalled  by  any 
other  country  for  ages.  But  the  climate  of  America  is  not 
favorable  to  the  culture  of  bulbs  to  a  great  extent,  owing  to 
the  soil  and  atmosphere  being  more  dry  in  the  spring  and 
summer  season :  on  the  other  hand,  hardy,  hard  wooded 
shrubs,  as  the  rose,  double  flowering  almond,  lilac,  &c.,  are 
well  adapted  to  our  soil  and  climate,  and  flourish  extremely 
well  in  the  western  and  northern  states.  The  native 
varieties  of  beautiful  shrubs,  for  which  this  country  is  so 
eminently  celebrated,  by  the  European  horticulturists  and 
amateurs,  are  also  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  shrubbery,  and 
are  highly  deserving  a  more  general  introduction  into  the 
flower  gardens  and  foregrounds  of  country  residences.  It  is 
greatly  to  be  hoped  that  the  present  good  taste  and  enlight- 
ened state  of  horticultural  improvement  in  every  department, 
will  be  the  means  of  arousing  the  attention  of  every  lover 


THE    SHRUBBERY.  115 

of  native  scenery  to  the  culture  and  cherishing  our  native 
American  Flora.  This  method  will  at  once  create  a  taste 
for  cultivating  native  plants  and  flowers,  and  facilitate  a  prac- 
tical knowledge  of  their  habits  and  location,  in  a  natural 
state.  The  most  pleasant  associations  that  my  early  days 
ever  have  and  ever  will  hold  in  recollection,  are  in  the  stray- 
ing in  search  of  native  plants  for  my  little  parterre ;  each 
succession  of  flowers,  from  the  primrose  to  the  fall  flowers, 
were  eagerly  collected,  with  sisters  and  brothers  in  infantile 
unison ;  and  I  am  certain  that  when  the  youthful  mind  is 
thus  employed,  it  imbibes  the  most  noble  principles  it  is 
capable  of  comprehending. 

I  recommend  that  shrubbery  be  more  frequently  planted 
on  the  margins  of  lawns,  the  outsides  of  the  flower  garden, 
and  for  clumps  on  extensive  grass  plats,  to  give  a  variety ; 
and  indeed  in  all  kinds  of  foregrounds  and  side  entrances  of 
almost  any  denomination.  To  residences  on  the  main  road 
and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  cities,  shrubbery  can  with 
every  propriety  be  introduced  on  the  side  wings  of  the  lawn 
and  carriage  roads ;  and  in  many  cases,  if  a  belt  or  border 
of  some  six  or  eight  feet  wide  of  shrubbery  were  planted  in 
front  next  to  the  road  that  passes  such  places,  it  would  add 
much  to  the  beauty  and  value  of  the  property.  In  many 
places  of  this  description  the  front  entrances  are  planted 
altogether  with  forest  trees,  as  the  balsam  fir,  sugar  maple, 
horse  chestnut,  ailanthus,  catalpa,  and  similar  tall  growing 
kinds,  which  when  grown  to  the  full  size,  give  a  very 
heavy  and  gloomy  appearance,  where  a  lively  variation  should 
have  the  preference.  There  can  be  no  objection,  however, 
to  a  few  ornamental  trees  being  planted  in  front  of  such 
houses,  or  even  mingled  with  the  shrubbery,  and  particularly 
if  so  managed  as  to  form  a  screen  or  outline  to  protect  the 
building  from  the  cold  winds :  trees  so  situated  serve  the 
double  purpose  of  shelter  and  ornament.  In  planting  shrubs 
of  every  denomination,  the  general  rule  should  be,  to  place 
the  plants  so  that  their  habit  and  appearance  will  be  really 


116          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ornamental  and  at  the  same  time  subserve  (or  at  least  seem 
to)  some  useful  end:  for  instance,  the  taller  kinds,  as  the 
lilac,  snow-ball,  and  the  like,  are  the  most  proper  to  cover 
board  fences  and  for  the  back  part  of  shrubberies ;  the  more 
dwarf  kinds,  as  the  double  flowering  almond,  roses,  mcze- 
reon,  and  so  on,  for  the  front  or  facing.  There  is  also  some 
taste  required  in  mixing  the  varieties  of  foliage  and  habits  of 
the  different  kinds  to  be  planted,  which  can  only  be  acquired 
by  due  observance  of  shrubs  when  in  full  foliage.  The 
-planting  should  be  so  managed  that  when  grown  up  the  out- 
line is  natural,  that  is  to  say  not  too  formal ;  but  here  and 
there  a  little  broken  by  some  tall  shrub  growing  above  the 
rest.  In  the  front  of  such  plantations  a  part  of  them  should 
be  planted  with  herbaceous  and  other  kinds  of  plants,  which, 
when  nicely  mingled  with  the  shrubs,  form  a  pretty  contrast 
in  the  flowering  season.  Indeed  the  margin  of  a  shrubbery 
is  the  best  situation  where  such  plants  would  flourish  and 
show  to  good  advantage,  besides  giving  a  fine  finish  to  the 
whole. 


CHAPTER  X. 

City  and  Native  American  Flower  Garden. 

ART.  1.— The  City  Flower  Garden. 

THE  flower  garden  attached  to  city  residences,  when  well 
managed,  embraces  many  useful  features  relative  to  health 
and  pleasure,  and  in  every  way  conveys  to  the  proprietor  a 
moral  lesson  in  natural  history  of  the  most  refined  nature.  I 
trust  that  every  intelligent  person  is  aware  that  the  continual 
working  of  the  ground,  attached  to  city  residences,  is,  in  every 
way,  conducive  to  the  health  of  the  inmates,  by  dispelling  and 
rectifying  the  impure  vapor,  arising  from  smoke  and  other 


CITY   AND    NATIVE    AMERICAN    FLOWER   GARDEN.          117 

causes,  that  condenses  and  settles  on  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
which  is  purified  if  the  earth  is  frequently  turned  up ;  and,  in 
conjunction  with  this,  the  benefit  arising  is  of  common  inte- 
rest, in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  ground  kept  in  such 
order,  in  any  city  or  town. 

Phytologists  and  philosophers  inform  us  that  the  vegetable 
kingdom  exhales  certain  gases  conducive  to  the  health  of 
mankind ;  and  hence  we  infer  the  utility  of  trees  and  plants 
in  cities,  especially  when  we  take  into  consideration  their 
beauty  and  cooling  shade.  Nature,  the  best  criterion,  con- 
vinces us  of  the  use  of  plants  and  flowers,  the  earth  being 
covered  in  a  measure  with  them ;  no  doubt,  for  a  wise  pur- 
pose— the  welfare  of  the  animal  kingdom. 

In  order  to  derive  pleasure  from  a  fine  collection  of  flowers, 
it  is  necessary  to  pay  proper  attention  to  their  varied  and 
successive  flowering;  so  much  the  more  inviting  would 
they  appear  to  the  admirer;  and  the  sure  guide  to  this  grati- 
fication, is  to  furnish  the  flower  garden  with  a  suitable  col- 
lection of  plants.  These  are  the  inducements  to  the  culture 
of  the  city  flower  garden;  and  that  a  moral  lesson  may  be 
derived  from  flowers,  is  proved,  from  the  researches  of  the 
most  learned  philosophers,  to  the  untaught  prattling  of  the 
humble  cottage. 

The  fragrance  of  the  Rose  is  admired  by  all;  its  structure 
gives  a  pleasing  lesson  to  the  young  botanist,  or  naturalist; 
to  the  artist,  it  furnishes  a  superior  copy  for  many  purposes; 
and  the  apothecary  extracts  many  essential  oils  and  waters 
from  its  petals,  which  are  also  used  in  a  dry  state,  as  con- 
serves, and  for  various  other  purposes.  Nor  is  the  ffliife 
Lily,  in  its  purity,  less  deserving  a  place  in  every  city  flower 
garden.  Its  fragrance,  together  with  its  pure  white  petals,  is 
produced  from  bulbs,  which  are  valuable  in  cases  of  swellings 
and  wounds. 

Flowers  contain,  also,  in  their  primitive  state,  male  and 
female  parts,  covered  with  the  petals,  or  colored  leaves, 
which  are,  in  their  infant  state,  enveloped  in  a  calyx,  or  outer 


118          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

covering,  by  which  they  are  protected  or  supported  when 
expanded.  Most  flowers  have  also  an  equal  proportion,  and 
an  exact  number  of  parts,  in  many  thousands  of  blossoms ; 
and  in  these  there  is  every  thing  to  please,  and  nothing  to 
offend,  the  most  refined  or  chaste  observers. 

In  concluding  this  subject,  it  may  be  necessary  to  offer  a 
few  remarks  on  the  management  of  the  city  garden.  I  ear- 
nestly recommend  it  to  be  kept  neat  and  clean,  in  order  to 
promote  the  health  of  the  plants,  and  of  their  owners.  It 
should  be  often  worked,  to  create  a  clear,  sweet,  healthy  air ; 
and  at  different  times  fresh  mould  should  be  added,  to  give 
new  vigor  to  the  plants ;  much  manure  is  seldom  requisite, 
as  city  gardens  are  often  too  rich,  owing  to  the  quantity  of 
lime,  ashes,  and  the  like,  incorporated  with  the  soil. 

The  grass  plat  requires  to  be  often  mowed,  for  conve- 
nience, neatness,  and  the  well-being  of  the  grass. 

The  plan  of  the  garden,  I  recommend  to  be  such  as  to  give 
ease,  with  variety ;  so  as  to  accommodate  various  plants  and 
shrubs ;  the  walks  to  be  of  clean  gravel,  with  an  edging  of 
box,  or  neat  dwarf  plants,  as  the  Thrift,  Dwarf  Iris,  Moss 
Pink,  and  such  like. 

The  trellises,  arbors,  walls,  fences,  and  so  on,  should  be 
covered  with  vines  and  creepers,  so  that  the  whole  may  have 
a  corresponding  appearance. 

In  laying  out  flower  gardens,  let  them  be  so  managed,  that 
many  kinds  of  flowering  shrubs  may  be  introduced;  for  this 
purpose,  beds  should  be  appropriated.  The  most  common 
error  in  laying  out  city  gardens  is,  that  they  are  too  much  cut 
up  into  small  figures,  and  consequently,  shrubs,  so  essential 
to  give  a  variety,  cannot  be  admitted.  Nothing  should  be 
cramped,  but  every  thing  should  have  an  open,  easy  appear- 
ance in  the  flower  garden.  (See  Part  I,  Chapter  I,  "  On 
Laying  out  the  Flower  Garden.") 


CITY   AND   NATIVE    AMERICAN   FLOWER   GARDEN.         119 

AHT.  2. — The  Native  American  Flower  Garden. 

Native  plants  and  flowers  are  those  which  are  found  grow- 
ing spontaneously,  without  the  aid  of  culture.  Perhaps  no 
country  has  a  finer  or  more  numerous  collection  of  hardy 
flowering  plants  than  the  United  Slates;  indeed,  no  collection 
can  be  said  to  be  complete  without  the  American  Flora, 
which  has  engaged  the  attention  of  horticulturists  to  such  an 
extent  in  Europe,  that  grounds  have  been  prepared  and 
adapted  for  American  plants ;  and  it  is  greatly  to  be  hoped, 
that  the  present  good  taste  for  gardening  in  this  country, 
will  be  the  means  of  introducing  the  many  pretty  varieties 
of  flowering  shrubs  that  are  to  be  found  in  every  part  of  the 
Union,  particularly  the  beautiful  families  of  Spireas,  Mag- 
nolia,  rfzelias,  Kalmias,  Rhododendrons,  and  many  others, 
that  are  much  wanted  in  the  flower  garden. 

There  are  also  a  very  numerous  collection  of  hardy  her- 
baceous plants,  indigenous  to  America,  deserving  the  attention 
of  the  lovers  of  flowers,  of  which  the  beautiful  family  of 
Phlox  forms  a  prominent  character,  its  different  varieties  be- 
ing distributed  in  every  part  of  the  Union ;  some  of  which 
completely  cover  and  decorate  thousands  of  acres  of  the 
western  prairies  in  the  spring.  The  Penstemon,  Coreopsis, 
Rhudbeckia,  Liatris,  are  also  pretty  families  of  native  plants, 
abounding  in  almost  all  parts  of  the  Union.  There  are  also 
several  beautiful  varieties  of  Orchideous  plants,  that  are  na- 
tives, as  the  Cypripediitm,  or  Mockasin  plants ;  the  Lady 
Slipper,  of  which  there  are  two  or  three  beautiful  varieties,  to 
be  found  on  the  borders  of  groves,  and  on  the  prairies,  near 
the  barrens.  To  these  may  be  added,  several  pretty  varieties 
of  native  bulbous  rooted  plants,  particularly  the  Lily,  of  which 
the  Philadelphicum  and  Canadense  are  fine  specimens  ;  and 
are  found  growing  on  the  borders  of  groves,  and  margins  of 
woods,  in  most  parts  of  the  Union.  To  these,  the  beautiful 
genus  of  Trillium  is  also  found  in  shady  groves ;  and  with  it 
the  Orchis,  of  many  varieties,  are  to  be  found  growing  spon- 
taneously hi  most  parts  of  the  Union. 


120         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

It  would  far  exceed  my  prescribed  limits  to  give  a 
descriptive  list  of  the  many  varieties  of  plants  that  deserve  a 
place  in  the  native  flower  garden.  I  have  therefore  noted 
those  which  are  most  deserving  of  culture,  by  prefixing  N.  P. 
in  the  Descriptive  List,  under  the  different  heads  of  shrubs, 
herbaceous  plants,  &c. ;  and,  as  in  every  section  of  this 
country,  there  are  to  be  found  native  plants  adapted  to  their 
peculiar  situation,  I  recommend  that  such  as  are  pretty  be 
selected,  and  planted  as  similar  as  possible  to  their  natural 
location.  This  method  will  at  once  create  a  taste  for  culti- 
vating native  plants  and  flowers,  and  facilitate  a  practical 
knowledge  of  their  habits  and  location,  in  a  natural  state. 
Nothing  can  be  a  more  inviting  appendage  to  the  country 
residence,  where  a  sufficient  quantity  of  ground  can  be  ap- 
propriated, than  a  plat  converted  into  an  American  flower 
garden ;  especially  on  the  banks  of  rivers  and  streams,  as 
those  of  the  Hudson,  Ohio,  Mississippi,  and  many  others, 
from  which  water  might  be  introduced.  In  such  situations, 
every  variety  of  native  plants  might  be  commodiously  planted, 
and  grown  to  a  high  state  of  perfection. 

The  best  method  of  laying  out  such  gardens,  is  to  manage 
the  water  so  as  to  form  a  narrow  strip,  or  stream,  two  or  three 
feet  deep,  and  if  a  natural  stream  can  be  had,  the  better:  at 
the  end,  an  artificial  pond  might  be  made,  at  a  trifling  ex- 
pense, for  growing  the  Water  Lily,  and  native  aquatics; 
and  also  for  the  purpose  of  introducing  gold  and  silver  fishes. 

The  south  margin  of  the  stream  might  be  advantageously 
planted  with  native  flowering  shrubs,  as  the  Jlzdias,  Kal- 
mias,  Spireas,  and  those  that  are  found  growing  in  such 
situations :  the  margin  of  the  pond  should  be  planted  with 
weeping  willows,  and  trees  of  a  pendulous  habit,  for  shade, 
under  which,  a  rustic  seat  might  be  properly  placed,  for  the 
accommodation  of  those  who  desire  to  view  the  sporting 
fishes,  and. other  interesting  objects  by  which  they  are  sur- 
rounded. Attached  to  the  pond,  or  streams,  I  recommend  a 
well  arranged  grass  plat,  with  a  few  figures  cut  therein,  which 


CITY   AND    NATIVE    AMERICAN   FLOWER   GARDEN.          121 

should  be  planted  with  native  herbaceous  plants,  and  dwarf 
shrubs ;  on  the  margin  of  the  grass  plat,  a  serpentine,  or 
some  well  contrived  walk,  bordered  with  shrubbery,  leading 
to  a  rockery,  of  a  semicircular  form  on  the  north  side,  and 
almost  straight  on  the  south.  A  rockery  so  situated  might 
be  planted  with  various  perennial  and  annual  plants,  and 
dwarf  shrubs,  which  would  there  be  in  a  natural  aspect  and 
location.  On  the  circular  side  of  the  rockery,  divided  by  a 
walk,  a  broad  belt  might  be  planted  with  different  kinds  of 
native  shrubs,  as  Rhododendrons,  Kalmias,  Azelias^  Andro- 
medaS)  and  Spireas. 

In  some  convenient  place  near  the  rockery,  a  rustic  arbor 
may  be  very  properly  placed,  and  covered  with  native  vines 
and  creepers,  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters,  and  the  ju- 
nior members  of  the  family  who  wish  to  study  botany.  The 
plants  should  be  properly  labelled,  with  the  botanical  name 
on  one  side  of  a  neat  tally,  and  the  native  state  on  the  other. 
For  the  better  accommodation  of  those  who  collect  native 
plants,  they  should  be  furnished  with  "  NuttalVs  Genera  of 
the  Plants  of  North  America" — a  work  which,  in  a  very 
concise  and  correct  manner,  gives  the  habit,  time  of  flowering, 
and  location,  of  all  native  plants,  and  should  be  in  possession 
of  every  lover  of  botany. 


11 


CHAPTER    XI.     ^ -' 

On  Plunging  Green-liouse  Plants  in  Flower  Borders. 

THE  flower  garden  may  be  greatly  beautified  in  summer, 
by  plunging  into  the  borders  and  beds,  many  varieties  of 
green-house  plants,  in  their  different  compartments,  in  order 
to  give  a  diversity  of  foliage.  The  plants  are  also  much 
benefited  by  this  method.  Being  placed  in  the  ground  in 
this  way,  their  roots  are  in  a  better  situation,  and  receive  a 
more  regular  supply  of  moisture  than  could  possibly  be 
applied  to  them  in  any  other  position. 

The  best  time  and  manner  of  performing  this,  is  to  turn 
out  some  of  the  most  hardy  kinds  in  the  beginning  of  spring, 
as  the  China  Rose,  Laurustinus,  Myrtle,  and  the  like :  the 
more  tender  kinds,  as  the  Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  and  others, 
may  remain  until  the  middle  or  latter  part,  of  May,  or  at  a 
time  when  the  frosts  are  over.  This  process,  like  many 
others,  must  be  managed  agreeably  to  the  latitude  of  the 
country  in  which  it  is  to  be  performed,  and  the  nature  of  the 
season  at  the  time  of  doing  the  work,  which  a  judicious  per- 
son will  at  once  discover,  as  a  practical  knowledge  is  worth 
volumes  of  theory. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  place  every  plant,  as  near  as  pos- 
sible, in  a  situation  the  best  adapted  to  its  nature.  The 
Camellia,  Daphne,  Nerium,  and  most  kinds  of  evergreens, 
thrive  best  in  a  shaded  situation  ;  others  thrive  and  flower 
more  effectually  in  an  exposed  location,  as  the  Geranium 
and  most  kinds  of  fulgid  flowers. 

Some  taste  is  also  required  in  placing  the  plants  where 
their  habit  will  have  the  desired  effect ;  some  require  sticks 
to  cling  to,  and  should  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  small  figures, 
as  the  Thunbergia  alaia,  and  Maurandia  Bardayana,  and 
all  convolvulous  plants :  others  are  more  proper  for  the 

122 


PLUNGING    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANT*. 


facings  of  borders  and  clumps,  being  of  a  trailing  nature,  as 
the  different  varieties  of  Verbenas.  Vines  and  creepers  are 
best  adapted  to  the  covering  of  arbors,  trellises^  and  so  on. 

The  Thunbergia  alala,  Maurandiu  Barclayana,  and  the 
like  climbing  plants,  may  be  trained  to  appear  to  advantage 
on  a  trellis  of  an  ornamental  form,  as  that  of  a  fan,  balloon, 
or  pyram id,  which  should  be  of  a  size  corresponding  to  the 
place  they  are  planted  in. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  plants  belonging  to  the  green- 
house, that  ought  to  be  propagated  either  in  the  fall  by  cut- 
tings, and  remain  in  pots  in  the  house  through  the  winter, 
or  to  be  propagated  early  in  the  spring,  for  the  express  pur- 
pose of  ornamenting  the  flower  garden  in  the  summer;  as, 
the  different  varieties  of  the  Heliotrope,  the  Fuchsia,  or 
Ear-drop,  the  Verbena,  and  soft,  free-flowering  plants,  which 
should  be  plunged  out  of  the  pots ; — they  should  be  mixed 
indiscriminately  among  the  other  plants  in  the  vacant  places ; 
— however,  in  some  cases  they  are  planted  separately  in  beds 
by  themselves,  as  in  small  figures  on  grass  plats,  where  they 
have  a  very  pretty  effect  in  the  flowering  season. 

All  plants-set  out  not  to  be  taken  up  in  the  autumn  for  the 
green-house  or  rooms,  should  be  plunged  into  the  ground  out 
of  their  pots.  But  those  intended  to  be  taken  into  winter 
quarters,  as  most  kinds  of  evergreens  and  the  like,  should  be 
plunged  in  the  pot,  into  the  ground.  Being  plunged  in  the 
pots,  the  luxuriant  growth  they  would  acquire,  will  be 
in  a  measure  repressed,  owing  to  the  roots  being  curtailed ; 
whilst  if  turned  out  of  the  pot  they  would  extend  their 
roots  some  distance  in  the  soil,  and  when  taken  up  in  the 
fall,  the  roots  would  be  severed  and  the  plants  weakened 
so  as  to  require  some  time  to  recover. 

The  management  of  green-house  plants  in  this  way  is 
simply  to  water  them  when  they  need,  and  prune  any  strag- 
gling branches  that  appear  during  the  season. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Insects. 

THERE  are  innumerable  tribes  of  insects  that  are  more  or 
less  injurious  to,  and  feed  on  plants  and  flowers,  although 
there  are  but  few  species  that  seem  to  be  really  of  a  destruc- 
tive nature  enough  to  encourage  the  florist  to  seek  out  means 
for  their  destruction.  It  appears  to  have  been  one  of  those 
beautiful  ultimates  of  a  wise  Providence,  to  retard  the  mul- 
titudinous increase  of  many  kinds  of  infesting  insects,  by  the 
continual  war  and  extermination  of  one  species  with  another, 
and  hence  we  escape  many  serious  injuries  that  would  evi- 
dently occur  if  such  providential  interference  was  not  guided 
by  an  unerring  hand. 

One  of  the  most  destructive  classes  of  insects  to  the  flower 
garden  and  green-house,  is  the  Aphides,  or  plant-lice,  of 
which  Dr.  Harris  says,  "They  are  found  upon  almost  all 
parts  of  plants,  the  roots,  stems,  young  shoots,  buds,  and 
leaves ;  and  there  is  scarcely  a  plant  which  does  not  harbor 
one  or  two  kinds  peculiar  to  itself.  They  are,  moreover, 
exceedingly  prolific,  for  Reaumur  has  proved  that  one  indi- 
vidual, in  five  generations,  may  become  the  progenitor  of 
nearly  six  thousand  millions  of  descendants." 

The  word  rfphis  or  plant-lice  signifies  to  exhaust,  and  is  a 
truly  recognizable  term  for  this  destructive  insect,  which  is 
seen  in  masses  on  such  plants  as  it  attacks,  which  it  always 
sickens  and  deprives  of  its  sap  or  nutriment,  converting  the 
fluid  into  a  kind  of  honey  dew  which  it  emits  on  the  leaves 
of  plants,  and  is  often  eagerly  fed  on  by  the  rfnt,  which 
always  lives  in  harmony  with  and  protects  the  Ophidians  or 
plant-lice. 

In  the  green-house,  the  Rose  and  Geranium  are  always 
more  or  less  affected  with  this  insect.  It  is,  however,  easily 

124 


INSECTS.  125 

destroyed  by  fumigation  of  tobacco,  which  should  always  be 
resorted  to  when  these  enemies  appear,  and  care  should 
always  be  taken  that  they  are  not  allowed  to  be  too  numer- 
ous before  the  remedy  is  applied.  It  is  better  to  fumigate 
two  or  three  times  than  to  allow  the  plants  to  be  injured  by 
the  insects,  especially  as  the  fumigation  does  not  injure  the 
plants,  but  destroys  thousands  of  other  insects  in  their  infant 
state.  The  Green-fly  is  also  very  destructive  to  the  Rose 
in  the  garden,  where  it  may  easily  be  destroyed  by  dipping 
the  young  shoot  in  a  decoction  of  tobacco  water,  or  it  may 
be  applied  with  a  syringe ;  in  either  case  it  will  be  proper  to 
wash  off  the  tobacco  water  by  washing  the  shoots  clean 
with  clear  water  in  the  morning. 

The  next  common  insect  that  infests  plants  is  the  Red- 
spider,  a  small,  minute  insect,  bred  by  dry,  harsh  heat  or 
internal  air.  Plants  that  are  affected  with  this  insect  have  a 
sickly  appearance,  and  their  leaves  turn  yellow  and  then  red; 
on  the  back  of  the  leaf  a  fine  web  is  seen,  and  the  insect  is 
readily  seen  through  a  magnifying  glass,  and  sometimes  by 
the  naked  eye.  There  is  no  insect  that  I  am  acquainted 
with  so  difficult  to  destroy  as  the  Red-spider.  In  the  green- 
house steam  and  moist  internal  air  counteract  its  ravages,  and 
if  the  flues  are  whitewashed  over  with  lime  and  the  sulphur 
of  vivum,  it  will  in  a  great  measure  destroy  it:  but  sulphur 
should  in  all  cases  be  very  cautiously  applied,  as  too  great  a 
quantity  suffocates  and  scalds  plants. 

Many  plants,  as  Ericas,  Acacias,  Oleanders,  and  Camel- 
lias, are  very  subject  to  a  white  scaly  insect,  which  must  be 
removed  by  taking  it  from  the  leaf  either  with  the  point  of  a 
knife  or  brush ;  after  removing  the  insect,  take  a  wash  made 
by  a  decoction  of  soft  soap  with  a  small  portion  of  sulphur 
and  tobacco  juice,  with  which  the  parts  affected  are  to  be 
sponged  over  three  or  four  times.  Oleanders,  Camellias, 
and  many  evergreens,  are  often  infested  with  a  large,  black, 
scaly  insect,  which  can  be  removed  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  before  named. 

L  2 


126         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

There  are  several  species  of  insects  which  attack  the  Rose, 
as  the  Rose  Bug,  which  is  found  in  and  attacks  the  flower,  as 
soon  as  it  is  opened.  The  only  remedy  I  know  of  to  keep 
this  down,  is  to  pick  it  off  from  the  flower  as  soon  as  it  is 
expanded.  There  is  also  a  worm  that  is  found  in  the  bud, 
which  often  destroys  it  before  it  is  fully  opened ;  this  must 
also  be  kept  down  by  picking  it  from  the  flower  as  soon  as 
it  is  discovered. 

Rose  Slug. — In  some  districts,  as  in  the  state  of  Massa- 
chusetts, near  arid  about  Boston,  the  Rose  Slug  is  very  de- 
structive, and  it  almost  destroys  every  leaf  of  the  plant  if  not 
prevented  from  its  depredations.  In  order  to  obtain  a  remedy 
against  this  infesting  insect,  the  Horticultural  Society  of  Bos- 
ton offered  the  liberal  premium  of  one  hundred  dollars,  which 
was  awarded  to  Mr.  David  Haggertson,  gardener  to  J.  P. 
Gushing,  Esq.,  for  the  following  effective  remedy,  viz.  Take 
two  pounds  of  whale  oil  soap,  dissolved  in  fifteen  gallons  of 
water,  and  syringe  the  plant  therewith,  in  the  evening,  till  the 
slug  is  destroyed.  The  plants  will  also  require  to  be  syringed 
every  morning  with  clear  water,  or  the  cure  will  not  be  ac- 
complished to  any  purpose,  as  the  leaves  will  be  scalded  by 
the  sun,  and  hence  the  remedy  will  be  ineffectual.  When 
the  slug  is  destroyed,  which  will  be  in  a  few  days,  the  ground 
should  have  a  good  cleaning  under  the  plants,  by  taking  away 
all  the  dead  leaves,  and  other  filth  that  has  collected,  so  that 
the  plants  may  assume  their  usual  vigor,  which  will  be  re- 
tarded if  these  are  allowed  to  remain. 

Many  plants  are  also  often  attacked  at  the  root  by  different 
insects  ;  in  this  case,  they  always  sicken,  or  lose  their  leaves. 
There  are  several  species  of  the  Aphis,  which  feed  on  the 
young  fibrous  roots  of  the  Rose,  &c.  Each  variety  of  plants, 
as  before  stated,  has  its  peculiar  aphis,  which  will  be  seen 
clinging  to  them  in  clusters,  and  must  be  either  cleansed  by  a 
decoction  of  tobacco  juice,  or  washed  off  with  clean  water. 
When  this  is  done,  the  plants  will  then  again  assume  their 
usual  growth  and  habit. 


INSECTS.  127 

The  Rose,  and  many  plants,  are  also  often  affected  with  a 
large  grub,  which  eats  the  roots  asunder,  and  the  consequence 
is,  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  and,  if  severely  eaten,  the  plants  often 
die.  The  only  method  to  destroy  this  depredator,  is  to  clear 
away  the  earth  about  the  roots  of  the  plant,  where  the  enemy 
will  generally  be  found,  although  it  is  often  the  case  that  they 
move  their  quarters,  after  they  have  done  their  work  of  de- 
struction, to  another  plant.  In  this  case,  search  must  be 
made  under  the  neighboring  plants,  where  the  grub  always 
is  to  be  found. 

The  Caterpillar,  Grass-hopper,  and  their  natural  families, 
must  be  detected  when  in  the  act  of  making  their  depreda- 
tions. The  Caterpillar  will  be  seen,  in  its  crystalized  state, 
on  the  wood  of  trees  and  plants  in  the  spring,  in  rings  formed 
around  the  branches ;  and  it  is  then  the  time  to  destroy  it,  as 
one  of  these  contains  thousands  of  young  caterpillars,  in  their 
infant  state.  The  Grass-hopper  is  the  most  easily  taken  early 
in  the  morning,  and  must  be  caught  on  the  plants,  as  the 
Dahlia,  &c.,  when  it  makes  its  ravages  too  severe,  which  is 
often  the  case  in  very  dry  weather. 

Birds. — Before  I  close  this  article,  I  must  say  one  word 
in  favor  of  encouraging  and  preserving  all  kinds  of  birds  that 
frequent  the  flower  garden  and  shrubbery,  and,  indeed,  there 
are  some  of  the  small  domestic  kinds  that,  with  a  little  kind- 
ness, will  even  frequent  and  live  in  the  green-house  during 
the  winter.  An  instance  of  this  kind  occurred  last  winter,  in 
the  green-houses  of  Sayers  &,  Heaver,  of  Cincinnati,  where 
one  of  those  little  feathered  domestics  took  up  its  abode,  and 
fed  on  the  apis,  or  green-fly,  and  kept  the  plants  perfectly 
clean  during  its  stay  in  the  winter ;  but  in  the  spring,  it  took 
leave  of  its  landlords,  and  the  green-fly  soon  began  to  appear 
in  their  usual  numbers.  Birds  of  most  kinds  that  inhabit  gar- 
dens, feed  on  insects,  and  should  be  considered  as  one  of  the 
safeguards  against  the  multitudinous  increase  of  them ;  be- 
sides, they  are  charming  companions  to  the  flower  garden,  par- 
ticularly if  a  little  sequestered,  where  they  should  be  allowed 


128  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

to  build  and  increase,  as  rightful  inheritors  of  the  premises. 
In  addition  to  this,  many  birds  are  delightful  warblers  in  the 
spring ;  and  some  of  those  of  a  migratory  character,  if  wel- 
comed to  their  new  home,  will  make  a  long  stay,  and  in  many 
cases  the  same  bird  has  been  known  to  revisit  its  stopping 
place  for  several  seasons.  But  I  am  now  digressing  from  my 
subject,  and  must  therefore  proceed  to  the  culture  of  the 
Rose,  hoping  that  ornithology  will  ere  long  go  hand  in  hand 
with  botany  and  the  pleasing  art  of  floriculture. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

The  Rose. 

ART.  1. — General  Remarks. 

THE  Rose  is  so  generally  known,  as  one  of  the  most  pro- 
minent class  of  flowers  belonging  to  the  flower  garden,  that 
any  comment  on  its  beauty  in  this  place  would  be  altogether 
useless ;  I  shall  therefore  proceed  with  its  culture.  In  treat- 
ing on  the  culture  of  the  Rose,  I  shall  bring  the  subject  under 
one  general  head,  and  then  divide  the  different  classes,  as 
acknowledged  by  florists,  of  the  present  improved  state  of 
this  lovely  family  of  plants. 

The  first  general  division  of  the  Rose,  is  the  difference 
made  from  the  time  of  blooming,  which  is  the  Roses  that 
bloom  in  June ;  and  Ever-blooming,  or  Monthly  Roses. 
These  are  again  subdivided  into  many  parts,  which  take  their 
nomenclature  from  some  property  prevalent  in  the  class,  as 
the  Rosa  Multiflora,  or  many-flowered  rose;  Rosa  Damas- 
cena,  the  Damask  rose,  &c.  There  are  some  also  that  are 
classed  in  honor  of  distinguished  persons  in  floriculture,  as 


THE    ROSE.  129 

Rosa  Banksiana,  or  Lady  Banks'  Rose.  The  Lawrencea, 
and  Noisette  Roses,  are  also  of  this  character ;  and  several 
species  are  named  from  their  places  of  primitive  growth,  as 
the  Rosa  Gallica,  Rose  of  France ;  the  Rosa  Bourboniana, 
the  Bourbon  Rose;  Rosa  Indica  Odorata,  the  Tea-scented 
China  Rose,  &c.  And,  with  these,  we  have  the  Remontan- 
tes,  or  Hybrid  Perpetutals,  which  is  a  charming  class,  and 
should  find  their  way  into  every  flower  garden. 

In  order  to  make  the  subject  concise  and  clear,  I  shall 
again  recapitulate  these  under  their  proper  heads,  and  speak 
of  their  separate  qualities,  and  places  assigned  them,  whether 
as  a  hardy  garden  rose,  pillar  rose,  or  those  which  may  be 
considered  the  pot  rose,  that  are  wintered,  either  in  a  green- 
house or  room,  to  protect  them  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
winter,  and  for  the  gratification  of  having  the  plants  flower, 
and  especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  spring,  which  could  not 
be  effected  if  they  were  allowed  to  remain  out  doors,  in  an 
exposed  situation. 

ART.  2. — Propagation. 

There  are  various  methods  of  propagating  the  Rose,  as  by 
seed,  by  cuttings,  by  layering,  budding,  and  grafting  the  roots 
in  winter.  The  principal  object  of  growing  Roses  from  seed 
is  to  obtain  new  varieties;  and  from  this  method  many  of  the 
beautiful  varieties  of  hybrids  have  been  originated  of  late 
years,  particularly  the  Remontantes,  which  have  been  pro- 
duced by  hybridizing  the  Perpetual  and  Bourbon.  To  the 
florist,  and  those  who  are  curious  in  the  culture  of  the  Rose, 
this  branch  of  floriculture  may  be  adopted,  by  hybridizing 
one  variety  with  another,  to  obtain  new  varieties  of  an  endless 
number  and  variety. 

Raising  Seedling  Roses. — The  berries,  or  hips,  of  ROSCF, 
will  generally  be  ripe  in  the  fall,  when  they  may  be  taken 
from  the  plant,  and  saved  in  sand  until  the  spring.  The  ber- 
ries may  then  be  divided,  and  a  rich  piece  of  ground  in  the 
garden  may  be  prepared,  in  the  same  manner  as  for  other 


130          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

seeds,  by  digging  and  well  pulverizing  it;  the  seed  may  then 
be  sown  in  drills,  twelve  inches  apart,  and  covered  with  a 
portion  of  light  earth,  mixed  with  sand,  and  the  ground  gently 
beaten  down  with  the  back  of  the  spade,  or  a  board,  in  order 
to  make  the  surface  solid  and  level.  To  this  method,  may 
be  added  that  of  sowing  the  seed  in  pots,  or  boxes,  (old  glass 
boxes  are  just  the  thing,)  and  I  think  the  best;  these  may  be 
filled  with  good  compost,  and  the  seed  sown  the  same  time 
and  manner  as  above  directed.  In  either  method,  a  place 
should  be  chosen  where  the  young  plants  are  not  too  much 
exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun,  nor  under  the  drip  of 
trees,  in  the  summer.  The  ground  should  be  kept  moderately 
moist,  and  by  good  attention  most  of  seed  will  grow  the  first 
year ;  although  it  generally  happens,  as  the  covering  of  the 
rose  seed  is  very  hard,  many  of  them  remain  in  the  ground 
until  the  second  year  before  they  vegetate.*  In  order  to  for- 
ward the  growth  and  flowering  of  the  seedlings,  they  may  be 
taken  from  the  seedling-bed  when  they  have  three  or  four 
leaves,  and  transplanted  into  a  nursery  bed  in  rows,  twelve 
inches  apart  and  six  inches  in  the  row.  In  this  place,  all  the 
hardy  kinds  may  remain  until  they  flower,  which  will  be  in 
two  or  three  years ;  but  the  varieties  of  the  Tea,  and  the 
tender  kinds,  will  require  to  be  potted  in  the  fall,  and  treated 
as  the  pot  rose,  until  they  flower,  when  the  cultivator  may 
determine  on  their  qualities.  This  method  is  the  one  gene- 
rally adopted  for  the  roses  that  flower  in  June,  or  the  hardy 
garden  rose. 

For  the  choice  varieties  of  pot  roses,  where  a  green-house 
is  at  hand,  I  think  the  better  method  is  to  sow  the  berries  of 
Roses  in  pots  or  boxes,  when  taken  from  the  plant,  and  place 
them  in  the  green-house  during  the  winter;  and  by  this 
method  the  seed  vegetates  early  in  the  spring;  owing  to  its 
being  kept  continually  moist,  the  hard  shell  decomposes 
sooner  than  when  in  a  dry  state.  In  this  mode,  care  should 

*  See  Propagation  by  Seed,  Part  I.,  Art.  2. 


THE   ROSE.  131 

be  taken  to  keep  the  mice  from  the  seed,  as  they  are  great 
lovers  of  the  Rose;  and,  indeed,  they  are  quite  amateurs  in 
the  seed  of  most  choice  flowers. 

Propagation  by  cuttings. — Most  varieties  of  the  China 
and  Tea  Roses  are  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  wood, 
which  should  be  taken  from  the  plant  when  they  are  well 
ripened,  which  is  soon  after  the  mother  plants  have  done 
flowering,  or  more  properly  speaking,  when  its  general  flow- 
ering is  over;  the  cuttings  should  be  plump  and  hard.  A 
good  compost,  with  one-fourth  sharp  sand,  should  be  mixed 
for  the  purpose,  and  the  cuttings  taken  off  about  three  joints, 
and  prepared  as  directed  under  the  head  of  "  Cuttings,"  in 
the  green-house  department.  They  are  then  to  be  inserted 
in  pots,  or  boxes,  and  placed  either  in  a  frame  or  a  shady 
location,  and  every  attention  should  be  given,  by  keeping 
them  moderately  moist,  clearing  away  any  filth  and  decaying 
leaves.  In  a  few  weeks,  the  cuttings  will  be  well  rooted, 
when  they  are  to  be  potted  off,  in  small  pots,  and  managed  in 
the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  potting  of  young  plants 
from  cuttings  in  the  green-house. 

Propagation  by  layers. — Almost  every  class  of  Roses  may 
be  propagated  by  layers,  although  the  practice  is  generally 
applied  to  those  kinds  which  do  not  propagate  freely  from 
cuttings,  which  are  those  known  under  the  name  of  the  old 
garden,  or  June  Roses — the  Multiflora,  Boursault,  Champney 
and  most  running  roses,  with  the  Remontantes,  Bourbon,  and 
Perpetuals.  The  best  time  for  this  business  is  about  the 
latter  end  of  July,  or  the  beginning  of  August,  when  the 
young  roots,  which  are  those  to  be  selected  for  this  purpose, 
are  tolerably  well  ripened ;  but  the  best  criterion  is  to  layer 
the  Rose  so  soon  as  the  ground  is  sufficiently  moist  to  create 
young  shoots  from  the  incisions,  where  the  callus  is  formed 
to  make  fibres,  or  young  roots. 

Budding  Roses  is  one  of  the  most  speedy  and  certain 
methods  of  increasing  the  Rose,  and  is  now  becoming  very 
prevalent  among  cultivators,  particularly  where  choice  va- 


132         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

rieties  are  in  demand.  The  operation  is  done  in  precisely 
the  same  way  as  directed  under  the  head,  "  Increase  by  In- 
oculation" Part  I.,  Chapter  III. ;  and  the  time  of  performing 
the  work,  is  at  any  time  from  June  to  October,  when  the 
buds  are  well  ripened,  and  the  stock  is  in  good  condition,  as 
directed  under  the  proper  head. 

Grafting  Roses  by  the  root. — This  is  performed  in  the 
month  of  February,  by  collecting  the  long  straggling  roots  of 
the  Boursault,  or  free-growing  kind,  that  have  plenty  of 
roots.  On  these,  the  choice  kinds  of  the  Perpetuals,  Re- 
montantes,  and  the  Moss,  are  grafted,  in  the  same  manner  as 
recommended  for  grafting,  under  the  proper  head.  When 
the  roots  are  grafted,  they  are  to  be  potted  and  placed  in  the 
green-house,  to  unite,  which  will  be  during  the  spring. 

ART.  3. — Roses  that  bloom  in  June. — Various  Roses. 

Multiflora  Rose,  (Rosa  Multiflora,)  a  Japanese  variety, 
and  is  perfectly  hardy  in  the  south-western  states ;  it  also 
bears  the  winters  in  cooler  regions,  only  when  the  season  is 
unusually  severe.  The  Multiflora  is  a  slender  growing 
variety,  and  is  readily  increased  by  layers  or  budding,  as  the 
cuttings  do  not  strike  root  freely.  The  Grevilla  or  Seven 
Sisters  is  of  this  class,  and  was  once  the  leading  rose  of  the 
class ;  the  flowers  are  remarkable  for  having  several  shades 
of  colors  in  the  same  cluster,  and  indeed  almost  every  variety, 
as  single,  double,  and  semi-double,  are  to  be  seen  mingled 
together  in  one  bunch  or  cluster.  It  is  cultivated  as  a  pillar 
rose,  and  for  covering  trellises  and  arbors.  To  this  may  be 
added  Russelliana,  or  Russell's  Cottage  Rose,  a  fine  speci- 
men for  pillars,  &c. — a  fine,  free  bloomer,  with  flowers  of  a 
rich  crimson,  shaded,  and  sometimes  striped  with  white.  A 
perfectly  hardy  rose  and  highly  deserving  culture. 

Laure  Devoust  is  allowed  to  be  the  climax  of  this  class, 
and  is  a  strong  grower,  perfectly  hardy,  and  a  profuse 
bloomer,  bearing  flowers  of  various  shades  from  a  white  to  a 
pink,  in  immense  clusters ;  and  to  these  may  be  added  the 


THE    ROSE.  133 

old  Multiflora,  the  type  of  the  class,  which  is  a  pretty 
variety,  bearing  fine  pink  flowers  in  clusters. 

Boursault  Rose,  (Rosa  Alpina,)  a  hardy,  slender  species 
of  rose  that  is  now  found  common  in  almost  every  flower 
garden,  and  is  often  used  to  bud  the  choice  kinds  of  tender 
China  Rose  upon.  It  was  once  much  esteemed  as  a  running 
rose,  and  it  is  at  this  time  a  useful  variety  for  covering  fencesf 
trellises,  and  the  like  places ;  and  some  are  pretty  for  pillar 
roses,  as  the  Elegant,  which  makes  a  rapid  growth  and  has 
a  profusion  of  fine,  double,  crimson  flowers.  Purpurea,  or 
purple  crimson,  is  also  a  desirable  variety,  which  is  often 
sold  under  the  name  of  purple  Noisette,  or  Michigan  Rose ; 
it  has  pretty,  semi-double,  purple,  crimson  flowers.  To 
these  may  be  added  the  White  Boursault,  gracilis,  and  several 
other  varieties,  which  will  be  found  in  most  nursery  cata- 
logues. 

The  Prairie  Rose,  (Rosa  Rubifolia,)  or  Native  Prairie,  is 
one  of  the  finest  climbers  and  pillar  roses  of  the  present  day, 
and  is  undoubtedly  destined  at  no  very  distant  period  to 
become  a  general  favorite,  and  to  find  a  place  in  every  cot- 
tage garden  in  this  country.  The  old  Prairie  Rose,  known 
as  the  Ohio  or  Kentucky  Rose,  has  been  cultivated  in  the 
western  states  since  the  year  1830,  as  a  fine,  native  specimen 
of  climbing  roses,  and  its  double  flowers  produced  in  large 
clusters  of  various  shades  and  colors  are  still  much  admired. 
This,  however,  has  been  much  surpassed  by  the  fine  seed- 
ling specimens  produced  from  the  native  Prairie  Rose,  by  Mr. 
Feast,  of  Baltimore,  who  has  grown  the  following  splendid 
varieties,  which  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  are  peculiarly  adapted 
for  either  pillar  roses,  covering  arbors,  rockery,  &c. 

The  Queen  of  the  Prairies  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  above, 
having  fine,  large,  well  formed,  rose  colored  flowers,  three 
inches  in  diameter,  dtp  shaped,  and  having  the  property  of 
withstanding  the  sun  without  being  scalded.  It  should  be 
in  the  hands  of  every  cultivator. 

Pallic/a.  pale  blush,  perfectly  double,  is  an  admirable 

~ 


134          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

variety  for  covering  unsightly  places,  as  it  blooms  admirably 
lying  on  the  ground. 

To  these  may  be  added,  Perpetual,  Michigan,  Elegans, 
Superba,  and  others,  which  are  all  pretty  varieties. 

The  Sweet  Brier,  (Rosa  Rubiginosa,)  or  the  English 
Eglantine,  is  a  well  known,  hardy  variety,  of  which  there 
are  now  several  varieties,  although  with  most  of  them  the 
fragrance  of  the  foliage  is  the  most  recommendable  quality 
for  their  culture.  The  plants  are  often  used  to  a  good  pur- 
pose for  making  ornamental  live  fences  for  the  flower  garden. 
There  are,  however,  two  or  three  pretty,  double  varieties, 
which  are  well  adapted  to  the  shrubbery,  as  the  double 
white  and  double  red  Sweet  Brier,  and  their  intermediate 
varieties. 

To  these  may  be  added  the  Scotch  Rose  and  Yellow 
Austrian,  which  are  found  in  most  gardens,  and  are  divided 
at  the  root.  The  varieties  are  pretty  early  flowering  kinds, 
and  are  generally  admired  for  their  buds.  One  of  the  pret- 
tiest of  this  class  is  the  Harrisonia  or  Hogg's  Yellow  Har- 
rison, which  is  a  beautiful  double  flowering  variety. 

The  GARDEN  ROSE,  or  June  Flowering  Rose,  is  the  old 
inhabitant  of  the  English  flower  garden,  and  recognized 
under  several  different  varieties,  as  the  Red  Moss,  which  is 
the  type  of  the  Moss  Rose,  which  is  now  classed  under  the 
head  of 

The  Rosa  Cenlifolia,  var.  Rosa  Muscosa>  or  Moss  Rose, 
which  is  mentioned  by  Miller  so  early  as  the  year  1727,  and 
is  at  this  very  time  one  of  the  best  roses  of  the  flower  gar- 
den, and  in  bud  has  no  competitor  among  all  the  varieties 
known  at  the  present  lime.  From  this  has  emanated  many 
varieties,  which  will  be  described  in  the  Descriptive  list,  but 
none  to  excel  the  primitive  when  in  bud.  To  this  may  be 
added 

The  Rosa  Centifolia,  or  the  Provins,  or  Cabbage  Rose, 
an  old  inhabitant  of  the  English  flower  garden,  but  although 
it  is  called  an  English  Rose,  it  is  undoubtedly  a  native  of 


THE    ROSE.  135 

Provins,  a  town  a  few  leagues  from  Paris,  where  it  is  ex- 
tensively grown  for  distillation,  and  produces  that  much 
esteemed  cosmetic,  rose-water,  &c.  The  old  Dutch  or 
Provins  Cabbage,  is  the  principal  type  of  this  class,  and 
retains  its  character  as  one  of  the  best  roses  of  the  garden, 
at  the  present  period.  The  old  Moss  Rose  is  also  undoubt- 
edly an  old  variety  of  this  class,  and  from  it,  crossed  with 
other  varieties,  emanated  several  superb  kinds,  which  will  be 
found  described  under  their  proper  heads  in  the  Descriptive 
list.  All  of  these  varieties  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  are 
propagated  by  taking  up  the  suckers  from  the  mother  plants, 
by  layers  and  by  inoculation. 

The  Rosa  Gallica,  or  the  Rose  of  France,  is  also  a  per- 
fectly hardy  garden  rose,  and  increased  by  layers  and  inocu- 
lating. "  Buist  on  the  Rose,"  (a  work  which  should  be  in 
the  hands  of  every  lover  of  this  lovely  family,)  says  the 
distinguished  features  of  this  family  are  strong,  upright 
flower  stalks,  want  of  large  prickles,  ridged  leaves,  and 
compact  growth.  The  colors  vary  from  a  pink  to  the  deep- 
est shades  of  crimson.  Nearly  all  the  striped,  mottled,  and 
variegated  varieties  have  originated  from  this  group. 

ART.  4. — Descriptive  List  of  Roses  that  bloom  in  June. 

Those  marked  thus  *,  are  fine  old  varieties  that  are  retained  for  their 
superior  qualities ;  those  marked  thus  f,  are  superior  varieties  that  are 
scarce,  and  of  late  introduction. 

ROSA  CEXTIFOLIA,  var.  Muscosa,  the  Moss  Rose. 
Name.  Color,  Character,  and  Forai. 

*Red  Moss.  Rose  color;  splendid  bud;  the  old  Moss. 

Crimson  Damask.  Deep  rose,  strong  habit. 

*  Luxembourg  Moss.  Bright  red;  perfectly  double,  free  grower. 
Provins  Moss,  or  Unique.  White ;  blooms  in  magnificent  clusters. 
Alice  Leroi.                                    Rosy  lilac ;  hardy,  strong,  free  grower. 

f  White  Striped  Moss.  Pure  white,  striped  with  pink. 

*  White  Bath,  or  Cliff  on  Moss.   Pure  white;  of  rather  delicate  growth;  glob. 
•j-Laffay's,  Perpetual  white  Moss.  Pure  white ;  profuse  bloomer. 

ROSA  CEXTIFOLIA,  the  Provins,  or  Cabbage  Rose. 

Unique.  White ;  often  striped,     [riety ;  globular. 

*Belgic,  or  Dutch  Provins.  Red;  the  old  Dutch  Cabbage,  fine  va- 
j-Crested,  Provins.  Bright  rosy  pink;  fine  variety;  cup. 

Reine  Caroline.  Deep  pink,  vary  to  blush ;  fine  late  variety. 


136          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ROSA  GALLICA,  the  Rose  of  France. 
Name.  Color,  Character,  and  Form. 

*  Belle  Africaine.  Dark  crimson;  double  compact  flower. 
Carmin  Brilliant.  Bright  carmine ;  cup. 

*  Coronation.  Brilliant  scarlet ;  profuse  bloomer. 
Due  de  Choiseul.  Pale  rose ;  flowers  freely ;  well  formed. 
Elemensie.  Rosy  crimson ;  grows  and  blooms  freely. 

*  Fanny  Bias.  Pale  blush,  shading  to  a  pink;  free  bloomer. 

*  Hercules.  Bright  red ;  with  a  delicious  fragrance  ;  cup. 
Isabel.  Pink;  flowers  in  clusters  in  profusion. 
King  of  Rome.  Bright  red ;  perfect  form. 

*La  Negresse.  Superb  double  crimson;  fully  double. 

Ranunculus.  Mottled  rosy  purple ;  free  bloomer. 

j-Souvenir  de  Navarino.  Expanded  pink ;  double,  free  bloomer. 

*  Tuscany,  (Rivers'.)  Dark  rich  crimson;  free  bloomer;  expanded. 

STRIPED,  SPOTTED,  AXD  MARBLED  VAR. 

*Rosa  Mundi.  Spotted  and  striped  with  rose. 

*Bicolor.  Scarlet,  with  pure  white  stripe. 

Hersilie.  Pink,  spotted  with  white. 

Malsherbes.  Rosy  purple,  spotted  with  white, 

f  Jeanne  Hachette  Red,  with  crimson  spots.  [white. 

*Renoncule  Ponctuee.  Spotted  and  marbled  with  rose,  crimson  and 

Village  Maid.  Carnation.striped  with  deep  rose,  pink  &  white. 

ROSA  ALBA,  the  White  Garden  Rose. 

White  Globe.  Pure  white;  fully  double;  globular. 

Madam  Hardy.  Pure  white ;  strong  grower. 

La  Belle  Augusta.  Blush,  changing  to  nearly  white. 

Clementine.  Pure  white;  perfectly  double. 

Reine  des  Beiges.  Pure  white ;  perfectly  double.  " 

ROSA  DAMASCEXA,  the  Damask  Rose. 

Leda.  White  flowers,  edged  with  pink. 

Mathilde  de  Mondeville.  Rosy  lilac ;  fragrant  profuse  bloomer. 

York  and  Lancaster.  Striped  pink  and  white. 

HTBRID  CHINESE  ROSES. 

Belle  Parabere.  Violet  shaded  crimson ;  fine  pillar  rose. 

Bon  Ginnerure.  Bright  red,  edged  with  violet. 
Coupe  d'  Hebe,  Hebe's  cup.  Delicate  blush ;  fine  pillar  rose. 

D'Aubigne.  Violet  shaded  purple,  approaching  blue. 

Fulgens.  Bright  red  carmine ;  flowers  quite  double. 

General  Lamarque.  Bronzed  mottled  crimson ;  curious  shades. 

Rivers'  George  4th.  Rich  crimson ;  full  and  perfectly  double. 

L'  Ingenue.  Shaded  crimson ,  very  double. 

Lpuis  Philippe.  Dark  rose ;  perfect,  fine,  blooms  freely. 

Lord  Nelson.  Dark  velvet;  perfectly  double. 

Petit  Pierre.  Purplish  crimson ;  large,  perfect  flower. 

Prolifere.  Dark  rose,  changeable  to  a  violet. 

Stadtholder.  Clear  pink;  good  standard  rose. 

King  of  Hybrids.  Beautifully  spotted  arid  striped ;  cup. 

Vandael.  Rosy  purple,  changing  to  a  violet  crimson. 


THE   ROSE.  137 

AHT.  5. — Hoses  that  bloom  the  whole  season. 

This  class  of  roses  may  be  divided  into  two  parts,  viz : 
the  old  Monthly  or  Chinese  varieties,  and  the  hardy  Hybrid 
Perpetuals.  The  Chinese,  or  Rosa  Indica,  of  which  the 
Tea  Rose  forms  a  prominent  character,  were  formerly  con- 
sidered as  green-house  plants,  and  they  now  properly  belong 
to  that  department  in  the  northern  and  eastern  states,  but  in 
the  southern  states  they  are  all  perfectly  hardy,  and  need  no 
protection  in  the  winter. 

The  China  Rose  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  front  stage 
of  the  green-house,  and  with  a  little  attention  will  flower 
nearly  all  the  winter.  In  the  spring  they  thrive  best  planted 
into  the  ground,  and  may  be  either  mingled  with  other  plants 
in  the  flower  borders,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  separate 
beds,  and  if  the  different  classes  are  planted  by  themselves, 
they  form  fine  groups  during  the  time  of  flowering. 

Propagation. — The  China  Rose  may  be  propagated  by 
cuttings,  layers,  budding  and  grafting  on  the  roots.  As  all 
these  systems  have  been  spoken  of,  it  will  be  useless  to 
repeat  them  in  this  place.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  cultiva- 
tor should  always  aim  to  strike  the  cuttings  early  in  the 
summer,  in  order  to  have  the  young  plants  well  established 
in  the  pot  before  winter.  The  common  method  is  to  strike 
the  cuttings  in  pots  of  prepared  compost  in  precisely  the 
same  manner  as  directed  for  green-house  plants.  When 
rooted  they  may  be  potted  in  the  same  manner  as  recom- 
mended under  the  head  of  propagating  green-house  plants. 
The  shifting  of  the  young  plants  into  larger  pots,  and  general 
treatment,  is  simply  the  same  as  green-house  plants  in  the 
winter,  and  will  be  spoken  of  under  the  proper  heads,  and 
will  therefore  need  no  notice  in  this  place. 

The  Rose  should  always  be  grown  in  a  rich,  loamy  com- 
post, with  a  portion  of  well-rotted  manure  and  leaf  mould, 
with  river  or  other  coarse  sand  to  give  it  a  moderate  drain- 
age, as  the  R>&e  always  delights  to  root  in  a  moderately  clry 
soil.  Where  a  green-house  is  not  on  the  premises,  for  the 

12  M2 


138          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

tender  kinds  of  Roses,  a  pit  or  cold  frame  will  answer  for 
winter  quarters,  as  the  slightest  protection  will  preserve  them 
through  the  winter. 

The  Bengal,  Chinese,  or  Daily  rose,  is  also  of  this  class, 
and  requires  the  same  treatment;  although  in  most  parts 
south  of  Philadelphia  they  are  hardy,  with  the  exception  of 
the  wood,  which  is  cut  down  to  the  ground,  unless  protected, 
in  severe  winters ;  which  see,  under  the  head  of  "  Cover- 
ing tender  shrubs  and  roses,"  &c. 

The  Noisette  Rose,  which  owes  its  origin  to  Mr.  Noisette, 
of  Charleston,  South  Carolina,  was  raised  by  that  noted 
florist  about  the  year  1815,  and  created  great  excitement  at 
that  time  among  rose  fanciers,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been 
a  production  of  the  common  China  and  White  Musk  Clus- 
ter. Like  all  other  classes  of  roses,  there  are  now  numerous 
varieties  of  fine  specimens  of  this  rose,  which  have  been 
produced  from  seed.  Several  of  the  leading  varieties  at  the 
present  day  will  be  found  in  the  Descriptive  list  to  follow 
this  article.  Like  the  before  named  varieties,  the  Noisette  is 
perfectly  hardy  in  the  southern  states,  but  in  the  northern 
states  it  requires  some  protection  during  winter.  It  is 
propagated  by  cuttings,  layers,  and  budding ;  but  by  layers 
is  the  best  method.  Its  treatment  is  precisely  the  same  as 
recommended  for  the  Chinese  varieties. 

The  Lawrenciana,  or  Miniature  Rose,  is  a  very  dwarf 
variety  of  the  China  and  the  Lilliputian  of  the  French 
florists,  who  cultivate  several  varieties  of  this  pet  rose;  one 
of  which,  the  Master  Burke,  we  are  informed  by  Hovey's 
Magazine  of  Horticulture,  when  three  years  old,  in  full 
flower,  was  completely  covered  with  the  half  of  an  egg-shell. 
This  is  a  pretty  variety  for  the  amateur,  and  is  particularly 
adapted  to  room  culture. 

The  Bourbon  Rose,  which  takes  its  name  from  its  place 
of  parentage,  the  Isle  of  Bourbon,  is  supposed  to  be  a  hybrid 
between  the  China  and  Red-four-seasons,  as  it  was  there 
first  discovered  by  Monsieur  Perichcu  in  planting  a  hedge 


THE    ROSE.  139 

of  roses,  and  sent  to  France  in  1822  by  Monsieur  Jaques, 
then  gardener  at  the  Chateau  de  Neuilly.  According  to  Mr. 
Buist,  who  is  excellent  authority  on  the  Rose,  the  Bour- 
bon is  perfectly  hardy  in  the  southern  states,  and  nearly  so 
in  the  northern,  where  it  will  stand  in  the  open  air  with  a 
little  protection,  and  is  decidedly  one  of  the  best  classes  of 
roses  belonging  to  the  flower  garden.  To  this  may  be  added 
that  lovely  class  of  hardy  roses, 

The  Remontantes,  or  Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses,  which  are 
equally  hardy  as  the  garden  rose,  and  with  good  cultivation 
will  produce  flowers  nearly  through  the  season  in  great  per- 
fection. This  is  evidently  one  of  the  best  classes  of  roses 
for  garden  culture,  and  requires  only  to  be  introduced  to 
gain  the  general  admiration  of  all  who  cultivate  them.  They 
are  cultivated  the  same  as  other  garden  varieties,  and  are 
propagated  freely  by  layers,  inoculating,  and  grafting,  but 
they  do  not  strike  root  freely  from  cuttings.  To  this  may 
be  added, 

The  Microphylla,  or  Small-leaved  Rose,  with  its  small, 
pinnated  leaves,  having  the  appearance  of  the  locust  tree  in 
miniature.  The  Microphylla  Rose  is  generally  hardy,  and 
delights  in  dry  soils,  giving  a  succession  of  flowers  through 
the  season.  This  rose  is  peculiarly  adapted  for  growing 
against  fences,  and  is  in  many  cases  used  as  live  fences  to  a 
good  purpose.  Those  varieties  most  generally  cultivated 
will  be  found  in  the  Descriptive  list. 

The  Musk  Cluster  is  also  one  of  the  old  inhabitants  of 
the  flower  garden,  and  is  peculiar  for  its  musk  fragrance, 
although  in  every  other  property  it  is  surpassed  as  a  running 
rose.  It  is  more  delicate  than  the  Noisette,  and  requires 
nearly  the  same  culture,  with  the  difference  of  its  requiring 
to  be  protected  in  the  winter. 


140           THE  FLOWER  GAREN  COMPANION. 

AHT.  6. — Roses  that  bloom  the  whole  season. 
TEA-SCENTED  ROSE,  (Rosa  Indica  var.  Odorata.J 

Name.  Color,  Character,  and  Form. 

Barbot.  creamy  blush ;  highly  fragrant. 

*  Blush,  or  odcrata.  exquisite  fragrance. 

Bougere.  bronzed ;  superb  flower;  cup.                   [cup. 

*  Caroline.  pale  rose  ;  one  of  the  best  of  tb.3  tea-scented; 
Clara  Sylvain.  pure  white ;  free  bloomer ;  strong  grower ;  cup. 
*Devoniensis.  straw,  with  buff  centre;  fine  flower;  cup. 
*Duc  d'Orleans.  bright  rose;  strong  grower;  cup. 

*  Eliza  Sauvage.  salmon  yellow;  fine  rose,  but  feeble  grpwer. 
Flon.  fawn  color ;  large,  fine  flower. 

Hardy.  pink ;  free  bloomer,  quite  double ;  cup. 

Hymenee.  creamy  white ;  free  bloomer ;  hardy ;  cup. 

Josephine  Malton.  creamy  white ;  strong  grower ;  cup. 

La  Sylphide.  rosy  buff;  large  flower ;  free  and  hardy. 

Madam  Desprez.  fine  white;  does  well  budded. 

Mansais.  large  buff  pink  centre  ;  hardy. 

Nid  d' Amor.  blush,  with  rosy  centre ;  cup. 

Princess  Marie.  coppery  rose ;  beautiful  free  bloomer ;  glob. 

Reve  du  Bonheur.  creamy  blush ;  early  flower. 

Safrano.  very  fragrant ;  bright  rosy  red. 

Triumph  de  Luxembourg,    fawn  color ;  very  large  flower. 

BENGAL  CHINESE  or  DAILY  ROSE,  (Rosa  Ind'.cn.J) 

*  Arch  Duke  Charles.  rose,  changing  to  crimson  ;  cup: 
*Beau  Carmine.  dark  crimson ;  free  bloomer;  cup: 

Belle  Isidore.  pink,  changing  to  crimson ;  strong  grower. 

Bisson.  delicate  rosy  pink ;  perfect  double,  and  fragrant. 

Lady  of  the  Lake.  beautiful  pure  white  ;  cup. 

Multiflora  Cels.  blush;  flowers  perfect,  and  in  profusion. 

Comble  de  Gloxie.  rich  crimson  ;  large  and  double. 

Cramoise  Superior.  brilliant  crimson ;  strong  grower ;  cup. 

Gros  Charles.  shaded  rose ;  free  grower. 

Louis  Philippe.  dark  crimson  ;  pale  blush  ;  centre  excellent. 

Marjolin.  dark  crimson;  hardy  and  luxuriant;  glob. 

*Thea  a  Fleurs  Juane.  pure  white;  flowers  in  clusters. 

Mrs.  Bosanquet.  pale  rose ;  perfectly  double ;  cup. 

Prince  Eugene. 

Reine  de  Lombardie.  rosy  red  ;  fine  rose  for  the  parlor  ;  glob. 

Sanguinea.  deep  crimson  ;  free  flower. 

Triomphant.  violet  crimson  ;  flowers  perfect. 

Washington,  (Landreth's,)  crimson,  frequently  striped ;  fine  Amer.  var. 

NOISETTE  ROSES. 

Aimee  Vibert.  pure  white;  perfect  form;  free  bloomer. 

Marseillaise.  crimson  ;  perfectly  double  and  distinct. 

Cbampneyana.  pink  cluster;  profuse  bloorner. 

Chrornatella.  yellow,  or  (cloih  of  gold,-}  superior  flower. 

Conque  de  Venus.  creamy  white  ;  bright  pink  centre. 

Cora  L.  Barton.  clear  rosy  pink ;  profuse  bloomer. 

Du  Luxembourg.  rosy  purple ;  sweet  scented ;  free  bloomer. 


THE    ROSE.  141 

Name.  Color,  Character,  and  Form. 

Euphronsine.  rosy  buff;  peculiarly  grateful  fragrance. 

Fellenberg.  pale  red ;  perfectly  hardy ;  free  blopiner. 

Jaune  Desprez.  rosy  buff:  hardy ;  profuse  grower. 

Lamarque.  yellowish  white  ;  hardy  ;  rapid  grower. 

Le  Pactole.  yellowish  w  hite ;  free  bloomer. 

Smithii.  lemon  yellow ;  rather  tender. 

Prudence  Roeser.  fine  rose ;  rather  dwarf;  cup. 

Rotanger.  pale  rose,  changing  to  a  blush. 

*Solfatare.  bright  sulphur  yellow ;  pillar  rose. 

THE  BOURBOX  ROSE,  (~Rosa  Bourboniana.J 

Acidalie.  blush  white;  perfect;  superb  flower;  cup. 

Bizarine.  rosy  crimson;  free  flower, strong  habit ;  cup. 

Boquet  de  Flore.  deep  carmine;  free  bloomer,  strong  plant; 

Docteur  Roques.  rich  crimson :  distinct  free  bloomer.          [cup. 

Cy theree.  bright  rose ;  free  bloomer  in  clusters ;  cup. 

General  Dubourg.  large  pale  rose;  fragrant  flower;  cup. 

Grand  Capitaine.  bright  crimson;  (pi/lar  rose,-)  glob. 

Hennequin.  rosy  crimson ;  flowers  in  clusters. 

Hermosa.  bright  rose ;  superb  flower ;  cup. 

Henry  Plantier.  deep  rose ;  large  fine  flower. 

Madam  Desprez.  bright  rose ;  fine  glossy  foliage ,  cup. 

Madam  Newman.  bright  rose ;  very  fragrant ;  cup. 

Marshal  Viliiars.  deep  purplish  crimson ;  splendid  flower ;  cup. 

Paul  Joseph.  brilliant  crimson ;  free  bloomer ;  cup. 
Queen,  ("of  Me  Bourbon. Jwaxy  blush;  petals  perfectly  formed. 

Violet  de  Belgique.  violet ;  splendid  flowers. 

Zulema.  pale  blush  ;  flowers  in  large  clusters. 

PERPETUAL  DAMASK  ROSE,  ("Rosa  Damascena,  var.J 

Algina.  bright  rose  ;  cup. 

Antonia.  quite  double  ;  fragrant 

Bernard.  pink;  fragrant  and  superb  flower;  cup. 

Billiard.  bright  rose  ;  profuse  bloomer. 

Jeanne  Hachette.  very  large  pale  rose ;  perfectly  double. 

Josephine  Antoinette.  rosy  pink ;  fragrant,  free  bloomer. 
La  Reine,  (  Queen  of  Perpetuate.)     pale  rose ;  free  bloomer. 

Monthly  Damask.  pink ;  very  fragrant,  free  bloomer. 

Noel.  pale  pink  ;  grows  freely,  very  prolific. 

Portland  Blanc.  white  ;  large  fine  form  and  fragrant. 

Preval.  pale  flesh ;  fragrant,  profuse  bloomer ;  cup. 

Rose  du  Roy.  brilliant  crimson ;  fragrant;  cup. 

Stanwell.  pale  flesh ;  free  bloomer ;  cup. 

REMOXTAXTES,  or  HTHRID  PERPETUAL  ROSE. 

Aubemon.  rosy  carmine;  profuse  bloomer;  cup. 

Comte  de  Paris.  rosy  purple ;  delicate  fragrance ;  cup. 

De  Neuilly.  beautiful  clear  rose,  spotted  with  white;  cup. 

Edouard  Jesse.  bright  red  ;  delightfully  fragrant ;  cup. 

*Fulgorie.  rosy  crimson;  flowers  large  and  perfect;  glob. 

*Lady  Forwirk.  rosy  pink;  odor  of  the  Damask;  cup. 


142          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

Name.  Color,  Character,  and  Form. 

*  Louis  Bonaparte.  rosy  lilac;  superb  and  profuse  flowers. 
*Madam  Laffay.  rosy  crimson  ;  a  most  splendid  variety ;  cup. 
*Marechal  Soult.  bright  rosy  purple  ;  imbricated  and  fragrant. 
Mistress  Elliott.  rosy  lilac  ;  vigorous  free  bloomer ;  cup. 

*  Prince  Albert  rich  crimson ;  vigorous  and  fragrant ;  cup. 
*Rivers.  brilliant  crimson  ;  fragrant  profuse  bloomer. 
Rachel.  bright  rose  ;  cup. 

THE  MICROPHTLLA,  ("Small-leaved  Rose.J 
Carnea.  rose ;  large  double. 

Violacea.  violet  purple ;  upright  growth. 

Alba  odorata.  double  white,  yellow  centre. 

Maria  Leonide.  creamy  white,  blush  centre. 

Planting  and  Pruning. — As  a  general  rule,  the  best  time 
for  planting  roses  is  early  in  the  spring,  when  the  ground  is 
in  good  order;  although  in  some  cases  the  hardy  Garden 
Roses  may  be  planted  with  good  advantage,  on  dry  ground, 
in  the  fall.  The  pruning  may  be  done  in  the  fall  with  the 
hardy  garden  kinds,  and  in  order  to  have  them  flower  well 
they  should  be  pruned  pretty  close  to  the  root  to  make  the 
plants  throw  up  good,  strong  shoots  of  young  wood ;  for  it  is 
from  these  the  bunches  of  flowers  are  to  be  looked  for.  The 
China  and  Monthly  Roses  should  be  pruned  in  the  spring — 
they  should  have  all  the  injured  wood  cut  off,  and  their  main 
shoots  shortened  to  make  them  throw  out  young  wood.  The 
running  roses  should  be  simply  thinned  out  of  all  the  weak 
shoots,  leaving  always  plenty  of  young  branches  for  flower- 
ing, as  it  is  on  these  they  give  their  profuse  wreaths  of  roses. 
They  should  never  be  shortened,  but  simply  take  out  the 
dead  wood,  &c. 


PART    III. 

CONSTRUCTION  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  GREEN- 
HOUSE. 


CHAPTER    I. 

*      On  t  lie  Construction  of  the  Green-house. 

ART.  1. — Location  and  Plan. 

THE  Green-house  being,  at  this  time,  an  almost  gener  A 
appendage  to  the  flower  garden,  particularly  in  city  residences, 
where  it  is  generally  connected  with  the  dwelling-house,  is 
the  principal  reason  for  introducing  some  remarks  on  the 
subject  in  this  place. 

The  position  of  the  green-house  should,  if  possible,  be 
such  that  it  may  face  to  the  south,  although  a  south-east,  or 
south-west  aspect  may  answer :  it  must  be  a  consideration 
witli  the  owner,  as  to  which  is  the  most  convenient  place  on 
the  premises.  In  all  cases,  it  should  be  protected  as  much  as 
possible  on  the  north-east,  and  cold  quarters,  and  be  exposed 
to  the  south  and  south-east.  The  site  on  which  it  is  to  be 
built  must  be  dry,  which  facilitates  the  working  of  it  in  win- 
ter, and  is  most  conducive  to  the  health  of  the  plants.  The 
house  may  be  of  almost  any  plan ;  it  will  appear  to  good  ad- 
vantage with  a  circular  front,  although  a  straight  one  is  the 
most  general,  and  answers  best.  Thirty  feet  long  and  four- 
teen wide,  in  the  inside,  is  perhaps  a  good  house ;  but  this, 
like  many  other  things  relative  to  flower-gardening,  must 
depend  on  circumstances;  the  object  here  is  to  show  that  a 
143 


144          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

green-house  of  this  dimension  is  the  best  general  criterion  for 
one  furnace;  therefore  the  length  will  depend  on  circum- 
stances. The  front  and  end  walls  should  be  of  brick,  and 
may  be  raised  two  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  earth ;  on  the 
front  wall,  upright  sashes,  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  feet 
high,  must  be  conveniently  fixed  so  as  to  give  air,  either  by 
sliding  into  a  grooved  chase,  so  that  the  whole  or  any  portion 
of  them  can  be  taken  out  at  either  end,  and  air  given  if  re- 
quired, at  any  part  of  the  front  of  the  house;  or  they  may  be 
suspended  on  hinges,  to  be  lifted  up  at  pleasure.  The  back 
wall  must  be  carried  to  such  a  height,  that  when  the  roof, 
which  must  be  glass,  is  put  on,  it  will  form  an  angle  of  forty 
degrees ;  the  ends,  which  should  also  be  glass,  will  have  a 
pitch  accordingly ;  the  roof  should  be  composed  of  sashes 
four  feet  wide,  the  top  ones  to  slide  by  pulleys  and  reels  over 
the  bottom.  The  rafters  may  be  four  inches  wide  on  the 
outside,  and  bevelled  to  an  angle  inside ;  the  panes  should 
be  five  by  seven  inches,  well  glazed,  with  a  lap  of  not  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  inch ;  the  wood,  and  all  other  materials, 
require  to  be  of  the  best  quality. 

AKT.  2. — Mode  of  Heating. 

The  house  may  be  heated  either  by  a  dry  flue  or  hot  water, 
but  the  dry  flue  is  most  general,  and  perhaps  best. 

Materials  for  the  flue. — The  materials  are,  about  fifty  fire 
bricks,  for  an  arch  over  the  furnace,  six  bars  of  cast  iron  for 
the  grate,  eighteen  inches  long,  the  ends  of  which  must  be 
three  inches  square,  and  the  other  part  two  inches  thick,  and 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  wide  at  the  top,  and  half  an  inch  at 
the  bottom,  which  will  allow  a  sufficient  draught  and  room 
for  the  ashes  to  pass  through. 

The  two  frames  required  for  the  furnace  and  ash-hole 
should  be  the  same  in  size,  twelve  inches  square,  and  from 
two  to  three  inches  wide,  with  iron  doors,  hung  in  the  usual 
way:  next,  are  two  iron  bars,  as  supporters  for  the  grate, 
which  must  be  two  feet  long;  the  other  materials  are  flue 


CONSTRUCTION    OF    THE    GREEN-HOUSE.  145 

tiles,  which  should  be  twelve  inches  square.  Soft  bricks  and 
good  mortar  are  the  other  requisites. 

Building  the  furnace. — The  furnace  is  the  first  to  be  at- 
tended to,  which  should  be  at  least  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches 
below  the  level  of  the  flue,  in  order  to  have  a  good  draught. 
The  size  of  the  furnace  must  be  thirteen  inches  wide,  in  order 
to  give  space  for  taking  out  the  bars,  when  it  is  requisite  to 
clean  the  furnace ;  the  bars  must  rest  on  the  two  iron  sup- 
porters, underneath  which  will  be  the  ash-hole,  of  the  same 
dimensions.  An  arch  of  fire-bricks  must  be  turned  over  the 
grating,  fifteen  inches  high  in  the  centre. 

There  should  be  a  neck  of  a  curvilinear  form,  from  the 
furnace  to  the  flue,  about  three  feet  long,  with  a  regular  ascent 
of  one  foot,  to  cause  a  good  draught. 

Position  of  the  flue. — The  position  of  the  flue  should  be 
such  as  to  turn  round  the  front  and  back  of  the  house,  from  the 
north-east  to  the  north-west  corner,  where  the  smoke  should 
be  carried  horizontally  from  the  neck  before  spoken  of. 

Dimensions  of  the  flue. — In  building  the  flue,  I  recom- 
mend for  a  foundation,  that  bricks  be  laid  in  mortar,  to  the 
width  of  twenty-one  inches  from  the  wall.  On  this  founda- 
tion, two  courses  of  bricks  must  be  laid  on  their  edges ;  one 
three  inches,  the  other  fifteen,  from  the  wall,  leaving  a  space 
of  four  inches  between  each  brick,  so  as  to  form  a  pigeon 
hole  under  the  flue :  on  these  two  courses,  lay  a  plank  for  a 
foundation,  on  which  lay  either  brick  or  tiles,  for  the  bottom 
of  the  flue;  then  proceed  with  three  bricks,  on  their  edges, 
each  side  the  bottom  of  the  flue,  which,  when  covered  with 
the  upper  tiles,  forms  the  flue,  the  inside  of  which  will  be 
twelve  inches  deep  and  eight  wide. 

AKT.  3.— Walk  and  Stages. 

Adjoining  the  foundation  of  the  flue,  round  the  front  of  the 

house,  I  recommend  a  walk,  two  feet  wide,  to  be  laid  with 

an  inclination  of  half  an  inch  in  ten  feet,  to  the  south-east 

or  south-west  corner,  to  carry  off  the  water,  which  can  be 

13  N 


146         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

conducted  through  a  pipe,  three  inches  in  diameter,  to  pass 
under  the  wall,  into  a  reservoir;  on  the  inside  of  the  walk,  a 
row  of  bricks  may  be  laid  in  an  upright  direction,  to  keep  the 
earth  from  covering  the  walk. 

Staging  of  the  house. — Over  the  flue,  around  the  front,  a 
stage  may  be  built  for  the  accommodation  of  small  plants, 
consisting  of  four  shelves ;  that  near  the  glass  to  be  eight,  the 
second  seven,  the  third  six,  and  the  fourth  five  inches  wide ; 
to  descend  towards  the  walk  six  inches,  which  will  be  two 
inches  between  each  shelf;  or  it  may  be  made  level,  with 
boards,  if  most  convenient.  A  stage  should  also  be  erected 
from  the  walk,  to  the  back  of  the  house,  according  to  the  fol- 
lowing scale,  viz :  the  first  shelf  next  the  walk  to  be  four  feet 
six  inches  from  the  front  glass,  its  height  three  feet,  and 
width  seven  inches ;  the  second,  six  inches  above  that,  and 
the  same  width;  the  third  and  fourth,  eight;  fifth  and  sixth, 
ten ;  seventh,  twelve,  and  eighth  the  remaining  space  to  the 
wall.  Their  height,  one  above  another,  gradually  to  increase, 
so  as  to  leave  the  seventh  twelve  inches  from  the  eighth, 
which  should  be  five  feet  from  the  top  of  the  wall.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  above,  shelves  may  also  be  erected  in  other  parts 
of  the  house,  for  succulent  plants,  as  the  Cactus,  and  dry 
stove  plants,  with  many  little  things  that  may  be  added  to  suit 
the  owner's  taste. 

Having  completed  the  house,  the  next  thing  to  be  attended 
to  is  painting  the  wood  work  white, — the  stage  excepted, — 
the  brick  work  and  walls  require  whitewashing,  for  the  benefit 
of  the  plants,  and  its  neat  appearance. 

ART.  4. — Repairing  and  Cleansing. 

Before  entering  on  the  subject  of  green-house  plants,  there 
remain  one  or  two  observations  on  the  internal  arrangement 
of  the  green-house,  which,  though  not  strictly  pertaining  to 
the  subject  of  this  chapter,  may  be  brought  in  here  with 
advantage. 

To  have  the  house  in  proper  order  for  the  reception  of 


CONSTRUCTION    OF   THE   GREEN-HOUSE.  147 

plants  in  the  fall,  it  should  be  minutely  inspected  in  the  month 
of  August  each  year,  that  all  repairs  which  appear  necessary 
may  be  done.  The  flue  should  be  examined  first,  which 
requires  that  a  few  tiles  be  taken  off  the  tops,  in  order  to 
clean  out  the  soot,  that  has  collected  during  the  winter;  this 
may  be  done  with  a  hoe  and  brush ;  the  soot  must  be  drawn 
to  the  place  where  the  tiles  are  taken  off.  The  flue  being 
cleansed,  it  is  next  to  be  examined  outwardly,  the  tiles  pro- 
perly replaced,  repaired,  and  white-washed ;  the  back  wall, 
and  every  part  of  the  brick  work,  must  also  be  white-washed, 
which  will  be  of  material  benefit  to  the  plants,  when  growing 
in  the  house. 

Lime-washing  improves  the  appearance  of  the  house,  and 
is  a  great  preventative  against  the  many  insects  which  infest 
plants.  If  a  portion  of  sulphur  be  beaten  fine,  and  mixed 
with  the  wash  intended  for  the  flue,  the  red  spider,  that 
minute  pest  to  plants,  will  be  greatly  deterred  from  injuring 
those  which  are  at  the  dry  end  of  the  house. 

The  furnace  is  next  to  be  inspected  and  repaired.  The 
internal  part  of  the  house  being  cleansed  and  repaired,  the 
roof  should  be  inspected,  and  all  broken  glass  repaired.  The 
wood  work  should  be  painted  if  required,  and,  in  fact,  every 
part  put  in  perfect  order. 

When  the  house  is  filled  with  plants,  great  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  allow  any  leaves  or  filth  to  collect,  as  it  occasions 
an  impure  air,  which  often  causes  the  plants  to  have  a  sickly 
appearance. 

The  leaves  of  plants  being  porous,  and  having  the  power 
of  absorbing  the  surrounding  air  in  which  they  grow,  it  is 
evident  that  their  health  greatly  depends  on  the  pure  state  of 
it ;  consequently,  care  should  be  taken  to  obtain  that  which 
is  most  congenial,  and  which  will  be  found  to  be  a  sweet 
aid  pleasant  internal  heat. 


CHAPTER    II. 

On  the  Management  of  Green-house  Plants. 

ART.  1. — Taking  the  Plants  into  winter  quarters,  and  Potting. 

IN  treating  of  the  management  of  green-house  plants,  tak- 
ing them  into  winter  quarters  should  be  the  first  consideration. 
This  must  be  attended  to  about  the  middle  of  September,  al- 
though in  many  cases  it  may  be  deferred  to  the  beginning  of 
October ;  yet  the  latter  month  cannot  be  recommended,  as  in 
many  instances  plants  are  much  injured  by  frost  before  that 
time,  particularly  in  the  eastern  and  northern  States. 

Potting  the  plants. — Previous  to  taking  the  plants  into  the 
house,  those  that  require  repotting  into  a  fresh  compost  should 
be  attended  to,  in  order  that  they  may  be  well  rooted  and 
established  in  the  pots,  so  that  they  may  have  a  good  appear- 
ance in  the  house ;  many  others,  that  are  not  properly  green- 
house plants,  may  be  potted  and  taken  in,  to  flower  during 
the  winter,  as  the  Polyanthus,  Primrose,  Stock- gilliflower, 
Carnations,  and  others ;  also,  many  varieties  of  bulbous  roots 
may  be  potted,  as  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  and  Narcissus,  which 
will  flower  and  decorate  the  house  in  winter. 

Before  the  plants  are  taken  into  the  house,  the  pots  require 
to  be  cleansed  of  all  dirt,  or  any  substance  attached  to  them  ; 
all  dead  leaves  should,  also,  at  this  time  be  taken  from  the 
plants :  indeed,  everything  should  be  done  to  bring  them  into 
the  house  as  clean  as  possible. 

ART.  2. — Arranging  the  Plants  in  the  House. 
To  put  the  plants  in  proper  order,  requires  some  taste  and 
judgment.     Most   plants   have  a  peculiar  location  in  their 
native  state ;  therefore  it  is  equally  requisite  that  they  have 
something  similar  in  their  artificial  location. 

The    Geranium,  or  Pelargonium,  may  be  placed   in  a 

148 


MANAGEMENT   OF   GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS.  149 

situation  as  close  as  possible  to  the  glass,  where  they  can 
obtain  the  full  influence  of  the  sun.  The  Camellia,  on  the 
contrary,  requires  a  shady  situation,  but  'should  be  so  placed, 
that  a  free  circulation  of  air  can  act  upon  it,  which  should  be 
wholesome,  or  the  flower  buds  will  eventually  drop  off  before 
they  expand.  All  kinds  of  succulent  plants,  as  the  Cactus, 
and  Aloe,  should  be  placed  on  shelves,  in  a  warm,  dry  situa- 
t  on,  where  they  can  receive  the  sun  and  air,  which  is  at  the 
east  end.  On  the  front  shelves,  small  plants,  of  almost  every 
kind,  of  a  hardy  nature,  may  be  placed ;  and  particularly  such 
as  the  China  roses,  bulbs,  and  those  of  a  dwarf  habit.  If 
this  plan  be  observed,  their  appearance  will  be  graceful  and 
pleasing. 

Some  taste  is  also  required  in  arranging  the  plants  in  such 
a  manner,  that  the  whole  form  a  mingled  group,  not  too  for- 
mal. Their  various  colors  and  forms  should  be  so  managed, 
that  there  is  not  too  much  sameness,  which  will  be  the  case 
if  several  plants  of  a  similar  kind  are  put  together.  Some 
plants,  of  tall  habit,  should  be  selected  and  placed  separately, 
where  they  can  be  seen  to  good  advantage. 

ART.  3. — Watering  the  Plants. 

The  best  criterion  for  watering  the  plants,  is  to  observe 
those  which  dry  the  earth  in  the  pots  soonest;  such  will 
generally  require  the  most  water ;  but  there  is  an  exception  to 
this  rule  in  the  fleshy  plants,  as  the  Cactus,  and  succulent 
tribe,  which  require  water  but  seldom,  during  the  winter 
months;  but  when  the  spring  commences,  then  most  plants 
require  water  more  abundantly,  especially  those  in  a  growing 
state. 

All  kinds  of  evergreens,  in  a  growing  state,  should  be  well 
•watered :  as  the  Myrtle,  Orange,  Lemon,  Laurestinus,  &c. 
China  roses  require  often  watering,  and  so  do  also  the  Calla 
sethiopica ;  however,  if  pans  containing  water  are  kept  un- 
der them  the  better ;  though  not  generally  recommended  in  a 
green-house. 

N2 


150          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

In  some  cases,  plants  are  much  benefited  by  watering  them 
all  over;  this  must,  however,  be  done  cautiously,  and  at  a 
time  when  the  water  will  quickly  dry  upon  them  ;  for  if  it  is 
left  on  them  too  long,  it  greatly  injures  them,  and  prevents 
their  respiration  and  perspiration. 

The  time  of  watering  plants  must  depend  on  circumstances; 
the  evening  is  the  best,  early  in  the  autumn,  after  a  fine  sunny 
day ;  but  in  the  winter  months,  the  morning  is  the  best ;  for, 
by  watering  in  the  evening,  in  winter,  both  the  house  and 
the  plants  are  injured,  by  being  cooled  too  much.  A  water- 
pot,  with  a  rose,  is  most  to  be  recommended,  as  it  is  not  so 
likely  to  wash  the  earth  out  of  the  pots,  which  injures  those 
roots  near  the  surface. 

ART.  4. — Temperature  of  the  House. 

Admitting  air  to  the  green-house,  requires  some  care  and 
practical  knowledge ;  to  do  it  properly,  regard  must  be  had 
to  the  nature  of  the  plants,  and  the  time  of  the  year.  When 
the  plants  are  first  housed  in  the  autumn,  the  sashes  should  be 
wholly  let  down  during  the  day,  and  the  house  closed  at 
about  half  an  hour  before  sun-set. 

As  the  winter  approaches,  and  the  air  gets  colder,  it  must 
be  admitted  more  moderately  in  the  morning,  and  the  house 
closed  sooner  in  the  evening,  in  order  to  shut  in  the  sun  heat. 
The  temperature  of  the  house  will  depend  on  what  state  the 
plants  are  to  be  kept  in. 

The  green-house  is  mostly  considered  as  mere  winter 
quarters  for  plants — to  keep  out  the  frost  is  considered  suffi- 
cient; but,  for  my  own  part,  I  think  the  green-house  should 
be  made  as  inviting  as  possible  in  the  winter,  and  the  plants 
forwarded  a  little,  and  forced  into  flower,  for  the  gratification 
of  those  who  visit.  The  house,  under  such  circumstances, 
will  require  to  be  kept  warmer  than  usual,  by  five  or  ten 
degrees. 

The  temperature  of  the  green-house  is  usually  regulated 
by  the  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit,  and  the  principal  object  is 


GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS    AND    POTTING.  151 

to  keep  it  a  little  above  freezing,  say  from  thirty-six  to  forty 
degrees,  in  a  cold  night ;  but  to  forward  plants  to  an  early 
flowering,  from  forty  to  forty-five  degrees  is  the  lowest  it 
should  be  allowed  to  fall  to.  The  heat  in  the  day-time,  when 
the  sun  shines,  may  be  allowed  to  rise  fifteen  degrees  higher 
than  at  night. 

In  conclusion,  I  must  again  particularly  recommend  that 
the  plants  be  kept  cleansed  from  all  dead  leaves,  and  other 
filth,  that  may  either  be  attached  to  the  pots  or  plants :  the 
pots  must  be  either  washed  or  new  ones  used  in  shifting, 
about  the  beginning  of  March,  so  that  they  have  a  clean  and 
healthy  appearance ;  the  shelves  should  be  often  cleaned  dur- 
ing the  winter,  and  the  pots  often  moved,  to  prevent  water 
from  collecting  under  them,  which  stagnates,  and  injures  the 
roots.  It  is  also  very  requisite  that  a  quantity  of  water,  of  a 
proper  temperature,  be  always  kept  in  the  house  for  watering 
the  plants,  and  to  be  at  hand  in  case  of  fire.  Every  attention 
should  be  paid  to  the  hottest  end  of  the  flue ;  no  chips,  or 
shavings,  should  be  left  near  it,  which,  in  many  cases,  I  be- 
lieve, have  been  the  cause  of  the  destruction  of  the  house  by 
fire.  The  house  should  be  examined  during  the  winter,  and 
if  any  parts,  in  consequence  of  the  severe  heat  have  given 
way,  they  should  be  immediately  repaired. 

Anx.  5. — Descriptive  List  of  Green-house  Plants. 
In  forming  a  Descriptive  List  of  green-house  plants,  I  have 
selected  those  kinds  which  are  of  easy  culture,  and  free  flow- 
ering. Some  attention  has  also  been  paid  to  select  such  kinds 
as  would  give  a  variety  of  flowers  during  the  season,  with  the 
addition  of  the  list  of  the  Geranium,  Camellia,  &c.,  that  are 
to  follow.  No  particular  attention  has  been  paid  to  those 
plants  of  a  recent  introduction,  unless  they  have  been  proved 
worthy  of  notice  as  standard  varieties;  the  principal  object 
of  the  list  being  to  describe  such  plants  only,  as  are  hoped  to 
be  worthy  always  of  a  place  in  the  green-house. 


152 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN   COMPANION. 


Those  marked  thus  *,  are  running  vines,  adapted  to  train  on  walls,  pil- 
lars, &c.  ;   those  marked  with  the  initials,  E.  S.,  are  evergreen  shrubs  ; 
those  with  D.  S.,  deciduous  shrubs;  and  those  with  P.  E.,  plants  that  re- 

quire to  be  grown 

in  dry  peat  earth. 

Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color.    Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

ACACIA. 

ACACIA.  E.  S. 

verticillata 

whorl-leaved 

Yellow     6 

March,  April. 

armata 

prickly 

Yellow     4 

March,  April. 

suaveolens 

sweet-scented 

Yellow     3 

Feb.,  June. 

decipens 

paradoxical 

Yellow      3 

March,  June. 

longifolia 

long-leaved 

Yellow    10 

March,  April. 

lophanta 

two-spiked 

Yellow     8 

March,  April. 

AGAPANTHUS. 

AFRICAN  LILT. 

Fleshy  rooted. 

umbellatus 

large-flower 

Blue         3 

April,  June. 

variegatus 

striped-leaved 

LJlue         2 

April,  June. 

BANKSIA. 

BAXKSIA.  E.  S. 

serrata 

saw-leaved 

Yellow    12 

July,  Sept. 

grandis 

great-flowering 

Yellow     4 

May,  Aug. 

speciosa 

long-leaved 

Green       5 

May,  Aug. 

BUDDLEA. 

BUDDLEA.  E.  S, 

globosa 

round-headed 

Orange   15 

May,  June. 

BEAUFORTIA. 

BEAUFORTIA.  E 

.S. 

decussata 

splendid 

Scarlet      3 

May,  July. 

sparsa 

alternate-leaved 

Red          3 

May,  July. 

BOUVARDIA. 

BOUVARDIA.  E. 

S. 

triphylla 

three-leaved 

Scarlet     V 

April,  May. 

versicolor 

various-colored 

Red           2 

July,  Sept. 

BURCHELLIA. 

BrRCHELLIA. 

capensis 

cape 

Scarlet      3 

March,  June. 

speciosa 

showy 

Scarlet      2 

June. 

CALCEOLARIA 

,    SLIPPERWORT. 

* 

rugosa 

rugose 

Yellow      2 

July,  Sept. 

Smithii 

Smiths' 

R.  yellow  1 

March,  April. 

venusta 

veined 

B.  yellow  1 

March,  April. 

angustifolia 

narrow-leaved 

Yellow      1 

March,  April. 

metia 

meteor-like 

Bi.  crim.   1 

March,  ApriL 

CALLA. 

CALLA. 

sethiopica 

Ethiopiar 

White       2 

March,  June. 

CORR^EA. 

CORR^A. 

alba 

white-flowered 

White      3 

March. 

speciosa 

red-flowered 

Red           3 

March,  April. 

\irens 

green-flowered 

Green        3 

May,  Nov. 

*COBJGA. 

COBSU. 

scandens 

climbing 

Purple    15 

May,  Oct. 

CORONILLA. 

COROXILLA. 

valentina 

nine-leaved 

Yellow      3 

March,  Nov. 

glauca 

smooth 

Yellow      3 

Jan.,  March. 

MANAGEMENT   OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS. 


153 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color.    Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

CITRUS. 

ORANGE-TREE. 

myrtifolia 

Myrtle-leaved 

White       3  ft. 

April,  May. 

limonum 

Lemon 

White     12 

April,  May. 

Aurantium 

sweet 

White     15 

April,  May. 

nobilis 

Mandarin 

White    15 

April,  May. 

CYC  AS. 

SAGO-PALM:. 

revoluta 

narrow-leaved 

3 

DAPHNE. 

DAPHNE. 

odora 

sweet-scented 

Purple      2 

Feb.,  March. 

variegata 

variegated 

Purple      2 

Feb.,  March. 

indica  rubra 

red 

Red           2 

Feb.,  March. 

DIOSMA. 

DIOSMA.  P.  E. 

odora 

sweet-scented 

White      2 

March. 

capitata 
hirsuta 

headed 
hairy-leaved 

Purple      2 
Pink         2 

March,  May. 
March. 

ciliata 

eye  -lash 

White      3 

March. 

latifolia 

broad-leaved 

White      3 

March. 

EPACRIS. 

EPACRIS.  P.  E. 

grandiflora 

great 

Crimson   2 

Feb.,  June. 

pulchella 

sweet-scented 

Pink         4 

April,  June. 

purpuracens 

purpurascent 

Purple      3 

Jan.,  March. 

FICUS. 

FIG-TREE.  E.  S. 

elasticus 

Indian  Rubber 

8 

FUCHSIA. 

EAR  DROP.  D.  S. 

coccinea 

scarlet 

Scarlet      3 

April,  Sept 

gracilis 

slender 

Scarlet      3 

April,  Sept. 

globosa  major 

globe-flowered 

Scarlet      2 

April,  Sept 

microphylla 

small-leaved 

Scarlet      2 

April,  Sept 

GARDENIA. 

GARDENIA.  P.  E. 

florida 

Cape  Jasmine 

White      4 

May,  Sept 

radicans 

rooting 

White       1 

May,  Sept 

GNAPHALIUM. 

EVERLASTING-FLOWER.  P.  E. 

glomeratum 

cluster-flowered 

Yellow      1 

March,  June. 

HELIOTROPIUM. 

HELIOTROPE. 

peruvianum 

Peruvian 

Purple      2 

March,  Sept. 

grand  iflorum 

large-flowered 

Purple      3 

March,  Sept 

HOYA. 

HOTA. 

*carnosa 

fleshy-leaved 

Pink         4 

April,  May. 

HYDRANGEA. 

HYDRANGEA. 

hortensis 

changeable 

Red,  Blue 

April,  Sept 

ILLICIUM. 

ANISEED-TREE. 

floridanum 

red-flowered 

Red          2 

March,  April. 

IRIS. 

IRIS. 

chinensis 

Chinese 

Blue         1 

March,  April. 

susiana 

Chalcedonian 

Striped      1 

Feb.,  March.  -- 

KEXNEDIA. 

KENNEDIA. 

•  i> 

*rubicunda 

dingy-flowered 

Scarlet      2 

Feb.,  June. 

*  coccinea 

scarlet 

Scarlet      3 

Feb.,  June. 

154 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN    COMPANION. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color.    Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

comptoniana 

Compton's 

Blue          6  ft. 

March,  June. 

cordifolia 

heart-leaved 

6 

March. 

LAGERSTRCEMIA.  LAGERSTROZMIA. 

iadica 

Indian 

Red           5 

May,  Sept. 

LAVENDULA. 

LAVENDER. 

dentata 

tooth-leaved 

Lilac         2 

April,  May. 

LINUM. 

FLAX. 

trigynum 

three-styled 

Orange     2 

Dec.,  March. 

MAGNOLIA. 

MAGNOLIA. 

purpurea 

purple 

Purple      2 

March,  April. 

conspicua 

downy-leaved 

White      3 

Dec.,  Feb. 

grand  iflora 

laurel-leaved 

White      4 

MANETTIA. 

MANETTIA. 

bicolor 

two-colored 

Red,  Yell.  S 

Jan.,  March. 

cordifolia 

heart-leaved 

Scarlet      3 

April,  May. 

MARICA. 

MARICA. 

caerula 

blue 

Blue          1 

Jan.,  March. 

MYRTUS. 

COMMON  MTRTLE. 

E.S. 

communis 

common 

White       3 

variegata 

variegated 

White      2 

METROSIDEROS.METROSIDEROS.  p. 

E. 

saligna 

willow-leaved 

Crimson   4 

March,  May. 

lanceolatus 

spear-leaved 

Crimson  4 

March,  May. 

speciosus 

showy 

Crimson   4 

March,  May. 

NANDINA. 

NAJTDITTA. 

domestica 

panicled 

4 

NERIUM. 

ROSE-BAT.  E.  S. 

splendens 

double-hybrid 

Red           4 

May,  Sept. 

album 

white-flowered 

White      4 

May,  Sept. 

variegatum 

variegated 

Striped     4 

May,  Sept 

OLEA. 

OLIVE-TREE.  E.  S. 

fragrans 

fragrant 

White      3 

March,  May. 

PASSIFLORA. 

PASSION-TLOWER. 

*alata 

wing-stalked 

Varieg.    15 

March,  Nov. 

*princeps 

15 

March,  Nov. 

*racemosa 

racemose 

Striped    20 

March,  Oct. 

*coerula 

blue-flowered 

Blue         3 

May,  June. 

Jefferiesi 

Jefferies' 

Crimson  10 

Aug.,  Sept. 

Loudoni 

Loudons* 

Scarlet    10 

Aug.,  Sept. 

PASSERINA. 

SPARROW-WORT.  E.  S. 

filiformis 

heath-leaved 

White       1 

June,  Aug. 

grandiflora 

great-flowered 

White       1$ 

May,  June. 

PITTOSPORUM. 

PITTOSPORUM.  E.  S. 

tobira 

Chinese 

White      3 

April,  May. 

undulatum 

wave-leaved 

White      3 

April,  May. 

PLUMBAGO. 

LEAD-WORT. 

capensis 

cape 

Blue        2 

April,  May. 

MANAGEMENT   OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS. 


155 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color.  Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

POLYGLA. 

MILK-WORT. 

myrtifolia 

myrtle-leaved 

Purple 

3 

March,  April. 

speciosa 

showy 

Purple 

3 

March,  April. 

cordifolia 

heart-leaved 

Red 

3 

March,  April. 

PROTEA. 

PHOTEA.  E.  S. 

speciosa 

splendid 

Purple 

2 

March,  June. 

longifjlia 

long-leaved 

Purple 

2 

March,  April. 

STRELITZIA. 

STRELITZIA.  Fleshy  rooted. 

reginae 

queens 

Yellow 

2 

May,  Sept. 

THE  A. 

TEA-PLANT.  E.  S. 

veridis 

green 

White 

3 

March. 

bohea 

black 

White 

3 

March. 

ART.  6. — Tender  Bulbous  Rooted  Plants. 

The  varieties  named  in  the  following  list  are  of  easy  cul- 
ture, and  are  deserving  a  place  in  every  green-house.  Most 
of  them  are  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  or  South 
America,  and  require  to  be  placed,  when  in  a  growing  state, 
in  a  warm  part  of  the  house,  where  they  will  flower  in  great 
perfection,  if  properly  managed.  A  compost  of  two  thirds 
good  mellow  loam,  with  a  portion  of  good  rotten  leaf  mould, 
and  sand  enough  to  give  a  free  passage  for  the  water  to  pass 
through  readily,  will  answer  most  kinds  of  tender  bulbs. 
One  great  point  in  the  cultivation  of  these  plants,  is  that  they 
are  allowed  a  certain  time  of  rest  natural  to  them,  and  the 
neglect  of  this,  and  endeavoring  to  keep  them  always  in  a 
growing  state,  is  the  cause  of  many  failures  in  their  cultiva- 
tion. 

Supposing  the  bulbs  to  be  in  a  state  of  vegetation,  pot  them 
into  the  compost  above  recommended.  In  doing  this, 
care  should  be  taken  that  the  bulbs  are  not  buried  too  deep. 
They  should  be  merely  pressed  into  the  compost,  so  that 
the  crown  of  the  bulb  is  above  the  surface  of  the  earth 
when  potted.  When  potted  they  should  be  placed  in  a 
dark  situation  for  a  few  days,  until  they  begin  to  make 
roots,  the  plants  may  then  be  moderately  watered,  and  as 
the  roots  make  their  growth  the  watering  and  heat  may  be 
increased  until  they  are  in  full  growth,  when  plenty  of  heat 


156          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

and  water  should  be  applied.  After  the  flowering  is  over, 
and  the  plants  have  passed  their  vigor,  the  leaves  will  begin 
to  have  a  yellow  color,  then  the  watering  must  be  gradually 
decreased  until  the  leaves  decay,  when  the  bulbs  will  require 
rest.  They  should  then  be  placed  away  in  the  pots,  in  the 
earth,  on  dry  shelves,  and  the  watering  must  be  suspended 
for  a  month  or  two  until  they  are  again  in  a  state  to  com- 
mence vegetation.  The  great  point  in  growing  tender  bulbs 
is  to  increase  the  watering  and  heat  with  their  growth,  and 
to  decrease  with  their  ripening  to  maturity,  and  keeping 
them  dry  when  in  a  state  of  rest.  In  potting,  the  rule  must 
be  to  pot  the  large  kinds,  as  the  Amaryllis,  single,  one  bulb 
in  a  pot,  and  the  Babianas,  Oxalis,  and  the  like,  three  or  four 
bulbs  in  smaller  sized  pots  to  correspond.  In  the  green- 
house the  small  varieties  are  particularly  adapted  for  the 
front  shelves  or  staging,  whilst  the  larger  species,  as  the 
Amaryllis,  are  the  best  adapted  for  the  warmer  parts  of  the 
house.  All  the  Oxalis  are  much  benefited  by  light  and 
having  the  influence  of  the  sun. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  tender  bulbs  which  are 
planted  in  the  ground  about  the  middle  of  May,  for  summer 
or  autumn  blooming.  The  Gladiolus  and  Tiger-flower  are 
of  this  kind,  and  are  marked  thus  *,  in  the  following  list,  as 
are  all  others  used  for  that  purpose.  The  management  of 
these  bulbs  is  simply  to  plant  them  in  vacant  places  of  the 
flower  borders,  or  in  separate  beds,  as  directed  for  the  Tulip 
and  Hyacinth ;  the  bulbs  must  be  taken  from  the  ground 
before  the  approach  of  winter,  as  they  will  not  bear  any  frost. 
They  are  to  be  kept  in  boxes,  in  a  dry  room,  or  on  shelves 
in  the  green-house,  during  winter,  and  be  replanted  in  the 
proper  season,  as  before  recommended. 


MANAGEMENT   OF    GREEN-HOUSE   PLANTS. 


157 


Tender  Bulbous  Rooted  Plants. 


Name.       Color.  Time  of  flowering. 
ACHIMENES. 

coccinea       scarlet  May,  June, 

grandiflora   large  flow'rd  May,  June, 
hirsuta          hairy  leaved  May. 
longiflora      long  flow'rd  May. 
picta  red  &  yellow  May. 

rosea  rose  colored  May. 

ALSTRQEMERIA. 
Pelegrina      striped          June,  Sept. 
Ligtu  striped          Feb.  March. 

Hookerii       roseate 
Flos  Martini  w.  pur.  y.    Jan. 
tricolor         three  colored  May,  June. 
AMARYLLIS. 

Johnsoni  crimson  April,  May. 
*formosissima  crimson  May,  June. 
vittata  variegated  May,  June, 

psittacina     scarlet  May,  Aug. 

insignis        scarlet  July,  Aug. 

equestris       scarlet  Aug.  Sept 

Belladonna  flesh  color  July,  Sept. 
ANTHOLYZA. 

ffithiopica      orange          May,  June, 
vittigera        orange          Jan. 
BABIANA. 

rubro  cyanea  red,  blue  March,  Ap. 
plicata  purple  March,  Ap. 

sulphurea      yellow          March,  Ap. 
tubiflora         yellow,  red   June. 
villosa  hairy  March,  Ap. 

BRUNSVIGEA 

Josephinse  Brunsw'k  lily  July,Aug. 
multiflora  many-flow'rd  July,  Aug. 
CRINUM. 

americanum  July,  Aug. 

Commelini  June,  Aug. 

longitblium  June,  Aug. 

amcenum  June,  Aug. 

august um  June,  Aug. 

amabile  June,  Aug. 

CYCLAMEN 

coum  red  Jan.  April, 

hederaefol.     purple          April. 
Europseum  light  red       Aug. 
Persicum      red  &  white  March,  Ap. 
album  white  March,  A  p. 

DIANELLA. 

csevulea        blue  May,  Aug. 

divaricala     blue  July,  Aug. 

o 


Name.        Color.    Time  of  flowering. 
EUCOMIS. 

punctata  variegated  June,  July. 
GLADIOLUS. 

versicolor      variegated     May,  June, 
cardinalis      dark  red       May,  July. 
psittacinus    yellow 
*floribundus  many  flow'rd  blush. 
*roseus         rose  colored. 
*Colvillii      red  &  yellow. 
*formosissimus  splendid  scarlet. 
*prsecox. 

H^EMANTHUS. 
coccinius       scarlet  June,  Aug. 

carneus        red  June,  July. 

IRIS. 

moraeoides  April,  Aug. 

persica          Persian         March. 
IXIA. 

crateroides  crimson  May,  July, 
conica  orange  May,  June, 

maculata     spotted  April,  May. 

leucantha    white,  blue     April. 
LACHENALIA. 

tricolor  three  col'd  March,  Ap. 
quadricolor  four  colored  March,  Ap. 
pendula  variegated  Mav,  June. 
LILIUM. 

longiflorum  long  flowered  white, 
concolor        red  flowered, 
punctatum    spotted  with  red. 
rubrum         blush,  spotted  with  crim- 
[son,  magnificent. 
Japonicum   branching  white. 
Japonicum  nova  orange. 
Thunbergia  dark  red. 
NERINE. 

undulata       waved  May,  June, 

alba  white  May,  June, 

ver.usta         scarlet  May,  June. 

OXALIS. 

versicolor      variegated     Jan.  Mar. 
caprina         red  Feb. 

crenata          red  March, 

fabaefolia       yellow  Oct. 

rosacea          pink  Feb.  Mar. 

Bo\vii  crimson        SepL  Nov. 

ORNITHOGALUM. 
niveum         white  Aug. 

flavum  yellow          June,  July. 


' 


158 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Name.       Color.  Time  of  flowering, 
altissimum    white  June,  Aug. 

PANCRATIUM, 
angustum  narrow  leaved  May,  Aug. 
amoenum  May,  Aug. 

rotatum    wheel  crowned  May,  Aug. 
speciosum     showy  May,  Aug. 

POLIANTHES  TUBEROSE. 
*tuberosa       tuberous        Aug.  Sept. 
*pleno  double  white  Aug.  Sept. 

SPAR  AXIS, 
lutescens      yellow  Ap.  May. 


Name.        Color.  Time  of  flowering, 
cerulescens    bluish  A  p.  May. 

coclestris        pale  blue.      Ap.  May. 
tricolor          three  colored, 
picta  painted.         Ap.  May. 

I'IGRIDA,  TIGER-FLOWER. 
*conchiflora  yellow  Aug.  Sept. 

*pavonia       red  Aug.  Sept. 

TRITONIA. 

crispa  flesh  color     May,  June. 

rocata          saffroned       May,  June, 
pink  June,  July. 


CHAPTER    III. 


On.  the  Culture  of  the  Camellia  Japonica. 

Anr.  1. — Remarks. 

THE  Camellia  Japonica,  or  Japan  Rose,  may  be  considered 
as  one  of  the  nobles  of  the  green-house,  during  the  period  of 
its  flowering,  which  happens,  in  a  good  selection,  from  No- 
vember until  April.  No  collection  of  green-house  plants  can 
be  said  to  be  complete,  unless  it  contains  several  varieties  of 
these  beautiful  plants.  The  foliage  is  glossy,  and  of  a  per- 
petual green,  which  affords  a  striking  contrast  of  shade  with 
the  flowers.  When  we  consider  its  longevity,  annual  in- 
crease in  magnitude  and  blossom,  together  with  its  easy  and 
simple  culture,  under  proper  treatment,  it  is  a  most  desirable 
plant.  It  should  be  cultured  in  the  following  manner : 

In  its  location,  either  in  the  green-house  or  open  air,  dur- 
ing the  summer  season,  the  plants  must  be  partially  excluded 
from  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  especially  at  midday,  at 
which  time  it  often  burns  and  injures  the  leaves,  and  also 
damages  the  plant.  Too  much  fire  heat,  in  a  confined  situa- 
tion, is  also  injurious  to  the  Camellia,  and  frequently  causes 


CULTURE    OF    THE    CAMELLIA   JAPONICA.  159 

the  buds  to  fall  off  before  they  expand ;  every  opportunity 
should  be  taken  to  afford  it  plenty  of  air. 

Propagation. — The  methods  of  increasing  the  Camellia 
are  various,  viz.  by  cuttings,  layers,  buds,  and  inarching  the 
finer  sorts  on  the  single  flowering  red. 

The  most  successful  and  generally  adopted  plan  is,  how- 
ever, to  propagate  the  single  red,  by  cuttings  from  off  the 
young  wood,  which  should  be  taken  from  the  plant  in  Sep- 
tember or  October,  and  rooted,  either  under  hand  or  bell 
glasses.  The  method  of  performing  this,  is  to  prepare  a 
sharp  sandy  loam,  which  is  put  into  pots,  or  on  a  bed,  with 
a  quantity  of  old  tan  underneath  ;  the  cuttings  are  put  into  the 
pots  in  the  usual  manner.  When  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted, 
which  will  be  in  two  or  three  months,  they  may  be  put  into 
small  pots  of  light  earth,  or  sandy  loam,  mixed  with  a  quan- 
tity of  leaf  mould.  They  should  remain  in  these  pots  until 
they  are  filled  with  roots;  they  are  then  to  be  shifted  into 
pots  of  a  larger  size,  for  the  purpose  of  inarching;  the  best 
time  for  this  is  the  latter  end  of  February,  or  beginning  of 
March,  and  the  scion  may  be  taken  from  the  mother  plant  in 
August,  if  well  united. 

Management  in  the  Green-house. — The  Camellia  should 
be  placed  in  the  house  so  as  to  be  partially  shaded  from  the 
sun ;  and  if  on  the  ground  where  some  sand  has  been  placed, 
the  better.  They  will  require  a  moderate  watering,  in  order 
to  fully  expand  their  flowers  ;  and  if  moderately  syringed  in 
fine  weather  at  sun  rise,  they  will  be  much  benefited  in  their 
flowering :  but  care  must  be  taken  that  it  is  not  done  too 
copiously,  for  if  the  water  remains  too  long  on  the  buds,  it 
often  causes  them  to  fall  off;  if  they  are  kept  too  dry, 
especially  when  much  tire  heat  is  applied,  they  will  also  fail. 
The  leaves  should  be  often  sprinkled,  morning  and  evening, 
as  they  absorb  a  considerable  quantity  of  moisture ;  being 
elastic,  the  leaves  of  the  Camellia  perspire  less  than  those 
of  deciduous  plants,  and  consequently  act  as  a  reservoir  of 
nutriment,  as  we  see  by  experiment ;  if  a  Camellia  loses  its 


160          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

leaves  death  often  ensues,  which  is  not  the  case  with  decidu- 
ous plants  and  shrubs.  I  have  had  evident  proof  that  by 
refreshing  Camellias  in  this  way,  it  gives  health  and  vigor  to 
them,  and,  at  certain  seasons,  causes  the  sap  to  descend,  and 
buds  will  burst  forth  from  the  bare  parts  of  the  plant  even 
when  it  has  been  divested  of  all  the  fibrous  roots  but  a  short 
time  before.  And  further,  this  process  is  essential  to  the 
flowering  of  the  plant.  I  have  seen  instances  of  large 
flowers  being  produced  from  plants  almost  rootless ;  the 
watering,  or  sprinkling  over  of  these  plants,  may  be  done 
more  or  less  according  to  the  season,  and  the  state  of  the 
internal  air  in  the  situation  in  which  they  are  growing. 

In  the  spring,  when  the  flowering  is  over  and  the  plants 
begin  to  grow,  refresh  them  often  at  their  roots,  as  they 
require  a  considerable  quantity  of  water  when  in  a  growing 
state. 

Care  should  be  taken,  not  to  water  the  top  of  the  plant 
while  in  flower,  when  the  sun  shines  on  it,  which  causes  the 
blossoms  to  have  spots  on  them,  by  the  water  collecting  on 
their  petals,  and  especially  on  the  white  kinds.  This  process 
may  be  omitted  in  cloudy  weather,  as  they  will  not  be  in  a 
proper  state  to  imbibe  the  water;  the  plants  will  not  dry  their 
foliage  or  buds,  in  consequence  of  which  the  moistened  buds 
will,  in  a  measure,  decay,  and  the  calyx  fall  off  when  the 
flower  expands;  this  appears  to  be  owing  to  that  part  being 
moistened  too  long,  which  prevents  respiration,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  it  becomes  inert,  and  putrefaction  follows. 

The  heat  of  the  house  should  be  moderate,  from  forty  to 
forty-five  degrees,  and  at  all  times  a  wholesome  and  mellow 
internal  heat  and  air,  should  be  the  principal  aim  of  the  man- 
ager; extremes  of  either  are  always  injurious. 

Repotting  the  plants. — Shifting  or  repotting  the  Camellia 
may  be  performed  any  time  after  they  have  done  flowering, 
which  is  generally  in  the  month  of  March ;  in  doing  this,  care 
must  be  taken  to  give  plenty  of  drainage,  in  order  to  let  off 
the  water,  which  sometimes  settles  at  the  bottom  and  satu- 


CULTURE    OF    THE    CAMELLIA  JAPONICA.  161 

rates  the  soil,  and  the  consequence  is  the  roots  are  often 
rotted  off.  Broken  pots  will  answer  the  purpose  for 
drainage. 

The  soil  best  adapted  for  the  Camellia,  is  a  good  mellow 
loam,  with  a  portion  of  leaf  mould,  well  mixed  together ;  if 
the  loam  is  not  of  a  sandy  nature,  some  good  sharp  sand 
may  be  added,  to  make  it  more  porous,  for  the  fibrous  roots 
to  grow  and  work  more  freely  in. 

When  the  plants  are  potted,  they  are  to  be  located  in  such 
a  manner  that  they  may  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  air ;  if 
they  are  too  much  confined,  they  often  become  very  weak; 
they  seldom  set  their  flower  buds  strong  and  vigorous,  and, 
indeed,  it  often  causes  them  to  lose  their  buds,  and,  if  not 
this,  to  flower  weakly.  The  plants  at  this  time  require 
plenty  of  water,  to  cause  them  to  grow  freely  and  strong. 
As  early  as  the  weather  will  permit,  the  plants  may  be  taken 
from  the  green-house,  and  placed  in  their  summer  situation, 
which  should  be  in  a  north  or  northeast  aspect;  where  they 
are  fully  exposed  to  the  air  and  not  under  the  drip  of  trees 
or  buildings. 

The  following  list  of  Camellias  was  kindly  selected  by 
Marshal  P.  Wilder,  President  of  the  Massachusetts  Horti- 
cultural Society,  and  are  varieties  which  he  has  proven  to  be 
worthy  of  cultivation. 

Name.  Description. 

CAMELLIA. 

Alba  pleno  double  white, 

alba  fenestrata  pure,  white,  regular  and  full. 

ama\>i\e.(~Smith'sJ  rose  and  red. 

Baltimoreana  white,  striped  with  rose.  [fine. 

Binneyii  dark  crimson,  sometimes  with  stripes,  extra 

Caroline  Smith  crimson  blush  centre,  superb. 

Carswelliana  deep  rose,  striped  with  white. 

Campomolendina  form  and  character  of  C.  imbricata,  fine. 

Candidissima  white,  very  perfect 

Conspicua  very  large  red. 

Chandlerii  Chandler's. 

Celestina  very  delicate  rose,  form  regular. 

Coquettii  rose,  striped  and  spotted  with  white,  fine. 

Collettii  rose,  profusely  marked  with  white. 

14  o2 


162 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Name. 
Donkelarii 
delicatissima 
Duchesse  d'Orleans 
Estherii,  ( Smith's J 
eclipse 
elegans 
elata 
erecta 
fimbriata 
Feastii 
Floyii 
Fordii 

Glorie  d'ltalie 
Gilesii  or  Nancy  Dawson 
imbricata 
Imbricata  alba 
Innocenza 

Jeffersonii  fGunnelTsJ 
Landrethii 
Martha  (Buist'sJ 
Myrtifoha 
Monteronii  alba 
Mrs.  Gunnell 
New  York  f  Floy's  J 
Oxriglomana  superba 
Palmer's  perfection 
Prattii  (~Buist'sJ 
picturata 
Pictorum  roseum 
Queen  Victoria 


Description. 

white,  scarlet  and  crimson,  beautiful, 
white,  striped  with  rose, 
white,  striped  and  spotted  with  rose,  fine  form, 
very  large  white,  with  rosy  stripes, 
white,  striped  with  rose, 
beautiful  rose,  white  centre.  [with  white, 

violet  red,  full,  imbricated,  occasionally  tinted 
crimson,  full,  regular  and  perfect, 
fringed  white. 

white,  with  spots  and  flakes  of  rose,  superb, 
rosy  red,  large, 
rose,  superb, 
white,  regular  form, 
fine  crimson  and  white, 
crimson,  striped  with  white, 
white,  with  pink, 
white,  regular,  full,  and  double, 
scarlet  crimson,  very  perfect  and  beautiful, 
pale  rose,  fine, 
large  white,  very  perfect, 
light  red  and  purple, 
white,  marked  with  rose,  fine  form, 
white,  very  double, 
crimson,  very  large, 
blush,  striped  with  carmine, 
dark  rose,  marked  with  white, 
beautiful  rose,  striped  with  white, 
large  white,  marked  with  red. 
vivid  rose,  fine  form, 
cherry-red,  striped  and  splashed  with  white. 


Q.  of  England  (~  Fielder's Jdelicate  rose,  marked  with  white. 


Sherwoodii 
Spiraliter  imbricata 
Saccoi  nova 
Serratifolia 
Sarah  Frost 
Sulcata 
tricolor 
Teutonia 

Violacea  superba 
Victoria  alba 
Washington  f  Boll's} 


rosy  crimson  and  white, 
rose,  full,  large,  perfect, 
clear  rose,  beautiful  shape, 
dark  rose,  beautifully  variegated  with  white, 
rosy  crimson,  very  regular  and  perfect,     [good, 
white,  with  yellowish  stripe  in  each  petal,  form 
beautifully  striped,  semi-double, 
remarkable  variety — producing  white  and  rose- 
[colored  flowers  on  the  same  branch, 
carmine  and  violet,  very  large.  [large, 

white,  occasionally  touched  with  red,  full  and 
white,  shaded  with  rose.      [perfect  and  superb. 


Washington  (~  Gunnell' sj  light  cherry  red,  faintly  striped  with  white,  very 
Wilderii  beautiful  rose,  very  distinct  in  color,  regular 

and  full  to  the  centre,  and  of  the  most 

exquisite  formation. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Geranium,  China  Rose,  and  Verbena. 

ART.  1 . — The  Geranium,  or  Pelargonium. 

THIS  beautiful  tribe  of  plants  are  mostly  natives  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  their  elegance,  when  in  a  flowering 
state,  particularly  recommends  them  to  every  lover  of  flow- 
ers ;  indeed,  no  green-house  is  perfect  without  a  good  collec- 
tion of  them. 

The  general  management  of  the  Geranium  is  something 
different  from  the  Camellia,  although  they  will  both  thrive 
well  in  the  same  house,  and  with  the  same  heat;  but  their 
location  should  be  different,  as  they  require  to  be  situated  so 
as  to  obtain  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air,  and  as  near  the 
glass  as  possible.  If  this  is  not  done,  the  wood  will  grow 
weak  and  succulent,  and,  consequently,  will  seldom  flower 
strong  and  healthy. 

Propagation,  or  increase. — The  Geranium  is  increased 
by  cuttings,  in  the  months  of  August  and  September,  or  at 
any  time  when  the  young  wood  is  well  ripened;  or,  by  its 
roots  being  cut  into  joints  and  inserted  in  a  pot  of  compost, 
and  treated  the  same  as  cuttings. 

The  compost  best  adapted  for  this  purpose,  is  one-third 
sandy  loam,  one-third  peat,  with  a  little  rotten  leaf  mould,  and 
some  river  sand. 

When  the  compost  is  prepared,  begin  to  propagate  by  cut- 
ting the  ends  of  the  cuttings  to  a  joint,  transversely,  and  in  a 
clean  manner ;  then  take  the  pot,  which  should  be  six  inches 
deep,  and  six  wide  at  the  top,  and  fill  it  two  inches  from  the 
bottom  with  broken  pots,  beat  fine  with  a  hammer;  after 
which,  the  remainder  should  be  filled  up  to  the  rim  with  the 
soil,  into  which  the  cuttings  may  be  inserted  half  way,  in  a 
neat  manner;  the  pots  are  then  to  be  shaken  gently,  to  close 
163 


164  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

the  earth  to  the  cuttings  ;  after  which,  they  may  be  gently 
watered,  and  the  pots  plunged  into  the  ground  to  the  rim,  in 
a  shady  situation,  under  a  wall  or  fence.  They  will  require 
to  be  watered  when  the  soil  appears  dry.  In  four  weeks, 
if  carefully  attended  to,  they  will  be  rooted,  and  fit  for  pot- 
ting off. 

Potting  the  young  plants. — When  the  cuttings  are  well 
rooted,  they  must  be  potted  singly,  into  small  pots,  three 
inches  deep,  and  the  same  in  diameter.  The  manner  of  per- 
forming this  work,  is  to  put  two  or  three  small  pieces  of 
broken  pots  at  the  bottom,  and  on  them  a  small  portion  of 
rotten  leaves,  and  fill  up  with  the  same  soil,  as  before  re- 
commended for  the  cuttings.  When  they  are  well  rooted, 
they  may  be  taken  into  the  green-house. 

The  principal  object  in  growing  the  Geranium,  being  to 
have  a  strong  dwarf  plant  for  flowering,  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  over-water  it,  nor  keep  it  too  warm.  It  should  be  al- 
ways kept  moderately  dry  about  the  roots,  and  in  small  pots 
during  the  winter  season.  When  the  plant  is  grown  four 
inches  high,  the  heart  is  to  be  pinched  out,  in  order  to  make 
it  form  a  bushy  head. 

About  the  beginning  of  February,  Geraniums  may  be 
shifted  into  the  pots  they  are  intended  to  flower  in ;  for  this 
purpose,  the  soil  should  be  similar  to  that  recommended 
above,  with  this  exception,  that  more  rotten  leaf  mould,  or 
manure,  be  added,  with  a  portion  of  bone  dust,  at  the  bottom 
of  the  pot,  which  causes  the  plants  to  flower  finer.  They 
require  a  moderate  portion  of  air  to  be  given  them,  and  more 
water,  as  the  weather  grows  warm. 

Remarks. — The  principal  thing  to  be  considered  in  grow- 
ing the  Geranium  to  perfection,  is  to  keep  the  plants  in  a 
dwarf,  bushy  state  during  winter,  and  not  excite  their  growth 
by  too  much  water  or  heat.  They  should  be  kept  moderately 
dry,  and  as  the  sun  increases,  the  plants  should  be  encouraged 
to  grow,  by  repotting  them  in  larger  pots  of  rich  compost,  and 
giving  additional  waterings. 


GERANIUMS,    CHINA   ROSE,    AND   VERBENA. 


165 


The  following  List  of  Geraniums  has  been  carefully  se- 
lected from  the  best  varieties  of  the  present  day. 

Color,  and  Descriptive  Character. 
Fine  white,  with  dark  spots. 
Blush,  white  and  rich  crimson. 
White ;  profuse  bloomer. 
Large  crimson ;  free  bloomer. 
Rose  white  and  crimson. 
Large  blush,  with  dark  crimson  spot. 
Rosy  crimson. 

Superb  pink ;  blooms  profusely. 
Delicate  rose,  with  dark  spot. 
Salmon  color ;  large,  fine  flower. 
Early  white. 
Large  rosy  red. 
Fine,  dark,  rosy  red. 
Rosy  red. 
Dark  red. 

Rose,  shaded  with  bright  red. 
Pale  pink. 

Blush,  with  dark  spot. 
Very  large  bright  red. 
Large  scarlet  crimson. 
Bright  red,  with  crimson  stripes. 
Dark  rose,  with  crimson  stripes. 
Fine  dark  crimson. 
Superb  rosy  crimson. 
Rosy  blush,  with  crimson  stripe. 
Fine,  dark,  rosy  red. 
Fine  lilac  and  crimson. 
Bright  and  crimson  j  fine  form. 
Pure  white,  with  crimson. 
Rosy  white,  marked  with  crimson, 
White,  and  dark  crimson. 
Bright  crimson  mark ;  profuse. 
Bright,  clear  red. 
Brighf  rose,  with  dark  crimson. 
Large  salmon  crimson  spot. 
Dark  rose,  ringed  with  purple. 
Delicate  rose,  dark  spot ;  fine  form. 
Waxy  pink,  and  crimson;  superb. 
Superb  white,  marked  with  red  and 
Rose,  red,  and  crimson.  [crimson. 

Pale  rose,  clouded  with  crimson ;  fine. 
Purple,  crimson;  large. 
Splendid  white. 


Name. 

Alexandriana. 
Alicia. 
Annette. 
Beauty  of  Ware. 
Blandina  Multiflora. 
Bridegroom. 
Climax. 
Calypso. 
Corinne. 
Coronation. 
Dowager  Queen. 
Discount. 
Eliza  Superba. 
Fosteri  Rosea. 
Flash. 
Flamingo. 
Fanny  Garth. 
Florence. 
Gauntlet. 
Grand  Monarque. 
Henry  Clay. 
Harrisonu. 
Jewess. 

King,  (Games'.) 
Lady  Dillon. 
Lifeguardsman. 
Lord  Aukland. 
Lenoxii,  (Buist's.) 
Mrs.  Clay. 
Mrs.  Peck,  (Bui-st's.) 
Miss  Percival,  (Buist's.) 
Mrs.  Stiles,  (Buist's.) 
Oliver  Twist 
President 

President,  (Buisfs  ) 
Perfection,  (Dennis'.) 
Robert  Buchanan,  (Ross'.) 
Sylph. 
Una. 
Vivid. 
Victory. 
Vulcan. 
Witch. 


166         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

ART.  2.— The  China  Rose. 

The  green-house  should  always  possess  a  good  collection 
of  the  Chinese  or  Ever-blooming  Rose,  and  particularly  the 
choice  varieties  of  the  Tea  Roses,  which  are  delightful  speci- 
mens for  the  spring  flowering,  although  the  common  daily, 
and  some  of  its  varieties,  are  excellent  for  buds  in  the  winter 
flowering,  and  are  much  admired  in  the  bouquet. 

To  have  roses  in  good  perfection  for  the  green-house,  they 
should  be  well  attended  to  in  the  autumn,  by  neglecting 
which,  the  China  Rose  makes  but  a  poor  show  in  the  winter. 
The  general  method  of  allowing  the  plants  of  the  China 
Rose  to  remain  in  the  ground  too  late  in  the  fall,  is  a  bad 
system ;  for  in  that  case  the  plants  do  not  have  the  chance 
of  being  well  established  to  the  pots,  before  taken  into  the 
house,  which  is  one  reason  of  their  flowering  but  indiffer- 
ently during  winter.  To  grow  roses  in  good  perfection  in 
the  green-house,  the  plants  should  be  two  years  old,  and  the 
method  I  recommend  is  to  strike  the  cutting  in  summer,  as 
directed  under  the  head  for  the  culture  of  the  rose.  The 
cuttings  may  remain  in  the  small  pots  during  winter, 
and  in  the  spring  they  may  be  plunged  into  the  ground. 
These  may  be  taken  up  and  repotted  about  the  latter  end  of 
August,  in  a  compost  of  two  thirds  good  mellow  loam  taken 
from  the  top  of  a  rich  piece  of  sod  or  pasture,  and  the 
remainder,  well  rotted  manure  or  leaf  mould,  with  a  portion 
of  good  sharp  sand ;  mix  it  well  together  and  have  your  pots 
ready  for  the  business. 

Prepare  some  pots  of  a  convenient  size  for  the  plants, 
by  placing  some  pieces  of  broken  pots  at  the  bottom,  to 
give  a  good  drainage  to  the  plants ;  cover  these  with  some 
pieces  of  rotten  sod  from  the  compost,  and  put  in  a  little  of 
the  compost,  sufficient  to  receive  the  plants,  which  should  be 
carefully  taken  from  the  ground  with  some  earth  attached  to 
the  roots,  if  possible.  They  may  be  potted  in  the  same 
manner  as  directed  under  the  head  of  "General  Potting,"  in 
Part  III.,  Chap.  VII,  When  potted  give  them  a  good  water- 


for  two  or  three  weeks.     When 
id  they  begin  to  be  wefl  established  by 
rnmpostj  dean  away  all 
an  airy  site,  where  they 

mm,  to  grow  the  plants  into  a  healthy  state  before  they 
taken  into  me  bouse.     By  following  mis  method,  the 

winter,  and  in  the  spnng  may  agam  be  turned  into  the  borders 
i;  and  if  a  mrrrxm  of  plants  is  yeariy  grown  for 

£>-"•-   r:?e?    :r,iy   2_"iys 


The 

in  the  front  of  the  house,  where  ihcy  nay  weave  the  son 
and  fight,  and  give  mem  as  modi  air  as  can  be  consistently 


y  pyipose.     For  a  collection  of 


I  refer  the  reader  to  their  proper  heads  under  me  culture  of 
the  rose,  in  Part  IL,  Chap.  JJIL 


Amr.  3.— On  the  G*aw  oft 
Thealmo 

tk»  with  its  hardiness  and  easy  culture,  renders  it  one  of  the 
iesuafele  classes  of  pbnte  for  the 
garden.     Most  of  the  present  pretty 
be  found  an 

of  which  the  old  Mdutdrit  and  TWcdumu  were 
•rents.    These,  with  the  old  JTiite  TVacrwfe*, 
have  been  crossed,  and  from  them  most  of  me  present  bril- 


freely,  whan  planted  oat  in 


168          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

the  garden,  by  rooting  at  almost  every  joint,  in  moist  weather, 
in  September  and  October,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  garden 
Strawberry.  There  are,  however,  some  of  the  upright-grow- 
ing kinds,  which  do  not  increase  so  readily  this  way,  but  they 
all  root  freely,  when  the  young  shoots  are  layered  into  pots, 
or  in  the  ground,  when  they  are  growing.  The  Verbena 
may  also  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  almost  at  any  time,  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  Geranium,  in  pots  filled  with  a  com- 
post of  one-third  sand,  and  the  remainder  loam  and  well  rotted 
manure,  or  leaf  mould.  It  is  also  increased,  to  obtain  new 
varieties,  by  seed,  which  is  ripe  in  October,  and  should  be 
collected  and  saved  until  the  spring,  and  sown  in  pots  filled 
with  the  same  compost  as  directed  for  cuttings. 

The  Verbena  may  be  considered,  strictly  speaking,  a  green- 
house plant,  although  it  is  in  the  flower  garden  where  its 
chief  beauty  is  so  desirable,  particularly  in  the  summer  and 
fall  of  a  dry  season,  when  other  flowers  are  almost  perished, 
then  this  plant  is  almost  the  only  gem  of  flora.  In  the 
flower-garden,  it  has  a  pleasing  appearance  in  almost  any 
location,  and  it  is  admirably  adapted  to  be  planted  on  the 
rockery,  if  there  is  one,  or  on  any  dry  bank  or  rising  ground, 
as  it  thrives  well  in  any  dry  location,  and  is  also  often  planted 
in  masses  in  the  flower  borders,  or  in  neat  cut  figures  on 
grass  plats,  where  the  mingling  of  the  different  varieties  forms 
a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  green  sod.  When  ornamental 
vases  are  introduced  in  grass  plats,  they  may  be  filled  with 
compost,  and  the  Verbena  planted  there ;  and  if  properly 
managed,  the  vines  will  hang  down  in  brilliant  tresses  of 
flowers  of  the  most  ornamental  character.  In  many  cases, 
they  are  also  trained  to  small  trellises,  in  the  green-house  or 
flower  garden,  of  an  ornamental  character,  in  the  form  of  a 
fan,  a  balloon,  pyramid,  or  almost  any  form  the  taste  may  be 
inclined  to  select. 

For  the  green-house,  the  plants  should  be  selected  in  Octo- 
ber, and  planted  into  small  pots,  and  taken  into  the  house  so 
soon  as  the  first  frosts  appear.  They  should  be  placed  on 


GERANIUM,    CHINA    ROSE,    AND    VERBENA. 


169 


shelves  near  the  glass,  in  order  to  receive  the  sun,  and  be  in 
a  dry  location,  so  congenial  to  the  flowers  ;  when  the  plants 
are  over-watered,  and  kept  too  far  from  the  glass,  they  draw 
into  weak,  slender  growth,  and  generally  damp  off  on  the 
surface  of  the  earth  in  the  pot.  In  rooms,  the  same  culture  and 
management  will  be  requisite.  The  plants,  in  this  location, 
during  the  winter,  should  be  moderately  watered,  care  being 
taken  not  to  saturate  the  earth  with  too  much  water,  which  is 
injurious  to  them. 

List  of  Verbenas. 


Name.  Color.  Name, 

alba  floribunda  white,  with  dark  eye.  jPulchella 
bicolor  "      '-•  & 


Color. 

violet  purple, 
fine  scarlet,  with  crim-|  Queen  pure  white. 

[son  centre.  Rose  brilliant   light  crimson,  superb, 
fine  blue,  pale  centre.  Royal  purple   deep,  velvety  purple. 


Blue  Queen 

Chalmerii  white,  pink  centre. 

candidissima  large  white. 

elegans  fine  rose,  red  centre.    Stewartia 

Emperor  pink  and  white.  8  trial  a 

Feastii  large  white,  changing!  superba 

[to  purple. 

Hendersonii  crimson  purple.  Teucroides 

Hogg's  red  red,  with  crim.  centre.' Tweedianii 

Julia  fine  rose.  j  Vesta 

Magnet  rose,  with  bright  crim.!  VV  ilsonii 

Mestonii  bright  scarlet 

Melindris  bright  scarlet. 

Pearl  shaded  blush. 


Sayersii  white,     changing    to 

[blush,  free  bloomer. 

velvet  maroon. 

pink  and  white. 

bright  scarlet,  yellow 
[eye. 

old  white,  fragrant. 

fine  crimson. 

new,  scarlet 

very  dark  purple. 
Wilson's  scarlet  white  eye. 
Yarnellii          very  dark  crim.  purple 


15 


CHAPTER    V. 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Erica ,  Azalea,  and  Rhododendron. 

ART.  1.— The  Erica. 

THE  Erica  is  one  of  the  prettiest  families  of  plants  culti- 
vated in  the  green-house;  and  its  culture  is  highly  deserving 
of  more  general  attention  than  has  hitherto  been  bestowed 
upon  it.  However,  there  are  many  pretty  varieties  finding 
their  way  into  the  various  collections,  which  I  hope  will  still 
receive  additions.  The  plants  are  neat  and  pretty  in  habit, 
and,  when  in  flower,  form  a  lively  contrast  with  other  plants 
of  the  green-house :  they  are,  indeed,  a  class  of  plants  that 
are  grateful  to  the  common  observer,  claim  the  strict  attention 
of  the.  amateur,  and  are  worthy  the  most  minute  examination 
of  the  curious  and  refined.  In  a  good  collection,  they  possess 
many  shades  of  color,  as  white,  green,  red,  pink,  <fec. ;  and 
in  some  instances  they  are  variegated  or  checkered  in  a  very 
pretty  manner.  The  manner  in  which  they  flower  is  also  va- 
rious ;  as,  in  clusters,  spikes,  and  in  numerical  order,  which 
are  designated  as  biflora,  triflora,  and  so  on ;  and  in  different 
habits,  as  pendulous,  erect,  &c.  The  formation  of  the  flow- 
ers also  varies,  and  has  a  definitive  character,  as  that  of 
tubiftora,  curvi/Zora,  and  the  like  regular  forms.  But  their 
intrinsic  value  is  only  to  be  discovered  by  examining  the 
flower  minutely ;  when  the  neat  form  and  prettily  contrasted 
colors  always  reward  those  who  bestow  such  pains  with  a 
rich  treat  of  one  of  nature's  most  finished  copies. 

In  the  bouquet,  the  Erica  is  not  surpassed  by  any  flower 
of  its  season;  and  no  flower  keeps  longer  as  a  cut  flower  in 
water. 

To  my  fair  patrons,  I  must  recommend  the  more  general 
culture  of  this  pretty  family  of  plants,  and  hope  the  follow- 
ing little  treatise  will  at  least  assist  those  who  are  desirous  to 

170 


ERICA,  AZALEA,  AND  RHODODENDRON.        171 

cultivate  them  in  their  management,  which,  when  better 
understood,  I  am  convinced  will  greatly  add  to  the  interest 
already  manifested  in  the  Erica. 

AIIT.  2. — Culture  and  Propagation. 

The  culture  of  the  Erica  is,  by  many  persons,  considered 
very  difficult,  although,  when  practically  understood,  it  may 
be  said  to  be  very  simple.  Soil,  situation,  and  temperature, 
must  be  in  accordance  with  the  nature  of  the  Erica,  or  it  will 
never  flourish  and  flower  well.  All  kinds  of  the  Erica  re- 
quire a  black  peat,  or  bog  earth,  to  flourish  in  perfection ;  for 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  being  fine  and  thready,  cannot  per- 
forate a  heavy  loam  or  close  soil;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  a 
very  spongy  soil  would  be  quite  as  uncongenial  to  its  nature. 
In  fact,  two  kinds  of  soil  are  requisite  to  grow  the  different 
varieties  to  perfection :  the  small,  dwarf  kinds  require  a  dry 
peat,  obtained  from  high,  dry  ground ;  and  the  tall,  luxuriant 
kinds,  a  soil  obtained  from  a  low,  moist  ground.  This  is 
readily  accounted  for,  as  the  dwarf  varieties  are  found  natu- 
rally growing  on  high  ground,  and  the  taller  varieties  on  low 
grounds ;  but  the  nature  of  the  soil  is  very  similar.  The 
situation  of  the  Erica  should  always  be  that  of  a  cool,  shaded 
place.  If  the  plants  are  exposed  to  the  sun  in  summer,  they 
will  suffer  at  the  root;  and,  if  placed  where  they  receive  too 
much  fire-heat  in  the  winter,  the  leaves  will  be  injured.  It 
should  be  moderately  watered,  and  should  never  be  very  dry 
at  the  root,  or  very  moist:  if  the  roots  are  allowed  to  become 
entirely  dry,  the  plant  will  sicken  accordingly ;  if  too  moist, 
they  will  make  a  slender,  feeble  growth  at  the  leaf,  and  decay. 

The  Erica  is  propagated  from  seed,  which  I  recommend  to 
be  sown  in  the  month  of  December,  or  so  soon  as  it  is  ripe, 
in  a  pot  of  black  peat  earth,  and  placed  in  the  green-house. 
Care  must  be  taken  that  the  seed  is  not  covered  too  deep  ;— 
if  a  quantity  of  white  sand  can  be  procured  and  placed  on  the 
earth,  the  better.  When  the  seed  is  sown,  the  top  of  the  pot 


172 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


may  be  covered  with  glass,  until  the  plants  make  their  ap- 
pearance, when  it  may  be  removed  from  them. 

In  the  spring  when  the  plants  are  grown  an  inch  or  two  in 
height,  they  are  to  be  potted  off,  in  small  pots,  for  flowering, 
which  will  be,  in  the  dwarf  varieties,  in  the  following  spring  ; 
the  larger  kinds  will  not  flower  until  the  second  year. 

The  propagation  by  cuttings  is  performed  by  filling  pots 
of  soil,  as  before  directed,  and  covering  the  top  with  white 
sand.  The  cuttings  may  be  taken  from  the  plant  at  a  time 
when  the  young  wood  is  grown  an  inch  or  two  long,  which 
will  generally  be  in  the  month  of  September.  They  are  to 
be  taken  off  at  a  joint,  the  lower  leaves  taken  off  with  a  sharp 
pair  of  scissors,  and  the  cuttings  neatly  pricked  into  the  sand, 
and  covered  with  a  bell-glass ;  the  bell-glass  must  be  regu- 
larly taken  off  every  day,  and  rubbed  dry  with  a  cloth,  in 
order  to  remove  any  moisture,  and  prevent  their  being  damped 
off.  When  they  are  well  rooted,  they  are  to  be  potted  off,  in 
small  pots,  as  recommended  for  seedlings. 

AHT.  3. — Descriptive  List  of  Ericas. 
Those  marked  thus  t  are  to  be  found  in  most  collections,  and  seed  freely. 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color. 

Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

ERICA. 

HEATH. 

•f-grandiflora 

great-flowered 

Yellow 

3  ft.    May,  Sept. 

•{•cruenta 

bloody-flowered 

Dark  red 

2 

May,  Sept. 

ignescens 

fiery 

Red 

1^ 

March,  June. 

-ftubiflora 

tube-flowered 

Pink 

2 

April,  July. 

Hibbertk 

Hibbert's 

O.  yellow 

2 

June,  Sept. 

fcolorans 
veridis 

coloring 
green-flowered 

W.red 
D.  green 

2 
2 

April,  June. 
May,  Sept. 

Massoni 

Masson's 

R.  green 

3 

July,  Oct. 

•{-bicolor 

two-colored 

G.  red 

2 

March,  Oct. 

fventricosa 

Porcelain 

Fleshed 

1 

April,  Sept. 

Aitonia 

Aiton's 

W.  purple 

2 

June,  Sept. 

fbaccans 

Arbutus-leaved 

Purple 

2 

April,  June. 

biflora 

two-flowered 

White 

1 

April,  June. 

fardens 

glowing 

Scarlet 

2 

April,  June. 

farborea 

tree 

White 

4 

Feb.,  June. 

rubens 

red-flowered 

Dark  red 

1 

June,  Sept. 

•j-gracilis 

slender 

White 

1 

Feb.,  June. 

ipersoluta 

garland 

Purple 

11 

Feb.,  May. 

[australis 

Spanish 

Purple 

I 

March,  July. 

ERICA,  AZALEA,  AND  RHODODENDRON. 


173 


Botanical  Name. 

English  Name. 

Color. 

Height. 

Time  of  flowering. 

fMediterranea 

Mediterranean 

Purple 

4ft. 

Feb.,  May. 

vagans 

Cornish 

Red 

1 

July,  Aug. 

formosa 

beautiful 

Red 

2 

June,  Sept. 

fpubescens 

pale-downy 

Purple 

H 

Feb.,  Dec. 

fconcinna 

blush 

Flesh  color 

2 

Sept,  Oct. 

coccinea 

scarlet-flowered 

D.  red    - 

ij 

Jan.,  Sept 

Leeana 

Lee's 

O.  yellow 

2 

Jan.,  August 

blanda 
jUliffordia 

charming 
Lady  Clifford's 

L.  purple 
White 

1 

1 

April,  Sept. 
April,  May. 

elegans 

elegant 

Green 

1 

March,  Nov. 

triflora 

three-flowered 

White 

1 

May,  June. 

rubella 

thrift-flowered 

Pink 

2 

June. 

floribunda 

many-flowered 

Purple 

1 

May,  June. 

imbricata 

imbricated 

Pink 

1 

May,  Aug. 

ART.  2 — On  the  Culture  of  the  Azalea. 

The  Azalea,  like  the  Erica,  is  a  favorite  plant  in  the  green- 
house, and  requires  nearly  the  same  treatment.  It  seeds 
freely,  and  is  readily  cultivated  from  the  seed ;  and  many 
very  splendid  new  varieties  have  of  late  years  been  raised  in 
this  manner,  by  hybridizing  one  variety  with  another.  It  is 
certainly  one  of  the  best  families  of  flowers  we  are  at  present 
acquainted  with ;  for,  besides  all  the  splendid  Chinese  varie- 
ties cultivated  in  the  green-house,  there  are  several  beautiful 
hardy  kinds,  natives  of  Turkey,  and  over  seventy  varieties 
indigenous  to  North  America,  that  inhabit  swamps  and  dry 
places,  which  are  found  growing  in  all  the  eastern  States,  and 
are  known  by  the  name  of  the  American  Honeysuckle. 

The  Azalea  thrives  well  in  a  dry,  sandy,  peat  earth,  and, 
when  this  is  not  to  be  found,  a  compost  made  of  about  two- 
thirds  sandy  loam,  taken  from  a  dry  spot,  beside  of  a  wood,  witli 
a  portion  of  well  decomposed  leaf  mould,  and  a  little  charcoal 
dust,  will  answer  well  enough.  A  very  great  error  is  often 
made  by  those  unacquainted  with  the  culture  of  this  plant,  by 
collecting  black,  boggy  earth  from  low  places,  which  often 
contains  a  quantity  of  the  oxide  of  iron,  and  other  mineral 
qualities,  highly  detrimental  to  this  class  of  plants ;  besides, 
such  earth  is  often  sour,  owing  to  its  being  saturated  with 
water,  than  which  nothing  can  be  more  detrimental  to  the 
P2 


174         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

growth  of  the  Azalea,  which  delights  to  grow  in  a  sweet,  dry 
soil.  When  grown  in  the  first  named  manner,  the  plants 
have  a  yellow,  sickly  appearance,  and  the  leaves  drop  off  the 
plants,  a  sure  indication  of  their  being  in  a  bad  state  of  health. 

Saving  the  seed. — The  seed  may  be  sown  in  pots  or  pans 
of  peat  earth,  when  ripe,  in  the  fall,  and  kept  in  the  green- 
house during  winter.  The  plants  will  generally  make  their 
appearance  in  the  spring ;  in  the  following  season,  they  may 
be  potted  off  in  small  pots,  and  treated  in  every  way  the  same 
as  the  flowering  plants.  It  may  also  be  propagated  by  layer- 
ing down  the  young  shoots  in  the  spring,  either  in  the  pots  or 
in  a  frame  purposely  adapted  for  the  business;  they  will 
mostly  be  rooted  in  the  fall,  and  may  be  taken  from  the  mo- 
ther plant  and  potted  off  in  the  proper  compost,  as  before 
directed.  To  this  may  be  added,  the  striking  of  cuttings, 
which  may  be  taken  off  about  the  latter  end  of  July,  or  the 
beginning  of  August;  as  soon  as  the  young  wood  is  ripe  is 
the  proper  time.  They  will  be  well  rooted  in  the  fall,  and 
may  be  potted  off  in  the  following  spring. 

The  best  time  for  repotting  the  flowering  plants  of  the 
Azalea  is  in  the  spring,  when  the  plants  have  done  flowering ; 
care  should  be  taken  to  give  plenty  of  drainage,  so  that  the 
plants  are  not  saturated  by  watering,  which  is  injurious  to 
them.  They  should  be  well  potted,  and  the  surface  of  the 
ball  be  a  little  below  the  top  of  the  pot,  so  that  it  may  be  a 
little  dishing,  and  receive  the  benefit  of  watering.  When  the 
plants  are  in  a  growing  state,  they  should  be  abundantly  wa- 
tered, and  kept  in  a  free  growing  state  ;  when  the  weather  is 
sufficiently  warm,  they  should  be  either  plunged  in  the 
ground,  in  their  pots,  or  placed  in  a  frame,  in  a  shady  loca- 
tion, to  remain  during  the  summer;  and  in  the  fall,  they  may 
be  again  taken  into  the  green-house  with  the  other  green- 
house plants. 


ERICA,  AZALEA,  AND  RHODODENDRON. 

Descriptive  List  of  Azaleas. 

Name.  Description.  Name.  Descriptior 

AZALEA  INDICA.  CHIXESE  RED-FLOWERING  AZALEA. 


175 


Copeii 

Danielsana 

elegans 

Gillinghamia 

hybrida 

ignescens 

lateritia 


white, 
large  rose, 
clear  pale  red. 
light  purple, 
large  lilac. 


Powellii 


Salmo  tincta 
Cambelii 
fimbriata  alba 
Danielsiana  hy- 
brida pale  red. 
"     concessa  fine. 


Phoenicea 
superba 
rubra  pleno 

lilac,profusely  spot'd  speciosa 

very  br.  red,  profuse,  j 

salmon    color,  pro- speciosissima 
[fuse  flowering. 

salmon  color,  large,  splendens 

Campbell' 


fringed  white. 


concolor 
neriiflora 
macrantha 

magniflora 
nova  blanc 


beautiful, 
oleander-flowered, 
large  white  often  se-i 


large    rosy    purple, 
[very  profuse, 
bluish  purple, 
pale  pur.,  dark  spots, 
d'bl.  red,  large  flower 
very  large  rosy  pink, 
[profuse. 

very  large  cherry  red, 
[profuse, 
large  salmon. 

Smithii  coccinea  Smith's  scarlet 
variegata  rose  and  red  margin- 

fed,  or  var.  with 
[white,  superb. 
CremerijFeasl's  superb. 
Mount  blanc, 

Feast's  beautiful,  new,white 


Phffinicia  alba 


[mi-double.  Gladstenesii 
large  purple.  coccinea  nova 

white,  with  greenish  ;rosea 
[spots.) 


very  large,  white, 
new  white, 
new  scarlet, 
very  large,  rosy,  pur- 
[ple,  fine. 


ART.  3. — On  the  Culture  of  the  Rhododendron. 

The  Rhododendron  is  very  nearly  allied  to  the  Azalea,  and 
requires  nearly  the  same  treatment,  with  the  difference  that 
it  does  not  strike  so  readily  by  cuttings,  and  is  therefore  gen- 
erally increased  by  layers,  and  sometimes  the  finer  varieties 
are  grafted  on  the  common  kinds  to  a  good  purpose.  The 
growing  of  seedlings,  potting,  and  repotting,  is  the  same  as 
the  Azalea,  with  the  exception  that  the  Rhododendron  is  a 
larger  growing  plant,  and  consequently  requires  larger  pots 
to  grow  it  to  perfection. 

The  plants  are  quite  hardy  in  the  green-house,  and  require 
to  be  placed  in  a  good,  dry,  airy  place  to  thrive  well.  In  the 
summer  they  may  be  either  plunged  in  the  ground,  in  the 
pots,  or  placed  in  a  shady  situation,  as  they  do  not  bear  the 
extreme  heat  of  the  summers  in  this  country,  which  retards 
their  growth  and  prevents  their  setting  off  buds  freely  in  the 
proper  season. 


176 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Descriptive  List  of  Rhododendrons. 


Name.  Color. 

RHODODENDRON. 


Name. 


Color. 


arborea 

crimson  Chinese. 

Russellianum       rosy  crimson. 

album 

white  Chinese. 

Smithii                 dark  red. 

altaclarense 

deep  crimson. 

venustum              bright  rosy  red. 

Cunninghamii 

rosy  purple. 

multiflorum          profuse  flowered. 

fimbriatum 

fringed  white 

Sir  J.  Brought  on  dark  red. 

gloriosa 

rich  crimson. 

spectable               fine  rose. 

hybridum 

rosy  purple. 

Nobleanum          fine  rosy  crimson, 

purpureum 
picbim 

violet  purple,  [son. 
blush  spotted  crim- 

[changing  to  white, 
cinnamonum        white,  spotted  with 

[red. 

CHAPTER    VI. 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Cactus  and  Succulent  Plants. 

ART.  1. — Culture  of  the  Cactus. 

MOST  of  the  different  varieties  of  the  Cactus  are  natives 
either  of  the  West  Indies  or  South  America,  where  the  primi- 
tive kinds  are  found  growing  on,  and  in  the  chasms  of  rocks, 
and  on  old  dead  wood,  where  they  often  subsist  for  months 
without  water.  Indeed,  there  are  few  tribes  of  plants  that 
will  live  and  endure  so  long  a  period  of  drought  as  the  Cac- 
tus and  its  natural  families  of  the  JHoe,  and  those  plants 
which  are  denominated  succulents, — as  nature  seems  to  have 
designed  them  to  endure  a  recess  of  moisture,  by  their  organi- 
zation ;  being  of  a  fat,  fleshy  texture,  covered  with  a  thick, 
tough,  leather-like  coat  or  bark,  which  does  not  respire,  or  at 
least  admit  of  respiration  so  freely  as  deciduous  plants  ;  and 
hence,  the  plants  being  full  of  sap,  or  perhaps  more  properly 
a  superfluous  fluid,  intended  as  a  reservoir  to  sustain  them 
when  exigencies  (as  a  long  drought)  require  such  provision ; 
without  which  they  could  not  subsist. 

The  mode  of  cultivation  is  to  obtain  new  varieties  by 
seed  and  cross  impregnation,  by  mixing  the  pollen  of  one 
variety  with  another,  by  which  the  beautiful  varieties  of 
Jenkinsonii,  JJckermanii,  Longworthiana,  and  many  others 


CULTURE  OF  THE  CACTUS.  177 

(bearing  the  personal  names  of  the  lovers  of  the  tribe)  have 
been  produced.  The  general  mode  of  propagation  adopted 
is,  by  cuttings  of  the  leaf  or  stem  of  the  plant,  which  in  the 
spedosa,  Jenkinsonii,  and  those  kinds  having  joints,  are  cut 
at  the  joint;  but  those  kinds  which  have  long  spaces  between 
the  joints,  as  the  speciosissima,  cylindricus,  and  the  like  tall 
growing  kinds,  may  be  cut  into  short  pieces  at  the  eye  or 
bud.  The  preparing  the  cuttings  of  the  Cactus  is  something 
different  from  almost  any  other  kinds  of  plants. 

The  cuttings  of  the  Cactus  require  to  be  laid  on  a  dry 
shelf,  previous  to  being  inserted,  so  that  the  wound  may  be 
contracted  and  dried  up.  This  treatment  is  necessary  to  all 
kinds  of  succulent  plants,  to  avoid  their  rotting  off  at  the 
wound.  The  cuttings  being  thus  prepared,  and  the  wound 
thoroughly  dried  up,  (which  will  be  in  a  week  or  ten  days 
after  their  preparation,)  they  may  be  put  into  pots  or  pans 
of  sand,  in  the  usual  manner  of  putting  in  cuttings. 

The  cuttings  being  potted,  they  may  be  placed  over  the 
flue,  or  in  any  dry,  warm  part  of  the  house,  and  slightly 
syringed  of  a  fine  sunny  morning,  or  of  an  evening  when  the 
fire-heat  is  sufficient  to  dry  the  leaf  in  a  short  time ;  water 
lying  long  on  the  leaves  in  this  process,  in  many  cases  rots 
the  entire  cutting ;  and  most  generally,  at  all  events,  it  decays 
close  to  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  the  pot.  When  the  cut- 
tings begin  to  root  they  may  be  moderately  watered,  and 
when  sufficiently  rooted,  potted  off  in  the  following  manner, 
for  flowering  plants. 

The  best  compost  for  potting  the  cuttings  or  young  plants 
of  Cactus  that  I  am  acquainted  wilh,  is  about  two  parts  of 
decomposed  leaf  mould,  three  or  four  years  old,  with  the 
remainder  mellow  loam  and  a  good  portion  of  sand  and  some 
fine  bone  dust  and  charcoal  beaten  fine.  The  method  of 
potting  is  to  prepare  a  quantity  of  well-broken  potsherd?, 
beaten  very  fine,  which  are  to  be  put  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pot,  about  an  inch  thick ;  the  soil  is  then  to  be  used  by  pla- 
cing it  lightly  in  the  pots  until  they  are  about  three-fourths 


178          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

full;  the  plants  are  then  to  be  taken  gently  from  the  pots 
with  a  sharp  pointed  stick,  then  to  be  placed  on  the  sur- 
face, the  roots  spread  in  a  regular  manner,  and  earth  closed 
over  them  sufficient  to  cover  them  to  a  proper  depth.  Af- 
ter potting  off,  two  or  three  shiftings  are  required  in  this 
tribe  of  plants,  as  in  most  others,  when  the  pots  are  full  of 
roots. 

Mode  of  Culture. — The  culture  of  the  Cactus  has  been 
very  much  improved  within  a  few  years;  indeed,  the  system 
has  been  entirely  reversed  from  the  former  method  of  grow- 
ing it  in  a  dry,  harsh,  sandy  soil  or  compost,  to  that  of  a 
light,  rich  soil,  that  shall  be  porous  enough,  with  drainage  to 
let  off  the  superfluous  water  before  it  saturates  and  rots  the 
roots,  or  the  stem  just  above  the  surface  of  the  soil ; — hence, 
by  the  improved  mode,  this  tribe  of  plants  is  grown  and 
flowered  in  as  good  a  manner  and  as  large  plants  in  one  year 
as  was  formerly  done  in  three  or  four.  The  present  mode, 
then,  consists  in  keeping  the  plants  in  a  healthy  growing  state 
from  the  time  they  are  first  rooted  as  a  cutting,  until  they  are 
large  enough  for  flowering  plants ;  when  a  different  process 
is  taken,  to  check  the  flow  of  sap  and  growth  of  the  plant, 
in  order  to  set  the  buds  thickly  on  the  leaves. 

The  watering  may  be  done  with  the  Cactus  as  with  other 
plants,  when  in  a  growing  state,  namely : — whenever  the 
earth  is  dry  in  the  pots,  it  may  be  moderately  refreshed  with 
water,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  do  so  in  such  a  degree  that 
the  earth  shall  not  be  saturated  so  as  to  be  always  moist, 
and  thus  rot  off  the  plant,  as  before  hinted.  In  every  other 
department  of  culture,  the  Cactus  requires  good  treatment 
until  it  is  grown  to  a  sufficient  size  for  flowering,  when  an 
entirely  different  treatment  may  be  given  it.  In  the  fall  the 
plants  intended  for  flowering  may  be  placed  on  dry  shelves 
in  the  green-house,  where  they  are  to  remain,  with  a  small 
portion  of  water,  in  order  to  set  the  flower  buds  in  a  firm 
manner.  The  plants  are  to  remain  in  this  state  until  New 
Year's,  when  they  are  again  to  be  taken  into  a  warmer  place, 


CULTURE  OF  THE  CACTUS.  179 

and  treated  in  every  manner  as  before  directed  for  growing 
plants. 

That  a  tribe  of  plants  possessing  the  various  traits  of  foli- 
age, flowers,  &c.,  that  are  natural  to  the  Cactus,  will  at  some 
future  period  engage  much  of  the  attention  of  the  amateur 
and  lover  of  flowers,  cannot  be  doubted ;  for  although  in 
regard  to  appearance  of  foliage  they  cannot  be  said  to  vie 
with  the  Camellia,  yet  there  is  a  beautiful  natural  order  in 
their  nerves,  and  the  spines  or  armature  with  which  nature 
has  endowed  this  family  of  plants,  to  guard  against  the  in- 
trusion of  animals  and  other  invaders,  that  most  generally, 
when  once  made  acquainted  with  their  prickly  coats,  induce 
them  to  be  careful  how  they  again  come  in  contact  with  so 
formidable  a  tribe  of  the  vegetable  kingdom. 

Grafting  the  Cactus. — The  engrafting  of  the  weaker 
kinds  of  the  Cactus  on  the  grosser  growing  ones,  is  now 
becoming  general  among  amateurs,  as  that  of  engrafting  the 
truncatiis  on  the  t riangularis ;  the  Jenkinsonii,  May-fly, 
and  fine  varieties  of  the  Epiphyllum  on  the  Opuntia  micro- 
dasys  ;  and  the  fine  varieties  of  Cereus  on  the  Cereus  cylin- 
dricus.  The  Cactus  Periakia  is  also  an  excellent  stock  for 
many  kinds  of  Cactus,  as  the  Epiphyllums,  and  some  of  the 
lesser  varieties  of  the  Cereus.  In  grafting  Cactus,  one  prin- 
cipal object  should  be  borne  in  mind  to  do  the  thing  to  per- 
fection, namely,  that  the  graft  is  to  be  improved  in  growth 
and  magnitude  by  the  stock;  as  for  instance,  the  Cactus  trun- 
catus  being  engrafted  on  the  Iriangularis,  forms  a  most 
superb  plant  when  fully  grown.  I  saw  some  ten  or  a  dozen 
plants  of  this  kind  last  year,  at  the  green-house  of  Mr.  Long- 
worth,  under  the  management  of  Mr.  Sleath,  of  this  place, 
truly  beautiful ;  each  plant  formed  a  beautiful  head  trained  in 
a  circular  form,  with  pendulous  branches,  loaded  with  some 
two  hundred  flowers  each,  and  this  in  the  winter,  at  a  time 
when  few  other  plants  were  in  flower.  Such  specimens 
contrasted  with  the  Echinocactus  Eyriessii,  or  Turk's  cap, 
stuck  on  the  stem  of  the  Periskia  aculeata,  or  Barbadoes 


180         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

gooseberry,  with  the  appearance  of  a  drum-slick,  for  novelty's 
sake,  is  the  best  specimen  I  can  give  of  such  incongruities. 

The  operation  is  performed  in  various  ways,  as  by  taking 
off  the  top  of  the  cylindricus  and  tall  growing  kinds,  and 
making  an  incision  in  the  top  with  the  point  of  a  sharp  knife, 
downwards  in  the  centre.  The  graft  is  then  prepared  by 
cutting  it  off  at  a  joint,  and  paring  off  each  side  of  the  bark  in 
the  form  of  a  wedge.  The.  graft  is  then  inserted  in  the  in- 
cision and  closed  up  with  wax,  tallow,  or  other  pliable  sub- 
stance, to  keep  out  the  wet  and  air  from  the  part  where  the 
scion  and  stalk  are  united.  The  Opuntia  are  grafted  by 
cutting  the  top  of  the  stock  downwards  in  a  transverse 
section;  then  cutting  the  graft  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and 
inserting  in  the  same  manner  as  wedge  grafting  of  fruit  trees. 
These  grafts  are  generally  confined  in  their  places  by  running 
through  the  stock  and  graft  with  the  prickle  of  the  stock,  or 
a  sharp  pin  made  of  wood,  &c. 

Culture  of  the  Cactus  in  Rooms. — The  Cactus  does  ad- 
mirably well  in  the  parlor  or  warm  dry  rooms,  dry  heat 
agreeing  better  with  it  than  almost  any  other  tribe  of  plants ; 
but  care  must  be  taken  that  they  are  not  allowed  to  be  frozen, 
which  is  injurious  to  the  tender  kinds. 

The  management  is  simply  this.  In  the  winter  months, 
keep  the  earth  moderately  dry,  and  at  no  time  over-water 
them,  as  this  is  the  season  for  them  to  lie  dormant  and  form 
their  flower-buds.  When  the  spring  advances,  about  the 
first  weeks  in  March  more  water  may  be  applied,  and  the 
roots  kept  moderately  moist,  but  not  too  wet.  The  situation 
chosen  should  be  where  they  may  receive  a  full  share  of  the 
sun,  and  if  possible  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  room.  The 
guide  given  for  the  green-house,  will  answer,  in  every  par- 
ticular, for  the  parlor. 

In  selecting  a  List  of  Cactus,  I  have  chosen  those  which  are 
free  flowering  varieties,  and  will  answer  well  for  rooms. 
The  height  and  time  of  flowering  has  been  omitted,  as  most 
of  the  Cactae  are  dwarf  growing  kinds,  except  those  of  the 


CULTURE  OF  THE  CACTUS. 


181 


hexanglaris,  and  the  like  tall  varieties,  which  are  kept  in 
some  collections  merely  as  varieties.  The  object  of  this  list 
is  to  give  the  best  flowering  varieties ;  it  has  therefore  been 
selected  accordingly. 


Botanical  Name.  English  Name 

CACTUS  CEREUS. 


Color. 


cylindricus 

cylinder  like 

Cagelliformis 

creeping  cereus 

pink. 

triangularis 

triangular 

white,  fine  for  stocks. 

grandiflora 

night-blooming 

creamy  white. 

Scottii 

Scott's 

scarlet  and  purple. 

Scottii  violacea 

new 

violet. 

speciosissimus 

most  showy 

crimson  purple. 

Mallisonia 

scarlet 

coccineus 

triangled 

scarlet 

Smithianus 

Smith's 

superb  flower. 

CACTUS  EPIPHYLLUM. 

truncatum 

winter-blooming 

pink. 

Ackermanii 

crimson 

crimson. 

Russellianum 

Russell's 

fine  purple. 

May-fly 

very  bright  shaded. 

Spangii 

profuse  flowering 

red. 

speciosum  major 

superb 

large  pink. 

coccineus 

triangular 

scarlet 

Smithianus 

superb  flower 

Jenkinsonii 

Jenkinson's 

crimson. 

Longworthiana 

Longworth's 

fine  scarlet 

violaceum 

white,  edged  with  purple. 

formosissima 

beautiful 

rosy  purple. 

roseum 

bright  rose 

Grahamii 

rosy  violet 

Chalmerii 

Chalmer's 

bright  scarlet 

CACTUS  OPUNTIA,  INDIAN  FIG. 

microdasys  brown  spined 

dicipins  various 

fragilis  brittle 

lactae  spina  white  spined 

CACTUS  PERISKIA. 
longispina  long  spined. 

aculeata  Barbadoes  gooseberry. 

CACTUS  MAMMILEARIA. 


stellata 

rubra 

decora 

simplex 

discolor 

pyramid  alia 


starry. 

red  spined. 

neat  nipple. 

close. 

two  colored. 

pyramidal. 


Q 


182 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN   COMPANION. 


Botanical  Name.          English  Name. 
CACTUS  ECHINOCACTUS. 

Eyriessii  Turk's  cap. 

rubra  spina  red  spined. 

amabilis  neat  headed. 

ART.  2. — Culture  of  the  Aloe  and  various  Succulents. 

The  Aloe  requires  the  same  treatment  as  the  Cactus,  with 
the  difference  that  they  do  not  require  so  much  water,  and 
their  treatment  is  regular,  that  is  to  say,  they  do  not  require 
at  one  time  to  be  kept  very  dry,  and  at  another  to  be  more 
abundantly  watered  in  order  to  make  them  flower ;  indeed 
the  flowers  are  not  the  most  beautiful,  but  it  is  the  foliage 
these  plants  are  cultivated  for,  as  the  partridge  breasted,  lizard 
tail,  tongue,  &c.,  which  are  represented  in  their  leaves. 
These  plants  are  propagated  by  taking  off  the  young  side 
shoots  as  they  appear  on  the  mother  plant,  and  potting  them 
in  the  same  manner  as  their  parent.  To  this  class  may  be 
added  the  Mesembryanthemums,  Stapelias,  and  many  other 
succulents,  which  are  all  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  require 
a  dry  place  in  the  green-house,  and  but  moderate  watering. 

I  herewith  append  a  List  of  some  of  the  most  generally 
known  varieties. 


Name. 

Description. 

AGAVE. 

Americana 

great  American  aloe. 

variegata 

stripe  leaved  aloe. 

ALOE. 

Socotrina 

Socotrine 

ferox 

hedgehog 

arborescens 

tree. 

obscura 

great  soap. 

variegata 

partridge  breast. 

obliqua 

tongue 

plicatile 

fan 

verrucosa 

pearl. 

margaritifera 

great  pearl. 

CRASSULA. 

coccinea 

scarlet  flowered. 

versicolor 

various  colored. 

imbricate 

whip  cord. 

Name.  Description. 

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. 

grandiflorum       great  flowered. 

californium 

barbatum 

tigrinum 

minima. 

tupinum. 

lacerum 

ROCHEA. 

falcata 

perfoliata 

STAPELIA. 

ambigua  v.  fulva  brown  flowered. 

asterius  star-fish  flowered. 

grandiflora          large  flowered. 

variegate  variegated. 


yellow, 
scarlet, 
toothed. 


toothed. 

seckel  leaved, 
perfoliate  leaved. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

On  Potting  and  Repotting  Plants. 

ART.  1. — Potting  Green-house  Plants. 

[The  following  directions  for  potting  green-house  plants 
are  equally  applicable  to  hardy  plants,  &c.] 

POTTING  green-house  plants  is  mostly  done  a  short  time 
previous  to  taking  the  plants  into  the  house,  which  is  gene- 
rally the  beginning  or  middle  of  September.  In  performing 
this  business,  the  first  thing  to  be  attended  to  is  the  procuring  of 
clean  pots,  compost,  &c.,  to  be  used.  The  compost  that  will 
answer  most  plants,  consists  of  about  two-thirds  of  good  mel- 
low loam,  taken  from  the  top  sod  of  a  pasture,  or  other  place 
where  sheep,  oxen,  or  other  animals  have  lain  and  enriched 
it :  this  should  be  taken  off  about  three  inches  deep,  and  laid 
in  a  heap  some  time,  in  order  that  it  may  rot  and  incorporate 
together.  The  loam  may  be  mixed  with  one-third  of  well 
rotted  leaf  mould,  or  other  rich  old  manure,  that  will  mix  and 
incorporate  with  the  loam; — if  the  loam  is  not  of  a  sandy 
quality,  a  little  sand  may  be  applied,  in  order  to  give  a  little 
drainage  to  the  plants  to  be  potted  in  it.  For  some  families 
of  plants,  as  the  Erica,  Diosma,  &c.,  a  black  peaty,  or  bog 
earth,  is  the  most  proper,  and  must  be  obtained  from  the 
sides  of  woods,  natural  bogs,  &c. 

Having  the  soil  prepared,  the  potting  may  be  commenced 
by  carefully  turning  the  plants  out  of  the  pots,  and  paring  off 
with  a  sharp  knife  part  of  the  roots  matted  around  the  ball. 
This  done,  select  a  pot  of  a  size  to  allow  some  fresh  compost 
to  be  put  into  the  bottom  and  side;  then  pot  the  plant  thus: — 
lay  a  few  pieces  of  pots,  or  other  crockery,  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pot,  to  act  as  a  drainage ;  place  two  or  three  inches  of  the 
compost  over  the  crockery,  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  and  then 
place  the  plant  with  the  ball  in  the  centre  of  it,  filling  the  sides 
183 


184  THE    FLOWER   GARDEN    COMPANION. 

between  the  pot  and  ball  with  compost,  when  the  pot  may 
have  a  gentle  shake  with  the  hands,  to  settle  the  earth  about 
the  ball  and  the  roots  of  the  plants.  The  plants  may  then 
have  a  gentle  watering,  and  be  placed  where  they  are  to  re- 
main until  they  are  taken  into  the  green-house. 

ART.  2. — Potting  of  Plants  taken  from  the  Ground. 
The  beginning  of  September  is  the  best  time  to  take  from 
the  ground  and  pot  such  plants  as  are  intended  to  be  taken 
into  the  green-house  or  rooms.  In  performing  this  business, 
the  plants  must  be  taken  as  carefully  as  possible  from  the 
ground,  with  a  portion  of  earth  about  their  roots,  and  potted 
in  the  same  manner  as  directed  above ;  but  their  treatment 
requires  to  be  something  different,  by  placing  them  in  a  shady 
situation  after  being  potted,  in  order  that  they  may  root  more 
freely  into  the  new  soil  that  they  are  potted  in.  When  the 
plants  begin  to  make  new  roots  into  the  fresh  soil,  they  are 
to  be  divested  of  any  dead  leaves  that  may  be  about  them,  and 
more  exposed  to  the  sun,  previous  to  their  being  removed  to 
the  green-house  or  rooms. 

AKT.  3. — Potting  of  young  Plants  from  Cuttings. 
All  kinds  of  young  plants,  as  Geraniums,  Roses,  and  the 
like,  propagated  from  cuttings,  should  be  potted  in  small  pots 
as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted.  Having  your  compost  and 
pots  (which  should  always  be  small  for  this  purpose)  pre- 
pared, commence  the  business  by  carefully  turning  out  the 
cuttings,  with  the  ball  of  earth  entire;  when  the  plants  may 
be  divided,  with  as  much  earth  as  possible  about  their  fibres, 
and  potted  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  above. 
The  plants  when  potted  off,  should  be  placed  in  a  frame, 
where  their  rooting  freely  into  the  soil  in  the  pots  may  be 
facilitated,  by  covering  them  when  the  sun  shines  strongly  on 
them.  If  a  frame  is  not  at  hand,  the  plants  may  be  placed  in 
a  shady  situation  until  they  are  well  rooted. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

On  the  Management  of  Cut  Flowers,  Plants  in  Rooms,  and 
Bulbs  in  Pots  and  Water  Glasses. 

ART.  I.— Cut  Flowers. 

IT  being  now  an  almost  universal  practice  to  have  cut 
flowers  in  rooms,  as  natural  ornaments,  some  hints  relative 
to  the  management  of  them  may  perhaps  be  of  service  to 
their  fair  patrons.  To  preserve  cut  flowers,  such  as  the 
Dahlia,  and  succulent  kinds,  in  a  fresh  manner,  and  to  keep 
them  from  wilting  and  fading  in  summer,  they  should  be  im- 
mediately immersed  in  clean  water  when  cut  from  the  plant; 
by  this  means,  the  pores  will  be  filled  with  water,  and 
exhaustion  prevented,  and,  consequently,  the  flowers  will 
remain  in  a  fresh  state. 

Packing  cut  flowers. — In  packing  cut  flowers  to  go  some 
distance  in  the  winter  season,  I  recommend  to  put  them  in  a 
wooden  box,  of  a  size  corresponding  to  the  quantity  to  be 
packed,  the  inside  of  the  box  to  be  lined  with  cotton  wool, 
and  the  flowers  to  be  laid  loosely  in  the  box,  beginning  at  the 
bottom  with  the  hardiest  kinds,  placing  them  in  such  a  man- 
ner, that  the  flowers  are  upwards,  and  that  the  leaves  inter- 
sect them ;  arranging  the  whole,  so  that  one  part  will  spring 
lightly  on  the  other,  in  case  of  a  sudden  jerk  in  travelling : 
in  this  manner,  proceed  with  the  whole  to  the  top,  which 
cover  with  a  lid  lined  with  cotton  wool  like  the  sides.  In 
this  mode  of  packing,  the  wool  serves  to  keep  out  the  cold, 
and  gives  way  to  the  flowers  that  press  it,  without  bruising  or 
injuring  them. 

For  the  preserving  of  flowers  in  rooms,  I  extract  the  fol- 
lowing from  Sweet's  Hot-house  Manual,  which  is  the  only 
article  on  this  subject  I  have  seen  in  print,  and  the  best  me- 
thod I  can  recommend.  He  says : 

16     185  Q2 


186          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

"Many  persons  have  expressed  a  wish  to  be  acquainted 
with  the  best  method  of  preserving  cut  flowers  for  a  length 
of  time  in  water;  this  we  have  never  seen  satisfactorily  ex- 
plained, though  it  is  a  very  simple  question:  the  only  method 
we  have  seen  adverted  to,  is  to  frequently  change  the  water  ; 
this  of  itself  is  scarcely  of  any  essential  benefit :  the  only 
method  is  to  cut  off  half  an  inch  or  an  inch  of  the  stem  that 
has  been  in  the  water,  according  to  the  length  of  it ;  this  will 
again  open  the  pores  that  have  become  closed  with  glutinous 
matter,  that  has  exuded  from  the  stem  when  first  cut,  and  the 
pores  being  stopt,  very  often  before  the  stem  is  placed  in  the 
water,  frequently  occasions  rapid  withering:  by  cutting  the 
bottom  of  the  stem,  the  moisture  immediately  begins  to  flow 
upwards,  and  the  branch  soon  recovers  its  vigor :  the  stems 
of  flowers  are  also  frequently  kept  in  water  until  the  bottom 
begins  to  rot  and  decay ;  those,  if  cut  above  that,  will  also 
recover  again,  and  when  placed  in  fresh  water  will  frequently 
continue  fresh  for  some  time  afterwards.  Flowers  bought  in 
shops  and  markets,  are  often  dried  at  the  bottom,  before  re- 
stored again  to  the  water;  the  bottoms  of  the  stems  of  these 
should  therefore  be  always  cut  before  immersed  in  water 
again.  Specimens  of  plants  coming  from  a  long  distance  are 
frequently  much  withered  when  they  arrive;  they  should 
therefore  be  enclosed  at  the  bottom  with  wet  moss,  tied  round 
them  before  they  are  packed  in  a  box  or  basket;  we  have 
frequently  had  them  arrive  much  withered,  and  find  the  best 
way  of  recovering  them  to  cut  the  bottom  of  the  stem  or 
brancli,  and  place  their  ends  in  about  an  inch  of  water  in  the 
bottom  of  a  large  bread  pan,  or  some  such  vessel,  and  sprinkle 
a  little  water  on  their  leaves,  and  they  will  in  general  be  all 
fresh  in  the  morning :  the  vessel  must  be  covered  close  with 
a  wooden,  or  other  cover,  that  fits  close,  and  excludes  the 
air." 


CUT   FLOWERS,    PLANTS,   AND    BULBS.  187 

ART.  2. — Plants  in  Rooms. 

In  order  to  be  as  explicit  as  possible  on  the  management 
of  plants  in  rooms,  I  refer  the  reader  to  the  first  part  of  this 
book,  and  request  him  to  peruse  carefully  the  articles  on  the 
food  of  plants,  and  the  necessary  stimulants,  as  heat,  light, 
air,  &c.,  with  the  remarks  on  the  bud,  the  root,  and  the  leaf: 
which  will  give  some  useful  hints  on  the  tendency  of  plants 
to  the  presence  of  such  natural  food  and  stimulants  as  contri- 
bute to  their  health  and  well  being. 

After  a  careful  reading  of  those  articles,  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  management  of  plants  in  rooms  is  not  so  difficult  a  task  as 
is  generally  supposed,  and  that  much  of  the  assiduous  atten- 
tion paid  to  them  is  more  conducive  to  their  sickness  than  to 
their  health  and  vigor. 

In  most  cases,  plants  are  taken  into  rooms  at  an  early  part 
of  the  autumn  on  the  approach  of  the  frost,  and  are  subjected 
to  a  sudden  and  injurious  change  of  air,  temperature  and 
treatment.  From  receiving  what  nature  bestowed  upon  them, 
as  the  dew,  the  sun,  and  air,  they  at  once  become  the  objects 
of  the  tender  and  diligent  attention  of  their  fair  cultivators, 
who  foster  them  in  a  close  room,  watering  them  frequently  at 
a  time  when  they  require  to  be  hardened,  to  withstand  the 
severity  of  the  coming  winter.  Under  this  management,  the 
natural  growth  and  quality  of  the  plant  is  reversed,  by  its  be- 
ing forced  into  a  weak,  slender  habit  and  constitution,  and 
the  consequence  is,  that  having  put  forth  its  vigor  at  a  time 
unnatural  to  vegetation,  its  property  is  partly  exhausted,  and 
a  weakness  ensues,  from  which  it  cannot  possibly  recover  till 
its  whole  system  undergoes  a  renovation,  which  will  take  a 
year  at  least,  and  in  some  cases,  the  plants  never  can  be 
brought  again  to  their  proper  healthy  state. 

Management  of  the  plants. — Previous  to  the  plants  being 
brought  into  the  room,  they  should  be  divested  of  any  dead 
leaves,  repotted  and  cleaned,  as  directed  under  the  head  of 
green-house  plants,  in  the  green-house  department. 

Much  of  the  health  and  thriftiness  of  the  plants  will  depend 


188          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

on  their  being  so  situated,  that  they  can  enjoy  the  light  from 
a  window,  and  if  in  a  situation  to  receive  the  morning  and 
mid-day  sun  the  better.  The  best  manner  of  arranging  them 
is  on  a  semicircular  stage,  with  running  casters  to  it,  by 
which  it  can  be  moved  to  any  part  of  the  room  at  pleasure; 
and  as  light  will  have  no  beneficial  effect  on  plants  at  night, 
the  stage  may  be  removed  to  any  part  of  the  room  most  con- 
venient, and  corresponding  to  their  nature.  The  dimensions 
and  construction  of  the  stage  should  be  in  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  window,  and  should  be  so  made  that  the  lower 
shelf  is  on  a  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  window,  in  order 
that  the  plants  placed  on  it  may  receive  the  light.  The  plants 
should  be  placed  on  the  stage  in  such  a  manner,  that  they  can 
all  receive  the  light  from  the  window.  They  should  often  be 
turned,  as  all  plants  always  incline  to  the  light,  and  being  re- 
versed they  reverse  their  position  also,  and  hence  they  are  by 
this  method  kept  in  handsome  form,  and  every  part  of  them 
will  have  an  equal  share  of  vigor. 

Every  opportunity  should  be  taken  to  let  in  fresh  air  to  the 
room ;  this  may  be  done  through  the  window,  in  fine,  soft 
weather.  So  essential  is  fresh  air  to  plants,  that  the  least 
possible  quantity  let  in  mixes  with  the  impure  air  and  greatly 
rectifies  it,  and,  of  course,  the  more  pure  the  air,  the  more 
healthy  is  the  plant.  Indeed,  cleanliness  and  wholesome  air 
are  the  two  principal  things  to  be  attended  to  in  this  case. 

Watering  plants  is  by  many  persons  considered  as  a  very 
difficult  point  in  growing  plants  in  rooms ;  however,  a  few 
practical  hints  on  the  subject  will,  I  think,  so  simplify  it, 
that  any  person  may  water  plants  with  the  greatest  advantage. 
The  rule  is,  that  all  plants  indicate  when  water  is  necessary 
to  be  applied,  by  their  drying  the  earth  in  the  pots.  If  the 
plants  suffer  for  the  want  of  proper  moisture,  they  lose  their 
leaves,  and  become  infested  with  scaly  insects,  red  spiders, 
&c.,  (for  a  more  particular  notice  of  which,  see  the  article  on 
Insects,  page  124.)  On  the  other  hand,  when  they  are  over- 
watered,  the  earth  in  the  pots  continues  in  a  moist  state,  and, 


CUT   FLOWERS,   PLANTS,   AND   BULBS.  189    . 

from  the  effect  of  saturation,  often  sours,  which  is  very  inju- 
rious to  the  plants.  Most  kinds  of  fleshy  plants,  as  the  Cac- 
tus, Aloes,  and  the  like,  require  but  little  water  in  the  winter. 
Camellias,  and  hardy  evergreens,  require  but  little  water  in 
the  winter  months,  and  more  when  the  flowering  season 
comes  on.  Most  plants  in  a  growing  state  require  to  be  often 
watered ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  they  should  be  as  much  as 
possible  situated  so  as  to  receive  the  atmospheric  air;  and  it 
should  be  at  all  times  a  consideration,  to  allow  plants  to  grow 
as  little  as  possible  in  rooms,  or  in  a  confined  situation. 

AUT.  3.— Growing  Bulbous  rooted  Plants  for  Rooms. 
In  the  latter  part  of  November,  a  compost  of  mellow  loam 
mixed  with  a  little  sand  and  leaf  mould,  may  be  prepared  for 
potting  such  bulbs  as  Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  and  those  kinds 
required  to  be  grown  in  rooms.  The  pots  may  be  filled  with 
the  above  compost,  and  the  bulb  placed  in  the  centre,  by 
pressing  it  down  in  the  earth,  so  that  its  crown  is  level  with 
the  earth ;  the  pots  must  now  be  placed  in  a  situation  where 
they  do  not  receive  much  light,  as  bulbs  always  strike  root 
much  better  in  darkness  than  when  fully  exposed  to  the  light. 
Little  water  will  be  required  to  be  given  until  the  bulbs  begin 
to  grow,  when  the  watering  may  be  gradually  increased  as 
they  increase  in  height,  and  when  the  flowers  show  they 
may  be  copiously  watered.  When  the  plants  have  done 
flowering,  they  may  be  placed  in  the  ground  as  soon  as  the 
weather  will  admit,  to  renovate  their  strength. 

ART.  4. — Growing  Bulbs  in  Glasses. 

Hyacinths  and  Narcissus  may  be  grown  to  good  advantage 
in  glasses,  in  rooms.  The  best  time  to  commence  this  busi- 
ness is  in  November :  the  glasses  may  be  filled  with  clear 
water,  and  the  bulbs  placed  in  them ;  they  should  then  be 
placed  in  a  light,  airy  room,  where  the  temperature  of  air  is 
moderate,  in  order  to  start  them  in  a  vigorous  manner ;  as 
often  when  they  are  placed  where  they  are  started  into 


190          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

growth  too  rapidly  they  are  drawn  very  weak  and  flower 
badly.  In  the  process  of  growing  bulbs,  the  water  should  be 
changed  every  three  or  four  days,  and  the  fibrous  roots  rinsed 
in  clean  water,  as  any  putrid  substance  or  impure  matter,  that 
either  collects  about  them  or  is  in  the  water,  is  likely  to  injure 
them  in  the  process. 

If  the  weather  is  mild  when  the  flowering  is  over,  they 
may  be  managed  like  those  in  pots,  by  planting  them  in  the 
flower  beds,  to  regain  their  vigor. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Miscellaneous  Tender   Plants. 

ART.  1. — Tender  Green-house  Plants  for  Winter  Flowering  and  Planting 
in  the  Flower  Garden. 

THERE  are  several  families  of  green-house  plants  that  may 
be  yearly  renewed,  and  planted  in  the  borders  for  summer 
flowering,  that  are  not  considered  as  important  standard 
plants  grown  for  the  purpose  of  remaining  several  years,  as 
the  Camellia,  &c. 

The  method  adopted  for  this  purpose  is  either  to  strike  the 
cuttings  in  the  summer  or  fall,  and  let  them  remain  and  flower 
in  the  green-house,  and  turn  them  out  in  the  flower  border  in 
the  spring ;  or  to  strike  them  early  in  the  spring  and  plant 
them  out  so  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit. 

The  Heliotrope  is  one  of  these  plants,  and  it  should  be 
propagated  in  July,  when  it  will  strike  freely  from  the  young 
wood.  When  well  rooted,  the  cuttings  may  be  potted  off 
into  small  pots  and  placed  in  a  shady  place  and  well  attended 
until  fall,  when  they  are  to  be  shifted  into  another  size  of 
pots  and  placed  in  the  green-house  for  winter  flowering,  and 
in  the  spring  they  may  be  planted  in  the  flower  borders, 


MISCELLANEOUS   TENDER   PLANTS.  191 

where  they  will  flower  freely  during  the  summer.  These 
plants  should  never  be  stopped,  but  the  branches  be  allowed 
to  grow  their  full  length  and  form  their  flower  buds  in  the 
fall,  before  they  are  taken  into  the  green-house. 

The  Eupatorium  elegans  and  E.  ccelistinum  are  pretty 
plants  for  winter  flowering,  and  should  be  cultivated  precisely 
the  same  as  the  Heliotrope,  and  turned  out  in  the  borders  in 
the  spring;  but  they  do  not  flower  so  profusely  in  the  sum- 
mer, although  their  flowers  in  the  winter  will  pay  for  the 
trouble. 

Justica  speciosa,  are  delightful  winter  flowering  plants. 
With  these  all  the  tender  kinds  of  Salvia,  as  Salvia  splen- 
dens,  and  its  varieties  are  also  desirable  plants.  These  should 
be  propagated  in  the  fall  and  well  established  in  the  pots  for 
winter  flowering. 

The  Lantana  mittabilis,  and  all  its  varieties,  are  also 
pretty  varieties  of  summer  flowering  plants,  and  cuttings  of 
every  variety  should  be  propagated  in  the  fall  for  the  purpose 
of  planting  out  in  the  spring. 

The  Cineraria  is  also  a  pretty  family  of  flowering  tender 
plants,  that  may  be  either  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  of 
the  finer  varieties  in  the  fall,  and  potting  them  in  rich  com- 
post, or  they  may  be  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  about 
the  first  of  January,  when  they  will  make  fine  flowering 
plants  in  a  few  weeks. 

The  Fuchsia,  or  Ladies'  Ear  Drop,  is  also  deserving  more 
general  cultivation  than  it  receives.  In  many  parts  of  Europe 
it  is  now  becoming  the  belle  ideal  of  parterres,  in  the  summer, 
where  it  is  cultivated  to  great  perfection,  and  several  of  the 
new  varieties  are  highly  deserving  a  trial  in  this  country. 

The  cuttings  may  be  propagated  in  the  spring,  and  turned 
out  in  a  bed  of  good  rich  earth  about  the  middle  of  May,  to 
flower  during  the  summer. 

The  Erythrina  crista  galli,  or  the  Coral  plant,  and  its 
varieties,  is  also  a  beautiful  tribe  of  plants  for  the  flower 
garden  in  the  summer.  The  roots  are  tender,  tuberous,  and 


192 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


require  precisely  the  same  winter  treatment  as  the  Dahlia, 
and  of  course  must  be  taken  up  before  the  frost.  In  the 
spring,  the  old  roots  make  several  young  shoots  from  the 
crown,  which  may  be  propagated  and  managed  as  directed 
for  the  Dahlia;  which  see,  under  that  head. 

Running  Vines,  as  the  Maurandya  Barclayana,  and 
several  kinds  of  the  Passiflora  should  also  be  propagated 
either  in  the  fall  or  spring  by  cuttings,  and  grown  expressly 
for  growing  in  the  flower  garden  during  the  summer.  The 
manner  of  propagating  them  is  the  same  as  other  tender 
plants. 

In  order  to  render  the  above  subject  interesting  to  lovers 
of  the  flower  garden,  I  have  here  appended  a  list  of  the  best 
varieties  of  plants  adapted  to  the  purpose. 


Name.                         Color. 

Name                          Color. 

SAL  VIA. 

robusta                dark  red  and  pink. 

fulgens               fulgent  flowering. 

Stanwelliana       red  and  purple. 

involucrata          pink. 

coccinea  major    very  large  crimson. 

splendens            splendid  sage, 
patens                 blue,  large  flowering. 
CINERARIA. 
Kingii                 white,   tipped   with 
elegans               elegant.        [purple. 

Fair  Helen          light  rose  &  scarlet, 
red  cross  knight  red,  large  and  fine. 
Desdemona         flesh  and  ruby. 
Eppsii                 red  and  purple. 
Zenobia              crimson  &  carmine. 
Pride  of  Peckham. 

splendens            splendid. 
Hendersonii        large  rosy  purple. 

Paragon             crimson  and  purple. 

I3ciutloiii              lursrc  red* 

floribunda            profuse  purple. 

Audot 

coerulea               blue, 
triumphans          superb  blue. 

arborea  conspicua  blush  &  scarlet. 
ERYTHRINA. 

T'TTDfTSTA 

f  UV^JlOlrV. 

Chauvierii           crimson  and  red. 
Exoniensis          large  crims.  &  pur. 
Venus  Victrix     white  and  purple, 
elegans  superba  large  red. 
Laneii  (Lane's)  crims.,  large  &  fine. 

herbacea            herbaceous  coral  tree, 
crista  galli          cockscomb, 
caffra                  purple, 
princeps              large  scarlet. 
PASSIFLORA. 

Frostii                  rosy  crimson,  fine. 

princeps              fine  passion  flower. 

tricolor                 green,  rose  &  white. 

hybrida               hybrid. 

Enchantress        rose  and  blush. 

coerulea               blue. 

Williamsonii       crimson  and  purple. 

alata                    winged-leaved. 

Monnypennii      crimson  and  purple. 

edulis                  eatable-fruited. 

majestica             large  bright  red. 
gigantea              large,  free  and  fine. 

racemosa 
fragrans              sweet-scented. 

MISCELLANEOUS    TENDER   PLANTS. 


193 


ART.  2. — Annuals  and  Biennials. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  annuals  and  biennials  that  are 
highly  deserving  the  attention  of  the  amateur,  for  winter  and 
spring  flowering  in  the  green-house  ;  the  sweet-scented  Mig- 
nonette is  one  of  these,  and  there  are  several  varieties  of 
stocks  of  the  annual  and  biennial  kinds  which  will  be  enu- 
merated in  the  list  to  follow.  Those  of  the  tender  kinds  are 
the  best  for  the  green-house ;  and  the  seed  may  be  sown  in 
pots,  early  in  the  fall,  and  placed  in  the  front  of  the  green- 
house, where  they  will  flower,  if  properly  managed  in  the 
winter  and  the  spring.  If  a  succession  is  wanted  of  the  an- 
nuals, a  second  sowing  may  be  made  about  the  beginning  of 
February,  to  succeed  those  sown  in  the  fall.  The  biennials 
will  require  the  same  treatment  as  other  plants  in  the  house. 

ART.  3. — Descriptive  List  of  Annual  Flowers. 

[Those  marked  thus  *  are  climbing  plants ;  those  marked  thus  §  are  de- 
licate annuals,  and  should  be  sown  in  hot-beds  hi  March,  and  transplanted 
into  the  open  ground  the  end  of  May,  or  beginning  of  June.] 


English  Name. 

Botanical  Name. 

Height. 

Color. 

Mexican  Ageratum 

Ageratum  mexicanum 

1£  ft. 

Blue. 

Sweet  Alyssum 

Alyssum  maritinum 

1 

White, 

Aster  White 

Aster  hortensis  fl.  alba 

1A 

White. 

«     Red 

var.  fl.  rubro 

JA 

Red. 

«     Lilac 

var.  fl.  carnea 

JA 

Lilac, 

"     Red  striped 

var.  fl.  obscura 

H 

Striped. 

"     Purple  striped 

var.  fl.  striata 

H 

Striped. 

«     Quilled  red 

superba  rubro 

i* 

Red. 

§Blue  Amethyst 

Browaliia  elata 

i 

Blue. 

§  White 

alba 

i 

White. 

Venus'  Looking  Glass 

Campanula  speculum 

i 

Purple. 

Great  American  Centaurea 

Centaurea  atnericana 

2 

Pink. 

Yellow  Chrysanthemum 

Chysanthemum  fl.  lutea 

2 

Yellow. 

White 

coronaria 

2 

White. 

Beautiful  Clarkea 

Clarkea  pulchella 

2 

Purple. 

Dwarf  Convolvulus 

Convolvulus  minor 

1 

Tricolor. 

Blue  Commelina 

Commelina  coelestis 

2 

Blue. 

Elegant  Coreopsis  . 

Coreopsis  tinctoria 

3 

Yellow. 

Drummond 

Drummondi 

Yellow. 

Elegant  Escholtzia 

Escholtzia  californica 

1 

Yellow. 

Variegated  Euphorbia 
Branching  Larkspur 

Euphorbia  variegata 
Delphinium  consolida 

3 

2 

White. 
Various. 

Dwarf  rocket 

ajacis 

1 

Various. 

Azure  Blue  Gilia 

Gilia  capitata 

2 

Blue. 

17 

R 

- 


194 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


English  Name. 

Double  Balsams,  mixed 

Variegated 

Pure  white 

Crimson 

*  Scarlet  Morning  Glory 

*  Cypress  Vine 

*  White  Sweet  Peas 
•Scarlet 
•Striped 

White  Lupins 

Portulaca 

Petunia 

Rose 

Scarlet  Malope 

§Ice  Plant 

^Sensitive  Plant 

Trailing  Nolana 

Hybrid  Evening  Primrose 

White 

Lindley's 

White  Officinal  Poppy 

•Scarlet  Flowering  Bean 

Sweet  Scented  Mignonette 

Schizanthus 

Double  purple  Jacobea 

Double  white 

§  White  Egg  Plant 

Vanilla  scented  Stevia 

*§  Winged  Thunbergia 

•Great  Nasturtium 

Golden  Eternal  Flower 


Botanical  Name. 

Height. 

Color. 

Impatiens  balsamina 

2ft. 

Various. 

variegata 

2 

Striped. 

alba 

2 

White. 

rubro 

2 

Red. 

Ipomea  coccinea 

10 

Scarlet 

quamoclit 

6 

D.  Red. 

Lathurus  alba 

2 

White. 

fl.  rosea 

2 

Scarlet. 

fl.  striata 

2 

Striped. 

Lupin  us  albus 

3 

White. 

Thellusonii 

Fine  scar. 

nictagyna  flora 

Purple. 

varius 

2 

Rose. 

Malope  trifida 

2 

Scarlet. 

Mesembryanthemum 

White. 

Mimosa  pudica 

Pink. 

Nolana  prostrata 

Blue. 

CEnothera  hybrida 

Pink. 

tetraptera 

1 

White. 

lindleyii 

1 

P.  White. 

Papaver  somniferum 

4 

White. 

Phaseolus  multiflorus 

12 

Scarlet. 

Reseda  odorata 

1 

Cream. 

Schinzathus  pinnatus 

2 

Various. 

Senecio  elegans 

2 

Purple. 

fl.  alba 

2 

White. 

Solanum  melongena 

2 

White. 

Stevia  serrata 

1 

White. 

Thunbergia  alata 

4 

Y.  purple. 

Tropaeolum  majus 

4 

Orange. 

Xeranthemum  lucidum 

3 

Var. 

Descriptive  List  of  Biennial  Flowers. 

[Those  marked  thus  §  are  delicate,  and  require  to  be  housed  in  the 
winter.] 


English  Name.  Botanical  Name. 

Rose  Champion  Agrostemma  coronaria 

Dble.  light  blue  Columbine  Aquilegia  vulgaris 


Dark  purple 

§Wall  Flower 

Chinese  Imperial 

Sweet  William 

§  French  Honeysuckle 

Honesty,  or  Satin  Flower 

White  Mallows 

§  Persian  Stock  Gilliflower  Mathiola  odoratissima 

§  Russian  var. 

§  White  wall  leafed  alba 

^Prussian  purp. 


fl.  purpurea 

Cheiranthus  cheiri 

chinensis 

barbatus 

Hedysarum  coronarium 

Lunar ia  biennis 

Malva  fl.  alba 


Height. 
2ft. 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
4 
4 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 


Color. 

Red. 

L.  blue. 

D.  purple. 

Var. 

Red. 

Var. 

Scarlet 

Purple. 

White. 

Var. 

Var. 

White. 

Purple. 


PROPAGATION    OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS. 


195 


English  Name. 

§  Twickenham 

§Scarlet 

§  Queen 

Purple  Topped  Clary 


Botanical  Name, 
incana  purp. 
var.  coccinea 
var.  alba 
Salvia  sclarea 


Height. 
2ft. 
2 
2 
4 


Color. 
Purple. 
Scarlet. 
\Vhite. 
L.  blue. 


CHAPTER  X. 

On  t  lie  Propagation  of  Green-house  Plants. 

ART.  1. — On  Grafting. 

GRAFTING  is  performed  in  various  ways,  although  the 
principle  is  the  same  in  each,  which  is  to  unite  the  inner 
rind,  or  bark,  of  the  scion,  or  graft,  with  that  of  the  stock,  in 
such  a  manner,  that  the  graft  becomes  a  part  of  the  stock,  by 
which  it  is  fed  and  nourished,  in  precisely  the  same  manner 
as  the  bud,  before  spoken  of. 

Whip  grafting. — The  most  common  mode  practised  on 
fruit  trees  is  exemplified  in  the  preceding  cuts,  which  is  per- 
formed early  in  the  spring,  before  vegetation  takes  place,  or 
the  sap  is  in  motion.  The  grafts,  1  and  2,  are  taken  from 
the  tree  of  the  last  year's  shoots,  generally  before  the  time  of 
grafting,  about  the  latter  end  of  February,  and  are  kept  in 
earth  in  the  cellar,  or  laid  in,  covered  with  earth,  by  the  side 
of  a  fence,  or  other  sheltered  place,  to  keep  them  fresh,  and 
from  shrivelling,  at  time  of  grafting,  which  is  just  before  the 
sap  rises.  They  are  cut  into  three  eyes,  or  buds,  and  pre- 
pared, as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  by  cutting  half  the  side  of  the 
graft  off,  in  a  slanting  manner ;  the  stock  is  then  prepared,  by 
taking  off  the  head  at  a  smooth  place,  and  cutting  a  piece  of 
the  bark  and  wood,  in  a  slanting  manner,  upwards,  as  repre- 
sented in  Fig.  3,  so  that  the  graft  will  exactly^/;  and  that 
the  inner  bark  of  the  graft  and  stock  meet  in  such  a  manner 
that  a  union  may  take  place  when  the  sap  rises,  by  the  granu- 


196 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


Fig  I. 


Fig.  2. 


Fig.  3. 


Fig.  4. 


lating  of  the  sap  of  the  stock  with  that  of  the  graft.  The 
graft  is  bound  to  its  proper  place,  as  seen  in  Fig.  4,  with  bass 
matting,  when  it  is  covered  with  clay,  or  composition,  to  keep 
out  wet,  sun,  and  air,  from  having  any  action  on  it  until  pro- 
perly united,  when  the  compost  may  be  taken  off,  and  the 
bandage  loosened,  to  allow  the  graft  to  swell.  When  this  is 
omitted,  grafts  are  often  much  injured  by  the  bandage  cutting 
through  the  bark,  and  they  are  often  blown  down  in  this  con- 
dition by  the  wind. 

Cleft  grafting  is  performed  by  cutting  off  the  top  of  the 
stock  and  splitting  it  down  the  centre,  so  as  to  admit  the 
graft,  which  is  cut  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and  inserted  in  the 
same  manner  as  represented  by  Fig.  7.  When  inserted,  it 
must  be  bandaged,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  recom- 
mended for  the  whip  graft. 


PROPAGATION   OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS.  197 

Grafting  tuberous  roots  is  exemplified  by  the  following 
cuts,  and  is  practised  on  the  Paeony,  of  which  Fig.  7,  is  a 
specimen.  It  is  performed  by  simply  taking  a  graft  from  the 
tree  variety,  cutting  it  into  the  form  of  a  wedge,  Fig.  5,  when 
a  tuber  from  the  herbaceous  kind,  Fig.  6  is  prepared,  by  cut- 
ting off  the  top,  and  preparing  it  for  inserting  the  graft,  as 
seen  in  Fig.  7.  The  graft,  when  inserted,  may  be  bandaged 
and  managed  as  before  stated ;  and  the  roots  may  be  planted 
in  a  pot,  or  in  the  ground,  in  order  to  cause  them  to  grow^ 
when  the  graft  will  also  make  some  progress  in  growth ;  and 
when  united,  must  be  unbandaged  and  treated  the  same  as 
before  directed. 


Fig.  5.  Fig.  7.  Fig.  6. 

The  Dahlia,  and  many  tuberous  rooted  herbaceous  plants, 
may  be  propagated  in  this  manner;  and,  indeed,  the  grafting 


198         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

the  roots  of  fruit  trees  and  shrubs 
is  now  becoming  very  general,  and 
will  in  a  few  years  form  a  principal 
item  in  the  science  of  horticulture. 
The  work  is  generally  performed 
in  this  way  in  winter,  and  the  roots 
are  grafted  by  the  whip  graft,  and 
planted  out  in  the  spring,  in  the 
same  manner  as  other  nursery  stock. 
Grafting  by  the  single  eye  is 
Fig.  8.  exemplified  in  Fig.  8,  and  is  per- 

formed on  Camellias,  and  green-house  evergreens.  It  is  done 
when  the  sap  is  beginning  to  rise,  which  is  generally  in  Feb- 
ruary, and  is  performed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  cleft  graft, 
before  spoken  of,  with  the  difference,  that  the  plants  should 
be  kept  moist,  and  in  a  growing  state,  to  assist  a  speedy 
union ;  they  should  also  be  excluded  from  the  sun,  which 
dries  the  grafts  and  deters  their  uniting  with 
the  stock. 

Grafting  by  approach,  or  inarching, 
may  be  represented  by  Fig.  9 ;  which  is 
performed  on  evergreen  plants,  but  more 
especially  the  Camellia  Japonica,  which 
the  present  cut  represents  as  being  grafted 
by  a  side  graft,  with  the  end  in  a  bottle  of 
water,  to  keep  the  sap  in  action  in  the  graft 
until  it  can  unite.  The  difference  of  this 
and  the  inarch  is,  that  both  the  graft  and 
stock  are  kept  on  the  stock  until  united. 
The  manner  of  doing  it  is  to  take  two  plants, 
the  one  for  the  stock,  and  that  to  be  inarched 
from ;  put  them  together  in  a  place  in  the 
green-house  where  they  are  to  remain  until 
they  are  united ;  proceed  to  place  them  so 
that  they  can  be  made  to  come  into  con- 
Fig.  9.  tact,  as  seen  in  the  opposite  cut,  supposing 


PROPAGATION    OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS.  199 

the  graft  to  be  the  top  of  the  inarch;  having  placed  them 
together,  cut  off  a  thin  slice  of  the  stock  upward,  and  an- 
other from  the  graft  where  it  is  intended  to  be  united,  in 
such  a  manner  that  when  put  together  they  make  a  complete 
fit,  by  the  rind  of  the  graft  and  stock  coming  together  on 
each  side.  They  are  then  to  be  carefully  bound  together, 
covered,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  before  named ; 
and  when  united  the  inarch  or  graft  may  be  cut  from  the 
mother  plant,  and  the  top  from  the  stock,  and  placed  in  a 
shady  situation. 

ART.  2. — Propagating  Green-house  Plants  by  Cuttings. 
There  are   various   methods  of  propagating  green-house 
plants  by  cuttings,  although  they  all  may  be  reduced  to  one 
principle,  viz.  the  taking  the  young  shoot  of  the  plant  at  a 

joint,  cutting  it  level  just  below 
an  eye  or  bud,  cutting  off  one  or 
two  of  the  under  leaves,  and  pre- 
paring it  in  such  a  manner  as 
described  in  Pig.  10,  in  order 
that  it  forms  a  callus  over  the 
wound,  or  cut  part,  from  which, 
when  properly  covered,  pro- 
trudes small  fibrous  roots,  which 
finally  make  a  young  plant,  and 
is  to  be  potted  and  treated  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  parent. 

Cuttings  may  be  divided  into  t\vo  classes — soft  wooded 
and  hard  wooded ;  the  former  are  exemplified  in  the  Gera- 
nium, Rose,  Verbena,  &c.;  the  latter  in  the  Camellia,  Laures- 
tina,  and  most  evergreens.  The  time  of  taking  cuttings  from 
the  plant  is  generally  when  the  young  shoots,  which  are  the 
ones  to  be  selected,  are  well  ripened,  which  often  happens 
soon  after  the  plant  has  done  flowering;  but  almost  any  sea- 
son when  sufficient  heat  can  be  applied  will  answer.  The  me- 
thod of  performing  the  business  is  to  take  off  the  young  wood 


200 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


two  or  three  inches  long,  as  re- 
presented in  Fig.  10,  being  care- 
ful to  cut  it  at  a  joint,  from  which 
a  callus  is  formed,  and  the  roots 
will  emanate,  as  described  in 
Fig.  11.  The  cuttings  being 
thus  prepared,  proceed  to  pot 
them  in  moderate  sized  pots, 
well  drained  with  broken  pots, 
broken  bricks,  or  any  coarse 
substance  that  will  drain  off 
the  water,  which,  if  allowed  to 
remain  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot 
Fig.  11.  and  saturate  the  compost,  is 

often  the  cause  of  cuttings  rotting  off  at  the  wound  where  the 
roots  should  be  made  ;  having  properly  placed  the  drainage, 
fill  the  pots  with  compost,  of  good  mellow  loam,  with  a  quan- 
tity of  good  sharp  sand,  in  order  to  keep  it  free  and  open ; 
shake  the  compost  gently  into  the  pot,  and  insert  from  six  to 
ten  cuttings  in  each  pot  about  two  inches  in  the  compost ; 
this  done,  give  them  a  moderate  watering,  and  place  them  in 
the  front  of  the  green-house,  frame,  or  any  situation  where 
they  can  be  shaded  from  the  mid-day  sun.  In  this  situation, 
they  will  require  good  attention,  by  keeping  them  moderately 
watered,  clearing  away  any  dead  leaves,  or  filth  that  may  col- 
lect about  them.  By  this  treatment,  most  cuttings  may  be 
rooted  in  a  month,  or  six  weeks,  when  they  may  be  potted 
off,  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for  "  Potting  Plants." 
Hard  wooded  cuttings,  as  the  Camellia,  Laurestina,  Pittospo- 
rum,  and  evergreens  in  general,  belonging  to  the  green-house, 
are  taken  from  the  plants  when  the  young  wood  is  well  ripen- 
ed, which  is  about  the  latter  end  of  August  or  beginning  of 
September.  They  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  re- 
commended for  soft  wooded  plants,  and  should  be  covered 
with  bell  glasses,  which  should  be  taken  off  every  day  and 
wiped  dry,  in  order  that  they  may  not  damp  off,  which  will 


PROPAGATION    OF    GREKN-HOUSE    PLANTS.  201 

be  the  case  if  impure  moisture  is  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
inside  of  the  glass.  The  cuttings  may  remain  in  this  state 
until  the  spring,  or  so  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted,  when 
they  may  be  potted  off,  in  the  proper  compost,  recommended 
for  the  parent  plant. 

Erica,  Diosma,  and  Epacris,  with  their  natural  families, 
may  be  propagated,  by  taking  off  the  young  shoots  when  well 
ripened,  and  preparing  a  compost  of  peat,  as  recommended 
for  them  under  the  proper  heads.  The  pots  may  be  filled 
with  crocking  at  the  bottom ;  then  fill  it  up  to  within  two 
inches  with  sharp  white  sand,  into  which  insert  the  cuttings, 
which  should  be  covered  with  bell  glasses,  and  treated  in  the 
same  manner  as  other  cuttings. 

Striking  cuttings  in  water. — There  are  many  kinds  of 
soft-wooded  green-house  plants  that  are  readily  propagated  in 
water,  such  as  the  Oleanders,  Cape  Jasmine,  &c.  This  is 
generally  done  when  the  wood  of  the  plants  to  be  increased 
is  tolerably  well  ripened ;  when  the  cuttings  are  to  be  taken 
from  the  plants  and  prepared  in  the  usual  way ;  they  are  then 
placed  in  glass  phials,  hyacinth  glasses,  or  the  like,  filled  with 
water,  and  kept  in  a  temperature  of  60°,  until  they  make 
roots  from  the  end  of  the  cutting;  they  may  then  be  potted 
as  any  other  cutting,  and  managed  in  the  same  way.  In  this 
method,  pure  water  is  a  principal  item,  and  the  water  must 
be  often  changed,  as  for  bulbs,  &c. 


GLOSSAKY. 


AcauUs,  having  no  stem.     Gentiana  acaulis,  Cnicus  acaulis. 

Acuminatus,  pointed  sharp.     Erica  acuminata. 

Acutus,  sharp,  pointed,  acuminate.     Rumex  acutus. 

Alatus,  winged ;  having  membraneous  appendages.     Thunbergia  alata. 

Alburnum,  the  white  wood  near  the  bark  of  trees. 

Albus,  white.     Populus  alba,  Azalea  alba. 

Amabilig,  amiable ;  pleasing.     Crinum  amabile. 

Amphibium,  amphibious;  growing  either  in  or  out  of  the  water. 

Angustus,  narrow,  straight,  slender.     Kalmia  angustifolium. 

Apex,  the  summit;  generally  applied  to  anything  terminating  in  a 
point. 

Apiculatum,  (apis,  a  bee,)  resembling  a  bee;  as  the  flowers  of  Del- 
phinum  elatum,  or  Bee  Larkspur. 

Aquaticus,  (aqua,  water,)  growing  in  water.     Water  Lily,  &c. 

Arboreus,  shrubby  ;  woody.     Daturea  arborea,  Erica  arborea. 

Ardens,  bright ;  glowing ;  burnished.     Erica  ardens. 

Argenteus,  silvery ;  white  and  shining  like  silver.     Protea  argentea. 

Armatus,  armed  with  spines,  aculei,  &c.     Acacia  armata. 

Articulatus,  jointed.     Cacalia  articulata. 

Asterias,  (a  star,)  stellate.     Stapelia  asterias. 

Atropurpureus,  compound  of  black  and  purple.  Camellia  airopur- 
purea. 

Augustus,  imperial;  grand;  magnificent.     Pelargonium  augustum. 

Australis,  southern;  coming  from  the  south.     Erica  australis. 

Azurea,  (azure,  sky  blue,)  sky  blue  colored.     Campanula  azurea. 

Barba,  a  beard ;  a  species  of  rigid  pubescence.     Chironia  barbata. 
Bicolor,  (com.  bis  and  color,}  two  colored.     Erica  bicolor. 
Biennis,  of  two  year's  duration.     Canterbury  Bell. 
Biflorus,  (com.  bis  and  flos,}  two  flowered.     Narcissus  biflorus,  Erica 
biflora. 

Borealis,  northern.     Linnea  borealis. 

Bractea,  an  ornamental  leaf,  exemplified  in  the  Lime  or  Basswood. 

Coeruleus,  sky  colored.     Trachelium  cceruleum. 

Campanulatus,  (campana,  a  bell,)  bell  shaped.     Ipomcea  carnpanulata. 

Capitatus,  growing  in  a  head;  a  species  of  inflorescence.  Diosma 
capitata. 

Cardinalis,  principal ;  chief;  also  scarlet,  from  the  color  of  a  cardinal's 
robe.  Lobelia  cardmalis. 

Carneus,  (carnis,  flesh,)  flesh  colored.     Veronica  carnea. 

Carnosus,  (carnis,  flesh,)  fleshy  ;  plump ;  thick ;  pulpy.  Hoya  car~ 
nosa. 

202 


GLOSSARY.  203 

Ciliatus,  (dUum,  the  eye-lid,)  edged  with  hairs  like  an  eye-lid.  Erica 
ciliaris,  Diosma  ciliata. 

Coccineus,  scarlet ;  a  deep  scarlet.     Salvia  coccinea. 

Color,  hue ;  a  sensible  quality  distinguishable  by  the  eye. 

Colorans,  (color,")  a  term  used  to  express  mutability  and  diversity  of 
color.  Erica  colorans. 

Coma,  a  head  or  tuft  of  hah- ;  a  terminal  bractea,  forming  a  tuft  as  in 
Eucomis  punctata,  Lavendula  spicata. 

Communis,  common ;  general.     Pyrus  communis. 

Compactus,  close ;  compact ;  solid. 

Concolor,  one  colored.     Erica  concolor,  Lilium  concolor. 

Conspicuus,  clear,  apparent ;  excellent ;  very  grand.     Erica  conspicua. 

Corculum,  (dun.  of  cor,  the  heart,)  a  little  heart ;  the  embryo  of  the 
future  plant,  contained  in  the  seed. 

Cordatus,  (cor,  the  heart,)  heart-shaped.     Diosma  cordata. 

Cornutus,  horned.     Erica  cornuta. 

Corolla,  a  little  crown ;  chaplet,  or  garland ;  the  painted  leaves  of  a 
Jiower. 

Cortex,  the  outer  rind  or  covering  of  trees  and  plants, 

Coronatus,  (corona,  a  crown,)  resembling  a  crown.    Lychnis  coronata. 

Corymbus.  a  cluster  of  ivy  berries. 

Crispus,  crisped  ;  curled ;  crumped.     Ixia  crispa. 

Cruentus,  bloody ;  red  like  blood.     Erica  cruenta. 

Cupreus,  (cuprum,  copper,)  copper  colored.     Iris  cuprea. 

Cyaneus,  of  a  bright  blue  color.     Arista  cyanea. 

Cylindricus,  (cylindrus,  a  cylinder  or  roller,)  cylindric.  Cactus  cylin- 
dricus. 

Deciduous,  subject  to  fall.  A  tree  is  deciduous  when  the  leaves  fall  off 
in  autumn. 

Decorus,  handsome ;  graceful.     Protea  decora.  Erica  decora. 

Decussalus,  (decusso,  to  divide  crosswise.)  A  plant  is  decussate  when 
its  leaves  point  in  four  directions  only,  or  crosswise.  Phlox  decussata. 

Defoliation,  (de,  from,  and  folium,  a  leaf,)  the  shedding  of  leaves. 

Dentatus,  toothed ;  having  notches  like  teeth.  Mostly  applied  to  the 
margins  of  leaves.  Lavendula  dentata. 

Didymus,  (twins,)  two  united.    Monarda  didyma. 

Dipetalus,  two  petalled.     Pelargoninum  dipetalum. 

Discolor,  (two  and  color,')  two  colored.     Tradescantia  discolor. 

Divaricatus,  growing  in  a  disorderly  manner ;  inclining.  Phlox  divari* 
cata. 

Dulcis,  sweet ;  nectariferous.     Inga  dulcis^  Solanum  dulcimera. 

Echinatus,  covered  with  prickles.     Pelargonium  echinatum.    ' 
Edulis,  eatable ;  good  for  food.     Passiflora  edulis. 
Elegans,  elegant ;  handsome ;  neat ;  fine.     Eupatorium  elegana. 
Ensiformis,  sword-shaped.     Mimosa  ensifolia. 

Equestris,  (equus,  a  horse,)  having  the  fancied  resemblance  of  a  horse's 
head.  Amaryllis  equestris. 

Erectus,  erect ;  upright ;  aspiring.     Clematis  erecta. 

Erubescens,  blush  colored.     Erica  erubescens. 

Eximius,  choice ;  excellent;  noble.     Gnaphalivm  eximium. 


204         THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 

Falcatus,  (fake,  a  hook  or  sickle,)  hooked ;  bent  like  a  sickle.  Aspa- 
ragus falcatus. 

Ferrugineus,  iron-colored ;  rusty.  Lasiopetalum  ferrugineum  ,•  Rhodo- 
dendron ferrugineum. 

Filamentosus,  (filum,  a  thread,)  thread-shaped ;  producing  filaments. 
Yucca  Jilamentosa. 

Fimbriatus,  fringed ;  flounced.     Camellia  fimbriata. 

Flagellifonnis,  (flagellum,  a  whip.)     Cactus  fiagelliformis. 

Floridibus,  florid ;  gay;  fresh.     Gardenia florida. 

Foetid  us,  of  a  rank  smell.     Pothos  foetidus  ;   Cerissa  foetida. 

Folium,  a  leaf  of  a  plant. 

Formosus,  beautiful ;  handsome;  ornamental.     Potentilla  formosa. 

Fragrans,  having  a  smell,  either  agreeable  or  disagreeable ;  but  generally 
applied  to  the  former.  Olea  fragrans. 

Fruticosus,  (frutex,  a  shrub,)  shrubby.     Althea  frutex. 

Fulgens,  shining;  glittering;  resplendent.  Lobelia  fulgens f  Salvia 
fulgens. 

Genera,  plural  of  genus. 

Genus,  a  kindred ;  a  race ;  a  family. 

Gibbosus,  ( Gibbus,  bunched  out,  gouty,)  abounding  with  excrescences, 
particularly  at  the  joints.  Pelargonium  gibbosum. 

Giganticus,  giant-like ;  huge.     Colotropris  gigantea. 

Glandulosus,  furnished  with  glands.     Hypericum  glandulosum. 

Glomeratus,  (glomero,to  gather  into  around  heap,)  collected  together  in 
a  round  assemblage.  Gnaphalium  glomeratum ;  Mesembryanthemum 
glomeratum. 

Gloriosus,  superb;  grand.     Yucca  gloriosa. 

Gracilis,  slender ;  weak ;  lank.    Jasminum  gradle  ;  Fuchsia  gracilis. 

Grand  is,  great;  lofty;  sublime.     Tectona  grandis ;  Banksia  grandis. 

Grandiflorus,  (grandis,  great,  and  fas.}     Cactus  grandiflorus. 

Granulatus,  (granum,  a  grain  of  corn.)  Resembling  a  grain  of  corn 
in  any  part.  Saxifraga  granulata. 

Gratus,  grateful ;  agreeable.     Lonicera  grata. 

Hepaticus,  (hepar,  the  liver,)  liver-colored ;  lobed  like  the  liver.  Ane- 
mone hepalica. 

Hibernacula,  winter  quarters ;  a  part  of  the  plant  which  protects  the 
embryo  herb ;  the  covering  of  a  bud. 

Hirsutus,  rough ;  hairy ;  shaggy.  Epilobium  hirsutum  ;   Viola  hirsuta. 

Hispidus,  rough ;  bristly ;  rugged.     Robinia  hispida. 

Hortensis,  (hortus,  a  garden,)  pertaining  to  or  growing  in  gardens. 
Hydrangea  hortensis. 

Hybridus,  (a  mongrel,)  bastard ;  partaking  of  the  nature  of  two  species. 
Passijlora  hybrida. 

Ignescens,  (ignis,  fire,)  fiery ;  ardent.  Erica  ignescens,-  Pelargonium 
ignescens. 

Imbricatus,  tile-like ;  laid  over  one  another.  Aloe  imbricata ;  Diosma 
imbricata. 

Immersus,  immersed;  growing  under  water. 

Incanus,  hoary ;  mouldy ;  colored.     Cistus  incanus. 

Incarnatus,  (in  and  caro,  flesh,)  flesh  colored.    Erodium  incamatum. 


GLOSSARY.  205 

Indigena  Planta,  a  native ;  home  bred.  American  laurel  and  Honey- 
suckles. 

Infundibuliformis,  (infundibulum,  a  funnel,)  funnel  shaped.  Erica 
infundibulifttrmis. 

Inodorus,  having  no  smell.     Allium  inodorum;  Syringa  inodora. 

Integra,  entire ;  whole.     Clematis  integrifolia. 

Involucrum,  (involvo,  to  envelope,)  wrap  or  fold  in. 

Laccatus,  (lac,  milk,)  milky ;  also,  improperly,  lake  colored.  Gladiolus 
laccutus. 

LseMgatus,  (l&vis,  smooth.)  Prinos  l&vigatus  /  Calicanthuslsevigatus. 

Lanatus,  woolly ;  covered  with  a  downy  pubescens  resembling  wool. 
Stachys  lanata,-  Geranium  lanata. 

Lanceolatus,  (lanceo,  a  spear  or  lance,)  lance-shaped.     Acacia  lanceolata. 

Latifolius,  broad-leaved.     Kalmia  latifolia. 

Liber,  the  inner  bark  of  trees  and  plants. 

Liliacea,  plants  resembling  the  lily. 

Linguus,  (lingua,  a  tongue)  tongue-shaped.     Aloe  lingua. 

Lobatus,  (the  flap  of  the  ear,)  lobate.     Pelargonium  lobatum. 

Lophantus,  a  crest  or  mane.     Acacia  lophanta. 

Maculatus,  spotted ;  speckled.     Aram  maculatum;  Phlox  maculatum* 

Major,  the  bigger ;  greater.     Tropxolum  majus. 

Mamnrillaris,  (mammilla,  a  little  breast.)     Cactus  mammillaris. 

Marithnus,  growing  near  the  sea.     Crambe  maritima. 

Maximus,  greatest ;  the  superlative  degree  of  dimension.  Convolvulus 
major. 

Meieagris,  a  Guinea  fowl ;  speckled.     Fritillaria  meleagris. 

Micans,  glittering ;  shining.    Lavalera  micans  /  Pelargonium  micans. 

Microphyllus,  small-leaved.  Edwardsia  microphylla,-  Fuchsia  mycro- 
phylla;  Rosa  mycrophylla. 

Minor,  (com.  ofparvus,  little,)  less ;  smaller.     Convolvulus  minor. 

Monophyllus,  one-leaved.     Kennedia  monophylla. 

Monstrosus,  monstrous;  out  of  ordinary  course  of  nature.  Hyacinthus 
monstrosus. 

Montanus,  (mons,  a  mountain,)  growing  on  mountains.  Veronica 
montana. 

Moschatus,  having  a  musky  smell.     Rosa  moschata. 

Multiflora,  (mullus,  many,  and  Jlos,)  many  flowered.  Rosa  muttiflora; 
Jasminum  multiflorum. 

Muscosus,  mossy ;  resembling  moss.     Rosa  muscosa  ;  Moss  Rose. 

Nanus,  dwarf,  of  humble  growth.     Philadelphus  nanus. 

Naturalis,  agreeable  to  nature. 

Nectarium,  (nectar,  honey,)  the  part  of  a  flower  or  plant  that  contains 
honey. 

Niger,  black ;  dark  colored.     Orobus  niger. 

Nobilis,  notable,  grand.     Laurus  nobilis. 

Nocturnus,  (nox,  night,)  night  flowering ;  night  smelling.  (Enethera 
nocturna ;  Cestrum  nocturnum. 

Octagonus,  eight  angled.     Cactus  odagonus. 
S 


206          THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  COMPANION. 


rrsmell,  either  good  or  bad,  but  mostly  applied  to  such  as  are  grate- 
ful.   Daphne  odorata. 

Orientalis,  eastern.     Gnaphalium  orientate  ;  Papaver  orientate. 

Pallidus,  pale  j  of  a  dusky  white  color.  Crocus  pallidus  ;  Calceolaria 
pallida. 

Palustris,  (palus,z  marsh,)  growing  in  marshes.  Caltha  palustris  ,• 
Hibiscus  palustris. 

Paniculatus,  (panicula,)  panicle  flowered.    Phlox  pani  cula. 

Parvus,  small  ;  insignificant. 

Pavonius,  (pavo,  a  peacock,)  spotted  with  gay  colors  as  a  peacock. 
Corteria  pavonia. 

Pedunculus,  (pes,  a  foot,)  the  proper  footstalk  of  a  flower. 

Pencillatus,  (pencil/urn,  a  painter's  pencil.)  painted  as  if  with  a  pencil  ; 
delicately  painted,  as  the  lines  or  spots  in  the  Pelargonium. 

Pentagonus,  five  angled.     Cactus  pentagonus. 

Pentapetalus,  five  petalled,  flowers  having  five  distinct  petals,  or  flower 
leaves. 

Persolutus,  accomplished  ;  elegant.     Erica  persoluta* 

Pictus,  (pingo,  to  paint,)  painted.     Phlox  pidum. 

Planta,  a  plant. 

Plumatus,  (pluma,  a  feather,)  feathery,  downy.    Erica  plumosa. 

Polypetalus,  many  petalled,  as  the  Rose  and  Dahlia. 

PKECOX,  early.     Calycanthus  prsecox. 

Princeps,  chief;  principal.     Passijhtra  princeps. 

Prostratus,  prostrate  ;  lying  flat.  Disandra  prostrata  ;  Banksia  pros' 
trata. 

Pulchellus,  pretty  ;  neat;  elegant.     Clarkea  pulchella. 

Pumilus,  d  warf.     Iris  p  umila. 

Purpureus,  purple  colored.     Aster  purpureus. 

Pyrainidalis,  pyramidal  ;  tapering.     Phlox  pyramidalis. 

Quadrangularis,  four  angled  ;  square.     Passijlora  quadr  angular)  s. 
Quinquefolius,  (quinque,  five,  and  folium.)  Ampetopsis  quinquefulia. 

Racemosus,  (racemus,  a  cluster  of  grapes,)  growing  in  clusters.  Sym- 
phora  racemosa. 

Radicans,  (radix,  a  root,)  rooting  ;  producing  claspers  resembling  roots. 
Bignonia  radicans. 

Ramus,  a  bough  or  branch  of  a  tree. 

Reniformis,  (renis,  the  kidneys,)  kidney-shaped.  Pelargonium  reni- 
forme. 

Repens,  creeping.     Ranunculus  repens. 

Retortus,  (turned  backwards,)  bent  back;  twisted.     Erica  retorta. 

Revolutus,  rolled  backwards.     Cycus  revoluta. 

Ringens,  grinning  ;  gaping.    Minulus  ringens. 

Rivalis,  of  or  pertaining  to  a  river.     Minulus  rivalis. 

Roseus,  rose  colored.     Ixia  rosea. 

Rotatus,  (rota,  a  wheel,)  wheel-shaped.     Pancratium  rotatum. 

Rubellus,  somewhat  red  ;  reddish.     Erica  rubella. 

Rubens,  ruddy  ;  blushing.     Crassula  rubens. 

Ruber,  red.     Valeriana  rubra* 


GLOSSARY.  207 

Rubicundus,  deep  red ;  also,  ruddy.     Kennedia  rubicunda. 
Rugosus,  rough ;  wrinkled ;  furrowed.     Calceolaria  rugosa. 

Sanguineus,  blood-colored.     Rosa  sanguineum. 

Scariosus,  having  longitudinal  incisions  or  channels.     Liatris  scariosus. 
Sempervirens,  evergreen.     Lonicera  sempervirens. 
Sparsus,  scattered ;  spread  abroad.     Beaufortia  sparsa. 
Spicatus,  (spica,  a  spike,)  spike-flowered.     Liatris  spicata. 
Splendens,  glittering ;  splendid ;  beautifuL     Lobelia  splendens. 
Stamina,  the  male  organs  of  a  flower. 
Sterilis,  barren.     Fragaria  sterilis. 
Stoloniferus,  creeping.     Phlox  stoknifera. 
Striatus,  channelled ;  also,  striped.     Geranium  striatum. 
Strobilus,  the  Artichoke ;  the  cone  of  a  Fir. 

Suaveolens,  (suacis,  sweet,)  smelling  sweet ;  more  commonly  applied  to 
strong  scented.  Phlox  suaveolens. 

Sylvestris,  (sylva,  a  wood.)     Anemone  sylvestris. 

Tardiflorus,  (tardo,  to  be  long  in  coming ;  and>/?ora.)    Aster  tardiflora. 

Tenellus,  slender,  delicate.     Aster  tenella. 

Translucens,  (transluceo,  to  shine  through.)    Pelargonium  translucent. 

Tremulus,  tremblhig ;  shaking.     Populus  tremula. 

Truncatus,  (truncus,  cut  short,  maimed,)  leaves,  roots,  &c.,  are  called 
truncate  when  they  terminate  bluntly,  as  if  cut,  or  bitten  of£  Cactus 
truncatus. 

Tubiflorus,  (tubus,  a  tube,)  tube-flowered.    Erica  tubiflora. 

Umbellatus,  (umbeUa,}  umbellate.     Agapanthus  umbellatus. 

Undulatus,  (undo,  a  wave,)  waved ;  when  the  margins  of  the  leaves,  or 
petals,  are  larger  in  proportion  than  their  disks.  Pittosporum  undulatum  ; 
Amaryllis  undulata. 

Variegatus,  (modern  Latin,)  having  an  intermixture  of  colors.  Ms 
varicgalus,  Pelargonium  variegatum. 

Vernus,  pertaining  to  the  spring.     Phlox  vernus. 

Versicolor,  changing  color;  particolored.  Iris  versicolor ;  Oxalis  ver- 
sicolor. 

Verticillatus,  whorl-flowered.     Acacia  verticillata. 

Viridis,  green ;  flourishing.     Lachnelia  viridis. 

Vittatus,  (a  fillet,  or  ribbon)  ribbon-like.     Amaryllis  vittata. 

Volubilis,  twining  round  other  bodies.     Hibbertia  volubilis. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


DRAWINGS  and  Specifications  for  the  Patent  Office,  and 

for  every  description  of  Machinery. 

ALSO 

For  Landscape  Gardens,  Villas,  Suburban  Cottages,  City  Residences, 
&c.,  &c.,  and 

Designs  for  Pictorial  Works,  by 

GEO.  H.  KNIGHT, 

Pennsylvania  Hotel,  East  Front  Street, 

CINCINNATI. 
({^/•Instruction  given  in  the  above. 


LAYING  OUT  GARDENS 

AND 


BEGS  leave  to  return  his  thanks  to  those  who  have  been  pleased  to 
patronize  him,  and  solicits  a  continuance  of  their  favors. 

In  laying  out  Gardens  and  Ornamental  Plantations,  every  attention 
will  be  given  in  the  selection  of  Fruit  and  Ornamental  Trees,  Shrubs, 
Flowers,  and  Green-house  Plants,  which  will  be  furnished  at  nursery 
prices. 

A  choice  collection  of  Flower  Seeds,  selected  from  last  year's  growth, 
will  be  furnished  at  moderate  prices. 

The  Pruning  of  Grape  Vines,  Ornamental  Trees,  Shrubs,  &c.,  will  also 
be  performed. 

All  orders  left  at  Ely  &  Campbell's  Seed  Store,  No.  23,  Lower  Market- 
Street,  Cincinnati,  will  be  punctually  attended  to. 

EDWARD  SAYERS. 

February,  1846, 


SAYERS   &   HEAVER, 

NURSERYMEN   AND   FLORISTS. 

READING  ROAD  NURSERY, 

One  and  a  naif  miles  from  Cincinnati;  on  the 
Reading'  and  Lebanon  Turnpike. 

THE  Proprietors  of  this  establishment  offer  for  sale  a  large 
collection  of  FRUIT  TREES,  consisting  of  APPLES, 
PEARS,  QUINCES,  CHERRIES,  PEACHES,  APRICOTS, 
NECTARINES,  PLUMS,  GRAPE-VINES,  CURRANTS, 
GOOSEBERRIES,  RASPBERRIES,  STRAWBERRIES, 
RHUBARB  and  ASPARAGUS,  &c. 

Also,  a  general  assortment  of 

Ornamental   Trees,  Evergreens  and  Flowering 
Shrubs,  Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants,  &c. 

Their  stock  of  ROSES  is  extensive,  containing  over  Two 
Hundred  Varieties;  embracing  nearly  all  the  new  and  esteemed 
varieties  of  everblooming  kinds  of  BENGAL,  BOURBON, TEA, 
NOISETTE,  PERPETUAL  and  REMONTANTES. 

Also,  a  large  and  general  assortment  of  GREEN-HOUSE 
PLANTS,  comprising  CAMELLIAS,  AZALEAS,  CACTUS, 
FUCHSIAS,  PELARGONIUMS,  CALCEOLARIAS,  VER- 
BENAS, GERANIUMS,  &c.,  &c. 

A  fine  assortment  of  DAHLIAS,  of  more  than  One  Hundred 
Varieties;  PEONIES,  RANUNCULUS,  and  other  Tuberous 
Plants: 

Also,  a  general  collection  of  Bulbs,  consisting  of  TULIPS, 
HYACINTHS,  TUBEROSES,  NARCISSUS,  GLADIOLUS, 
TIGRIDIAS,  LILIES,  CROCUS,  &c.,  &c.,  with  a  general  col- 

too  numerous  to  detail  in  the  limits  of  an  advertisement. 

PAULOWNIA  IMPERIALIS— a  few  strong  plants  of  this 
rare  and  admired  tree  for  sale. 

TREES  carefully  packed,  for  forwarding  to  any  part  of  the  Union,  (for 
which  a  reasonable  price  will  be  charged,)  and  delivered  in  any  part  of  the 
city,  or  on  steamboat,  free  of  expense.  ORDERS,  directed  to  the  subscribers, 
sent  through  the  Post-office,  accompanied  with  the  cash  or  responsible  city 
references,  will  be  punctually  attended  to. 

ELY  &  CAMPBELL,  23  Lower  Market  St.,  City  Agents. 

The  subscribers,  thankful  for  past  patronage,  beg  to  inform  their  friends 
and  customers,  that  all  new  and  valuable  varieties  of  Fruit  Trees  and 
Flowering  Plants  will  be  added  to  their  collections,  as  they  become  intro- 
duced and  proved. 

Feb.  1846.  SAYERS  &  HEAVER. 

N.  B.  Catalogues  forwarded  gratis  to  all  post  paid  applicants. 
18  s2 


NEAR  CINCINNATI. 


THE  Proprietor  respectfully  calls  the  attention  of  the  public  to 
this  establishment;  which  now  embraces  all  the  leading  and 
BEST  FRUITS  of  the  country,  with  a  very  general  and  large 
stock  of  Evergreen  Trees  and  Plants,  Ornamental 
Shade  Trees,  Shrubs  and  Plants,  Roses,  Tines, 
Creepers,  &c. ;  Flowering  Plants,  Bulbs,  &c.  All 
the  new  and  best  Strawberries,  with  a  general  supply  of 
most  things  cultivated  in  the  best  EASTERN  NURSERIES. 

An  unremitted  personal  attention  to  the  business  for  the  last  ten  or 
twelve  years,  with  occasional  visits  to  the  best  fruit  regions  of  our  country, 
and  an  extensive  correspondence,  have  enabled  the  proprietor  to  make 
such  a  collection  of  valuable  Fruits  as  cannot  fail  to  prove  satisfactory. 

Communications  and  Orders,  left  at  the  Post-office,  will  receive  the 
prompt  attention  of  the  proprietor.  Articles  designed  for  shipment  care- 
fully packed,  and  delivered  in  the  city. 

SPRING  GARDEN,      )  A.  H.  ERNST, 

M 


February,  1846. 


Proprietor. 


S,  S,  JACKSON, 


Three  miles  below  Cincinnati,  on  the  River  Road, 

Between  the  residences  of  Major  Wm.  Oliver  and  S.  S.  L'Hommedieu, 


constnnthj  for  sale 
Fruit   and   Ornamental   Trees   and   Shrubs, 

VINES,  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS,  &c. 

(Xj3  Cut  Flowers  at  all  seasons.  «£0 


SEED  STORE 


AND 


AGRICULTURAL  WAREHOUSE, 

NO.  23,  LOWER  MARKET-STREET, 


HATE  taken  the  store  formerly  occupied  by  Mr.  S.  C.  PARKHURST,  for  the 
purpose  of  doing  a  Seed  and  General  Commission  Business,  and  beg  leave 
to  remind  his  numerous  friends  and  customers,  throughout  the  West  and 
Southwest,  that  they  will  continue  to  carry  on  the  Seed  Business,  at  the  old 
stand,  No.  23,  Lower  Market-street,  Cincinnati,  which  was  originally  es- 
tablished sixteen  years  ago. 

They  have  recently  enlarged  their  business  in  relation  to  Garden  Seeds 
and  Fruit  and  Ornamental  Trees,  and  are  now  prepared  to  furnish,  either 
at  wholesale  or  retail,  the  Seeds  of  every  variety  of  vegetables  cultivated  in 
this  section  of  the  Union,  comprising  early  and  late  varieties  of  Peas  and 
Beans,  Beets,  Cabbages,  Carrots,  Cauliflowers,  Celery,  Cucumbers,  Let- 
tuces, Melons,  Onions,  Parsnips,  Radishes,  Squashes,  Turnips,  Tomatoes, 
Sweet  Herbs,  Ornamental  Flower  Seeds,  &c.  Also,  Bird  Seed  of  all 
kinds,  comprising  Canary,  Hemp,  Millet,  Rape  and  Maw  Seeds. 

Country  Merchants  can  be  supplied  with  boxes  of  any  size, 
comprising  a  complete  assortment  of  the  best  Seeds,  warranted  fresh  and 
genuine,  and  neatly  put  up  in  small  packages  for  retail,  with  printed  direc- 
tions on  each  package,  and  labeled,  &c.,  on  the  most  liberal  terms. 

Agricultural  Implements,  as  Plows,  Scythes,  Rakes,  &c., 
of  the  most  approved  construction  for  this  market,  constantly  on  hand,  at 
manufacturers'  prices. 

Fruit  and  Ornamental  Trees.  Particular  arrangements 
have  been  made  with  both  Eastern  and  Western  Nurserymen  to  furnish 
all  kinds  of  Fruit  Trees,  as  Apples,  Pears,  Peaches,  Cherries,  Plums, 
Nectarines,  Apricots,  Quinces,  &c.,  of  the  best  kinds  now  cultivated. 
Pamphlet  catalogues,  with  directions  for  their  management,  so  as  to  obviate 
the  attacks  of  insects,  supplied  gratis. 

Have  now  growing  near  the  city,  and  will  be  prepared  to  furnish  in  the 
Autumn  of  1846,  50,000  plants  of  the  OSAGE  ORANGE,  raised  from  Seed 
procured  in  Texas,  and  are  also  receiving  a  large  lot  of  fresh  Seed. 

Cash  Paid  for  Clover,  Timothy,  and  Blue  Grass  Seed,  Flax  Seed, 
Black  Locust  Seed,  Mustard  Seed,  Beans,  Dried  Fruit,  Cheese,  and  all 
kinds  of  Western  Produce,  at  the  highest  market  price.  Catalogues  of 
Seeds,  Implements,  &c.,  supplied  Gratis,  on  application  at  the  store,  or  by 
letter,  post  paid. 

E.  &  C.  also  are  agents  for  the  ALBAXY  CULTIVATOR  and  OHIO 
CULTIVATOR,  two  of  the  most  valuable  agricultural  works  published  in 
this  country :  Price  $1  per  year,  each. 


Farm  Sc  Garden 
SEEDS. 


Farm  &  Garden 

TOOLS. 
BOOKS,  &o 


SEED  WAREHOUSE, 

No.  05,  Chestnut-Street, 

PHILADELPHIA 


Extract  from  the  "REPORT"  of  the  "VISITING 
COMMITTEE  of  the  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTI- 
CULTURAL SOCIETY;"  unanimously  adopted  and 
ordered  to  be  printed. 


NURSERIES   AND    GARDENS.  " 

*  *  *  *  "Garden  Seeds  of  the  finest  quality 
have  been  scattered  over  the  country  from  these  grounds, 
and  may  always  be  depended  upon.  The  SEED  ESTABLISH- 
MENT of  these  HORTICULTURISTS  is  one  of  the  most  extensive 
in  the  Union,  and  its  reputation  is  well  sustained  from  year 
to  year. 

"  To  obviate  the  chance  of  mixture  of  the  farina  of  the 
plants  of  the  same  family,  they  have  established  another  nur- 
sery, at  a  suitable  distance,  so  that  degeneration  cannot  take 
place,  and  which  secures  to  the  purchasers  <a  genuine  article.' 
Knowing  thus  the  age,  quality  and  process  of  culture  of  every 
plant,  the  supply  from  their  grounds  is  recommended  with 
great  confidence" 

K5-  The  SEED  GARDENSt  alone,  cover  fifty  acres,  and  the 
whole  is,  as  it  has  been  for  more  than  half  a  century,  under 
the  successive  management  of  father  and  sou,  the  most  prom- 
inent in  America. 


THE     L.ANJ3RETH 

NURSERIES, 

FEDERAL  STREET,  NEAR  THE  ARSENAL, 

PHILADELPHIA. 


THIS  widely  known  establishment,  formerly  (and  for  nearly 
half  a  century)  conducted  by  its  founders,  the  late  DAVID  and 
CUTHBERT  LANDRETH,  and  now  in  the  hands  of  the  subscribers, 
is  furnished  with  a  judiciously  selected  stock,  comprising  the 

CHOICEST  FRUITS,  MAGNIFICENT  SHADE  AND  EVERGREEN 
TREES,  FLOWERING  SHRUBS,  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS,  &c. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  similar  concern  in  the  United  States,  where  so 
select,  and  at  the  same  time,  general  an  assortment  may  be  found. 

In  deciding  on  the  Fruits  to  be  propagated,  the  subscribers  have 
been  governed  by  a  desire  to  cultivate  only  the  more  esteemed 
kinds,  and  not  by  an  absurd  ambition  to  possess  all,  without  re- 
gard to  merit;  consequently  they  have  confined  themselves  to  a 
comparatively  limited  variety — rejecting  many  still  disseminated 
to  the  eventual  disappointment  of  purchasers.  The  assortment  of 
DECORATIVE  TREES,  evergreen  and  deciduous,  is  particular- 
ly worthy  of  attention ;  and  having  been  frequently  removed  in 
the  nursery,  may  be  transplanted  with  success:  EVERGREENS 
have  usually  been  deemed  particularly  liable  to  die  on  transplant- 
ing; but  those  grown  on  our  damp  soil,  succeed  as  well  as  any  de- 
scription of  Trees. 

The  collection  of  hardy  Shrubs  and  Roses  is  numerous — the 
latter  includes  all  the  fine  ones  of  recent  introduction.  Among  the 
Green-house  Plants,  are  upwards  of  three  thousand  engrafted 
Camellias,  and  innumerable  beautiful  Plants  from  all  quarters 
of  the  globe. 

Catalogues  with  prices  annexed,  may  be  had  on  personal  or 
post-paid  application  at  the  HORTICULTURAL  WARE-HOUSE  of 
D.  LANDRETH,  *o.  65  Chestnut  Street, 

where  orders  for  the  Nursery  are  received. 

***  The  prices  of  most  articles  have  been  much  reduced,  trust- 
ing to  an  increasing  demand  for  reimbursement. 

D.  LANDRETH  &  FULTON, 


fG*  Extract  from  the  "  REPORT"  of  the  "VISITING 
COMMITTEE  of  the  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTI- 
CULTURAL SOCIETY  ;"  unanimously  adopted,  and 
ordered  to  be  printed: 

LANDRETH'S 

NURSERIES  AND  GARDENS, 


"  THESE  extensive  grounds  are  on  Federal  Street,  near  the 
Arsenal.  *  *  *  *  *  The  earliest  collection  of  Camellias 
was  made  here.  Some  of  those  now  in  the  possession  of  those 
distinguished  nursery-men,  are  ten  feet  high.  *  *  *  * 
The  selection  of  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  is  valuable  and  extensive. 


.. 

"  In  the  NURSERIES  we  saw  a  great  many  Magnolias,  of  which 
there  are  no  less  than  thirteen  distinct  species  and  three  varieties. 
One  plant  of  the  M.  grandiflora  is  twenty  feet  high  and  in  full 
bloom.  Here  are  likewise  the  M.  cordata  fifty  feet  high  ;  a  beau- 
tiful M,  eliptica  in  flower,  and  a  magnificent  specimen  eighteen 
feet  high,  of  the  M.  conspicua;  the  curious  Osage  Orange,  that 
retains  its  lucid  foliage  longer  than  any  other  deciduous  tree.  *  * 

"  The  NURSERIES  are  all  very  correctly  managed,  supplying 
every  part  of  the  Union;  a  detail  of  which  would  occupy  too 
much  of  our  space;  we  therefore  content  ourselves  with  stating 
that  the  stock  is  very  large,  and  in  every  stage  of  growth,  con- 
sisting of 

Forest   and   Ornamental   Trees,    Shrubs,    Ever- 
greens, Vines   and  Creepers, 

With  a  collection  of  Herbaceous  Plants;  FRUIT  TREES  of 
the  best  kind,  and  most  healthy  condition;  large  beds  of  Seed- 
ling Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  &c.,  as  stocks  for  budding  and  graft- 
ing ;  a  plan  very  superior  to  that  of  working  upon  suckers,  which 
carry  with  them  into  the  graft  all  the  diseases  of  the  parent 
stock."  *  *  *  * 


*#*  Since  the  date  of  the  "REPORT"  from  which  the  above  is 
extracted,  the  ENTIRE  ESTABLISHMENT  has  been  GREATLY  EN- 
LARGED. The  collection  of  Camellias  embraces  all  the  finer  kinds, 
and  consists  of  some  thousands  of  various  sizes ;  so  likewise  of 
Roses,  and  other  desirable  plants,  both  tender  and  hardy — Fruit 
Trees,  etc. 


AGRICULTURAL  &  GARDEN  SEED  WAREHOUSE, 

East  Fifth-Street,  Between  Main  and  Sycamore, 

CINCINNATI, 

THE  proprietor  of  this  establishment  respectfully  invites  the  attention  of 
his  friends,  and  the  citizens  of  the  west  generally,  to  his  extensive  stock 
of  AGRICULTURAL  LMPLEMEXTS,  and  GARDEN  TOOLS,  all  of  the  most 
approved  construction  and  material 

Agricultural  Seeds. — All  the  varieties  of  Grasses,  Clovers; 
new  and  choice  kinds  of  Wheat,  Barley,  Oats,  Corn,  &c. 

GARDEN  SEEDS . — ^  lar§e  and  valuable  assortment  of 
Vegetable  Seeds,  comprising  all  the  kinds  most  worthy  of  cultivation, 
together  with  many  new  and  choice  sorts. 

(£j*  Country  Merchants  supplied  with  boxes  of  assorted  Vegetable 
Seeds,  for  retailing,  each  kind  neatly  labeled  with  the  name,  and  direc- 
tions for  culture. 

FLO  W  E  R.  SEEDS . — ^ne  °f  tne  most  extensive  collections 
of  Flower  Seeds  in  the  United  States,  embracing  all  the  varieties  known 
to  our  Florists,  with  many  new  and  rare  kinds.  The  Flower  Seeds  will 
be  sold  in  single  packets,  at  five  to  ten  cents;  in  packages  containing 
thirty  named  varieties,  one  dollar ;  fifty  varieties,  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents. 

AGRICULTURAL  AND  GARDENING  BOOKS— A  full  assortment  of 
choice  works  upon  Agriculture,  Gardening,  and  Rural  Economy. 

MISCELLANEOUS  ARTIC  LES.— Canary,  and 
other  singing  Birds  of  approved  song,  Bird  Cages,  in  great  variety,  Bird 
Seed  of  all  kinds,  Bulbous  Flower-roots,  Bulb-glasses,  Bird-glasses  for 
water  and  seeds,  together  with  all  other  articles  usually  kept  hi  establish- 
ments of  the  kind. 

H.  H.  is  agent  for  the  sale  of  several  extensive  collections  of  Fruit 
Trees,  Shrubs,  and  Flowering  Plants,  catalogues  of  which,  together  with 
those  of  the  implements,  tools,  seeds,  &c.,  can  be  obtained  gratis  at  the 
Seed  Warehouse. 


NURSERYMEN  AND  FLORISTS, 


Keep  for  sale;  Fruit  and  Ornamental  Trees  and  Shrubs,  Vines,  Green-House 
Plants,  &c. 

Cot  Flowers  at  all  Seasons, 

All  Plants,  Trees,  &c.,  are  warranted  to  be  as  represented,  and  care- 
fully packed  so  as  to  carry  to  any  part  of  the  country.  Plants  and  Trees 
delivered  in  Cincinnati  free  of  charge. 

Orders  directed  to  J.  C.  Ferris,  Newport,  Ky.,  or  to  E.  JT. 
Hooper,  will  be  punctually  attended  to. 

HOOPER  &  FERRIS. 
February,  1846. 


f. 


JAMES    HOWARTH, 


9 

Two  miles  below  Cincinnati,  on  the  River  road, 

Offers  for  sale,  at  his  Garden,  a  general  assortment  of 

Fruit  and.  Ornamental  Trees,  and  Shrubbery, 

of  the  most  approved  varieties ;  together  with  an  extensive  collection  of 
GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS,  and  FLOWERS,  at  moderate  prices. 
(Purchases  exceeding  Three  Dollars  delivered  in  the  city  free  of  expense.) 

All  Orders  left  at  H.  HUXLKT'S  Seed  Store,  next  the  Dennison  House, 
on  Fifth  Street,  Cincinnati,  will  be  punctually  attended  to. 

QCj*  The  Delhi  Omnibuses  pass  the  Nursery  three  times  a  day,  from  the 
Dennison  House,  which  afford  a  most  delightful  ride,  presenting  a  beauti- 
ful landscape,  in  connection  with  the  river  and  the  White  Water  Canal, 
which  passes  close  by  the  garden  gate. 

The  White  Water  Canal  Packets  pass  the  garden  gate  three  times  a 
day,  during  the  summer,  affording  visitors  one  hour  and  a  half  for  the 
inspection  of  the  gardens,  and  then  returning  to  the  city  by  coach  or  boat, 

JAMES  HOWARTH. 

WALNUT  HILLS  NURSERY, 

CINCINNATI. 

C.   W.  ELLIOTT. 

NEARLY  all  the  fine  varieties  of  FRUIT  T  R  E  E  S  are  for  sale 
at  this  Nursery :— APPLES,  PEARS,  PEACHES,  PLUMS, 
QUINCES,  APRICOTS  &  NECTARINES,  RASPBERRY, 
STRAWBERRY,  &c.,  &c. 

The  severe  winter  has  killed  a  great  many  of  the  young  Cherry 
Trees,  so  that  they  can  be  furnished  only  in  small  numbers. 

— Also,  for  sale — 

DAHLIAS,  ORNAMENTAL  SHADE  TREES,  EVER- 
GREENS, ROSES  in  variety,  (hybrid  tender  and  half  tender.) 
GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Agency  in  town  is  at  Corner  of  Fourth  and  Sycamore  Streets, 
J.    31.    WADE'S,    where   Orders   will   be  received,   and 
where  is  offered  for  sale  a  choice  variety  of  fresh 
Garden  Seeds, 

Flower  Seeds, 

Sweet  Herbs,  &c. 
Catalogues  sent  on  application — if  by  mail,  post-paid. 


36903 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


